Built block for daily driving

[BuddySpeed3]

Hey guys, I'm looking to the future for when my ringlands crack or I bend a rod. I was thinking that if I were to build the motor, I would just do the bottom end. The thought I'm having is to just do rods, pistons, and bearings. What do you guys recommend for daily driving in terms of part selection etc? Thanks for any thoughts I am ok at this point with then stock head and rev limit as I don't plan on going bigger than the Bnr S4.

[rymanmazda]

Originally Posted by BuddySpeed3 Hey guys, I'm looking to the future for when my ringlands crack or I bend a rod. I was thinking that if I were to build the motor, I would just do the bottom end. The thought I'm having is to just do rods, pistons, and bearings. What do you guys recommend for daily driving in terms of part selection etc? Thanks for any thoughts I am ok at this point with then stock head and rev limit as I don't plan on going bigger than the Bnr S4.

Do some reading around and you'll find what you need for your build. If you wanted to save a little money down the road, you would build the bottom end while your block is still possibly in good condition. I'm daily driving a built bottom and I am not having any issues. See my sig for my build list.

[GroceryGtr]

If you want quick and easy I would suggest you just get a forged build from one of the vendors on here. Pricing isn't that much of a premium and it sounds like your goals don't require anything super unique or custom. This way you get a block fully assembled and ready to go. Minimal downtime, no machining worries, and no parts not fitting correctly issues(I promise bearing clearance issues aren't fun).

I'm running a sp63 block and had my head rebuilt locally(stock springs and valves). Mine is a DD and power goals are similar to yours. Very good manners in traffic and tons of room for more hp.

Do a search to get a fully rundown on suggested options and such, but I'll give you a starting point.

Pistons - 4032 is the preferred material as it has better DD characteristics. HOWEVER, myself and many other are running newer custom 2618s with zero issues. Recent developments and techniques have mitigated or removed many of the historical pitfalls with 2618s for DD use.

Head - for DD normal power goals(sub 400whp) the stock springs and valves are fine. Basic 3 angle wouldn't be a bad idea if you have the change. Watch the deck height as most machine shops have the wrong measurements(all the books ive see incorrectly list the standard na 6 specs). As long as you haven't warped it they should only need to take a few thousandths off for the sake of good mating surfaces. This is well within height specs and shouldn't be an issue.

Do NOT remove the Balance Shaft. I don't care what these idiots say about picking up possibly 10hp, its not worth the vibration hell you will incur especially for a DD.

If you're over 130k and dont want to ever worry about taking the engine apart again, go ahead an spend the extra money to do the ENTIRE vvt system. I did everything including the waterpump and oil pump because I have zero desire to pull it apart again for a stupid $50 part.

Keyed or not to key is a debatable topic. My opinion is you shouldn't need to key the crank at your power level goals.

If you are in a non-emissions state I would go ahead and pull the VCTS system from the IM since it will be apart anyways.

[BuddySpeed3]

Originally Posted by rymanmazda Do some reading around and you'll find what you need for your build. If you wanted to save a little money down the road, you would build the bottom end while your block is still possibly in good condition. I'm daily driving a built bottom and I am not having any issues. See my sig for my build list.

My engine has 134,000 km's (83,000 miles) on it. I'm guessing that at that mileage, a machine shop would have to hone the cylinders, or possibly bore them out a size up. I'm not sure I want to over bore, because I have heard stories of it causing over heating issues. I'm thinking 4032 pistons for longevity. I'm just trying to figure out which brands of rods and pistons to go with. Are you using oem crank and rod bearings? Thanks man

[BuddySpeed3]

Originally Posted by GroceryGtr If you want quick and easy I would suggest you just get a forged build from one of the vendors on here. Pricing isn't that much of a premium and it sounds like your goals don't require anything super unique or custom. This way you get a block fully assembled and ready to go. Minimal downtime, no machining worries, and no parts not fitting correctly issues(I promise bearing clearance issues aren't fun). I'm running a sp63 block and had my head rebuilt locally(stock springs and valves). Mine is a DD and power goals are similar to yours. Very good manners in traffic and tons of room for more hp. Do a search to get a fully rundown on suggested options and such, but I'll give you a starting point. Pistons - 4032 is the preferred material as it has better DD characteristics. HOWEVER, myself and many other are running newer custom 2618s with zero issues. Recent developments and techniques have mitigated or removed many of the historical pitfalls with 2618s for DD use. Head - for DD normal power goals(sub 400whp) the stock springs and valves are fine. Basic 3 angle wouldn't be a bad idea if you have the change. Watch the deck height as most machine shops have the wrong measurements(all the books ive see incorrectly list the standard na 6 specs). As long as you haven't warped it they should only need to take a few thousandths off for the sake of good mating surfaces. This is well within height specs and shouldn't be an issue. Do NOT remove the Balance Shaft. I don't care what these idiots say about picking up possibly 10hp, its not worth the vibration hell you will incur especially for a DD. If you're over 130k and dont want to ever worry about taking the engine apart again, go ahead an spend the extra money to do the ENTIRE vvt system. I did everything including the waterpump and oil pump because I have zero desire to pull it apart again for a stupid $50 part. Keyed or not to key is a debatable topic. My opinion is you shouldn't need to key the crank at your power level goals. If you are in a non-emissions state I would go ahead and pull the VCTS system from the IM since it will be apart anyways.

Thanks for the tips I thought about going with an sp63 stage 1 block. The only issue is that I don't think they ship to Canada. I think edge auto sport might, I will have to investigate. With 83,000 miles on the clock so far, I'm not too sure what needs to be done to the block if I took it to a machine shop. I'd imagine honing and or boring might be required. Is it possible for the block or head to be warped and require machining at this mileage? And is it more likely for the block mating surface, or head mating surface to be warped? Thank you.

[GroceryGtr]

You're pretty close to the border, find someone on here who lives in Buffalo and have it shipped to them, then bring it across yourself. If you take your core down and come back with the new one you won't have to pay duty. just tell them your taking it across to have a friend help you clean it.

If its running fine with no issues or consumption you should only need a good hone. If something was warped you'd have overheating and coolant leaking issues. Heads warp, not blocks.

[Cdnspeed6]

@buddyspeed Im a Local and have build a couple Engines for some local guys Pm me and i can get you something built

Originally Posted by BuddySpeed3 Thanks for the tips I thought about going with an sp63 stage 1 block. The only issue is that I don't think they ship to Canada. I think edge auto sport might, I will have to investigate. With 83,000 miles on the clock so far, I'm not too sure what needs to be done to the block if I took it to a machine shop. I'd imagine honing and or boring might be required. Is it possible for the block or head to be warped and require machining at this mileage? And is it more likely for the block mating surface, or head mating surface to be warped? Thank you.

I can almost Guarantee you'll want to go to 88mm that way you get a nice perfect bore, I wouldnt be worried about the decks being warped unless the car has been overheated

Any forged piston you get you'll want to let it warm up fully before driving, I use manley pistons, they work well and when the bores are machined to Spec have no Cold piston slap