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 Old 06-19-2016, 07:37 PM   #1
 
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Default Blackms3 goes bt!

Got my bnr s4 on monday and started removing stuff that night. Tuesday morning i got into removing the dp and mani studs and removing the egr and all the wonderful stuff that keeps the turbo in place and all the oil and coolant lines.

I must say the overall process is pretty straight forward but it is time consuming. I had did this install solo for 99% of it, i had my gf hold the turbo which i connected the support bracket to it. Once i got that done i started to put all the studs back in place. I had to loosing some of the ex. Mani studs to get the dp studs all lined up but after that i worked on all the coolant lines and oil drain and oil feed. One thing i would like to point out is that you should probably tighten the coolant line bolts b4 installing the turbo as without the right tools u may have to remove it just to tighten those down. Lucky for me i have flex head and other kool little toys. I also extended the heater hose as its a must for clearance even with my 3" intake.

I took the time once the turbo stuff was done to find and mount a new home for my cobb ebcs. Ill post a picture of its location as i think it worked out well. Also had to put the ecu on the fuse cover for now. Croksport has a nice solution but its pricey at $170.

First start up went well with no leaks at all. So its deff worth it to take ur time and make sure everything is done right. I wanna say this install took me a good 7 hours but again i was doing it solo in my garage and i like to be detailed about my work.

For those wondering rob finkle is tuning this beast as he has been my good friend and tuner for the past 2+ years @rfinkle2;

Any other questions feel free to ask. I will post results as they happen.

Mod list:
Htp 3" intake
Catless dp with catted test pipe(soon to be test pipe with res)+hks catback
3port cobb ebcs
Cobb fmic
Stock intake, mani stock ex.mani
1 step colder plugs
Bnr s4
At hpfp

I think thats about it for mods.

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 Old 06-19-2016, 07:46 PM   #2
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Have you considered getting smaller battery like a 51R battery so the ECU can fit inside the stock battery box.

sent from my Nexus 6P
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 Old 06-19-2016, 07:53 PM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by MS3Shadow View Post
Have you considered getting smaller battery like a 51R battery so the ECU can fit inside the stock battery box.

sent from my Nexus 6P


I dont like the 51r set up. I like c.s battery box but idk about paying $170 for it. I can make the ecu fit into the front of the battery box by cutting off the 4 tabs on the sides but then i would never be able to mount it again which i feel would be a bad move.

I also see i can fit it right in front of the battery box but it puts it so damn close to my maf wires i feel over time i may have some tub issue there. Any thoughts?

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 Old 06-19-2016, 08:03 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by blackms3_71 View Post
I dont like the 51r set up. I like c.s battery box but idk about paying $170 for it. I can make the ecu fit into the front of the battery box by cutting off the 4 tabs on the sides but then i would never be able to mount it again which i feel would be a bad move.

I also see i can fit it right in front of the battery box but it puts it so damn close to my maf wires i feel over time i may have some rub issue there. Any thoughts?
What concerns do you have with the 51R setup?
As i have around same CCA as my stock battery.

You could try to fit in the front, but make sure to protect your wires with electrical tape or something to protect it from rubbing

sent from my Nexus 6P
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 Old 06-19-2016, 08:12 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by MS3Shadow View Post
What concerns do you have with the 51R setup?
As i have around same CCA as my stock battery.

You could try to fit in the front, but make sure to protect your wires with electrical tape or something to protect it from rubbing

sent from my Nexus 6P


I have seen people on fb complain about reliability issues with it. And my battery is maybe a year old or so and is in good shape. I see no need to replace atm. Maybe when its time to replace it i may look at the 51r but then for another $50 i could get the c.s battery box so right back in the same boat.
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 Old 06-20-2016, 10:21 PM   #6
 
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I have virtually the same setup, but an HTP 3.5". My CS box did not fit and made everything look cramped. Ended up with the matching HTP 51r battery box and a new battery from O'Reilly Auto.

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 Old 06-21-2016, 05:44 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by blackms3_71 View Post
I have seen people on fb complain about reliability issues with it. And my battery is maybe a year old or so and is in good shape. I see no need to replace atm. Maybe when its time to replace it i may look at the 51r but then for another $50 i could get the c.s battery box so right back in the same boat.
Few people? I never had a issue with my battery. It's as reliable as the stock one. The CS would create less space since it uses the stock battery with the ECU in the front. And 51R battery setup would be opposite. You could even put the battery in the trunk like some people here.

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 Old 06-21-2016, 12:52 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by muffhugger View Post
I have virtually the same setup, but an HTP 3.5". My CS box did not fit and made everything look cramped. Ended up with the matching HTP 51r battery box and a new battery from O'Reilly Auto.



Do you think it would work out better with a 3" intake.
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 Old 06-21-2016, 01:08 PM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by blackms3_71 View Post
Do you think it would work out better with a 3" intake.
I personally wouldn't know because I didn't try to put the battery box in with my 3" setup. I would assume since the intake is smaller, it would have more clearance.


Put me as a +1 for the 51r. I was skeptical at first, but after the 2000 miles I've driven after the swap; I was convinced.
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 Old 06-21-2016, 05:53 PM   #10
 
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Logs or it didn't happen :-)
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 Old 06-22-2016, 10:17 AM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by MS3Shadow View Post
Few people? I never had a issue with my battery. It's as reliable as the stock one. The CS would create less space since it uses the stock battery with the ECU in the front. And 51R battery setup would be opposite. You could even put the battery in the trunk like some people here.

sent from my Nexus 6P


I think i just hate on the look more then anything. I like the stock box, just makes the bay look clean. I will most likely give in soon
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 Old 06-22-2016, 12:20 PM   #12
 
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I have HTP 3" with ECU in stock location. Very very tight fitment even with all little tricks. It's BNR S3 though.
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 Old 06-22-2016, 10:30 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by blackms3_71 View Post
I think i just hate on the look more then anything. I like the stock box, just makes the bay look clean. I will most likely give in soon
HTP 51r battery tray is the business.
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 Old 06-22-2016, 10:52 PM   #14
 
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If you don't really need a 3.5" you can get a silicone 3" ID intake which will be good for about 430-450bhp and will be a lot more flexible and can be squeezed in while keeping the factory battery box and ECU location.

For a FWD car the 400-450bhp is kind of the power limit for a good balance between power and what the chassis/suspension can handle.
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 Old 06-23-2016, 02:39 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
If you don't really need a 3.5" you can get a silicone 3" ID intake which will be good for about 430-450bhp and will be a lot more flexible and can be squeezed in while keeping the factory battery box and ECU location.

For a FWD car the 400-450bhp is kind of the power limit for a good balance between power and what the chassis/suspension can handle.
I have the 3' intake now and no way could I fit the ecu in stock location with the bnr s4.
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 Old 06-23-2016, 02:55 PM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by blackms3_71 View Post
I have the 3' intake now and no way could I fit the ecu in stock location with the bnr s4.
Damn, that intake is HUGE!
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 Old 06-23-2016, 06:54 PM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by blackms3_71 View Post
I have the 3' intake now and no way could I fit the ecu in stock location with the bnr s4.
The key word there was "silicone"
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 Old 06-23-2016, 09:07 PM   #18
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
The key word there was "silicone"


I reread it but i still dont see how the ecu can fit in the stock location. This turbo pushes everything to the driver side.
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 Old 06-23-2016, 10:41 PM   #19
 
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I have a 3" ID silicone intake plus an air box, everything else is in the stock location.
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 Old 06-24-2016, 11:14 PM   #20
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
I have a 3" ID silicone intake plus an air box, everything else is in the stock location.


Pics or it didnt happen
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 Old 06-24-2016, 11:30 PM   #21
 
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Here they are:

First Romanian BT MS3
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 Old 06-25-2016, 10:09 AM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
Here they are:

First Romanian BT MS3
I think bc you have the jbr intake which is silicone, that is way you have the extra wiggle room. also didn't see what turbo u are running. as you see in my pics its a really tight fit. I could maybe trim the coupler to the turbo down a inch but mehh.
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 Old 06-27-2016, 01:27 AM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by blackms3_71 View Post
I think bc you have the jbr intake which is silicone, that is way you have the extra wiggle room. also didn't see what turbo u are running. as you see in my pics its a really tight fit. I could maybe trim the coupler to the turbo down a inch but mehh.
Exactly,... that is why I suggested a silicone 3" ID intake.
The turbo I run is a GTX3071R, all my mods are in the signature (I think if you're browsing from your phone the signature is not displayed though).
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Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator.
StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI

2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual
SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP
GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake
TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars
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 Old 06-28-2016, 11:17 AM   #24
 
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well I got the c.s box for a good deal, so I will see if I can get it to fit.
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 Old 06-28-2016, 02:36 PM   #25
 
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Originally Posted by blackms3_71 View Post
well I got the c.s box for a good deal, so I will see if I can get it to fit.
Wow! Good!
You may need to fabricate a bracket or two but other than that it should be a very good addition to your mod list.
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Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator.
StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI

2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual
SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP
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TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars
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 Old 06-28-2016, 02:50 PM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
Wow! Good!
You may need to fabricate a bracket or two but other than that it should be a very good addition to your mod list.
yea I have a feeling I will need to trim a piece or two or elongate the holes. we will see. should be too hard. if it doesn't fit after that ill just sell it for what I paid, someone would deff buy it quick for that price.
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