3071 and a strang studder

[xcoldricex]

Originally Posted by madvillain I stick mine in my butthole.

that's how you test plugs, not coils.


i get the phantom kr even after the car is warmed up. always have, with and without the AP.

[bcmurphy87]

I unplugged the gsbc and decided to grab a few more logs. Datalog 12 was on in 4th the other 3 were wot pulls in 6th. Still stumbling hard but less knock.

KMD's are on back order for 2 weeks. I need them now

[acidbbg]

Originally Posted by bcmurphy87 I unplugged the gsbc and decided to grab a few more logs. Datalog 12 was on in 4th the other 3 were wot pulls in 6th. Still stumbling hard but less knock. KMD's are on back order for 2 weeks. I need them now

You should NOT be doing WOT pulls in 6th gear!
6th is strictly a highway gear meant for better fuel economy.
It's not meant for heavy accelerating, you should be down shifting.

I looked at your logs and FP is looking better but still dropping.
See attachment.

Seems like you have some serious boost creep.
Are you using a 13psi wg spring?

Sucks about KMD being out of stock but keep out of boost until you get them installed.

[bmylez]

Yeah, datalogging in 6th gear is a definite no-no. 3rd and 4th are all you need.

I understand it's hard not to have fun while driving a fun car, but 2 weeks isn't that bad if it saves your motor.

[bcmurphy87]

My bad i was trying to get new logs. Notes well taken. I am using what ever comes with the ATP turbos. It the factory wastegate on there. im not sure why its spiking so high

Just bought the kmds from another vendor that Maria @ KMD gave me. So there on their way via overnight.

[bmylez]

Oh nice. I hope it solves your problem.

[acidbbg]

Originally Posted by bcmurphy87 My bad i was trying to get new logs. Notes well taken. I am using what ever comes with the ATP turbos. It the factory wastegate on there. im not sure why its spiking so high

This is why: ATP 3071 (IWG probably the 13psi spring), CPE BT Inlet, PG Ex Mani, CPE DP, CorkSprt CBE, Ported IM.

Your mod list is basically has opened the flow of air on both the intake and exhaust side of the motor. Also, the ATP Turbo's w/ IWG are known to creep though I heard the newer models have the waste gate porting a bit to help (not stop) boost spiking.
See this thread for more details:
ATP 3071 vs. 3076 & "new" iwg porting

I bet if you went back to the stock diameter maf housing and threw on the oem cat-back exhaust, you wouldn't be seeing as high boost creeps. But than you would be losing out on some POWAR.

Sorry to say but IWG FTL.

[rodrigo]

i have a new 3071r , stock maf and catted dp.... my shit creeps to 18.5-19 at spring pressure of 12.75....

dont worry about creep...tune the fucker for 19psi or more and u will be golden.

i got my shit set at 21psi with mbc and the fucker holds 21psi +/- .4 across.

also, word to the wise, u see how alot of your KR is directly related with your 2.3 calculated load....and do u see how u are running retarded timing??? I dont know shit about tuning, but seems to be your shit is making abundant tq and the computer is trying to back off as much as it can........

stop using that fucken map man, u gonna be logging your engine blowing up soon

[bmylez]

Lenny, perhaps you could post one of your logs to show him what his should look more like. I know you don't have your tune dialed in, but you're also experiencing pretty much 0 KR as well as advanced timing (oh, and good FP, haha).

[rodrigo]

here is a log untuned (running conservative timing and safe AFR richening towards redline. 21psi across with MBC

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...0-6800-wot.csv

[acidbbg]

Originally Posted by bmylez Lenny, perhaps you could post one of your logs to show him what his should look more like. I know you don't have your tune dialed in, but you're also experiencing pretty much 0 KR as well as advanced timing (oh, and good FP, haha).

Your forgetting Lenny is running 100% meth versus the op who is not.

[rodrigo]

i wont cross the street without meth

[bmylez]

Originally Posted by acidbbg Your forgetting Lenny is running 100% meth versus the op who is not.

True, but he's also basically untuned and even his car isn't freaking out like the OP's. As Lenny said, it looks like the ECU doesn't like having 2.3 load, among other things. Obviously it's impossible to tell if it's the tune, the fuel pump, a combination, whatever. The logs don't lie, though, and it's definitely not acting right...not even like an *untuned* car like Lenny's.

[acidbbg]

The OP needs upgraded CD FP/Internals...Nuff said about that subject.

Regarding Lenny running advanced timing, I was simply stating that the meth permits him to advance his timing and run more boost and a leaner a/f ratio with less chance of knock.

Basically it's like he's running race fuel (over 100 octane) when spraying 100% meth.

[bcmurphy87]

My running ots maps, Im not sure what other map i should run. i have a protune map for my reworked k04 but it was for 20 psi

[Boosted Beluga]

Maybe try that map and do a log or 2 and see how it looks?

[bcmurphy87]

Ill be installing the internals today. Any tips on that?

As far as the map changes go i only have that one stg 2 map. Is there some where i dont know about to get new maps?

[rodrigo]

use them special gloves, lubricate with oil the internals, and torque the fuel pump assembly to 45-60 ftlbs of tq (not the 3 bolts to the head, but the 18mm nut or whatever size it is i forget

[acidbbg]

Originally Posted by bcmurphy87 Ill be installing the internals today. Any tips on that? As far as the map changes go i only have that one stg 2 map. Is there some where i dont know about to get new maps?

Check out these videos about the CDFP installs:

YouTube - MS3 PTP Fuel Pump & PCV Fix Part 2

YouTube - MS3 PTP Fuel Pump & PCV Fix Part 2

CDFP Internals Installation Video

Not sure where you can find a map specific to your setup.
Suggest you swap internals, break them in, make sure they are holding correct di fuel pressure (~400 at idle and ~1600-1800 at WOT) and then use same map from earlier (stg2 u mentioned) and post some datalogs. Be sure to do logs in 3rd & 4th starting around 3000 rpms upto 6500 rpms.

[djuosnteisn]

In your first set of logs, the part throttle KR occurs quite a bit around 3000 rpm ish....



Does your clutch vibrate just as you push it in at all during idle? When you change plugs, do a compression check.

[bcmurphy87]

Well the install was a failure today guys. I had the shop that just rebuilt the motor drop the internals in today. It took them about 2 hours to change them out. and back together. The t-bolts kicked their ass for the FMIC. Anyways after the install they put the relay back in and unplugged the injector harness. Turned the car over a few times to reprime the fp. Reconnected the harness and the car fired right up Fuel pressure was golding steady no noises. After about 10 minutes on the lift they decide to back it off and take it up the street before i could take it. No sooner than they went to pull away a loud screeching noise and the car stumbled, more screeching and then it died. I helped push it back on to the lift. They tore it back down pulled out the internals and low and behold the pin that sits near the cam lobe was heavly worn down and the washer looked like it had got ground on a little too.

Now im between a rock and a hard place. Hopefully i can get a warranty on the kmds, but not sure if i should get more internals or just get the CPE pump in fear my pump may be comprised now. either way the six is sitting at the shop until i talk to kmd tomorrow.

[hnda etr]

Originally Posted by bcmurphy87 Well the install was a failure today guys. I had the shop that just rebuilt the motor drop the internals in today. It took them about 2 hours to change them out. and back together. The t-bolts kicked their ass for the FMIC. Anyways after the install they put the relay back in and unplugged the injector harness. Turned the car over a few times to reprime the fp. Reconnected the harness and the car fired right up Fuel pressure was golding steady no noises. After about 10 minutes on the lift they decide to back it off and take it up the street before i could take it. No sooner than they went to pull away a loud screeching noise and the car stumbled, more screeching and then it died. I helped push it back on to the lift. They tore it back down pulled out the internals and low and behold the pin that sits near the cam lobe was heavly worn down and the washer looked like it had got ground on a little too. Now im between a rock and a hard place. Hopefully i can get a warranty on the kmds, but not sure if i should get more internals or just get the CPE pump in fear my pump may be comprised now. either way the six is sitting at the shop until i talk to kmd tomorrow.

What do you mean, Pin? And what do you mean, washer?

Do you mean the piston and the retaining button?

Did you remember to put the cam follower back in before installing the pump? It's the round metal cup that fits into the housing bolted onto the head, that the FP bolts to..


Sent from my iPhone using lame ass Tapatalk

[bcmurphy87]

I didn't do the install. Ill ask about the cam follower tomorrow. Yes i guess i do mean piston and button. Ill go up there and get pictures also tomorrow.


Just watched the video and looked over a few how to's. none of them said anything about the cam follower

[hnda etr]

Originally Posted by bcmurphy87 I didn't do the install. Ill ask about the cam follower tomorrow. Yes i guess i do mean piston and button. Ill go up there and get pictures also tomorrow. Just watched the video and looked over a few how to's. none of them said anything about the cam follower

The cam follower doesn't usually come out when removing the fuel pump, but you never know and maybe the shop took it out?

Check out this thread for more information on the follower: http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...failres-60369/

There have been others who've forgotten to put the follower back in (and he had to pull his newly rebuilt motor and have it cleaned and rebuilt again)

[bcmurphy87]

I called KMd we are starting the return process, called the shop and left a vm for the guy to check for a cam follower. ill keep it updated, but for now im headed to atl to see the peach drop and start pregaming in a dodge van i rented from enterprise lol.

Told my friends i was picking them up in the sliver bullet, forgot to tell them its not the 6 lol

[rodrigo]

fuel pump failures are normal..i have one friend that went through 3 b4 he got a set that worked.... % of failure is like 10% or w/e...just gotta keep putting em on until u get a set that works....

pretty fucken epic though

[bcmurphy87]

all i can say for now is thank god for mechanical insurance........

Now to the hard question...... my motor is being covered and they are offering a new complete motor from mazda. I want to take the new motor and run, but the other half thinks i should buy a used motor and put internals into it. Im really looking for some solid advice on this. I have a few days to make this decision. nothing would be better than a no mileage motor, but at teh same time whats it worth if its not going to hold my zoom zoom

[DSIT995]

You sir have some damn good insurance to cover a modified engine......

Thats a very hard question indeed, I would take the new engine, port ur ATP 3071, get a "proper tune", install the FP!!, run 18psi and call it a day!

[bcmurphy87]

yea im thinking the new motor would be really nice.

[bcmurphy87]

Well i decided to go ahead and build the motor after talking to mazda and there being over a month delay for a new motor.

Just ordered the following:
weisco pistons
k1 rods
gasket kit
oem thrust washer
main bearings
rod bearings
arp main studs
arp head studs
crank pulley bolt
anything i could be missing? im still on the fence about going ewg just because of the loud noise

[hnda etr]

Originally Posted by bcmurphy87 Well i decided to go ahead and build the motor after talking to mazda and there being over a month delay for a new motor. Just ordered the following: weisco pistons k1 rods gasket kit oem thrust washer main bearings rod bearings arp main studs arp head studs crank pulley bolt anything i could be missing? im still on the fence about going ewg just because of the loud noise

EWG is only loud if you don't recirculate the exhaust back into the downpipe..

did you get a block already then?

[bcmurphy87]

no block yet, you lose hp if you recirc it and your exhaust isnt large enough

[wankular]

I would take the free one. You say it's going to take a month but I've seen people's builds take waaaayyyy over a month. If you blow the new one, then build.

[DSIT995]

Why dont u tell them u want it, then also build..... so u have a spare or the money can be used to finance the "built" engine

or u could give it to me?? jk

[spiker98]

Wow, good luck with the build.

[hnda etr]

Originally Posted by bcmurphy87 no block yet, you lose hp if you recirc it and your exhaust isnt large enough

If you have a 3" exhaust, the recirc shouldn't hurt it... IMO, if you're not looking to hit more than 425-450 whp, the recirc'd EWG shouldn't be a problem...

[wankular]

Originally Posted by DSIT995 Why dont u tell them u want it, then also build..... so u have a spare or the money can be used to finance the "built" engine

Yeah, either way get the free one.