3071r build

[802MS3]

So finally starting to make moves and picked up a 3071r CHRA/compressor housing from a well-known subaru shop. The owner purchased a 3071 last year with the intention of machining the compressor housing to create some sort of a restrictor, but never got around to it. I was up there buying some rbf600 fluid since he is the only guy in town that sells motul, and we were talking shop when I jokingly asked if he had a standard 3071 he wanted to get rid of. I told him I wanted to buy it if the price is right, and he said he needed to check how much he paid. He ended up selling it to me for $765+tax, which was pretty much a steal. I then picked up a ATP Mazda hotside from @uncorked11 to complete the setup, and had the subie shop port out the wastegate a bunch so I don't get any of the dreaded creep that is so prevalent with this setup.

The IWG spring is TBD, hopefully will get to testing that this week. It feels like its kind of low.

So far with the turbo, compressor housing, and porting of the hotside, I've roughly dropped $1000 on this before the extra parts (oil/water lines and fittings, new intake, etc). Using stock ex-mani for now.


Oil Lines
Stock oil feed with low profile banjo bolt from ATP ($14.95)
TBD if I need to grind one of the hotside bolts down for the stock banjo clearance.
Banjo Bolt for Low Profile oil inlet - GT BB Turbos : atpturbo.com

Oil drain stuff from http://racepartsolutions.com
2ft Fragola series 8000 -10AN pushlock hose - $10.42 ($5.21 x 2)
-10AN Straight hose end - $5.21
-10AN 45° hose end - $24.12
2x -10AN hose clamps - $3.50 ($1.75 x 2)

and this stuff from treadstone ($10 cheaper for the flanges than ATP and no gasket needed)
2x -10AN Treadstone Garrett return flange $39.90 ($19.95 x 2) EFR & Garrett GT Oil Drain Return Flange, -10AN- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE


Water Lines
2x 3/8" banjo w/bolt $33.90 ($16.95 x 2) - Banjo 14mm Water Feed Fitting 3/8" Barb- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE
coolant hose from Verocious Motorsports @ 2.06/ft (6ft) - http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...ld-by-the-Foot


Misc
I need this CHRA clamp kit in order to bolt the turbine housing to the CHRA ($18.00) -
Turbine Housing Clamp and Bolt Kit : atpturbo.com

Studs/nuts from ATP
10mm (1.5 pitch) Nut Locking Head $1.05 x 10 ($10.50)
10mm (1.5 pitch) Stud $1.05 x 10 ($10.50)

Already have a ported mani with VTCS-delete on from @NJSPEED3. Though I need to dremel out my PTP TIG to match the stock gasket, so I will snap some pics of the porting when I do that. Definitely hit him up if you need one ported. Good guy for sure, I just bought a used IM, and asked the seller to ship it directly to Gerry. Everything worked out great and I was able to pick it up from him as I was rolling through his town on my way back from a road trip

Went with a new JBR 3.5" WP intake, along with HTP's new slim battery tray.

Also picking up a Guardian Angel soon as well @Lex

Initial boost control will be with the MBC until I learn some more about load tuning with the AP.

Pics

Turbine inlet/beginning of wastegate path






WG exit






More









Install Pics:

Modified wg arm (small section welded in to extend it)



JBR 3.5" Intake




We had to cut part of the divorced wg separator. Turns out the ATP hotside is not as deep as the stock K04 hotside. Thank you air saw...



Oil/water Line routing

[mazdamx3freak]

looks good so far. and great deal on the turbo. I wouldnt have pasted that deal up either.

[802MS3]

posted some shit to look at

[Lex]

Awesome looking smooth flow through that wastegate. If you get that boost creep under control from the get go tuning will be a joy! With boost under control going with a EBCS will eventually be better than MBC.

[cld12pk2go]

Turbine housing porting looks great. No creep for you.

On the water lines, be aware that the engine side connectors are actually 5/16'' not 3/8'' so plan accordingly.

[NJSPEED3]

I thought the compressor housings were 60 a/r. What size is the inlet?

[802MS3]

Originally Posted by NJSPEED3 I thought the compressor housings were 60 a/r. What size is the inlet?

The standard 3071 compressor housing that ATP sells is with 2.75" inlet and 2" outlet.

Specs at the bottom of this page

GT3071R-WG Dual BB, 64AR, 84 Trim Turbine, Ball Bearing Turbo : atpturbo.com

Compressor -Wheel: 71mm w/ 56 trim -Housing: .50 a/r -Maps: Not Available -Inlet: 2.75"

[NJSPEED3]

Yah i was referring to the compressor housing. Im sure you'll make some good power with that thing.

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[802MS3]

I'm basically shooting for lenny's setup that he had last year, im thinking 20psi max but no meth

[uncorked11]

That hotside port job looks great.

[86AmishMs3]

On the oil drain flanges...the bottom...there is a ring milled out and then an o-ring slipped in. Much better leak protection then paper flat gasket that ATP uses. And easier to install.

Also the bolt that gets close to the oil inlet is not on the compressor it's on the turbine side. A low pro banjo bolt helps...but when you order the turbine to chra connecting kit...talk to ATP about making sure one of the bolts is low-profile. Otherwise I would highly suggest grinding it down prior to install. I don't think there is really any way to clock the turbo so that the two bolts are not so close together.

[802MS3]

@doubleflusher question about your coolant lines - saw in your BT parts FS thread that you said you just ended up going with the banjo/barbed fittings from ATP, but used 5/16" hose to match the factory in/out. Did you just force the 5/16" hose over the 3/8" barb?

[doubleflusher]

This is the hose I used.

It's a 4 ply beast of a hose.

It fit quite well actually with minimal forcing.

[802MS3]

Originally Posted by doubleflusher This is the hose I used. It's a 4 ply beast of a hose. It fit quite well actually with minimal forcing.

dis hose? Reinforced Silicone Coolant Hose 8mm (5/16") ID

[doubleflusher]

Originally Posted by 802MS3 dis hose? Reinforced Silicone Coolant Hose 8mm (5/16") ID

Yah.

Forgetful man forgets link.

[802MS3]

k so I just ordered the oil drain stuff and the bolts/banjo for the water in/out. now I just need the water hose, the chra clamp kit and the banjo bolt for the oil inlet.

This stuff from http://racepartsolutions.com
2ft Fragola series 8000 -10AN pushlock hose - $10.42 ($5.21 x 2)
-10AN Straight hose end - $5.21
-10AN 45° hose end - $24.12
2x -10AN hose clamps - $3.50 ($1.75 x 2)

and this stuff from treadstone:
2x -10AN Treadstone Garrett return flange $39.90 ($19.95 x 2)
2x 3/8" banjo w/bolt $33.90 ($16.95 x 2)

[NJSPEED3]

Originally Posted by 802MS3 k so I just ordered the oil drain stuff and the bolts/banjo for the water in/out. now I just need the water hose, the chra clamp kit and the banjo bolt for the oil inlet. This stuff from http://racepartsolutions.com 2ft Fragola series 8000 -10AN pushlock hose - $10.42 ($5.21 x 2) -10AN Straight hose end - $5.21 -10AN 45° hose end - $24.12 2x -10AN hose clamps - $3.50 ($1.75 x 2) and this stuff from treadstone: 2x -10AN Treadstone Garrett return flange $39.90 ($19.95 x 2) 2x 3/8" banjo w/bolt $33.90 ($16.95 x 2)

You can drive up to a hydraulic supply and pick up all this shit for way less and no shipping. I been trying to tell people for years, but i guess they like burning money. Think about all the hydraulic contruction equipment out there. Their fitting see way higher pressure than any automotive oil or water pump will put out. Yes the shit isnt pretty in read and blue, but its quality shit. Just my 2 cents.

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[802MS3]

well god damn it gerry, shoulda said that shit earlier lol. clearly I was not trying to burn money with this build..

oh and the gtx3071 does have the .60a/r compressor housing, so thats prob what you were thinking of earlier.

[NJSPEED3]

My bad I thought Tim would of mentioned it. Yah almost all gt and gtx series come with a 60 a/r thats why I was asking about the 50 trim u have. I'm guessing they only sell a 60 trim with the 4" inlet. The 50 might be for the 2.75" that you have. That shit doesn't make much difference anyway.

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[802MS3]

ok finally got most of the parts to make this work, and bolted the turbo together to check stuff out and hook up the wg.

and I can see why uncorked was creeping to 30psi with this thing...the fuckin wastegate arm needs to be stretched to fit on the flapper, and after that it can only open like half an inch. It seems the male screw part on the actuator is just too short. just isn't going to work. fuck...thoughts anyone?





cld12pk2go's wastegate in comparison...



damn you atp, why no consistency?

[Lex]

Can you move the bracket holding the actuator to the compressor housing "up" the housing by redrilling the two bolt holes and thus making it a closer reach for the arm?

Alternatively you can cut and reweld that arm.

[86AmishMs3]

Originally Posted by Lex Can you move the bracket holding the actuator to the compressor housing "up" the housing by redrilling the two bolt holes and thus making it a closer reach for the arm? Alternatively you can cut and reweld that arm.

If he does that he might run into fitment issues...possible but you need to check that. There is a hard coolant line that runs right next to the wastegate can.

BTW I had the same can as 12cldpk. The one with the shaped actuating rod coming out of the can. Also ATP IWG is fail. It took me a while to get mine to work properly and was a lot of headache. But now everything is just gravy. I didn't want the EWG scream. and wanted to keep it quieter.

Also I had to use around 20psi of shop air to get mine to stretch on after I cut it down a lot (preload was extremely low and the flapper was half open at cruise) I couldn't force it on with brute strength. You want it to stretch a little bit.

[802MS3]

Originally Posted by Lex Can you move the bracket holding the actuator to the compressor housing "up" the housing by redrilling the two bolt holes and thus making it a closer reach for the arm? Alternatively you can cut and reweld that arm.

moving the actual bracket bolted to the compressor housing, or just moving the actuator? might be able to widen the holes in the compressor bracket, but the actuator is actually welded to the bracket, so moving that would be a bitch. totally different from cld12pk2go's, and this bracket, actuator, arm, hotside is all off another gtx3071. the actuator arms seem to be completely different, his is bent way more than the one I have.

Originally Posted by 86azms3 If he does that he might run into fitment issues...possible but you need to check that. There is a hard coolant line that runs right next to the wastegate can. BTW I had the same can as 12cldpk. The one with the shaped actuating rod coming out of the can. Also ATP IWG is fail. It took me a while to get mine to work properly and was a lot of headache. But now everything is just gravy. I didn't want the EWG scream. and wanted to keep it quieter. Also I had to use around 20psi of shop air to get mine to stretch on after I cut it down a lot (preload was extremely low and the flapper was half open at cruise) I couldn't force it on with brute strength. You want it to stretch a little bit.

I can get it on, but there is really not much movement after that. I feel like it really needs to be longer, or its not going to be able to get much exhaust out of the wastegate. hmm.

[Lex]

You could get an EWG and route it back into the exhaust downstream.

And I meant the bracket that bolts to the compressor housing. Widen those bolt holes or make new ones to relocate it if it's going to fit with everything else.

[802MS3]

ha not after I bought this hotside and had it ported out. I'll find a way to make this work.

[rfinkle2]

Would this do the trick? *Edit- below is for forcing the wastegate shut and EWG. Reading fail.

Adjustable IWG Bracket - Short

I'm in the middle of getting all of the lines together myself.

Edit: NVMD. Had the wrong idea as to your build.

[802MS3]

yea thats apparently for keeping it closed. we need a pretty custom arm for the atp setup with the way the hotside is shaped.

just fyi for anyone interested about the coolant lines, I'm going to use the banjos from treadstone Banjo 14mm Water Feed Fitting 3/8" Barb- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE and this coolant hose in 5/16" from Verocious Silicone Heater Hose: 1 Ply Silicone Radiator Hose Sold By the Foot to match the stock connections. The 5/16" should have no problem fitting over the 3/8" banjo, but we'll see. The hose is pretty cheap at about $2/ft.

[86AmishMs3]

Originally Posted by 802MS3 ha not after I bought this hotside and had it ported out. I'll find a way to make this work.

You'll get it to work...just takes....work

[rfinkle2]

Found these on the Garrett accessory page...
(Garrett adjustable wga bracket)

Products | Turbochargers

[802MS3]

yeah thats interesting. that could help. though too bad my actuator is welded on! wtf ATP...

I think I'm just gonna take it to get an extension welded on. I was also looking at pics of lenny's old 3071 thread, and his wg seems to be pretty different as well. check it out:

[rfinkle2]

Definitely different. lol. I guess they are still in the redesign process.

[802MS3]

took turbo to have the wg arm fixed. will be done tomorrow.

JBR 3.5" intake and siliconeintakes.com order should both be here by friday. install is a go for this weekend.

[NJSPEED3]

What is the fix? Custom arm?

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[802MS3]

the arm just needs to have a small section welded on to extend it an inch or so. then the arm can actually be preloaded, with the wg flapper being able to open fully.

[NJSPEED3]

you sound like you've done this a million times. Good work keeping your op so well organized!!

[802MS3]

I need to add everything up. probably will end up being the same price as just buying the kit from atp.

was a good learning experience though lol

[802MS3]

started friday night, worked until about 1, then started again sat at 11AM and finished around 4.

this ported wg flows too well lol. defnitely no creep, but can only spike to about 15psi, and it drops to 12psi by redline. MBC is currently maxed

Its definitely only the 7psi spring in the actuator. will try more preloading. probably going to have to drop another $100 on a stiffer actuator.

[802MS3]

added more pics to OP

[spnkr21]

If I was you I'd put heat sleeves on all your coolant lines. After awhile the heat bakes the lines and they get really hard and brittle. Too bad I saw this thread after you got fluids flowing lol. But, it's def a must that will save headache down the road.

[mayer]

I also got the 7psi one and it was welded just like yours, which it just stupid. ATP had to send a new actuator complete with bracket and all. I think a new one complete with bracket is like 140 bucks or something from ATP...

Edit: Checked and it's 145$...
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...Category_Code=