Leaking HPFP O-Ring? Help

[BLKspd5]

I think I am having an issue with the HPFP screw seal O-Ring on the inside(X-Ring style). My OCC has been getting about 6-8oz of liquid in 300-400 miles. The liquid is a Corona beer color with very little oil in it. The weather has no affect on how fast it fills. I also noticed my dipstick being past the "Max" between 3k mile oil change intervals and smells like fuel. The fuel pressure has also dropped below 1650 at WOT sometimes, other times it'll stay above 1700. I know some fuel in oil is normal in these cars, but I would say this is abnormal.

The car runs great though, AFR is good at idle and under WOT, no CELS or misfires, fuel trims look great and it does not burn oil.

Things I have done:
(Some is irrelevant to this issue but I will list it just in case)
-Routed OCC Damond/JBR way and Corksport way.
-Replaced Injector O-Rings.
-Replaced hard fuel line O-Rings at fuel rail.
-Replaced the O-Rings in the HPFP

Leakdown & Compression results:
Cylinder #1 6%/190
Cylinder #2 3%/195
Cylinder #3 4%/195
Cylinder #4 5%/185

I read in another forum post about the stepped piston design causing pressure on the seal screw on the back stroke from whatever fuel gets behind the step on the piston(see post #60 on the link). Could this be causing my problem? That post also has similar symptoms to mine, I would like input on this since I have changed the seal screw O-Ring already twice and still am getting problems, but I have no idea where else the fuel could be coming from since the leakdown looked good. I am thinking about swapping back to OEM internals and seeing how that goes.

[Bingo]

These seals are finicky, there's a very real chance that the replacement was damaged. When I had this problem, my car idled rough, threw P2188, smelled strongly of fuel from the oil cap, and read over max on the dipstick. I'm sure your case is more minor as a result of the catch can. When you replaced it, did you clean the O-ring? If so, with what?

[BLKspd5]

Originally Posted by Bingo These seals are finicky, there's a very real chance that the replacement was damaged. When I had this problem, my car idled rough, threw P2188, smelled strongly of fuel from the oil cap, and read over max on the dipstick. I'm sure your case is more minor as a result of the catch can. When you replaced it, did you clean the O-ring? If so, with what?

Wiped it out and I lubed it up with petroleum jelly and put it in. You can't see if once the piston goes in so it's hard to tell if it got messed up or not.

[Bingo]

Well I ask since I believe I destroyed my first by essentially dowsing the internals in brake cleaner, which made the O-ring brittle. To my knowledge, petroleum jelly would have a similar effect. I would honestly recommend not cleaning it at all out of the package, just wear sterile gloves during install. I can't guarantee this is your issue, but it's certainly what I'm leaning toward.

[Thor Hammer]

Typically when fuel gets past the screw seal and into the crankcase you will throw P2188. Rich at idle. And your fuel trims will be at high negative level.

I have the o-rings if you need one. Just shoot me a PM. No charge.

[BLKspd5]

I was tuned while this was happening. Maybe that's why I'm not throwing a code?

[Bingo]

Well I'm thinking your OCC is helping you out in the running rich department; the tune could be as well.

[BLKspd5]

Originally Posted by Thor Hammer Typically when fuel gets past the screw seal and into the crankcase you will throw P2188. Rich at idle. And your fuel trims will be at high negative level. I have the o-rings if you need one. Just shoot me a PM. No charge.

I edited the OP I have actually replaced it twice and still same problem. Wonder if I'm doing something wrong. I'll pay you for shipping.

[frothy]

Why not pull the plug from the pump housing and confirm whether fuel is making its way past the O-ring?

[BLKspd5]

Originally Posted by frothy Why not pull the plug from the pump housing and confirm whether fuel is making its way past the O-ring?

I will do that today. Is it just the plug on the side(arrow pointing to it) or the one on top as well?

[frothy]

Originally Posted by BLKspd5 I will do that today. Is it just the plug on the side or the one on top as well?

The lower plug is the only one you need to remove.

[BLKspd5]

Originally Posted by frothy The lower plug is the only one you need to remove.

It came out thinner and clearer oil at first then was darker oil. I would say it's mostly oil with a gas smell. What came out first smelled more like gas than the darker oil though.

[BLKspd5]

Sorry for the double post. Here is a picture of the OCC after 250 miles and what I could catch out of the pump housing. At first I just drained it all over the car on accident and it was a little darker than the color of the catch can but a little thicker consistency. Then I plugged it back up and got a cup to put under it to catch the rest, which was dark(pictured).

[BLKspd5]

Been a while since I've updated this post. Still in search of an answer. I highly doubt this is just condensation. Some weird issues I've been having lately is jerky/hesitation around 2300 RPM and the idle will bob up and down a couple times then level out when coming to a stop putting the clutch in, these are both only when the car isn't fully warmed up. I usually let the car idle for 5 mins before driving it in the mornings.

I recently replaced the X ring the HPFP piston slides through and put the OEM piston back in with no luck. I am still getting the same results.

I pulled the plug on the HPFP housing and it was oil in there, it seemed normal. So now I'm thinking something else is the issue?

[New2MS3]

I seem to have the exact same issue and would also like some help. I have not changed the seals in the HPFP though.

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[ktmrotax]

Originally Posted by BLKspd5 Been a while since I've updated this post. Still in search of an answer. I highly doubt this is just condensation. Some weird issues I've been having lately is jerky/hesitation around 2300 RPM and the idle will bob up and down a couple times then level out when coming to a stop putting the clutch in, these are both only when the car isn't fully warmed up. I usually let the car idle for 5 mins before driving it in the mornings. I recently replaced the X ring the HPFP piston slides through and put the OEM piston back in with no luck. I am still getting the same results. I pulled the plug on the HPFP housing and it was oil in there, it seemed normal. So now I'm thinking something else is the issue?

You need to be carefull about piston swaping, the X-ring is just an oil scraper, it's not ment for high pressure seal.
If you look inside the pump screw, there is another seal (hydro soft bushing) kept in place by a pressed washer; that's doing the actual pressure seal and controls the sliding of the piston.

If you try cleaning the ID you can damage or scratch that seal bushing and you'll need another screw cap or another pump.

[New2MS3]

I seemed to have fixed the issue. I completely dis assembled the hpfp and replaced all of the seals. It seemed to do the trick. No more rising oil.

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