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| JAMES BARONE RACING JBR is a leading manufacturer of high-quality aftermarket parts for the Mazda community. We take pride in our reputation for providing the highest-quality performance products at the best values, and we back up that reputation with outstanding customer service and free shipping. We are committed to the Mazda platform and we actively partner with other members of the community in our selection, design, and testing of new products to make sure they meet their needs. We control every step in the engineering and fabrication process to ensure the highest standards of workmanship. The result is a line of products whose performance and reliability have been proven both on the street and on the track. Visit us at jamesbaroneracing.com |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Everything came packaged professionally, and James even threw in a free license plate bracket Loving the build quality and the flawless fitment. No clunks/clanks thus far. Amazing how much larger the JBR Sway is compared to the stock sway bar. Almost dwarfs it in comparison. As for it's affect on the car; major transformation towards the handling. I have the sway in the stiffest setting currently. The rear of the car literally follows the front now, with some aggressive sliding if provoked. Healthy oversteer to offset the understeer when plowing into a corner. Dare I say the rear feels more planted under heavy throttle in combination with the JBR Rear Motor Mount. I'm pleasantly surprised. Reminds me of my old Mazda 3 setup, but better. Thanks, James!
__________________ 2008.5 MGM Mazdaspeed3 Engine Cobb Accessport // Autotech HPFP Internals // Stratified Auto 3 Port Boost Control Solenoid (2-Port Mode) // Injen Cold Air Intake // CorkSport TIP // NGK Spark Plugs // Ultimate Racing Resonated Test Pipe // Stratified Auto S-OTS Stage 2+ Tune // Transmission JBR V2 Rear Motor Mount 80a // JBR Heavy Shift Knob // Corksport Shifter Bushings // Corksport Short Shift Plate // Suspension Koni Yellow Struts and Shocks with H&R Sport Springs // JBR Rear Sway Bar // 18x8 +45 Enkei Raijins in Black wrapped in Kumho Ecsta 4X All Seasons 235/40/18 Aesthetics JDM Axela Window Visors // Corksport LED Fog Lights // Corksport LED Interior Lights // Past: 1999 Crystal Blue Honda Prelude SH 2006 Titanium Grey Mazda 3 Hatchback (R.I.P.) 1995 Hyundai Elantra |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just orderd my rear sway bar, with the new brackets, and 70 rear motor mount.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Check out JBR's new brackets and Torsion RSB......those behomoths are bad ass!
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| Not Ranked : 0 score By torque wrench I'm hoping you meant breaker bar to loosen the nuts. Not good to loosen things with a torque wrench., for the torque wrenches sake. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score ^^This lol, torque wrenches are designed to tighten fasteners
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I used what I had. It is what it is.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Completely understandable, I've done worse with tools using them for what they weren't designed for. But by no means is this advice like you stated in the OP lol
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm not sure how you can ride around on full stiff. I didn't have trouble getting the back end out on the stock swaybar. I have mine set to medium and it's a world of difference though. Just be sure to go back and double check everything after the first 1-200 miles or so, make sure nothing starts coming loose.
__________________ Coming at ya with all 297/359 POWER: HTP 3" intake, Corksport BPV, Treadstone FMIC, Cobb EBCS, Autotech HPFP, CPE full catless DP ECU: self-tuned HANDLING: JBR RSB (Middle Setting) RICE: Stickers and stuff, mudflaps, floormats, Evil M, etc. RADAR: Passport Escort 9500ci |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Better check that torque wrench for accuracy next before you tighten your lugs. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I rock mine on the stiffest setting, don't be a pussy.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Such a well made piece, had mine on for a year now. Only issues I have had are needing to regrease the bushings after 3 months, grease gun makes that easy. Price is right too. I run mine on medium setting, but I also run 1* camber and 0* toe in back. With my SWAS disabled, full stiffest setting sends me into a spin, tough when running through a slalom when autox'in. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I'm sure the torque wrench is fine. If it isn't, Harbor Freight isn't too far from where I live. I'm sure I'll manage. The full stiff setting definitely leads to a lot more oversteer. I think the middle setting would be a great compromise for one seeking more balance. I prefer some oversteer. I went to the Luray Caverns over the weekend and had a chance to test out the setup. Extremely fun time. Those roads are dangerous for people who don't know how to drive well. The the rear sway gave the speed3 a very lively, grippy-slide feel. I enjoy it.
__________________ 2008.5 MGM Mazdaspeed3 Engine Cobb Accessport // Autotech HPFP Internals // Stratified Auto 3 Port Boost Control Solenoid (2-Port Mode) // Injen Cold Air Intake // CorkSport TIP // NGK Spark Plugs // Ultimate Racing Resonated Test Pipe // Stratified Auto S-OTS Stage 2+ Tune // Transmission JBR V2 Rear Motor Mount 80a // JBR Heavy Shift Knob // Corksport Shifter Bushings // Corksport Short Shift Plate // Suspension Koni Yellow Struts and Shocks with H&R Sport Springs // JBR Rear Sway Bar // 18x8 +45 Enkei Raijins in Black wrapped in Kumho Ecsta 4X All Seasons 235/40/18 Aesthetics JDM Axela Window Visors // Corksport LED Fog Lights // Corksport LED Interior Lights // Past: 1999 Crystal Blue Honda Prelude SH 2006 Titanium Grey Mazda 3 Hatchback (R.I.P.) 1995 Hyundai Elantra |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I run the middle setting now and really enjoy the balance for a dd ms3. It made a big difference and the corners even more fun. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score How much more stiff is the softest setting compared to stock? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Specifications Simulating 1" of body roll: Stock Sway Bar setting: MAZDASPEED 3 is 479 lbs/in MAZDA 3 & 5 is 228 lbs/in JBR 3-Way Adjustable Sway Bar Settings: Stiff setting is 593 lbs/in Stiffer Setting is 718 lbs/in Stiffest Setting is 901 lbs/in From Tru-Torsion.125 Rear Sway Bar - Black [MS3RSB-BLK] - $195.00 : James Barone Racing, Custom Fabrication |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Got my rear sway and motor mount installed on friday. All i can say is AMAZING. I am wondering why i waited so long to order them. I am running the middle stiffness on the sway and it feels planted. Thank you Jamie for the great products!
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I really like my RSB, but it was not as dramatic a difference over stock as I thought it would be. It is a nice balance though. I had some squeaking/clunking at first which i got a handle on I hope (fingers crossed). I do not like the quality of the bushing brackets though (from Prothane I believe). Has anyone upgraded to JBR's billet brackets?
__________________ (SOLD) 2013 Crystal White MS3--JBR 3.5" intake, very minor PNP intake manifold, CS TMIC, CS HPFP internals, CS BPV, JBR EGR delete and block-off, CFM RMM, CS TM insert, Cobb AP V3 with Stratified Stage 3 tunes (93 and E85 mix), VTCS delete, coolant bypass, 1 step colder plugs, CS shifter bushings, CS short shifter, Damond OCC, Ultra Gauge, Progress RSB, Koni dampers, Eibach Pro-Kit springs, JBR rear spacers, 235/40/18 Nitto Motivo tires, Drag DR-49 18x8" wheels, CNT cat-less DP, CNT cat-back, DDM HIDs, etc. 2017 Mazda CX-3 Meteor Gray |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It's not broken its likely in need of a calibration. If harbor freight is that close go get a breaker bar.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Sorry to continue on the torque wrench thing, but I've always wondered can't you just put the torque wrench in the loosening setting, set the torque higher than what the bolt/nut is tightened to, and be pretty much okay?
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We are talking about something that costs $13, how much does a good torque wrench cost? 1/2 in. Drive 25 in. Breaker Bar
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Using a torque wrench a a breaker makes me cringe. Also worth mentioning that you want to zero it out after each use. Furthermore, if its anything worth a shit, youll want to get it recalibrated once a year and avoid dropping it.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Anyone having squeaking bushings? I've taken them off and lubed twice with the sticky silicone that is always recommended for poly and the squeak comes back. It has been raining a lot here and now it is even worse although that stuff is supposed to be pretty much water proof. I can't get the bushings to take grease through the zerk. Not sure if it is my gun or the zerks. Short of new bushings of a different brand, what have you guys done? And it is not a clunk. Fixed that.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Squeaking is new. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Try adding some teflon tape to the bar where the bushing rides.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Its more of a scrunch, but it is definitely the poly bushings. Got them to take some grease. I'll see what it does tomorrow. I ordered the billet brackets. Not too fond of the metal ones. Deflect and bend easily. Hmmmmm, I'll try that this weekend. Thanks!
__________________ (SOLD) 2013 Crystal White MS3--JBR 3.5" intake, very minor PNP intake manifold, CS TMIC, CS HPFP internals, CS BPV, JBR EGR delete and block-off, CFM RMM, CS TM insert, Cobb AP V3 with Stratified Stage 3 tunes (93 and E85 mix), VTCS delete, coolant bypass, 1 step colder plugs, CS shifter bushings, CS short shifter, Damond OCC, Ultra Gauge, Progress RSB, Koni dampers, Eibach Pro-Kit springs, JBR rear spacers, 235/40/18 Nitto Motivo tires, Drag DR-49 18x8" wheels, CNT cat-less DP, CNT cat-back, DDM HIDs, etc. 2017 Mazda CX-3 Meteor Gray Last edited by TORQUERULES; 06-12-2014 at 07:24 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Use lots of grease, don't be shy. |
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__________________ (SOLD) 2013 Crystal White MS3--JBR 3.5" intake, very minor PNP intake manifold, CS TMIC, CS HPFP internals, CS BPV, JBR EGR delete and block-off, CFM RMM, CS TM insert, Cobb AP V3 with Stratified Stage 3 tunes (93 and E85 mix), VTCS delete, coolant bypass, 1 step colder plugs, CS shifter bushings, CS short shifter, Damond OCC, Ultra Gauge, Progress RSB, Koni dampers, Eibach Pro-Kit springs, JBR rear spacers, 235/40/18 Nitto Motivo tires, Drag DR-49 18x8" wheels, CNT cat-less DP, CNT cat-back, DDM HIDs, etc. 2017 Mazda CX-3 Meteor Gray |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score This is good advice. Motoiq uses Teflon Tape whenever they install sway bars as well to help with squeaks and such.
__________________ 2008.5 MGM Mazdaspeed3 Engine Cobb Accessport // Autotech HPFP Internals // Stratified Auto 3 Port Boost Control Solenoid (2-Port Mode) // Injen Cold Air Intake // CorkSport TIP // NGK Spark Plugs // Ultimate Racing Resonated Test Pipe // Stratified Auto S-OTS Stage 2+ Tune // Transmission JBR V2 Rear Motor Mount 80a // JBR Heavy Shift Knob // Corksport Shifter Bushings // Corksport Short Shift Plate // Suspension Koni Yellow Struts and Shocks with H&R Sport Springs // JBR Rear Sway Bar // 18x8 +45 Enkei Raijins in Black wrapped in Kumho Ecsta 4X All Seasons 235/40/18 Aesthetics JDM Axela Window Visors // Corksport LED Fog Lights // Corksport LED Interior Lights // Past: 1999 Crystal Blue Honda Prelude SH 2006 Titanium Grey Mazda 3 Hatchback (R.I.P.) 1995 Hyundai Elantra |
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![]() | | #31 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just installed the JBR billet brackets and now I am getting popping noises. Gonna loosen, reposition, and torque everything one more time. If it doesn't stop, the stock bar is going on. This bar and bracket combo is so nice, but the noise and my struggle to quiet it all is giving me fits.
__________________ (SOLD) 2013 Crystal White MS3--JBR 3.5" intake, very minor PNP intake manifold, CS TMIC, CS HPFP internals, CS BPV, JBR EGR delete and block-off, CFM RMM, CS TM insert, Cobb AP V3 with Stratified Stage 3 tunes (93 and E85 mix), VTCS delete, coolant bypass, 1 step colder plugs, CS shifter bushings, CS short shifter, Damond OCC, Ultra Gauge, Progress RSB, Koni dampers, Eibach Pro-Kit springs, JBR rear spacers, 235/40/18 Nitto Motivo tires, Drag DR-49 18x8" wheels, CNT cat-less DP, CNT cat-back, DDM HIDs, etc. 2017 Mazda CX-3 Meteor Gray |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The car has 2,800 miles on it. It brand new and babied. It was the last MS3 left in my area. I'm not trashing the bar, just at my wits end with the noises.
__________________ (SOLD) 2013 Crystal White MS3--JBR 3.5" intake, very minor PNP intake manifold, CS TMIC, CS HPFP internals, CS BPV, JBR EGR delete and block-off, CFM RMM, CS TM insert, Cobb AP V3 with Stratified Stage 3 tunes (93 and E85 mix), VTCS delete, coolant bypass, 1 step colder plugs, CS shifter bushings, CS short shifter, Damond OCC, Ultra Gauge, Progress RSB, Koni dampers, Eibach Pro-Kit springs, JBR rear spacers, 235/40/18 Nitto Motivo tires, Drag DR-49 18x8" wheels, CNT cat-less DP, CNT cat-back, DDM HIDs, etc. 2017 Mazda CX-3 Meteor Gray Last edited by TORQUERULES; 06-21-2014 at 11:13 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Make sure its centered and greased good. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Today, not ONE noise. Not one. Of course there were two of us in the car last night. The new bushings and brackets just might have been settling in. I have no idea. I did notice that with the brackets set to where the bolts were centered in the slots, the "arms" of the sway bar had been slightly hitting the control arms. Possibly my sound. I moved the brackets all the way down. Re-torqued everything. No sounds. Fingers crossed. Oh, and I greased the "s**t" out of the bushings. ;-)
__________________ (SOLD) 2013 Crystal White MS3--JBR 3.5" intake, very minor PNP intake manifold, CS TMIC, CS HPFP internals, CS BPV, JBR EGR delete and block-off, CFM RMM, CS TM insert, Cobb AP V3 with Stratified Stage 3 tunes (93 and E85 mix), VTCS delete, coolant bypass, 1 step colder plugs, CS shifter bushings, CS short shifter, Damond OCC, Ultra Gauge, Progress RSB, Koni dampers, Eibach Pro-Kit springs, JBR rear spacers, 235/40/18 Nitto Motivo tires, Drag DR-49 18x8" wheels, CNT cat-less DP, CNT cat-back, DDM HIDs, etc. 2017 Mazda CX-3 Meteor Gray |
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