Built Motor and Twinscroll 35r

[XLT_66]

Build List
Polished Crank - Balanced Assembly
CP Pistons, 9.5:1, 0.020" Over
Eagle Rods
OEM Main Bearings
OEM Rod Bearings
ARP Main Studs
ARP Head Studs
OEM Full Gasket Kit
GP Werks BSD/Windage Tray
Spin On Oil Conversion
DCR VVT
3 BAR MAP Sensor


GT3582r T3 Twinscroll 0.78 A/R; Anti-Surge Housing
Custom Twinscroll Tubular Exhaust Mani w/ single EWG
Tial 44mm MV-S WG - Recirc'd
Custom 3" Catless V-Band Downpipe
Custom 3.5" Intake
ACT ZX5-HDG6 Sprung, 6-Puck Clutch - Streetlite Flywheel

CP-E Triple Gauge Pod
ProSport Sandwich
ProSport Premium Oil Temp
ProSport Premium Oil Pressure
ProSport Premium Boost

Even with getting everything at wholesale costs...I'll be over $5k and more likely closer to $6k once it's all said and done. Originally just planned on building the motor and not doing the turbo and clutch...but...that's no fun. I have an excel file going with every dollar and cent spent as well as part numbers for every single part I have and will be purchasing. Should be useful to people taking the plunge.


Cheers,

Evan@COBB

[Chimmike]

dual WG=overkill IMO.

Looks like a nice build list man!

[Ckmazdaspeed3]

I just installed my new motor and had to add about $500 in miscellaneous bull shit to my total, but it was my first time... it would have helped me a bunch to add that to my total :/

Sounds cool though, GL!

[rfinkle2]

Good luck Evan. I am really interested in your results.

[doubleflusher]

Wholesale price hookup please?

[Evan@COBB]

Originally Posted by doubleflusher Wholesale price hookup please?

Sorry, man. I'd love to pass the savings. Some of out bigger distributors (Motovicity, Turn14, RallySportDirect) give us some pretty sweet hookups. However, it's for COBB employees only.

There is no way I could ever have afford this if I had paid regular prices for all the purchased items and then ALSO had to pay for the exhaust mani and downpipe.

I'll be $6k in myself. I can't imagine the goes who zoom zoom boom and then get fully built.

[mason]

AWESOME MAN! if you end up getting surge problems, switch to a 1.06 AR housing.

i will be following the build close, please post logs ect........

seems to be the new thing to do, T3 twinscroll, i think having a tube style manny will give you some different resaults than mine, but i kinda still think you will end up getting a 1.06 A/R turbine housing.

[Evan@COBB]

Well, made some good progress this weekend. Got the motor pulled out. Did the entire thing, start to finish completely by myself. I took it out the bottom by removing the control arms to get the axles out.

It got really really scary for a bit when I was lifting the car away from the motor and then the motor started to rock backwards. Turns out I didn't disconnect a ground on the passenger fender.

I was able to drop it out with the exhaust mani and turbo still attached.

I got the motor torn down pretty good. Although I can't take the head off yet because I can't get the motor onto an engine stand. The damned tranny bolts aren't long enough to work with the engine stand I have. Does anyone know the thread for the bellhousing bolts?

End result. I'm tired. But I'm still shooting to drop the motor off at the machine shop tomorrow afternoon.

[XLT_66]

Couple pictures from this weekend.

The picture was taken 4 days after I installed a brand new SF on the car for testing. This was after only about 50 miles of driving at no/low boost.



After dropping it out of the bottom. Wiring harness and intake manifold were only things removed. Alternator, exhaust mani, turbo all still mounted. Disconnected the lower control arms from the sub-frame to get the axles out and she came right out.



Tearing it down...



Cylinder 1:



Cylinder 2 (kind of):



Cylinder 3 (lowest compression, 151 psi):


Cylinder 4:




At this point, the block and rotating assembly as well as the complete head are sitting side by side on a pallet ready to go to the machine shop.



On a positive note, my parts shelf is starting to take shape!



And...this showed up yesterday. It's been retired from the road coarse. Big plans for this guy this year.

[h.h.sk1nny]

Nice build OP, how many miles are on that speed3 motor? There is a ton of carbon build up. My speed6 has 89k miles (no CC, or EGR delete), and they are were cleaner than yours. Just some small carbon buildup on outer edge of pistons.

[XLT_66]

Originally Posted by h.h.sk1nny Nice build OP, how many miles are on that speed3 motor? There is a ton of carbon build up. My speed6 has 89k miles (no CC, or EGR delete), and they are were cleaner than yours. Just some small carbon buildup on outer edge of pistons.

Only 33,000 miles. I've had an EGR delete since 14,000 and a MD Catch Can for the last 1,500 miles.

[Boosted Beluga]

nice build man. Can't wait to see the results.

[h.h.sk1nny]

Dude, those things are seriously dirty lol.

[mason]

i wish i had a lift to use......

[PapaSmurf]

goodshit man, good to see someone else going with a twinscroll 35r setup!

[taf0422]

very impressive!! I can't wait to build mine up. It probably won't be until next winter tho. Definitely will stay tuned for the turn out!

Good luck.

p.s. 1700 post! lol

[802MS3]

if youre doing t3 twinscroll, I would think about a bigger exhaust side.

[XLT_66]

Originally Posted by 802MS3 if youre doing t3 twinscroll, I would think about a bigger exhaust side.

I'm going to start with the .78 and see where it gets me spool wise. I have no fear that this hotside will still leave me enough up top for what I want to do. I'm hoping that with the anti-surge compressor housing that I'll be able to combat surge better than Mason was able to do.

If the .78 does prove to be a problem, swapping out to a twinscroll 1.06 isn't a big deal nor very expensive.

Regardless, I'm so ready for it to be on the car already...still several weeks at minimum until I see the motor back from the machinist.

Originally Posted by Tomas Why no GTX35? might as well.

Thought about it. Decided against it. It's more $$$ and I don't think I'll be pushing this snail hard enough to see the real benefits of the GTX wheel up top.

If I were to do a GTX it would have been the GTX3576. I may end up kicking myself for not going that route depending on how responsive this thing is after its all said and done.

[WWPearlMS6]

Originally Posted by XLT_66 I'm going to start with the .78 and see where it gets me spool wise. I have no fear that this hotside will still leave me enough up top for what I want to do. I'm hoping that with the anti-surge compressor housing that I'll be able to combat surge better than Mason was able to do. If the .78 does prove to be a problem, swapping out to a twinscroll 1.06 isn't a big deal nor very expensive. Regardless, I'm so ready for it to be on the car already...still several weeks at minimum until I see the motor back from the machinist. Thought about it. Decided against it. It's more $$$ and I don't think I'll be pushing this snail hard enough to see the real benefits of the GTX wheel up top. If I were to do a GTX it would have been the GTX3576. I may end up kicking myself for not going that route depending on how responsive this thing is after its all said and done.

Great looking build you got coming along here! Gonna be a beast when your done with it.
& Not to thread jack but that's actually the turbo I just ordered up. Any thoughts on it, its tough to find any information on it. You seem like you really know your stuff, As far as I know I'll be like the first to run it. I just hope it spools/behaves close to a GTX3076, with the benefits of being a 35 =\

LINK:
GTX3576R T3 Twinscroll Turbo w/ .82 Trim
Tial (Black) 44MM Wastegate & Springs
ACT Clutch Kit - 6 Pad Spring Disc w/ Streetlite Flywheel
Treadstone TR1035 Intercooler
Racebuilt Fabrication T3 Twinscroll Tubular Un-Equal Length Manifold
Racebuilt Fabrication V-Band To V-Band (ATP DP->RBF Manifold) Adapter

[Tomas]

Why no GTX35?
might as well.

[spiker98]

Nice dude! That GT-R track monster is awesome!

[XLT_66]

Been doing a bit of porting in the mornings before work. Don't have much (any?) experience doing it before but it's not like it's rocket science. I am an engineer, after all, and did well in Fluid Dynamics...so I'm qualified, right?

This is just after the rough cutting and hogging all the material away. Still have a little bit more work to do to match it up a little better. Still need to come back in with the flap wheel and sandpaper rolls to smooth everything out real nice.

Next up is gasket matching the head. From putting the gasket on, it looks like much less material will need to be taken away there.

[h.h.sk1nny]

Originally Posted by XLT_66 Been doing a bit of porting in the mornings before work. Don't have much (any?) experience doing it before but it's not like it's rocket science. I am an engineer, after all, and did well in Fluid Dynamics...so I'm qualified, right? This is just after the rough cutting and hogging all the material away. Still have a little bit more work to do to match it up a little better. Still need to come back in with the flap wheel and sandpaper rolls to smooth everything out real nice. Next up is gasket matching the head. From putting the gasket on, it looks like much less material will need to be taken away there.

LOL, Im literally doin a PNP im my IM right now. Are you using a deburring bit? If so, where did you get it. It's taking freakin forever to get it done with rolls lol

[Boosted Beluga]

Nice. Looking good man.

[XLT_66]

This is a picture I found online but essentially the same tools I'm using. No way in hell I would be able to get the job done with just the sandpaper rolls. Gotta use a nice metal bit to hog the material away. Using an electric grinder instead of air works a lot better too as they have a lot better torque and adjustable speed.



A tip though...the casting aluminum is soft and will gunk up the bit. Spin them in bar soap every so often to keep things slick and the metal won't get clogged between the blades so easily. If they do get clogged, get a piece of steel or stainless and grind away on it to help remove the aluminum.

[jjfam1]

Looks real nice...

I am thinking of doing something similar with my MS6 (that I just bought), and would love to come by some time and take a look at what you have going on here.

[XLT_66]

Okay, so as far as main and rod bearings go...

It is my understanding, OEM is the only choice for rod bearings, right? Then there is a choice for Clevite for Mains?

How many of you guys have had to have the rod bearings coated or re-machined to fit with your aftermarket rods? Any of you have K1 rods with your build?

I'm putting in my order with Mazda today for everything and am currently just ordering OEM main and rod bearings but sure woud like to know if someone else is available at this point.

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by XLT_66 Okay, so as far as main and rod bearings go... It is my understanding, OEM is the only choice for rod bearings, right? Then there is a choice for Clevite for Mains? How many of you guys have had to have the rod bearings coated or re-machined to fit with your aftermarket rods? Any of you have K1 rods with your build? I'm putting in my order with Mazda today for everything and am currently just ordering OEM main and rod bearings but sure woud like to know if someone else is available at this point.

I know DJ had to have some bearings coated, and @BlueStreak, @Ckmazdaspeed3 and @Celestspeed3 are either complete or have chosen their parts list.

They would be able to tell you about bearing choices.

[Alpha]

Originally Posted by XLT_66 Okay, so as far as main and rod bearings go... It is my understanding, OEM is the only choice for rod bearings, right? Then there is a choice for Clevite for Mains? How many of you guys have had to have the rod bearings coated or re-machined to fit with your aftermarket rods? Any of you have K1 rods with your build? I'm putting in my order with Mazda today for everything and am currently just ordering OEM main and rod bearings but sure woud like to know if someone else is available at this point.

We now have aftermarket rod bearings. @SFWD 1934 has the info.

[PapaSmurf]

My block is at the same place DJ got his engine built at and they figure out the clearance and then send them out to be coated if needed. I went with oem main and rod bearings


Tapafucku!

[SFWD 1934]

Here are your current choice for mains:

Mains:

ACL: 5M8174A-STD/.25/.50/.75
Clevite 77: MS-2245AL
Federal Mogul: 7411MA
King: MB5442SI

I am waiting for my buddy from ACL to email me the new part number for the connecting rod bearings. As soon as I get that from him I will let you know. I am going to send him an email today.

Jason

[XLT_66]

FYI...I was at Mazda today. They now have STD/.25/.50 sizing available for rod bearings.

[Lex]

Nice build! Did you ever investigate what caused the excessive blowby? Cracked piston? rings?

[XLT_66]

Originally Posted by Lex Nice build! Did you ever investigate what caused the excessive blowby? Cracked piston? rings?

Lex,

Thanks! I have the motor torn down to a short block. I did not remove the rods/pistons from the cylinders as I wanted my machinist to do it and take a look at things. I can tell you that Cylinder 3 has some light scoring on it but, needless to say, I haven't seen the signs that I was expecting.

Hopefully, my rods and pistons will be here soon and I can finally go and drop everything off to the machinist. I'm interested to see what the rings look like.

[Lex]

Originally Posted by XLT_66 Lex, Thanks! I have the motor torn down to a short block. I did not remove the rods/pistons from the cylinders as I wanted my machinist to do it and take a look at things. I can tell you that Cylinder 3 has some light scoring on it but, needless to say, I haven't seen the signs that I was expecting. Hopefully, my rods and pistons will be here soon and I can finally go and drop everything off to the machinist. I'm interested to see what the rings look like.

Awesome, keep us posted. I am very curious what could have caused such a catastrophic failure. Did it happen all of a sudden?

[XLT_66]

No, the motor gradually started to have more and more blowby. I ruled out the things like bad PCV valve etc but it was still a problem. Installed OCC and, frankly, it got worse.

Got to the point that it was burning a decent amount of oil, blowing smoke, and oil dripping out of my SF intake that was puddling below the valve cover vent.

[Lex]

Interestingly cyl1 and 2 appear to have the most oil contamination.

[XLT_66]

Welp, looks like nobody has a set of K1 rods. Word on the street is that they've been bought out and nothing will be available until April 1st at best.

Can't afford Pauter or Carillo....that pretty much leaves me with Eagle. Which, from what I keep seeing...Eagle is the same as K1???

Hopefully I can find something... Nothing like a 3 week delay on a build before you even start.

[Alpha]

Originally Posted by XLT_66 Welp, looks like nobody has a set of K1 rods. Word on the street is that they've been bought out and nothing will be available until April 1st at best. Can't afford Pauter or Carillo....that pretty much leaves me with Eagle. Which, from what I keep seeing...Eagle is the same as K1??? Hopefully I can find something... Nothing like a 3 week delay on a build before you even start.

Eagle > or = K1 IMHO.

I have yet to see an Eagle rod fail with the 3/8 ARP2000 bolts. BIG power on those rods ALL day.

[Lex]

Most importantly measure these rods. The metal is probably fine but cheaper rods skimp on the prevision machining so have them measured and resized if need be.