BNR S3 Swap How To

[Ziggo]

The turbo has no impact on emissions. I have an OBD2 inspection as well and have had no issues. Things like a cat less downpipe or EGR block off have more of an impact.

The OEM clutch is fine, excepting actual hard road course use. Sustained abuse on a hot day at the track results in a slipping clutch. I went to an ACT 6puck sprung probably 6 months after installing because of frustration on the race track

I get terrible MPG, about 18, but I drive 7 miles to work. I get probably 24 on longer drives. I've never cared to try to improve it, the 5/7 E85 mix doesn't help, and as always it's going to be dependent on your right foot. Some folks have reported better MPG with larger turbos than this, simply because with the delayed spool, you don't tend to squirt around as much.

No PCV or dipstick issues, but that has to do with motor health more than anything. I don't run a catch can.

[g00s3y]

Mine should be here Monday, will probably take the old turbo out and prep it all Sunday night, should make for a nice quick install. I've taken the DP/turbo off a few times already, so everything should go smoothly. I'll probably throw up some pics just for the hell of it too.

[Lex2007]

Originally Posted by Ziggo The turbo has no impact on emissions. I have an OBD2 inspection as well and have had no issues. Things like a cat less downpipe or EGR block off have more of an impact. The OEM clutch is fine, excepting actual hard road course use. Sustained abuse on a hot day at the track results in a slipping clutch. I went to an ACT 6puck sprung probably 6 months after installing because of frustration on the race track I get terrible MPG, about 18, but I drive 7 miles to work. I get probably 24 on longer drives. I've never cared to try to improve it, the 5/7 E85 mix doesn't help, and as always it's going to be dependent on your right foot. Some folks have reported better MPG with larger turbos than this, simply because with the delayed spool, you don't tend to squirt around as much. No PCV or dipstick issues, but that has to do with motor health more than anything. I don't run a catch can.

Thanks for the great info Ziggo. Much appreciated.

If you had to do it again, would you have chosen this same set up?

Originally Posted by g00s3y Mine should be here Monday, will probably take the old turbo out and prep it all Sunday night, should make for a nice quick install. I've taken the DP/turbo off a few times already, so everything should go smoothly. I'll probably throw up some pics just for the hell of it too.

Why you switching from a k04 that's already making plenty of power?

[Ziggo]

Absolutely. Its an even better deal now than it was when I bought it. IMO its the best path to maximizing the capabilities of the stock block. Use the money you save vs an ATP kit to get a 3.5" intake and/or a meth kit if E85 isn't available.

[ItsNox]

If youre getting a beaner you need teh meths!!

Good info Ziggo! Thanks for this write up too bud.

[g00s3y]

Originally Posted by Lex2007 Why you switching from a k04 that's already making plenty of power?

I don't run it daily with the map that made 348/356. Was more of just a "push it as far as I can, and see what numbers I could hit on the dyno" map. I go daily with ~310/335.

The k04 dies off after ~5300rpm, while this BNR will pull nicely until redline. Plus I'm pretty positive I could hit my current daily numbers on just pump with the s3, and getting MPG back from having to run a corn mix. On pump with the k04 I maxed out ~290/330, so I'll be interested to see what I can get with it.

[Lex2007]

Originally Posted by Ziggo Absolutely. Its an even better deal now than it was when I bought it. IMO its the best path to maximizing the capabilities of the stock block. Use the money you save vs an ATP kit to get a 3.5" intake and/or a meth kit if E85 isn't available.

Corksport's $1100 kit is spoken highly of on this forum. ATP has like 12 different turbo offerings. No idea what the real world differences are. So many choices is dizzying.

Regardless of the turbo, the essentials are 1. high pressure fuel pump internals to provide more fuel 2. COBB access port to be able to reprogram the computer to accept the new turbo parameters, 3. new boost controller, yes?

After that, the options for new headers, downpipe, turbo inlet pipe and larger cold air intake are all optional. Is that correct?

My problem is this is my daily driver. Cant have too much down time as I do the install and troubleshoot.

[Lex2007]

Originally Posted by g00s3y I don't run it daily with the map that made 348/356. Was more of just a "push it as far as I can, and see what numbers I could hit on the dyno" map. I go daily with ~310/335. The k04 dies off after ~5300rpm, while this BNR will pull nicely until redline. Plus I'm pretty positive I could hit my current daily numbers on just pump with the s3, and getting MPG back from having to run a corn mix. On pump with the k04 I maxed out ~290/330, so I'll be interested to see what I can get with it.

ah good info. What did you pay for the Ko4 kit? Who sold it to you?

[WAMBUSHHHH!]

Originally Posted by Lex2007 ah good info. What did you pay for the Ko4 kit? Who sold it to you?

K04 comes in the car? Soooo, it was included in the price when he bought it..

Originally Posted by Lex2007 Corksport's $1100 kit is spoken highly of on this forum. ATP has like 12 different turbo offerings. No idea what the real world differences are. So many choices is dizzying. Regardless of the turbo, the essentials are 1. high pressure fuel pump internals to provide more fuel 2. COBB access port to be able to reprogram the computer to accept the new turbo parameters, 3. new boost controller, yes? After that, the options for new headers, downpipe, turbo inlet pipe and larger cold air intake are all optional. Is that correct? My problem is this is my daily driver. Cant have too much down time as I do the install and troubleshoot.

Lock down what your power goals are and from there the turbo selection should start to narrow down. If you need the car up and running quickly, I would go with either the BNR, CS or GT28 series as they give relatively the same power, great turbos for the stock block and are more or less direct bolt ons. Not sure if Edge is still doing their BNR sale but they have a kit with just about everyting you would need for a BNR.

While those are bolt-ons and can be done in roughly one day, with the luck, helping hands and patience, be sure to build in an extra day or so to troubleshoot issues. If you can't have the car down for too long, building that extra day in will help ease pressure off in case something unexpected happens. When I helped with a BNR install for a fellow NATOR, his MAP sensor was bad (it was new, covered thankfully) but he couldn't read boost. So tuning couldn't take place until we got that sorted out. Obvisouly an easy fix but did take a day to get a new one. His car was drivable but we just couldn't tell if he was getting any boost or too much. Since the BNR moved the turbo over ever so lightly, his intake was rubbing and hitting his BPV on his TMIC. Things like that happen and if you need the car the next day, it may not be possible to get everything sorted out. Just food for thought.

[Lex2007]

Thanks Wambush. Good info. I recognize that little issues could delay the process by a week or so. I would anticipate a week's down time. (I didnt realize he was talking about the stock turbo, clearly. Thanks for clarifying)

Its hard know how much more power Im wanting honestly. If Im gonna drop $2000 on a Accessport and turbo I expect at least another 60-75 hp. Otherwise what's the point? But I dont know what that means for driveability, torque steer, MPG when not hammering it, ability of the clutch to handle the torque, LSD and gears to handle the torque.

I also recognize that 450hp for example in a FWD is sorta worthless accept on the highway. FWD has its limitations.

[g00s3y]

Well this sucks, I must have over rotated the housing. Wastegate isn't working properly, can't build any boost on the low end, WGDC shoots up when first going WOT, then just drops to 0. Turbo is still spiking around 20-21psi at redline. Was a pain in the ass getting the WG back on after rotating the housing. No where near as easy as anyone made it out to be. And the k04 WG rotation bracket that came with the HTP under route piping didn't help either.

Not blaming any company, just for anyone else thinking of going this route, it isn't just a straight up easy swap. Modifications will have to be made.

[JBR]

Originally Posted by g00s3y Well this sucks, I must have over rotated the housing. Wastegate isn't working properly, can't build any boost on the low end, WGDC shoots up when first going WOT, then just drops to 0. Turbo is still spiking around 20-21psi at redline. Was a pain in the ass getting the WG back on after rotating the housing. No where near as easy as anyone made it out to be. And the k04 WG rotation bracket that came with the HTP under route piping didn't help either. Not blaming any company, just for anyone else thinking of going this route, it isn't just a straight up easy swap. Modifications will have to be made.

You should be able to clock the S3 using the wastegate bracket that came with the turbo. We've done with our under mounted piping and it works perfectly.

[ItsNox]

Originally Posted by g00s3y Well this sucks, I must have over rotated the housing. Wastegate isn't working properly, can't build any boost on the low end, WGDC shoots up when first going WOT, then just drops to 0. Turbo is still spiking around 20-21psi at redline. Was a pain in the ass getting the WG back on after rotating the housing. No where near as easy as anyone made it out to be. And the k04 WG rotation bracket that came with the HTP under route piping didn't help either. Not blaming any company, just for anyone else thinking of going this route, it isn't just a straight up easy swap. Modifications will have to be made.

Man that does suck. @ms6mil; @G1sdaname; We clocked Gabes BNR for the JBR undermotor FMIC piping and didn't have any issues if I remember. Unfortunately I was balls deep in my own BNR swap and didn't see what they had to do. Can you guys chime in?

[neganox]

You should be able to reuse the WGA plate that comes on the BNR. There shouldn't be a need to use the k04 plate.

[g00s3y]

Originally Posted by jbarone You should be able to clock the S3 using the wastegate bracket that came with the turbo. We've done with our under mounted piping and it works perfectly.

The bracket that it comes with is what I used, but it hit the compressor housing when it was rotated, and only one bolt would line up. It was impossible to get them both in.

This has nothing to do with htp piping kit, that works perfectly fine with the turbo clocked.

I'll try to get some pictures when I fix it to show. But I tried everything short of grinding down the compressor housing to get it to work. In the end I had to enlarge the holes for the WG and bracket so it would bolt up. Now it's just a matter of getting it adjusted so I can boost properly.

[G1sdaname]

Originally Posted by jbarone You should be able to clock the S3 using the wastegate bracket that came with the turbo. We've done with our under mounted piping and it works perfectly.

Mine is clocked and under engine pipping is awesome!!!


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You will need to be tuned for this but rotating the actuator rod two full turns will improve the boost lag (hopefully I didn't misunderstand the issue)


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You can do it without taking out the turbo...


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[G1sdaname]

Originally Posted by g00s3y The bracket that it comes with is what I used, but it hit the compressor housing when it was rotated, and only one bolt would line up. It was impossible to get them both in. This has nothing to do with htp piping kit, that works perfectly fine with the turbo clocked. I'll try to get some pictures when I fix it to show. But I tried everything short of grinding down the compressor housing to get it to work. In the end I had to enlarge the holes for the WG and bracket so it would bolt up. Now it's just a matter of getting it adjusted so I can boost properly.

At first that's what I thought with my BNR3 but it ended up fitting with a little (a lot) elbow grease.


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[JBR]

@G1sdaname; Those are some awesome pictures.

Yeah, it can be tricky...You have to get the turbo in just the right spot.

[g00s3y]

Originally Posted by G1sdaname

Thanks for this picture. Mine is pointed almost directly down, seems I need to have it point towards the front a bit more.

Yeah, I know about being able to do it without taking it off. I had the same exact problem when I rotated my k04, went a bit too much with it, and boost response was horrible. Was extremely happy though when I found out I could get to all the bolts with everything intact.

I need to get this fixed asap, I'm driving around with about 80hp/140tq around the city on my base map thanks to this lol. I could add some timing to compensate for the moment, but I should be able to get this fixed by Saturday, which is the better idea.

Did you rotate the WG also? The tip on mine points downward. Best pic I could get of it at the moment, with everything in the way, can't wait to clean up all that clutter.

[G1sdaname]

Originally Posted by g00s3y Thanks for this picture. Mine is pointed almost directly down, seems I need to have it point towards the front a bit more. Yeah, I know about being able to do it without taking it off. I had the same exact problem when I rotated my k04, went a bit too much with it, and boost response was horrible. Was extremely happy though when I found out I could get to all the bolts with everything intact. I need to get this fixed asap, I'm driving around with about 80hp/140tq around the city on my base map thanks to this lol. I could add some timing to compensate for the moment, but I should be able to get this fixed by Saturday, which is the better idea. Did you rotate the WG also? The tip on mine points downward. Best pic I could get of it at the moment, with everything in the way, can't wait to clean up all that clutter.

You rotate the WG rod, I gotta find the write up and I'll post it.


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[g00s3y]

Originally Posted by G1sdaname You rotate the WG rod, I gotta find the write up and I'll post it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I understand all that, that's not what I'm talking about. The WG itself, I see yours has the nipple pointing upward, mine is pointing down. I don't believe I rotated the WG itself, so I was wondering why the nipple would be facing the other way.

[G1sdaname]

Well you have to place it in the right location but no you don't have to do anything to the WG itself


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Here are some other pictures maybe this helps...


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[Project_dog]

Anyone here running a turbo blanket? On it

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[g00s3y]

Originally Posted by G1sdaname Here are some other pictures maybe this helps... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Test it with an air compressor... wow... I'm an idiot. This would have saved me so much time, and blood, and beer. Why did I not think of this all these times. The air compressor was just sitting right there in the corner of the garage, looking at me, knowing damn well what it could have done...

I should probably just sell this car and get a prius now.

[Micha]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but its pertinent to my situation.

I acquired what is to be an early BNR S3 V1. This has been confirmed with Bryan.

Anyways, while trying to clock it to put into my speed 3(yes she is going back together) it seems that the cold side of the turbo housing gets in the way of the WGA on the turbo.

Is the diameter possibly different on another WGA or even the second gen versions? Thank you very much for your help.

[neganox]

Originally Posted by Micha Sorry to resurrect an old thread but its pertinent to my situation. I acquired what is to be an early BNR S3 V1. This has been confirmed with Bryan. Anyways, while trying to clock it to put into my speed 3(yes she is going back together) it seems that the cold side of the turbo housing gets in the way of the WGA on the turbo. Is the diameter possibly different on another WGA or even the second gen versions? Thank you very much for your help.

That seems odd. Does your V1 look like the left turba in this picture?

[g00s3y]

Originally Posted by Micha Sorry to resurrect an old thread but its pertinent to my situation. I acquired what is to be an early BNR S3 V1. This has been confirmed with Bryan. Anyways, while trying to clock it to put into my speed 3(yes she is going back together) it seems that the cold side of the turbo housing gets in the way of the WGA on the turbo. Is the diameter possibly different on another WGA or even the second gen versions? Thank you very much for your help.

I had the same problem with my BNR S3 v2. It was a pain in the ass getting the WG back on. Had to drill out the holes a bit on the bracket so the WG could fit correctly on the bracket and not be at an angle from coming in contact from the housing.

[aviator79]

is it the two port WG? That is what I have so ya there are different WGs.

[Micha]

Originally Posted by neganox That seems odd. Does your V1 look like the left turba in this picture?

Yessir. Single port WGA.

[Josadol]

Hello my friends...I am happy to join this community ... where the main and most important our Mazdaspeed3 som ... I hope to learn a lot from you

[Code Monkey]

[broda]

Off to a resounding start

[ItsNox]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey

At least he doesn't have a speed 6 for once.

[PRIME-B]

Are you guys reusing the factory oil drain gasket or buying a new one? I'm going from stock to bnr s3 with all the supporting mods in pretty much one day, so doing my best to be prepared. Also, the coolant line is the only line that needs to be extended right? I read somewhere that the heater core hose needs to be done as well, but not all the write ups say that. thanks in advanced and wish me luck

[everton99]

I believe my S4 came with new gaskets, but it's been a while since I installed it.


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[PRIME-B]

Originally Posted by everton99 I believe my S4 came with new gaskets, but it's been a while since I installed it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ah, I bought mine used so I don't get such luxuries lol

[PRIME-B]

Is everyone pulling oem studs off of the k04 or buying new ones? With how much of a pain the dp bolts were I feel like pulling the oem studs would be sketch.

[ItsNox]

Originally Posted by PRIME-B Is everyone pulling oem studs off of the k04 or buying new ones? With how much of a pain the dp bolts were I feel like pulling the oem studs would be sketch.

My studs were no problem coming out. My buddies got all mangled up when we pulled his out. A lot of factors go into it like age of car, miles, location, if turbo was pulled recently, etc. I would spend the extra few dollars for those parts, just in case.

The most valuable thing in my garage is the BOX-O-BOLTS i've accumulated over a few years of install days at my house. When your balls deep in an install and you lost/break/cut off a bolt you need, that backup is near priceless at that time.

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by PRIME-B Is everyone pulling oem studs off of the k04 or buying new ones? With how much of a pain the dp bolts were I feel like pulling the oem studs would be sketch.

I have snapped enough reuses studs in the past that I just buy new ones. Nothing sucks more than having to pull the turbo back out and extracting what is left.

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[PRIME-B]

@ItsNox; @himurax13; Thanks for the input fellas, I just placed the order with edge auto for all the studs and bolts along with the oil return line gasket. That should wrap it up. Ill post on how the install went for me once I get it in.