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 Old 06-21-2015, 03:13 PM   #1
 
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Default Oil leaking from turbo

So I recently had to pull my turbo due to downpipe studs breaking off (long story) after install everything seemed fine took it to work the next day and when I walked out to my car there was a small puddle of oil under it. Got it home checked the feed line and return line and I couldn't find anything out of place. It's definitely coming from the top end so maybe the top of the return or possibly the feed. Everything is tight and snug. Return line bolts are in there proper spot. Any ideas?
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The go: Depo racing: downpipe (100 cell count), custom: FMIC. HTP: 3.5" intake, under route piping. JBR: shortshifter, RSB. Autotech: HPFP internals. Go fast bits: hybrid BPV, VMR: 18x8.5 V710s, Bridgestone: potenza re760 245/40/18, KW: v3 coilovers,SPC: camber arms, freektuned, Damond Motorsports: dual OCC, PMM, PCV plate, RMM, TMM, EGR delete, FoSt mani, Corksport: battery box(fuck this thing), injector seals, Cobb: EBCS, AP v3. AEM: methanol. Seibon: carbon fiber hood. UR: catback. Bosch: 3bar. BNR: s4, DNP: EWG manifold, Tial: 38mm mvs EWG.

The show: 5% tint all around, 50% tint windshield, rally armor mudflaps, Sony XAV64BT touchscreen headunit, katskin leather interior, CPE relocation plate, Maisonvi weighted shift knob, Corksport hoodscoop, black housing headlights.

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 Old 06-21-2015, 03:29 PM   #2
 
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Any moisture at the return line? Block or turbo side? I had to replace my return line gaskets a while ago. It was a very small leak and not enough to form a puddle but enough to see a small run down the block and down the return line.
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 Old 06-21-2015, 04:28 PM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by LatinKraze View Post
Any moisture at the return line? Block or turbo side? I had to replace my return line gaskets a while ago. It was a very small leak and not enough to form a puddle but enough to see a small run down the block and down the return line.
It's just coated in oil. From the turbo side. Do you remember where you got the gaskets from? Also if you don't mind me asking, what was the damage price wise on those? I know from experience buying from Mazda gets pricey
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The go: Depo racing: downpipe (100 cell count), custom: FMIC. HTP: 3.5" intake, under route piping. JBR: shortshifter, RSB. Autotech: HPFP internals. Go fast bits: hybrid BPV, VMR: 18x8.5 V710s, Bridgestone: potenza re760 245/40/18, KW: v3 coilovers,SPC: camber arms, freektuned, Damond Motorsports: dual OCC, PMM, PCV plate, RMM, TMM, EGR delete, FoSt mani, Corksport: battery box(fuck this thing), injector seals, Cobb: EBCS, AP v3. AEM: methanol. Seibon: carbon fiber hood. UR: catback. Bosch: 3bar. BNR: s4, DNP: EWG manifold, Tial: 38mm mvs EWG.

The show: 5% tint all around, 50% tint windshield, rally armor mudflaps, Sony XAV64BT touchscreen headunit, katskin leather interior, CPE relocation plate, Maisonvi weighted shift knob, Corksport hoodscoop, black housing headlights.

Soon:built motor

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 Old 06-21-2015, 07:32 PM   #4
 
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onlinemazdaparts.com

Can't remember the price but it wasn't too bad.
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 Old 06-21-2015, 08:02 PM   #5
 
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Do you have the copper crush gaskets on both top and bottom of the oil feed banjo? I would pull them off to see if you got any debris on them while wrenching, might have some grit in there.
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 Old 06-21-2015, 08:13 PM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by JgamB View Post
Do you have the copper crush gaskets on both top and bottom of the oil feed banjo? I would pull them off to see if you got any debris on them while wrenching, might have some grit in there.
Yes sir they are on both top and bottom. I double checked that today actually and they are all good. The turbo side of the return line is the one leaking I checked the gasket and I can't see any visible damage but I'm going to try and replace it to see what happens
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The go: Depo racing: downpipe (100 cell count), custom: FMIC. HTP: 3.5" intake, under route piping. JBR: shortshifter, RSB. Autotech: HPFP internals. Go fast bits: hybrid BPV, VMR: 18x8.5 V710s, Bridgestone: potenza re760 245/40/18, KW: v3 coilovers,SPC: camber arms, freektuned, Damond Motorsports: dual OCC, PMM, PCV plate, RMM, TMM, EGR delete, FoSt mani, Corksport: battery box(fuck this thing), injector seals, Cobb: EBCS, AP v3. AEM: methanol. Seibon: carbon fiber hood. UR: catback. Bosch: 3bar. BNR: s4, DNP: EWG manifold, Tial: 38mm mvs EWG.

The show: 5% tint all around, 50% tint windshield, rally armor mudflaps, Sony XAV64BT touchscreen headunit, katskin leather interior, CPE relocation plate, Maisonvi weighted shift knob, Corksport hoodscoop, black housing headlights.

Soon:built motor
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 Old 06-22-2015, 03:26 AM   #7
 
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i had to replace mine on my em turbo and then n my gtx turbo. the copper rings that is. after that, no more annoying leak.
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 Old 09-25-2016, 02:06 PM   #8
 
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Did yours like this?

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 Old 09-25-2016, 02:43 PM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by Lex2007 View Post
Did yours like this?

Yup. Identical.
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2010 black mica speed3
The go: Depo racing: downpipe (100 cell count), custom: FMIC. HTP: 3.5" intake, under route piping. JBR: shortshifter, RSB. Autotech: HPFP internals. Go fast bits: hybrid BPV, VMR: 18x8.5 V710s, Bridgestone: potenza re760 245/40/18, KW: v3 coilovers,SPC: camber arms, freektuned, Damond Motorsports: dual OCC, PMM, PCV plate, RMM, TMM, EGR delete, FoSt mani, Corksport: battery box(fuck this thing), injector seals, Cobb: EBCS, AP v3. AEM: methanol. Seibon: carbon fiber hood. UR: catback. Bosch: 3bar. BNR: s4, DNP: EWG manifold, Tial: 38mm mvs EWG.

The show: 5% tint all around, 50% tint windshield, rally armor mudflaps, Sony XAV64BT touchscreen headunit, katskin leather interior, CPE relocation plate, Maisonvi weighted shift knob, Corksport hoodscoop, black housing headlights.

Soon:built motor
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 Old 09-25-2016, 02:54 PM   #10
 
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ok so its the copper gasket on the turbo oil feed line? Do you have a part #?

Update: Sorry I mean gaskets 9 and 10 in schematic below?

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 Old 09-25-2016, 04:59 PM   #11
 
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#9 that's the oil return line
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2010 black mica speed3
The go: Depo racing: downpipe (100 cell count), custom: FMIC. HTP: 3.5" intake, under route piping. JBR: shortshifter, RSB. Autotech: HPFP internals. Go fast bits: hybrid BPV, VMR: 18x8.5 V710s, Bridgestone: potenza re760 245/40/18, KW: v3 coilovers,SPC: camber arms, freektuned, Damond Motorsports: dual OCC, PMM, PCV plate, RMM, TMM, EGR delete, FoSt mani, Corksport: battery box(fuck this thing), injector seals, Cobb: EBCS, AP v3. AEM: methanol. Seibon: carbon fiber hood. UR: catback. Bosch: 3bar. BNR: s4, DNP: EWG manifold, Tial: 38mm mvs EWG.

The show: 5% tint all around, 50% tint windshield, rally armor mudflaps, Sony XAV64BT touchscreen headunit, katskin leather interior, CPE relocation plate, Maisonvi weighted shift knob, Corksport hoodscoop, black housing headlights.

Soon:built motor
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 Old 09-25-2016, 05:43 PM   #12
 
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You mean the gasket is #9 (and 10). The hard line is #8 .

I watched the area while the engine was running and someone was raising RPMs and I saw no dripping.

I see wet spots that could be point of origin as indicated by the colored arrows. Red circles are just real wet spots and the black arrows are direction of flow of the leaking oil.



I wonder if the oil return line gasket could create such a pattern of leaking. Almost like its spraying oil under some maybe high RPM/load situations.
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 Old 09-25-2016, 05:45 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by Lex2007 View Post
You mean the gasket is #9 (and 10). The hard line is #8 .

I watched the area while the engine was running and someone was raising RPMs and I saw no dripping.

I see wet spots that could be point of origin as indicated by the colored arrows. Red circles are just real wet spots and the black arrows are direction of flow of the leaking oil.



I wonder if the oil return line gasket could create such a pattern of leaking. Almost like its spraying oil under some maybe high RPM/load situations.
I know. I should have worded that better. #9 is the gasket. The gasket is for oil return, not oil feed. It would leak when you turn the car off
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2010 black mica speed3
The go: Depo racing: downpipe (100 cell count), custom: FMIC. HTP: 3.5" intake, under route piping. JBR: shortshifter, RSB. Autotech: HPFP internals. Go fast bits: hybrid BPV, VMR: 18x8.5 V710s, Bridgestone: potenza re760 245/40/18, KW: v3 coilovers,SPC: camber arms, freektuned, Damond Motorsports: dual OCC, PMM, PCV plate, RMM, TMM, EGR delete, FoSt mani, Corksport: battery box(fuck this thing), injector seals, Cobb: EBCS, AP v3. AEM: methanol. Seibon: carbon fiber hood. UR: catback. Bosch: 3bar. BNR: s4, DNP: EWG manifold, Tial: 38mm mvs EWG.

The show: 5% tint all around, 50% tint windshield, rally armor mudflaps, Sony XAV64BT touchscreen headunit, katskin leather interior, CPE relocation plate, Maisonvi weighted shift knob, Corksport hoodscoop, black housing headlights.

Soon:built motor
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 Old 09-25-2016, 05:51 PM   #14
 
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Yes indeed return oil back into the block.

I actually saw some minor oil flow from the nut around/under indicated by the RED arrow but I cant be sure where it was coming from.
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 Old 09-25-2016, 05:55 PM   #15
 
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Just replace the gasket. It's only like $12.
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2010 black mica speed3
The go: Depo racing: downpipe (100 cell count), custom: FMIC. HTP: 3.5" intake, under route piping. JBR: shortshifter, RSB. Autotech: HPFP internals. Go fast bits: hybrid BPV, VMR: 18x8.5 V710s, Bridgestone: potenza re760 245/40/18, KW: v3 coilovers,SPC: camber arms, freektuned, Damond Motorsports: dual OCC, PMM, PCV plate, RMM, TMM, EGR delete, FoSt mani, Corksport: battery box(fuck this thing), injector seals, Cobb: EBCS, AP v3. AEM: methanol. Seibon: carbon fiber hood. UR: catback. Bosch: 3bar. BNR: s4, DNP: EWG manifold, Tial: 38mm mvs EWG.

The show: 5% tint all around, 50% tint windshield, rally armor mudflaps, Sony XAV64BT touchscreen headunit, katskin leather interior, CPE relocation plate, Maisonvi weighted shift knob, Corksport hoodscoop, black housing headlights.

Soon:built motor
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 Old 09-25-2016, 06:02 PM   #16
 
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I just dont know if its the gasket or my turbo taking a crap at 113k miles.

Hopefully its the $12 fix so I can go with a big turbo on my own terms.

Thanks for your input bro.
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 Old 09-25-2016, 06:05 PM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by Lex2007 View Post
I just dont know if its the gasket or my turbo taking a crap at 113k miles.

Hopefully its the $12 fix so I can go with a big turbo on my own terms.

Thanks for your input bro.
If the turbo was taking a shit it would spit oil in the exhaust and burn it off, not spit it outside of the turbo. 99% sure it's the gasket. Also make sure you have the gasket on properly when you replace it. There's a certain way it goes on and if I recall correctly one bolt may be longer than the other.
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2010 black mica speed3
The go: Depo racing: downpipe (100 cell count), custom: FMIC. HTP: 3.5" intake, under route piping. JBR: shortshifter, RSB. Autotech: HPFP internals. Go fast bits: hybrid BPV, VMR: 18x8.5 V710s, Bridgestone: potenza re760 245/40/18, KW: v3 coilovers,SPC: camber arms, freektuned, Damond Motorsports: dual OCC, PMM, PCV plate, RMM, TMM, EGR delete, FoSt mani, Corksport: battery box(fuck this thing), injector seals, Cobb: EBCS, AP v3. AEM: methanol. Seibon: carbon fiber hood. UR: catback. Bosch: 3bar. BNR: s4, DNP: EWG manifold, Tial: 38mm mvs EWG.

The show: 5% tint all around, 50% tint windshield, rally armor mudflaps, Sony XAV64BT touchscreen headunit, katskin leather interior, CPE relocation plate, Maisonvi weighted shift knob, Corksport hoodscoop, black housing headlights.

Soon:built motor
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 Old 09-25-2016, 06:15 PM   #18
 
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Cool. Thanks for the tips!
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 Old 09-25-2016, 07:09 PM   #19
 
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@Djohns; did that fix your leak? or you haven't had enough time to tell yet?
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 Old 09-25-2016, 07:16 PM   #20
 
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Originally Posted by sheston View Post
@Djohns; did that fix your leak? or you haven't had enough time to tell yet?
Oh yea. I posted this awhile ago. It fixed it immediately, well almost immediately. I installed the gasket upside down at first, (easy to do) but then I just flipped it and it stopped all leaking
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 Old 09-25-2016, 07:34 PM   #21
 
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@Lex2007; I saw you had another thread asking about this. Looks like you've got your answer
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 Old 09-26-2016, 08:00 AM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by sheston View Post
@Lex2007; I saw you had another thread asking about this. Looks like you've got your answer
Hopefully so, yes. Im gonna get the parts now and install. Fingers crossed.

Thanks to both of you guys.
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 Old 09-27-2016, 09:13 AM   #23
 
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Default Tips and part #s for replacing turbo oil return line gaskets Mazdasdpeed3

ok here are some pics of the tools and parts you need to get this done. Its a simple job with good access.



Into turbo:



Into engine block:







Something to clean the surface of the pipe flange faces. I used 3M Scotchbrite disks but emery cloth will suffice. You'll need a small strip of emery cloth for the turbo flange surface as its a tight space.





Inch Pound Torque Wrench. Why guess?



Note the orientation of the clips on the gaskets. They clip ONTO THE PIPE.

I have one pic of the old gasket still stuck to the turbo. Note 2 clips of 3 facing to the back of the car although my guess is it can be flipped the other way:



Then for the bottom flange into the engine block you can kinda see the original orientation of the gasket clips here (although I doubt it matters):



Dont forget Loctite Blue (medium) for the long engine block bolts.

And bolt locations compliments of Corkspeed:

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 Old 09-27-2016, 08:12 PM   #24
 
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Its still leaking, exactly like it was before I removed and replaced the gaskets.



I had a feeling this would be the case because I could see oil drops to the left and right of the the oil pipe. The lower end of the pipe wasnt nor is it leaking after new gaskets.

Does this imply that some other seal inside the turbo has failed?

The dripping is moderate but the problem isnt the volume of oil lost per mile driven but rather the fact that its dripping on to the hot manifold and burning.

Any advice would be appreciated.
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 Old 09-27-2016, 08:27 PM   #25
 
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Hmmmm. Is the pipe itself cracked? Where are you located? If local I can lend a hand. Also does it constantly leak or only when the car is off?
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 Old 09-27-2016, 08:41 PM   #26
 
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Youre too kind bro. Im in Washington DC.

I dont think its cracked. I had a friend rev the engine while I was under the car and I saw no leaking fro the pipe or flanges. I saw oil dripping from the seam indicated by the red arrow...but its exact origin isnt clear to me.

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 Old 10-06-2016, 07:56 AM   #27
 
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Having the same exact issue. Looks identical to your picture.


I have tried new return gaskets and new copper rings on the feed banjo. Thought maybe the bolts on the flange were bottoming out so I got stepdown studs which didn't help. Checked the flange and the chra for machining abnormalities that would prevent a solid seal. Nothing.

Said fuck it and threw the stock line away and got a kozmic return which I put on with new gaskets and it still fucking leaks.

I'd say the return is ruled out and the area around the feed banjo stays bone dry so that's ruled out...

Has been an issue since day one of going BT and I still literally have no idea where the oil is coming from and I have ran out of things to try.



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 Old 10-06-2016, 08:54 AM   #28
 
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Originally Posted by Funktionull View Post
Having the same exact issue. Looks identical to your picture.


I have tried new return gaskets and new copper rings on the feed banjo. Thought maybe the bolts on the flange were bottoming out so I got stepdown studs which didn't help. Checked the flange and the chra for machining abnormalities that would prevent a solid seal. Nothing.

Said fuck it and threw the stock line away and got a kozmic return which I put on with new gaskets and it still fucking leaks.

I'd say the return is ruled out and the area around the feed banjo stays bone dry so that's ruled out...

Has been an issue since day one of going BT and I still literally have no idea where the oil is coming from and I have ran out of things to try.



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I supposed if it bugs you that much you can always pull the turbo and dig further.
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 Old 10-06-2016, 09:01 AM   #29
 
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It should be obvious from looking at the top and bottom of the turbo whether it's the feed or return that's leaking. Purchase new washers for the feed banjo again, install, and torque to spec. They're not that expensive. Are you using the OEM banjo?
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 Old 10-06-2016, 09:23 AM   #30
 
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The only conclusion I have made is that it leaks the most during operation as there will be a film of oil on everything within 3 feet of the turbo after a day or so yet I can wipe everything clean and then cut the car off and nothing leaks as the oil is flowing back into the block.

There is oil in places that it couldn't possibly get to unless wind was blowing it so it's leaking during operation which would point to the feed line yet the top of the turbo is clean.

I watched it run on a lift for 20 minutes and nothing leaked. Drove 10 miles home and got under it and there was a bead of oil on both of the return flange nuts.

I'm pulling everything for a 6266 based build in march but it's irritating to not be able to fix something so simple.

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 Old 10-06-2016, 09:31 AM   #31
 
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Top of the turbo is and has always been dry. Stock banjo bolt

On the stock return I have even had oil show up on the flex ribs after cleaning everything and nowhere else. Oil will be there and both the feed and return flange will still be clean. Some paranormal shit imo.
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 Old 10-06-2016, 10:36 AM   #32
 
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Originally Posted by Funktionull View Post
Top of the turbo is and has always been dry. Stock banjo bolt

On the stock return I have even had oil show up on the flex ribs after cleaning everything and nowhere else. Oil will be there and both the feed and return flange will still be clean. Some paranormal shit imo.
I see you have a BT what do you have to reduce crank case ventilation? My thought is maybe you don't have enough relieving the pressure and the oil can't drain properly because of the pressure.
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 Old 10-06-2016, 11:44 AM   #33
 
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Maybe its the seals in the turbo and not the fittings to and from the turbo. I spoke to a guy at a turbo rebuild shop in northern VA and he said that at 113k miles on my turbo that it wasnt abnormal to have seals go bad inside the turbo. That's my diagnoses on my car. I see oil leaking down but its origin isnt the banjo bolts or oil return pipe flanges, which means it must be from seals inside the turbo.

How many miles on your OEM turbo?
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 Old 10-06-2016, 12:09 PM   #34
 
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I'm using a DM catch can but just one from the pcv and not on the vc.

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BT has 6k or so on it.

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 Old 10-06-2016, 01:09 PM   #35
 
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Have you pulled IC piping to see if there is oil in the intake tract? Any oil combustion might be masked by the cat. My car has the same issue at 80k
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 Old 10-06-2016, 01:11 PM   #36
 
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Originally Posted by MikeBavaro View Post
Have you pulled IC piping to see if there is oil in the intake tract? Any oil combustion might be masked by the cat. My car has the same issue at 80k
...say again?
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 Old 10-06-2016, 01:15 PM   #37
 
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Im thinking that it could be internal seals going bad. If it is leaking a slight amount of oil into the cold side of the turbo, the intercooler piping would have oil residue in it. While the car is (might) be burning oil, the catalytic converter could be masking any smoke produced.
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 Old 10-06-2016, 01:20 PM   #38
 
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Oh I see. Good point.

Ya I def have some oil inside the IC plumbing. Not a lot but some (less than a teaspoon) pooled in the inlet to the intercooler.

I rarely ever get any blue smoke and only at start up. Those are rare occasions which I can count on one hand over 113k miles (that Ive noticed).
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 Old 10-06-2016, 01:56 PM   #39
 
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I just checked my car, same thing...................
anyone got a good KO4 cartridge laying around?
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 Old 03-20-2019, 10:58 AM   #40
 
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Default My leak looks identical to Lex2007’s

What’s your final diagnosis and fix. My only visual clue is the connection between the turbo housing and the intake hose looks misaligned.
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