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 Old 10-11-2013, 05:43 AM   #1
 
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Default Increasing boost temps during wot

After putting in a JBR egr delete and tig for the throttle body I noticed my boost temps were increasing at wot instead of decreasing like before. Bat will drop after letting off and when I just cruise at normal highway speed. Also went one stage colder plugs. I've looked but couldn't find anything.


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 Old 10-11-2013, 07:08 AM   #2
 
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Roughly 66 outside with cruising bat at 75 then increase to 90 during wot



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 Old 10-11-2013, 07:24 AM   #3
 
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The OEM TMIC is known for heatsoaking like no other.
Do you have any logs?
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 Old 10-11-2013, 07:30 AM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by manila View Post
The OEM TMIC is known for heatsoaking like no other.
Do you have any logs?
Heat soak has never been an issue going 70 down the highway and it's never increased bat during wot. No logs yet I'll take one after work


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I'm more curious if the egr delete, coolant bypass or colder plugs are the cause. I did spill some radiator fluid doing the coolant by pass but coolant temp was 180 so I doubt that is it


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 Old 10-11-2013, 07:30 AM   #5
 
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Seems like a normal range. My BATs will go up if I start with really low BATs and will go down if they start high (heat soak). Logs would help.
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 Old 10-11-2013, 07:32 AM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by shamie View Post
Seems like a normal range. My BATs will go up if Istart with really low BATs and will go down if they start high (heat soak). Logs would help.
I thought that as well seeing is how it was already cool out side. But it will be warmer when I leave work so I'll take a log then. When you say really low bats how low are they?


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 Old 10-11-2013, 08:02 AM   #7
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I'll have to look at the logs you sent me the other day when I get home, but it is normal for BATs to dip slightly on initial WOT and then creep up towards the end of the pull. On a stock TMIC with IATs in the 90s I've seen BATs start at 115, dip to 100-ish and climb to 130 by 6500 RPM. I'd say this is probably normal.
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 Old 10-11-2013, 08:28 AM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by Mike@Stratified View Post
I'll have to look at the logs you sent me the other day when I get home, but it is normal for BATs to dip slightly on initial WOT and then creep up towards the end of the pull. On a stock TMIC with IATs in the 90s I've seen BATs start at 115, dip to 100-ish and climb to 130 by 6500 RPM. I'd say this is probably normal.
Ill take what you say as gospel. It is most likely nothing since it is running great other wise but ill take a 3 and 4 gear log tonight and send it to you.


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 Old 10-11-2013, 10:41 AM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by Goodrich27 View Post
When you say really low bats how low are they?

.
I was refering to close to IAT. By high initial BATs during heatsoak I was closer to ECT.
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 Old 10-11-2013, 10:44 AM   #10
 
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I noticed the same behavior when I did the same. I think it's because they start lower than they would normally, and there is nowhere for the temps to go but up.
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 Old 10-11-2013, 11:01 AM   #11
 
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WMI

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 Old 10-11-2013, 11:13 AM   #12
 
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Normal. What kind of boost levels are you running? I'm guessing ots at 18-19? When you have the k04 operating out of it's efficiency range it's blowing a lot of hot air up top.
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 Old 10-11-2013, 06:48 PM   #13
 
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Took a log this afternoon on the way home everything is normal. Mike@stratified is doing my custom tune I'm not boosting anymore than about 18lbs. I'm going the bats were already low and going wot just made more heat than the stock intercooler could rapidly cool down. Sorry if this was a pointless thread but any time something is acting different I get that "oh shit" feeling so thanks for the help.


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 Old 10-12-2013, 09:02 PM   #14
 
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Put a fmic on youre pu. It will make a huge difference on bat and top end on your car.... or use water meth
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 Old 10-12-2013, 11:59 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by kev20 View Post
Put a fmic on youre pu. It will make a huge difference on bat and top end on your car.... or use water meth

Put meth instead. Meth will make you drop 40 degrees lol.
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 Old 10-13-2013, 12:44 PM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by mr.speedy3 View Post
Put meth instead. Meth will make you drop 40 degrees lol.
Or both, personnaly i prefere the fmic because the winter in canada is pretty cold
But if you live in state, upgrade tmic with wmi is a great combo.. no lag, colder and more power
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 Old 10-15-2013, 01:34 PM   #17
 
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FMIC in the future for sure but I've pretty much bought enough parts to keep my wife pissed off for a few months.
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Go fasters:Manley H beams and Wiseco 87.5mm Forged pistons with stock compression, GTX3076 with Tial 38mm EWG, Full Race exhaust manifold w/2000* ceramic coating, MD meth injection TB spacer and Devils Own DC30 WMI with DO14 nozzle, Cobb 3 port ebcs, Ultimate Racing V2 Catless DP, Relentless Customs PNP IM with VTCS delete, TR11 core with HTP under route piping,ACT 6 puck, Corksport catless RP and CBE, CPE Stage II RMM,Cpe side mounts, perm plate with MD sealed and VTA OCC, HTP 4in Intake,ISC N1 coilovers, CS RSB, Tial BPV, Auto tech internals, Cobb ap v3, CPE injector seals,ngk step colder plugs, JBR throttle body TIG and coolant bypass, Corksport polyurethane exhaust hangers, Motorcraft unicorn juice, t6 rotella, Stoptech slotted and drilled front rotors with posi quiet pads.

Rice:corksport led fogs, Corksport eyelids, Corksport hood struts ,blacked out genpu rims, red evil M front and rear, red calipers, Corksport black mud flaps, Corksport shift knob, powder coat red valve cover, Intercooler pipes, and black gloss intake manifold A pillar gauge mount w/ AEM AFR, Oil temp, and Oil pressure gauges.

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