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__________________ 2007 Mazdaspeed3 GT | |
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__________________ All good things must come to an end... | |
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__________________ (PD tuned) 397hp/358tq 91/100% meth BNR S4, XS v3 manifold, CNT dp, OBX cbe, JBR ebcs, AUTOTECH hpfp, PnP/vtcs del. manifold, SU TMIC, HTP 3.5" intake, Synapse DV, D10 100% meth kit, Damond OCC VTA, AFR failsafe, Bilstein b8's/Cobb springs, stuff |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Old thread bump, but what intake did you run? RPM's website says the s3 inlet is 2.36 while the k04 is 2.16. Will I be able to stretch a silicone JBR intake for the k04 onto the s3? |
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![]() | | #125 | ![]() |
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__________________ 2006 Mazdaspeed6 EFR 7163|FMIC|South Bend|FCM coilovers|Powerbrake BBK|RPF1 18x10.5|Nitto NT01 stripped|caged|freektuned 2017 Subaru BRZ MCS TT1 coilovers|Brembo BBK|6UL 17x9|RE-71R|ACE 350|flex fuel|Delicious tuned |
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![]() | | #126 | ![]() |
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I dont care about the $200 price difference between stage 3 and 4 and I dont plan to rebuild the motor. I need a reliable DD and I need a replacement on my leaking ko4 with 113k miles on it, and soon. | |
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![]() | | #127 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Not sure where the cs spoils at but the s4 spoils at 3500. You will get better response with s3 and if you arent going to build block can get close to maxing block out with s3 and better response. Just something to think about Sent from my SM-N930P using Tapatalk
__________________ UR TBE/JBR RMM/UNKNOWN HPFP INTERNALS/COBB V2 AP/CS SRI + TIH/CXRACING FMIC |
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![]() | | #128 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Its tough to make these decisions without the benefit of driving cars with the different turbos. Someone claims the CS creeps boost very easily. Who knows!? |
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![]() | | #129 | ![]() |
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__________________ UR TBE/JBR RMM/UNKNOWN HPFP INTERNALS/COBB V2 AP/CS SRI + TIH/CXRACING FMIC |
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![]() | | #130 | ![]() |
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Sometimes I wonder if its even worth it...its just gonna spin tires in 1st and 2nd, then Im gonna need high-vibration motor mounts, then the clutch is gonna take a shit, then injectors will leak. But I digress.... EDGE Autosports, please make a RWD conversion kit! | |
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| Neutral : +1 score If everything is stock except for the HPFP and CAI (so not even exhaust) then I'd go for the S3 because it will have more grunt down low. Of course you need to carefully tune the response and load up to 3500rpm but that's another story. Without an exhaust you will push back a lot of heat into the turbine wheel and not that you will not make the expected power but you may also damage it prematurely. As for the CS and S4 turbos they flow more up top while sacrificing about 200-300rpm in the low 3000rpm range which is still beneficial because it will not have the rod snapping response there and will be able to push more air above 6000rpm without adding flames so it. The response around 2500-3000rpm area with these slightly larger turbos it's definitely something you'll have to get in use to or learn, because they will have at least one more second of delay compared to the S3 and more compared to the factory turbo.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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![]() | | #133 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Never driven s3. But even with the k04 and my mods the car was pretty useless in 1st and 2nd. Sent from my SM-N930P using Tapatalk
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| Not Ranked : 0 score 1st and 2nd will be less useful in a K04 car than in a BT car, your logic is backwards..
__________________ Speed 6 Gone for 3+ years and still not happy about it 2007 Speed 3. JBR 3" WP. AP. Autotechs. Full Maize. CP-E Stage 2 RMM, Rubber Filled OEM TMM, Nator'd TP, Moog's and DM SSP Enki - "High mixes of corn = all the wastegate all the time for great justice." |
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![]() | | #136 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score That was more directed at @Lex2007; A K04 car tuned with bolt ons etc is more likely to spin 1st-2nd than an S3, S4, etc. The faster the spool, the faster the tires will break loose.
__________________ Speed 6 Gone for 3+ years and still not happy about it 2007 Speed 3. JBR 3" WP. AP. Autotechs. Full Maize. CP-E Stage 2 RMM, Rubber Filled OEM TMM, Nator'd TP, Moog's and DM SSP Enki - "High mixes of corn = all the wastegate all the time for great justice." |
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![]() | | #137 | ![]() |
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![]() It's about torque, not spool. If there is sufficient wheel torque to overcome available grip, she'll spin. You spin more in 1st and 2nd because gearing gives you more torque at the wheels. For example, a turbo like an S4 may spin you all the way through 2nd where a k04 will spin you up to 4krpm because the S4 can maintain torque up the revs.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Sigh, so being at work and not wanting to go into a lengthy post, yes I said spool. You are correct it is "torque" not "spool". The quicker spool of the K04 brings on more low end torque, at a faster rate than say an S4 will. This is more likely to break the tires loose in 1st and 2nd in terms of regular driving, part throttle, half throttle situations that would likely not happen wither a larger turbo. I'm not talking who will spin them in 3rd and 4th on the highway. My case is that his argument of "..its just gonna spin tires in 1st and 2nd" as an argument against going BT makes no sense. A slower spooling turbo will help you modulate wheelspin better than one that is at 20psi at 3k before you blink.
__________________ Speed 6 Gone for 3+ years and still not happy about it 2007 Speed 3. JBR 3" WP. AP. Autotechs. Full Maize. CP-E Stage 2 RMM, Rubber Filled OEM TMM, Nator'd TP, Moog's and DM SSP Enki - "High mixes of corn = all the wastegate all the time for great justice." |
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| Neutral : +1 score ...or you can just not drive like a gorilla and modulate the throttle instead of just flooring it and spinning your tires. Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
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Your argument is modulation, not turbo related. "The torque comes faster." However, you could always turn a k04 down if you really wanted to. I don't have FWD problems, but my load is mapped linearly to APP to allow me better modulation. This is tuneable via throttle, wastegate, whatever. Having a bigger turbo would mean you would have to WG even more, or trim even more of it's capability. To say a bigger turbo capable of more torque will be better for wheelspin is nonsensical. More torque is more likely to spin. Period. Now to unsub before I get driven nuts again.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The smaller the turbo the greater the torque at low RPM and the quicker the spool. That exactly is the recipe for wheel spin. With a GTX3071 (which spools like a CS or S4, but is slightly more potent up top) on pump gas I was able to floor it in 2nd and not need a new pair of tires in the front next morning. WOT in 2nd in a slightly tuned K04 equals wheel spin. With the K04 I only added a TMIC and an intake without even a tune (yeah, I was stupid back then) and every WOT event in 1st and 2nd was a smoke show.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I've learned to feather the pedal in 1st and 2nd for part boost that helps me keep traction and push me into my seat. Spinning tires is boring unless I'm under an overpass and want to be obnoxious.
__________________ 3rd rebuild on the way...maybe... |
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Edit.. sorry if the last line sounds like I'm selling on an infomercial lol.. In all honesty I have experienced tunes by two well known tuners(for the S4). Tuner A is like a magician and every revision has been great with throttle/turbo response I prefer. Tuner B, well, let's just say I've had good revisions to something that was super hyper ninja shit.. which I hated and made drivability garbage. At the end he just wasn't as polished of a tuner as people think he is. The reason for 2 tuners is cause tuner A is very busy and slow with kicking out revisions...got impatient and went to tuner B.. Now I'm back with tuner A, he is worth the wait. Moral of the story. Choose a good tuner!
__________________ *COBB: AP, shifter weight *BITWISE: Harness, 3bar BNR: S3v2 *CP-e: Stage 2 RMM ,TMIC *JBR: RSB, EGR delete, WP *GRIMMSPEED: EBCS *TWM: Full Shifter *KDM: HPFP internals *DENSO:ITV22 *FORD: syn trans fluid *OBX: TBE *BILSTEIN: B8 Sport *SWIFT: Spec-R springs *GTSPEC: 4point ladder brace, rear subframe brace *NITTO: NT-05 * Whiteline: BSK *MOOG: F/R endlinks* SPC: Adj. camber arms *MORIMOTO: 5K HID elite Last edited by specvspeedfreak; 10-15-2016 at 01:03 PM. | |
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![]() | | #144 | ![]() |
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__________________ COBB ACCESSPORT//TURBOXS CATLESS DP+RACEPIPE//3 BAR MAP//3.5" HTP INTAKE//NGK 1 STEP COLDER PLUGS//HKS CATBACK//AUTOTECH INTERNALS//COBB FMIC V2.0//HKS BOV BLACK EDITION IN VTA//RPF1 17x9//pilot super sport 245/45/17//ACT 6 PUCK//M.D OCC VTA//TOKAY SEALS//BNR S4//Hypnotic tuned |
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![]() | | #145 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks for not asking ... but no, it aint Justin. I have used justin with the K04 so has my brother with his ST.. no complaints here
__________________ *COBB: AP, shifter weight *BITWISE: Harness, 3bar BNR: S3v2 *CP-e: Stage 2 RMM ,TMIC *JBR: RSB, EGR delete, WP *GRIMMSPEED: EBCS *TWM: Full Shifter *KDM: HPFP internals *DENSO:ITV22 *FORD: syn trans fluid *OBX: TBE *BILSTEIN: B8 Sport *SWIFT: Spec-R springs *GTSPEC: 4point ladder brace, rear subframe brace *NITTO: NT-05 * Whiteline: BSK *MOOG: F/R endlinks* SPC: Adj. camber arms *MORIMOTO: 5K HID elite Last edited by specvspeedfreak; 10-15-2016 at 03:57 PM. |
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It's not jumping around. It's specific to a K04 vs a larger turbo in 1st-2nd gear only. Your argument was that its gearing that causes the wheelspin in 1st and 2nd. By that logic removing any/all turbo from our car and driving it NA, or having the K04, or having a GT70 frame turbo would all be the same? You can't typically achieve full boost even on a K04 in 1st and 2nd gear let alone an S3, S4 or larger.
__________________ Speed 6 Gone for 3+ years and still not happy about it 2007 Speed 3. JBR 3" WP. AP. Autotechs. Full Maize. CP-E Stage 2 RMM, Rubber Filled OEM TMM, Nator'd TP, Moog's and DM SSP Enki - "High mixes of corn = all the wastegate all the time for great justice." | |
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__________________ - 2009 Speed 3 - Clocked BNR S4 v2 - Corksport 3.5" Intake - Cobb 3 Port Bcs - Cobb AP V2 - Guardian Angel V3 - Tr8 Fmic w/ Jbr Under Route Piping - Jbr Raiders Air Damn w/ Custom Radiator Side Ducting - Cpe Catless Dp - Cnt Catback - Cobb Xle Bpv - Corksport IM - Full Race EM - Cobb Shift Knob - Autotech Internals - Corksport HP Fuel Line - Gen 2 VC w/ Sp63 Oil Breather Cap - DM PCV Plate w/ Dual Vented Catch Cans - Jbr 88a Rmm - 88a Tmm - 80a Pmm - Corksport Injector Seals - Ngk 1 Step colder Plugs - Koni Yellow Shocks - Eibach Springs - 94 Octane w/ 3 Gallons of In Tank Methanol - Sp63 6th Port Kit (tune in progress) | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Not sure... I would call them.. I don't think there is a "concern" .. well at least for me; even needing more preload isn't a concern since it can be specific to setup and really the opposite of harmful.
__________________ *COBB: AP, shifter weight *BITWISE: Harness, 3bar BNR: S3v2 *CP-e: Stage 2 RMM ,TMIC *JBR: RSB, EGR delete, WP *GRIMMSPEED: EBCS *TWM: Full Shifter *KDM: HPFP internals *DENSO:ITV22 *FORD: syn trans fluid *OBX: TBE *BILSTEIN: B8 Sport *SWIFT: Spec-R springs *GTSPEC: 4point ladder brace, rear subframe brace *NITTO: NT-05 * Whiteline: BSK *MOOG: F/R endlinks* SPC: Adj. camber arms *MORIMOTO: 5K HID elite |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to specvspeedfreak For This Useful Post: | BuddySpeed3 (10-18-2016) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Read all 4 dang pages of this thread and still undecided about bnr s3 or s4. I like the earlier spool with more punch like the k04. But am i missing out on the s4 power band When does s4 spool, i’ve seen 3100 and 3500 in this same thread. Compared to what rpm for K04 and S3? Thanks 06 ms6, sp63 stage 1, bnr, atp downpipe, cpe tmic, 91 octane Read some good intel on bnr’s site. S3 for my build Quote from their site: If your car is fully bolted with high performance fuel pump internals we suggest an S3 with a tune. Fully bolted with added methanol injection go with the S4 and a tune. Stock engine internals, don’t even think about doing an S5 or S6! Last edited by Whitebullet; 12-24-2018 at 06:29 AM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Researched b/w CS, S3 and S4 for a year. Went with an S4 and so glad that I did. I got data logs from the pulls that I am doing right now for the E-tune on this thread, so use that to see if spool characteristics is what you are looking for. I got cats and a TMIC. Coffees genpu going BNRS4 and stuffs. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Coffeespeed For This Useful Post: | Whitebullet (12-23-2018) |
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