BNR S3 Swap How To

[bmylez]

Why racecar?

BECAUSE ZIGGO

[Ziggo]

Manifold as described.

[Navy_Mech2]

that sucks...but at least its not flaking off.

[zenger]

Dyno numbers soon or satisfied?

[Ziggo]

Not really satisfied, but undecided about the dyno. I am still going to be making big changes so I don't want to spend the $$ to really dial it in as is.

I need a new clutch, and at a minimum need to install my 3bar map, and injector seals before dialing in my tune. I would like to also get a meth injection system installed, a new intake manifold and clean up my valves before I really try to max out the performance.


Zigatapatalka

[ESB Jiu JItsu]

sub'd for future WIN! thank you! I bet this setup is amazing! bnr stage 3 ia on my list....its just a long list.

[racingred]

Nice write Ziggo....I hope to be following this one day....Any subtle differences in drivability that you notice thus far over the K04?

[Ziggo]

Not really, it doesn't spool as fast as the k04, it's just a gnats ass slower and drivability is just fine. It won't spool if you floor it at 2k rpm but that's not a minus in my book. My wife bitches about it, says it feels slower than the stock turbo, but thats because she refuses to downshift cause "it makes the engine make too much noise."


Zigatapatalka

[racingred]

Apparently with a little more funds you can get other turbos but this is the one I have my eyes set on...Big turbo but keeping stock location, manifold, my stock appearance, etc. seems to peak my interest.

[Dahouse702]

Great write up.

[cld12pk2go]

Awesome write up.

Love this turbo...

[Ziggo]

I will grab a picture of it later. Its sticking out of the manifold directly towards the firewall so I had to cut a slit for it in that heatshield.

As for where I would do it with another shot, I would have it stick out at an angle between where it is, and straight out the turbine side. Straight out the turbine side would be best, but the #4 runner makes that weld difficult to access.

Zigatapatalka

[Ziggo]

Here is a picture of it, you can see how I had to cut a slit in my heatshield so the sensor will have room to move with the engine. If you were to move it towards the 02 sensor more you could avoid this.



You can see the uninstalled bung location in this picture:


Looking at it, the best EGT Bung location is pointing straight towards the compressor side of the turbo. I was worried about spacing to the compressor housing outlet (I didn't have my turbo yet when I specified the bung location) so I didn't put it over there, but there is plenty of room.

[cld12pk2go]

What EGT's are you seeing?

[Ziggo]

@22psi, redline, 8* timing and 11.3 AFR I was seeing 1750, at 20.5psi, 10.5* timing it's more like 1700.

E85/Meth is in my future, from my tuning thread you can see BATs are getting out of hand, causing knock on the top end. I may have a leaky BPV though.


Zigatapatalka

[cld12pk2go]

I have added ~6° over the past couple of months. It is a shame I don't have EGT data to note the impact.

[Domino81]

Good work and thanks for the write up. :tup:

[forcedinduktion]

das turbo

[driver311]

Give us some updates chief. Logs, VD, etc etc

[Ziggo]

Originally Posted by driver311 Give us some updates chief. Logs, VD, etc etc

As you saw I have not updated this thread or the tuning one recently. I found that premium gas was not up to snuff @ 22psi so I have been using a 3/9 mix of ethanol. I will post logs in the tuning thread, but leave this here. Initial torque "bulge" was due to a slight downhill at the start of the log. Tuned using load with a 22psi boot (cap) that results in a flat 400wtq curve. You can see it spools slightly before 3000RPM and between the extra timing from ethanol, and the VVT changes I made, throttle is VERY responsive.

[rfinkle2]

IMO, with the positive results that e-85 is getting, and the creep issues (and necessary adjustments *ahem*) of the gtx3071, this is an all around great option.

Thanks again for the thread Ziggo.

[Ziggo]

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 IMO, with the positive results that e-85 is getting, and the creep issues (and necessary adjustments *ahem*) of the gtx3071, this is an all around great option. Thanks again for the thread Ziggo.

GTX3071 is a great turbo. But is "bolt-on" chops are not quite established. Plus you really need a new MAP sensor, big MAF, and meth/aux fueling to get the most out of it. It doesn't spool *much* slower than this one, ~500 rpms, but unless you are going to upgrade those other items, it doesn't make much sense. I don't trust meth as AUX fueling, and unless some magical solution arises before next march or so, (read injectors) I am going to be using this setup as a testbed for a proper PWM controlled secondary injection system.

This turbo is likley capable of maxing the stock maf if BATs are much below 80* so I will have to keep an eye on it.

[G Sp33dy]

thanks again for this write-up mang. BNR s3 is currently en-route by tuesday, installed by thursday/friday/ saturday pending no hiccups in the removal/installation. lately this fucker has been fighting me on everything i do to it...

[kritz]

MT seems to be a good way to go for the d.d. thanks for the great write up with your trials and tribs!

@Ziggo

[KostasCX-7]

Tomorrow Im going to swap mine. I hope everything goes well.

[Boosted Beluga]

Very nice write up Chris

[paveltol]

Just FYI
I have a BNR S3 installed on my ms6 for more than 10k miles and it is very nice for a dd car. The car pulls pretty well and makes no smoke. My friend's Infiniti g37s stays behind in a traffic light race (I launch at 2-2,5k rpm).
With a very conservative tune it makes 300 hp at 1bar of boost and 91 octane instead of 93 stock. Later, with carillo rods installed, I'll try to push the limits of the setup of mods I have.

[KostasCX-7]

I had various problems with the swap of BNR3. First I couldnt approach underneath the turbo, oil drain line and bracket because it is the transfer case there. I did most of work from above.

Also at my stock turbo, the routing of the oil feed line is different than ms3/6. The metal line is embracing the stock compressor and I had to cut and fab this line. I used 6mm reinforced oil hose and double clamps.

Do you think is it a safe connection?

[bmylez]

Picture of custom oil feed line? Clamps aren't gonna cut it. You're talkin 95psi of oil pressure at red line. It's going to leak if it's just clamps. Maybe you can order an OEM feed line for an MS3/6 and if it doesn't bolt up, have a shop cut it in half and weld a -4AN fitting on it, then run a -4AN steel braided line to the turbo. You can use the factory feed banjo bolt but you'll need a -4AN banjo fitting.

[KostasCX-7]

Originally Posted by bmylez Picture of custom oil feed line? Clamps aren't gonna cut it. You're talkin 95psi of oil pressure at red line. It's going to leak if it's just clamps. Maybe you can order an OEM feed line for an MS3/6 and if it doesn't bolt up, have a shop cut it in half and weld a -4AN fitting on it, then run a -4AN steel braided line to the turbo. You can use the factory feed banjo bolt but you'll need a -4AN banjo fitting.

95psi oil pressure? This is high! Unfortunately I dont have clear pictures of the custom oil feed line here are some








The length of the oil hose is about 4 inches. I used 2 triple clamps to secure on the metal line.

Is it required the uninstallation of the alternator in order to remove the stock oil feed line?

[bmylez]

Interesting. I wonder if there is something in the way on the CX-7 to prevent the use of the regular oil feed line. Anyway, it's a really bad idea to use clamps with rubber hose for a high pressure line. It's going to leak. Yes, our motors hit about 95psi oil pressure at red line.

It is technically not necessary, but you would be an idiot not to remove the alternator to work on the stock oil line. Getting the alternator out really isn't that hard. You need a 14mm wrench for the belt tensioner and then I think 12mm socket for the alternator nuts. Just make sure you disconnect both connections from the alternator before trying to remove it.

[G Sp33dy]

thanks to your write-up, my BNR swap went as smooth as two half drunk guys could do. only issue so far is I am only hitting 14psi with my OTS tune set at 19psi. I know I know, ATR right? I've got some reading to do...

[Navy_Mech2]

WGDC tables^^

[KostasCX-7]

For those who have the same problem than me I modified the stock oil feed line and I solved the issue.

[G Sp33dy]

Originally Posted by Navy_Mech2 WGDC tables^^

LOL Yeaaaah. I'm pretty sure if I fuck with any tables besides the idle, this thing will barf rods all over I290 haha. Phate is working on it for me. I'm expecting issues, as I'm still using the OTS stg2 tune. Can't wait to dyno omgggg

[Domino81]

That's why when I do go BT I'm going to sit down with a tuner and have him walk me through it. Because I'd like to understand how to do this for myself.

[Navy_Mech2]

honestly its not that difficult. download and read through abilor's tuning guide and he explains everything pretty well. enough to where you can start tweaking and not be afraid of blowing shit up.

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...e-noobs-83959/

[Domino81]

Originally Posted by Navy_Mech2 honestly its not that difficult. download and read through abilor's tuning guide and he explains everything pretty well. enough to where you can start tweaking and not be afraid of blowing shit up. http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...e-noobs-83959/

Will try.

[Domino81]

I learn SO much more and SO much easier with visual aid. I can gernally do anything if I've seen it done once.

[Navy_Mech2]

his guide has screen shots of ATR in it for help. its not just a bunch of words. if anything its a good read just for the knowlege in case something stupid goes wrong so you can fix it yourself and not have to wait on someone else to help you.