Blue smoke

[DC2]

Ok, what happened was very strange. I hope someone could give me an answer to this.
Last week when the engine was cold I stopped at the red light after a 1 mile drive. When I pulled up (normal speed, cold engine..) there was a lot of blue clear smoke coming out of the exhaust. But at the next red light, nothing happened. I checked the back of the car and it was full of little black oil spatters. So I cleaned the car and went out for some testing, I let it idle for +10 minutes, nothing happened. I went on WOT, engine braking and again on WOT etc etc. No smoke to see, let it idle again, for short time, long time, gave a little gas. No blue smoke to see. Ive been riding for +200 miles now, no blue smoke or oil spatters on the back..

Any thoughts ?

Sorry for my writing faults...

[robbspeed]

Originally Posted by DC2 Ok, what happened was very strange. I hope someone could give me an answer to this. Last week when the engine was cold I stopped at the red light after a 1 mile drive. When I pulled up (normal speed, cold engine..) there was a lot of blue clear smoke coming out of the exhaust. But at the next red light, nothing happened. I checked the back of the car and it was full of little black oil spatters. So I cleaned the car and went out for some testing, I let it idle for +10 minutes, nothing happened. I went on WOT, engine braking and again on WOT etc etc. No smoke to see, let it idle again, for short time, long time, gave a little gas. No blue smoke to see. Ive been riding for +200 miles now, no blue smoke or oil spatters on the back.. Any thoughts ? Sorry for my writing faults...

The engine was cold. So maybe some oil made it past the turbo's seal due to wider tolerances but stopped due to expansion once the engine warmed up. I've never dealt with this issue so maybe I'm totally wrong but that is the only explanation that comes to my mind. Next cold start keep a very close eye on it.

[jtday]

Sounds like condensation making its way out of the exhaust...

[robbspeed]

Originally Posted by jtday Sounds like condensation making its way out of the exhaust...

I've never seen blue condensation or condensation make little black oil spots on the back of a car. I gave the OP the benefit of the doubt that he could tell the difference between "blue smoke" and condensation.

[biggman026]

I'm more surprised your engine was cold after driving a mile. My coolant temps are fully warmed up after driving that far (no oil temp gauge).

[robbspeed]

Originally Posted by biggman026 I'm more surprised your engine was cold after driving a mile. My coolant temps are fully warmed up after driving that far (no oil temp gauge).

You're in alabama. He's in belgium.

[biggman026]

Originally Posted by robbspeed You're in alabama. He's in belgium.

Haha, very true. But even during the winter when ambient temps hover around freezing, I'm still usually warmed up after a mile. But then again, for all I know Belgium gets way below freezing at this time of year.

[robbspeed]

Originally Posted by biggman026 Haha, very true. But even during the winter when ambient temps hover around freezing, I'm still usually warmed up after a mile. But then again, for all I know Belgium gets way below freezing at this time of year.

Yeah man. I don't know i could be way off base. Just trying to help him out since no one else was chiming in.

[DC2]

I really know the difference between condensation and oil burning blue. I was thinking maybe some PCV valve who got blocked ??
Here in Belgium its now like 60 °f. Way to hot for the time of the year..
About 1000miles ago I've changed the oil from semi synthetic to 5w30 shell full synthetic. (=rotella oil). Oil level is ok, did not drop..
So strange

[robbspeed]

Originally Posted by DC2 I really know the difference between condensation and oil burning blue. I was thinking maybe some PCV valve who got blocked ?? Here in Belgium its now like 60 °f. Way to hot for the time of the year.. About 1000miles ago I've changed the oil from semi synthetic to 5w30 shell full synthetic. (=rotella oil). Oil level is ok, did not drop.. So strange

How many miles on the vehicle? Is it possible this has been happening for a while and this is just the first time you noticed it? That would make this a lot less mysterious. Knowing how the pcv system works (not saying you don't) I can't imagine it would be the source of your problem. If you have no problems with your current method suddenly changing can invite a problem. Such as your switch to a different oil. It's not likely though. If the problem doesn't come back I say try not to worry about it. Unless someone else around here has had the same problem and can offer a clue. Good luck.

On a side note. When did you install the racepipe? Have you tried the stage 2 ots map with your setup? I believe the first cat should be replaced with a high flow cat but a lot of guys have gone stage 2 with a racepipe (and the other supporting mods obviously) and had decent results. Just curious. Do what your comfortable with.

[DC2]

Originally Posted by robbspeed How many miles on the vehicle? Is it possible this has been happening for a while and this is just the first time you noticed it? That would make this a lot less mysterious. Knowing how the pcv system works (not saying you don't) I can't imagine it would be the source of your problem. If you have no problems with your current method suddenly changing can invite a problem. Such as your switch to a different oil. It's not likely though. If the problem doesn't come back I say try not to worry about it. Unless someone else around here has had the same problem and can offer a clue. Good luck. On a side note. When did you install the racepipe? Have you tried the stage 2 ots map with your setup? I believe the first cat should be replaced with a high flow cat but a lot of guys have gone stage 2 with a racepipe (and the other supporting mods obviously) and had decent results. Just curious. Do what your comfortable with.

The vehicle has now 60k miles on it. It is possible that this is happening for a while and I did not notice it BUT I never saw black oil spatters on the trunk before. And since then I never saw it again.
The race pipe is on it for a long time, previous owner installed it already.. I bought the AP and flashed it to the normal stage 1 map. Then I bought the SRI, TIP and HPFP and flashed it to stage 1+, then I had to do MAF calibration because AFR dropped from 11.6 to mid 10's.. I did some emailing with the guys from cobb, because on their website they say you can run stage 2 with only a racepipe (https://static.cobbtuning.com/cobbtu..._12%20v231.pdf) and on the forums you reed many different things, one say yes you can, others say no you cant, so I asked it ! The guy from cobb told me I can run stage 2 unless there was underboosting. I did not see underboosting (had 18.7psi or something) but it did not feel smooth. So I switched back to stage 1+ after max 150 miles. This is now 2 months ago I think ? I still got the mails from cobb..
ps; 2 days ago I bought a tune from Freektune, because it looks like cobb is not what they look like I gues.. Thanks for the help and thinking with me robb !!

[robbspeed]

Originally Posted by DC2 The vehicle has now 60k miles on it. It is possible that this is happening for a while and I did not notice it BUT I never saw black oil spatters on the trunk before. And since then I never saw it again. The race pipe is on it for a long time, previous owner installed it already.. I bought the AP and flashed it to the normal stage 1 map. Then I bought the SRI, TIP and HPFP and flashed it to stage 1+, then I had to do MAF calibration because AFR dropped from 11.6 to mid 10's.. I did some emailing with the guys from cobb, because on their website they say you can run stage 2 with only a racepipe (https://static.cobbtuning.com/cobbtu..._12%20v231.pdf) and on the forums you reed many different things, one say yes you can, others say no you cant, so I asked it ! The guy from cobb told me I can run stage 2 unless there was underboosting. I did not see underboosting (had 18.7psi or something) but it did not feel smooth. So I switched back to stage 1+ after max 150 miles. This is now 2 months ago I think ? I still got the mails from cobb.. ps; 2 days ago I bought a tune from Freektune, because it looks like cobb is not what they look like I gues.. Thanks for the help and thinking with me robb !!

Any time man. I'm glad the cars running well for you. Just for absolute clarity maybe you should switch the oil back to the semi synthetic you were using before and keep a close eye on your exhaust. See if anything changes. Keep me updated.

[DC2]

Originally Posted by robbspeed Any time man. I'm glad the cars running well for you. Just for absolute clarity maybe you should switch the oil back to the semi synthetic you were using before and keep a close eye on your exhaust. See if anything changes. Keep me updated.

Ok I will !
At the moment, she runs pretty good. Very happy with it. Looking forward to complete the freektune.. If I had some engine damage, or broken turbo I would smoke all the time.

[Design]

Any smoke at startup? Could be valve seals.

[DC2]

Originally Posted by Design Any smoke at startup? Could be valve seals.

Nope, nothing.

[DC2]

Update; when I installed my downpipe, the car was now smoking ALWAYS after cold start and idling. So maybe because the oil was thick and cold, the turbo pushed it out through the seals.. I installed a smaller oil feed banjo bolt and the problem was solved..

[WetzMS3]

Originally Posted by DC2 Update; when I installed my downpipe, the car was now smoking ALWAYS after cold start and idling. So maybe because the oil was thick and cold, the turbo pushed it out through the seals.. I installed a smaller oil feed banjo bolt and the problem was solved..

Your turbo seals are beginning to fail. The banjo bolt as well as switching to a 10w-40 oil will help prevent the oil from passing the seals for a while, but it likely only a matter of time before they fail completely.

[DC2]

Originally Posted by WetzMS3 Your turbo seals are beginning to fail. The banjo bolt as well as switching to a 10w-40 oil will help prevent the oil from passing the seals for a while, but it likely only a matter of time before they fail completely.

I'm running 15w30 for the moment, next month she will get new oil and filters. Time to switch to 10w40 then !
When the time has come, and my turbo fails completely. I think that moment is the perfect excuse to install a upgraded turbo

[mituc]

15w30... If your car had a mouth and fists it your bite you from the neck and punch you in the eyes on cold starts, especially when that 15w oil is in there over winter nights.

[DC2]

Sorry, its 5w30 not 15w30

[mituc]

Originally Posted by DC2 Sorry, its 5w30 not 15w30

Well, that's a lot better but not ideal... The thinner the oil, the higher the penetration and flow capabilities. So with these weak seals on the factory turbo a w30 grade oil will simply to past the seals when it's hot enough and there;s not enough back pressure in the exhaust to push back the turbo seals (at idle there's one of these situations). I've never looked at the banjo bolt as a viable solution because I always assumed that the oil flow was calculated properly for lubrication and cooling. But moving to 5w40 early in my car's life (27k km) got me a stock turbo in pristine condition at 103k km when I replaced id with the GTX.

Well, now you have the occasion, justification and need (look at it how you want ) to throw at least a BNR S3 or a GTX2867/71 in there