ATP GTX 3071 with EWG

[dollarsignbill]

It was a terribly cold and miserable winter in Minneapolis and nothing sucks more than working on a car in the winter, unless you have the luxury of a heated garage which i do not. My buddy Corey and I did all the parts at once which made the install much easier than if it would have been spread out over a couple of sessions.

Parts:
ATP GTX3071R bolt on kit
CP-e LRT Mani
CP-e Downpipe
CP-e BT inlet
Tial 44mm EWG
Grimspeed EBCS
Kozmic Motorsports 44mm dump tube
4" 1.75" flex joint
90 degree 1.75" pipe length
Cobb IWG block off bracket

Additional purchases from reading on installs:
5 ft of 1/8" silicone from ATP
5/8" high pressure silicone from ATP for oil drain mod
Clamps, cotter pin for IWG bracket (i thought the c clamp from ATP was too small)
couple extra 1/8" tees and connectors

I like to consider myself more mechanically inclined than the average person, but I am used to working on large NA V8's with carburetors and plenty of room to work. I buy and restore and sell american classics typically 64 and older so this was venturing into new territory. Worked from 8PM on friday till 2 AM to get everything out. Woke up at 11 and got back at it till about 10 (including breaks for forum searching, phone calling and driving to stores). Sunday was about 1:00 - 6:00 including cleaning everything up. SO yes it took me a long time.

I also like to think i did enough research on here and read through and printed off enough How to's, but i clearly missed some. I really wish i had found @ms3blackmica's post here: Billet k04 Comp wheel upgrade! before the install, but by the time i messaged him i already had fucked myself by putting everything together and ended up with two impossible to reach/turn nuts (pictured) that were rubbing up against the manifold.

I really did not want to have to take everything apart again so i tried to find a different fix. After a trip to ACE, Home Depot, and 2 trips to sears and spending about $100 on different types and sizes of 15mm wrenches i was about to give up. The guy at sears the second time said i might have luck at a bike shop. By this time it was 9:30 pm on saturday and most were closed.

Sunday at noon i stopped in a bike shop (which was 1 block away from the house i was doing the install at) and found a very slim 15mm "Cone wrench" that got me very excited. I was able to fit this under and in between the manifold bends perfectly and get the bolts tightened properly. At this point I thought everything was gravy.

The other curve ball i had to deal with was that the kit came from ATP with the "low profile" banjo bolt. When i put this through the stock banjo I got worried at how little thread there would be actually going into the compressor housing. I am kind of pissed that they didn't ship it with a bolt designed for the stock line, or at least mention that you are supposed to buy their low profile line for proper installation. Wouldn't be a problem if i could reuse the stock banjo bolt but the thread pattern is very different so that was not an option. I tried installing it without the crush washers because i thought this made the hole in the low profile banjo bolt line up most closely with the hole in the stock banjo bolt.

I started the car and lost about a quart of oil in 5 seconds and got worried that i forgot to plug something. Luckily it was all from the banjo bolt. I tried tightening further. This helped, but when i started it again it Jiz Shot oil straight up and splattered all over my hood. I knew i needed to do something different so i took the banjo bolt off and put one of the crush washers between the bolt and the banjo, but did not put one between the banjo and the housing (again worried about how little thread was going into the turbo). It was a total pain in the ass to get this to line up. I tried to find details on the Screw driver and paper in nut trick i saw in another thread but i couldn't figure that out. After about an hour of trying different things I got it together, started it and everything appears to be working properly.

Getting a dump tube fabricated right now @ TurboTim's in northeast Minneapolis and am getting it tuned on monday @ DB Performance Tuning in Rogers on Monday.

Definitely learned some things going through this and gained some confidence in working on newer cars. Only hiccups were the banjo bolt, and the manifold nuts, otherwise it went pretty smooth and everything fit as it was supposed to. Still trying to figure out how to write these posts with the HTML language etc so if this looks fucked up... i tried.

[ms3blackmica]

Looking good man!

[ihasmazda]

Look into a set of crow foot wrenches for those hard to reach mani/dp nuts, it saved my ass last week with a very similar issue.
I just picked these up, the local Sears matched the $30 price (on the shelf it was labeled $48)
Sears.com

[dollarsignbill]

Originally Posted by ihasmazda Look into a set of crow foot wrenches for those hard to reach mani/dp nuts, it saved my ass last week with a very similar issue. I just picked these up, the local Sears matched the $30 price (on the shelf it was labeled $48) Sears.com

Yea i actually did buy those for the $48. They were too fat though. I still couldn't reach them. Looks like i'll be returning those to sears. along with a couple of other 15 mm wrenches. Haha

[dollarsignbill]

Having some dump tube fabrication issues. Whoever designed the @CP-e's downpipe must not have been talking to whoever designed the exhaust manifold because it pretty much dumps right into the O2 sensor. I know you can twist the wastegate to aim back towards the engine, but with 44mm tubing it gets in the way pretty much regardless.

So i'm gonna get it tuned on monday with the wastegate just dumping into the air. Waiting for some additional tubing and another vband set so my local shop can fab up a dump tube that will work... even though it will have several twists and turns.

[2011speed]

How much was te turbo manifold ewg and block off bracket

[dollarsignbill]

Originally Posted by 2011speed How much was te turbo manifold ewg and block off bracket

Got the EWG and Block Off bracket on Black Friday from Edge. So whatever there listed price was - the 10% discounts they were running on black friday.

The manifold I got a deal on directly from CP-e because there stage2 clutch has been nothing but trouble for me since the install. The clutch didn't fit and was banging against a cast line on the bell housing. The mechanic charged me an extra 4 hrs of labor cause he had to pull it back apart and grind down the cast line to make it fit. CP-e wasnt gonna pitch in any $ for labor so they gave me credit towards parts.... which of course led me to spending way more money on parts.

[dollarsignbill]

I got my first professional tune last Monday at DB Performance tuning in Rodgers MN. It was pretty cool and I got some good videos of my car on the Dyno.

I had no idea what to expect for WHP on the dyno as I have never done it before. Looking around on the forum I was thinking to get 340 or something by looking at cars with similar modifications.

DB uses a Dyno Dynamics branded dyno and they said it consistently reads ~20% below what a dynojet brand would read. If you look at the attached pdf that's what the "shootout correction" graph is showing. So i was happy ending with 331 whp @ 18.5 PSI target boost.

We were targeting 21 at one point and I was able to get ~360 on that pull but I was getting consistent knock between 4800 RPM and 6000 RPM. I wish i had printed out some of the pages showing the knock because it was always in the same range on each pull. He dialed the timing back as much as he could and thats when he started to turn the boost back down. We ended with two good runs at 18.5 with consistent AFRs across the whole band.

My mechanic was surprised he couldn't tune that range out by adding more fuel, i'm not sure if that is even possible. I'm gonna ask the tuner.

Wondering if anyone has any other ideas on getting rid of detonation in that range. Besides switching to Corn.

[dollarsignbill]

Sixth pull 300 whp (~360 corrected) with backfire out of dump tube

Sixth pull 300 whp (~360 corrected) with backfire out of dump tube - YouTube

Sixth pull 300 whp (~360 corrected) with backfire out of dump tube - YouTube

Eighth pull 299 whp with knock clearly visible in the AFR chart at the end of the movie

YouTube

YouTube

[rodrigo]

fuck those 15mm turbo nuts from atp .... the added size is a pain in the ass and the fuckers wont spin on by hand like stock ones

good shit on your build

[2.0t03speed]

in case any one wants 14mm copper nuts =)

M10-1.5 Exhaust Lock Nut Copper Plated Steel 14mm Hex

[dollarsignbill]

Originally Posted by michael.fetner DUDE this same thing happened to me!! With the whole Losing oil from the Banjo bolt. Same turbo and everything, I tried to tighten it over and over and over. In the end I sent the turbo back because once I finally got it running the bolt was too tight and it stopped the oil from getting to the turbo so it basically wasn't spinning. I only drove this way for like a day before I realized this was not okay.. But I sent it in and they just sent it back fixed with a shorter banjo bolt... The need to include the shorter banjo bolt in all orders seeing you had a similar issue as well. Good setup ! I just finished tuning with this same setup from Lex - Stratified. Its so great. Your stoked.

My problem was that the banjo bolt was too short. I needed them to send one that was the same length as the stock one (pictured). I'm working with the guys at @EdgeAutosport to try to get ATP to send me the non "low profile" bolt. Apparently some of the stock banjo lines are thicker than other stock banjo lines so they don't always have the same problem i did. Would have been nice if the thread pattern was the same so i could have just reused the stock bolt.