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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Hey guys I bought and installed the CS turbo a week ago. I'm having serious boost creep issues with this thing and me and my tuner cannot get it under control. New EBCS, bigger boost lines off of ebcs, wastegate flapper isn't getting stuck inside the downpipe etc. I hooked up the boost port from the turbo to the top of the wastegate to see if it was working properly and it definitely is. Hold strong at 17 psi with that set up. I opened the wastegate arm a little bit more to allow a little bit of preload off the turbo. Turbo is boost creeping from 19 psi up to 22 until fuel cut. I read that having a catless exhaust will do this but I'm looking for opinions because this is getting ridiculous. Mods are CS hpfp internals, atp 3" intake, atp catless downpipe, speed daddy cbe, ngk 1 step colders, matt damond egr block off, jbr occ, jbr motor mounts, Treadstone FMIC with TR8, coolant bypass and tb gasket etc. Thanks ![]() |
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__________________ '08 MS3 // Corksport Turbo // JBR 3.5" WP // CNT Racing Turbo-Back // CX Racing FMIC // COBB AP // SURE Ventus // SURE Return // Damond Motorsports PMM & TMM // SURE Torq R3 // Stratified Guardian Angel // Autotech HPFP Internals // JBR EBCS // Corksport 3.5bar MAP // JBR S2 OCC // JBR EGR Delete // JBR TIG's // CP-e Safe Seals // SURE Shortcut // Corksport Swaybars // Bilstein Sports // H&R Springs // Tenzo R Type M 18"x8" // Michelin PSS | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score He mentions CS internals.
And if your tuner doesn't realize this, and you've given him your mod list, you might want to get a new tuner.
__________________ All good things must come to an end... | |
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EBCS 3 port, 1 line from manifold, 1 line from intake and 1 line from wastegate. Which brand of EBCS you have denotes where these go. Good luck dude.
__________________ 2010 BM - FREEKTUNED - BNRS3 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score OK, I moved all the related posts from the Corksport general thread over here, and cleaned it up a bit. I think this will really help. |
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| 6 mods and some Kool-Aid ![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Jax, FL
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You will probably need a revised map with the changes. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score IMO you are doing a lot of work for nothing. You pulled 17psi on the wastegate alone, so it can only be one of a few things...plumbing to ebcs incorrect, faulty ebcs thats not opening, faulty wiring keeping ebcs closed. What are you doing with both ports on the wg? Is one blocked with a cap while in 3 port? On my corksport turbo with corksport catless dp and rp with a grimmspeed ebcs I have port 2 on wg with other wg port capped, port 3 straight to turbo, and port 1 goes to my jbr 3.5" intake toob. This is on 3 port interrupt not for 2 port bleed For reference Ryan is also tuning my car with great success so far
__________________ 06 MS6 GT Titanium Gray II Metallic Last edited by davychronic; 10-08-2015 at 09:20 AM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score +1 for advising you to leave the DP on. Sent from my iPhone 6 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Ok so I guess what I'm gonna need is someone with more extensive knowledge,such as you guys, to look at my car in person and help diagnose this problem Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @L0k1; could maybe help. He's in that area but not sure where he stands on tech knowledge.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I don't know of any capping of a 3 port solenoid that should be done. Hook port 3 to the high pressure source and port 2 to the wga. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If you vent port 1 and dont cap the intake, you will have issues. You can leave a cap off port 2 on the wg but a cap keeps out dirt and debris.
__________________ 06 MS6 GT Titanium Gray II Metallic |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The high pressure source is on the wrong port. (point being) You can vent the 3 port vta understood, but need to cap the intake. Port 1 vta or back into intake tract Port 2 to top of wga Port 3 use a step down , i.e. the line that previously went to the bottom of the wga is 6mm. You have capped the bottom of the wga, so that line is the high pressure boost source. That line is 6mm, so use the 4mm step down and run it to port 3. Last edited by rfinkle2; 10-08-2015 at 12:05 PM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Assuming he is still using a grimmspeed, i pulled this from an earlier (not related to this problem) thread.... if that matches I believe that is how a 2 port should be done? Grimmspeed EBCS in 2-port mode
__________________ mods: \\// AT HPFP // AccessPort // CS S2 TIP, SRI and TMIC // CPe S2 RMM // Synapse BPV // Mazda gutted secondary cat // S-OTS+ 91S2 // HKS TP DLi II // Wilwood DP6 13” brakes // TCE 2 piece rear rotors // Maxwell SuperCap/LiFePO4 cell \\// waiting for install: \\// CPE Catted DP // CS Battery Box // Devils Own Meth kit // H&R Coilovers \\// |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm suggesting an alternative that might help. I wouldn't know why you would run a 3 port solenoid in 2 port mode. Hey, try it if you want, don't if you don't. If I was tuning the car, I'd make the suggestion. Everything else has been attempted with no solution. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Sorry, I agree with you, thought you were saying it was currently hooked up wrong (it looks right; but OP should confirm where 1 and 2 are connected to currently) the only reason I could think to run a 3 in 2 is replacing/keeping ‘stock’ behavior, if a tuner is involved, set it up for 3 port and tune for it.
__________________ mods: \\// AT HPFP // AccessPort // CS S2 TIP, SRI and TMIC // CPe S2 RMM // Synapse BPV // Mazda gutted secondary cat // S-OTS+ 91S2 // HKS TP DLi II // Wilwood DP6 13” brakes // TCE 2 piece rear rotors // Maxwell SuperCap/LiFePO4 cell \\// waiting for install: \\// CPE Catted DP // CS Battery Box // Devils Own Meth kit // H&R Coilovers \\// |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Does anyone know what the voltage or ohms coming from the ebcs wiring harness should be? Could someone go test theirs real quick please? Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk |
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I can do it tonight when I get off work. You sure your boost tubes don't have any holes? Have you done a boost test? | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Ryan mt tuner wants me to put my catted downpipe back on and so does the tech from Corksport. So that's what I'm doing in the morning. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Godspeed |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Make sure you get a revised map. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If it holds at 17psi with the boost source directly to the WG then swapping DPs isn't going to solve your issue. I haven't read through all the posts, but have you checked all the hoses on the EBCS to make sure none are split, cracked or otherwise not optimal?
__________________ --- 2011 Black Mica MS3 Tech --- ![]() www.stratifiedauto.com COBB AP and VersaTuner Custom Tuning. Guardian Angel Protection and Boost Control. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score so what would cause the same combo on another car to not creep? witchcraft?
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score The good idea fairy and comment Kings have run their course. Thank you for the help everyone who actually gave me positive input. It's comments like this ^^^^ that piss me off Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score There is nothing wrong with his comment...but it's not creep.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I've had two very reputable tuners tell me it IS creep and they both tell me putting a cat back in my exhaust will help with the problem. I've literally run every single other option and everyone keeps telling me the same things to do. I can only take off my battery, intake, battery box and other stuff, then change boost lines, zip ties, and ebcs's so many times with the same result before I lose my mind. The only time anything made a difference is when I directly hooked up boost from turbo to wastegate and it worked at 17psi. I'm taking full trust in my tuner, like anyone should with as trustworthy of a tuner as Ryan Martin, and I'm putting my stock dp back on. End of story. If you are gonna tell me that it isn't something that many people have already told me it is, then I don't want your opinion. Thanks, rant over. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Then why did you come here asking? Don't ask if you're going to have that kind of attitude. Figure the shit out yourself.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score sorry that was my version of the socratic method. if other people run this turbo with a catless exhaust without creep, but you need a cat to achieve the same result, then your cat is a bandaid for the real problem. good luck.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score OP. Let it go. At least no one is saying in before ZZB because you can't figure your shit out. If it's the cat then prove everyone wrong and show a solution to those that have the issue with similar setup in the future. |
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__________________ Cobb SRI :|: Cobb TIP :|: CPE Stg 2 RMM :|: JBR 70 PMM :|: AutoTech Internals :|: AP V3 |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Word 👍 Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk Last edited by vesestilldrumming; 10-08-2015 at 08:54 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If it's creepy then why does my grimspeed, CS turbo, and catless combo stay right on boost target? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score if you have no creep when the boost source is connected to the wastegate then you do not have creep you have a boost control problem. So you are faced with a situation where one configuration runs without creep and then by simply reconnecting one part you suddenly have creep. This is the classic cause and effect, you are faced with narrowing it down to which part of the ecbs is faulty, wiring plumbing or the valve itself. Anyone recommending putting in a carted downpipe is putting a bandaid on a broken leg all this will do is mask your boost control issue. So by all means waste your time swapping downpipes but we will see you tomorrow same time same place with the same boost control problem. Hopefully your sandy vagina didn't piss too many people off and someone will still be willing to help you.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Obviously you are frustrated that the problem will not go away. But step back after you do what you do, and ask yourself if you fixed the problem, or masked the symptom. Because if it's not fixed, and you do creep or get a spike down the road that leads to ZZB, it's going to be a lot more expensive. My advice is to look into the stratified guardian angel. In your case, it's something to install for sure. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I believe @lpugfan2004 had the same problem, i think he had to add a cat into his downpipe to fix the problem...he can answer better tho...
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After 2 months of tinkering and trying shit (nothing worked), corksport helped me out and sold me a cat, got it welded in and it holds spring pressure without an issue, with an ebcs and without an ebcs. I don't know if I just bandaided another problem, but my tuner and local Nator members were completely out of ideas and a cat was my last resort. OP it could very well work for you, but it seems that since you can put the WG directly onto boost source and it holds that something else may be going on here and ignoring the base problem by putting a cat back on may cause more harm than good. It sounds like boost creep is NOT your issue though. It is a boost control issue. Have you called Corksport? I was in constant contact with Barret / Eric / Vincent through the entire ordeal and they were more than helpful. They even sent me a WG actuator to eliminate that as a fault. In the defense of OP, hearing "my car with the same setup doesnt creep" gets old really fast. I heard it for 2 months with little to no suggestions from anybody and just stopped asking for suggestions. tldr; I had similar issue, was definitely boost creep, put cat in. OPs problem is not creep, its a boost control issue.
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