Cld12pk2go's ATP GTX3071 Build

[Lex]

Anyone giving this feedback to ATP. This is the kind of stuff they have to know about to improve the product.

[EdgeAutosport.com]

Originally Posted by Lex Anyone giving this feedback to ATP. This is the kind of stuff they have to know about to improve the product.

the only problem i've had with these kits was the IWG and they have since fixed it.

[Chimmike]

I think the GTX's might be a little different then, because I know I'm not the only one having these issues. It's not like you can install the turbo wrong on the stock manifold and have shit outta place, lol.

Same goes for OP.

[cld12pk2go]

Food break...

I got both coolant lines hooked up with extensions/adapters that should work.

Going to tackle shortening the oil drain next then it is just (hopefully) buttoning everything back up.

[Chimmike]

looks like those oil drain lines are compression fittings. If you're able to fix it without going to a shop, post how! I need to shorten mine.

[NoLeftTurn]

Originally Posted by cld12pk2go Food break... I got both coolant lines hooked up with extensions/adapters that should work. Going to tackle shortening the oil drain next then it is just (hopefully) buttoning everything back up.

Thanks for doing this. I am going to be tackling this sometime in the very near future. Parts are all on the way. However, this is my daily driver so I can't afford to be down an extended period. I am doing a gt3071 with a T3 stock location Steedspeed Manni. I will also be swapping DPs to a vband. I would appreciate any recommendations that you may have. I hope to start on a Friday and be done by Sunday for sure. 1 day would even be better.

[cld12pk2go]

So I was hoping to rest my weary self after the install, watch MNF, and drink some beer.

However, it didn't end up that way...

I just wrapped everything up. It started to rain as I was putting the battery back in.

I went for about a 6 mile run and so far no leaks or major fail.

Just waiting for the smell of burning ethylene glycol to go away since the DP got rained on when doing the coolant lines...

[Chimmike]

oh yes, the minor cuts/bruises. Just finished healing from those. They're fun too when you scrape 'em up against the header wrap (i have my DP wrapped with the fiberglass stuff).

Glad to hear no leaks!

[SleeperHatch]

OP how long did install take you doing it alone start to finish? Gratz on no leaks and no chinkus fail

Sent from my Epic Win Avatar

[bmylez]

I'm glad that you went running for 6 miles and that your body didn't leak anything...but what about the CAR??!!

[cld12pk2go]

Originally Posted by bmylez I'm glad that you went running for 6 miles and that your body didn't leak anything...but what about the CAR??!!

LOL...I did a 10k in June, but there was some brutal leakage during that...

[driver311]

Yaaaa buddy. Good stuff in here and you definately chose the right turbo. YOur gonna be in heaven. I messed with several different combos but 4g e85 to 8g 93 octane turned out to be what worked best on this turbo. Kept me around 90% idc at 22psi. 20 degrees peak timing is the sweet spot and 12.0-12.5 afrs is just about right. I have taken tooo many logs to count and never gotten more than .75 knock. I know you probably have all this shit on lock down but just trying to share what Ive found that works. At 22psi and these settings my car straight up flies. Im making 36whp more after mondays dyno session than I did on my 11.7@119 run. No lie bro, At 23psi on my newest map I dynoed 415whp and was at 379whp on my track map and boost. On this particular dyno.

All cars are different and Im sure you will find what works for your car. Just trying to help a very helpful member out with my experiences. Now get this damn thing rocking. LOL

[Dano]

nice to see the BT go in!

you didn't happen to measure the inlet diameter on both the K04 and ATP turbine housings did you.

From the pics it def looks like the OE is larger than the ATP and what @Ziggo believes as well.

its his explanation why he flows more g/s on his BNR3 vs my GT28.

now time to tune

edit: not that I am 100% sure mine was done right but no restrictor installed in my setup and no oiling issues.

no banjo grinding here.

did have to cut drain line and that IS a PITA...

[Dano]

Originally Posted by chimmike looks like those oil drain lines are compression fittings. If you're able to fix it without going to a shop, post how! I need to shorten mine.

its the typical SS over rubber and Russell type fittings. you have to unscrew the outside "cap" nut off the inner fitting that extends into the line. once that cap is tightened the hose can't come off.

The bitch is the SS will frey [even with duct tape on it] and that's when it is very hard to get it back in to the cap nut...or whatever you want to call it.

if you don't have a SS line cutter [and who does] a cutoff wheel is your next best bet.

[cld12pk2go]

Further install details added in post 3.

[amoosenamedhank]

Not to be a hater.... but I thought the reason we pay a premium for the ATP "drop in kit" is to reduce some of these stupid little issues you keep running into.

[Dano]

FWIW on my GT28 the WGA is adjustable and mine came set right at 10 PSI. I have it adjusted to 12 PSI now due to the fact when I cranked it down to ~14 I was having boost control issues as the WG opened up and oscillated boost quite a bit.

Seems ATP still has some homework and QC issues to address. I think some turbos come with a non adjustable WGA at 10 some 14 some with adjustable WGA of 10-14. IMO 16 would be ideal but not available and the next size is 18 but its a large can and I doubt it would clear the FW.

The oil drain line is total fail on their part which I covered in my install thread. Looks like you had the same fun getting the fittings back over the SS line as I had...I must have spent 2 hours on that frecking line.

and I also don't like the placement of the heater core line...every time I take out my TIP it takes an act of congress to get it back in place. I think I'll follow your idea at my next install to lengthen the hose to provide clearance.

excellent writeup!

[cld12pk2go]

Originally Posted by Lex Sticking to the stock MAF housing for this? Are people still experiencing creep without the WG porting?

Stock MAF housing for now. I have about 60-80 g/s I can add from my K04 baseline before pegging it out.

I have seen some people post that they still get creep, which is why I ported mine.

Originally Posted by AdrenalineRush Really happy for you man! You have helped A LOT of people, from what I've read, go fast and do some big things (11cruzito11 comes to mind) and it's a exciting to see you getting there too Good luck on the build man best of luck. SHIT'S ABOUT TO GO DOWN

Tks!

Originally Posted by Lex Anyone giving this feedback to ATP. This is the kind of stuff they have to know about to improve the product.

I will likely contact a vender to contact ATP with a summery of the issues I found once I have everything fully sorted out. You are of course correct that without any feedback they could simply be oblivious to their kit's deficiencies.

Originally Posted by chimmike looks like those oil drain lines are compression fittings. If you're able to fix it without going to a shop, post how! I need to shorten mine.

See post #3 updates.

Originally Posted by NoLeftTurn Thanks for doing this. I am going to be tackling this sometime in the very near future. Parts are all on the way. However, this is my daily driver so I can't afford to be down an extended period. I am doing a gt3071 with a T3 stock location Steedspeed Manni. I will also be swapping DPs to a vband. I would appreciate any recommendations that you may have. I hope to start on a Friday and be done by Sunday for sure. 1 day would even be better.

I did mine on a 3-day weekend and I took my time. I could have squeezed it into 2-days without too much trouble.

Originally Posted by SuperSpeed3 OP how long did install take you doing it alone start to finish? Gratz on no leaks and no chinkus fail Sent from my Epic Win Avatar

I probably have 20 hours in total so far. This includes the pre-work activities like porting the turbine housing.

Originally Posted by driver311 Yaaaa buddy. Good stuff in here and you definately chose the right turbo. YOur gonna be in heaven. I messed with several different combos but 4g e85 to 8g 93 octane turned out to be what worked best on this turbo. Kept me around 90% idc at 22psi. 20 degrees peak timing is the sweet spot and 12.0-12.5 afrs is just about right. I have taken tooo many logs to count and never gotten more than .75 knock. I know you probably have all this shit on lock down but just trying to share what Ive found that works. At 22psi and these settings my car straight up flies. Im making 36whp more after mondays dyno session than I did on my 11.7@119 run. No lie bro, At 23psi on my newest map I dynoed 415whp and was at 379whp on my track map and boost. On this particular dyno. All cars are different and Im sure you will find what works for your car. Just trying to help a very helpful member out with my experiences. Now get this damn thing rocking. LOL

Sounds very nice!

Can you post a log? I would be interested in seeing your timing curve vs. g/s. How much have you scaled your MAF?

Originally Posted by amoosenamedhank Not to be a hater.... but I thought the reason we pay a premium for the ATP "drop in kit" is to reduce some of these stupid little issues you keep running into.

I would tend to agree.

Originally Posted by Dano FWIW on my GT28 the WGA is adjustable and mine came set right at 10 PSI. I have it adjusted to 12 PSI now due to the fact when I cranked it down to ~14 I was having boost control issues as the WG opened up and oscillated boost quite a bit. Seems ATP still has some homework and QC issues to address. I think some turbos come with a non adjustable WGA at 10 some 14 some with adjustable WGA of 10-14. IMO 16 would be ideal but not available and the next size is 18 but its a large can and I doubt it would clear the FW. The oil drain line is total fail on their part which I covered in my install thread. Looks like you had the same fun getting the fittings back over the SS line as I had...I must have spent 2 hours on that frecking line. and I also don't like the placement of the heater core line...every time I take out my TIP it takes an act of congress to get it back in place. I think I'll follow your idea at my next install to lengthen the hose to provide clearance. excellent writeup!

Mine is adjustable, but I was under the (mistaken?) impression that it should have a 14 PSI spring such that I would achieve this boost without preload and the associated spiking tendencies.

I did not measure the turbine housings.

[BlueStreak]

Originally Posted by Dano nice to see the BT go in! you didn't happen to measure the inlet diameter on both the K04 and ATP turbine housings did you. From the pics it def looks like the OE is larger than the ATP and what @Ziggo believes as well. its his explanation why he flows more g/s on his BNR3 vs my GT28.

Hmmm... I wonder if porting the ATP turbine side would help.

[Dano]

Originally Posted by BlueStreak Hmmm... I wonder if porting the ATP turbine side would help.

Tomas ported his and does have side by side pics and the OE looks larger in his as well.

I mean WTF ATP...not rocket science to mic up someone's parts and at least copy, and at best improve the design.

[Chimmike]

the ATP spring is usually 15psi Cld. You have to preload the hell out of the wastegate on these turbos before installing them.

Realgib and I had to basically cut threads off ours to allow the thing to screw down to the arm for maximum preload in order to build any sort of boost beyond 15psi.

Total PITA to get that actuator off after teh turbo is in the car.

[driver311]

They offer two wgs now. 10psi and 14psi. I have both and both are adjustable now. I definately recommend the 14psi setup. Makes things sooooo much easier.

Im scaled up for 33% of e85. If I remember its around 5%. Here is a 4th gear log for you. CAr is flat out moving that fuck out. I cant wait to get back to the track on the 29th.
Hurry up and get that badboy going. I wanna see you show us how its done. I think the stock sized maf will work great personally. Austin made 438whp on it at 22psi, and I made 395whp on it at only 18psi. Anyways keep us posted. I look forward to your progress.
Ps Im on a atp 3in intake myself now.

[cld12pk2go]

Originally Posted by driver311 They offer two wgs now. 10psi and 14psi. I have both and both are adjustable now. I definately recommend the 14psi setup. Makes things sooooo much easier. Im scaled up for 33% of e85. If I remember its around 5%. Here is a 4th gear log for you. CAr is flat out moving that fuck out. I cant wait to get back to the track on the 29th. Hurry up and get that badboy going. I wanna see you show us how its done. I think the stock sized maf will work great personally. Austin made 438whp on it at 22psi, and I made 395whp on it at only 18psi. Anyways keep us posted. I look forward to your progress. Ps Im on a atp 3in intake myself now.

My box was had the "Wastegate Spring Rate:High Boost (14+ PSI)]" on it, so I would expect that to mean 14PSI spring.

Does the info on the sticker mean anything to you that could verify 10/14 PSI?



It is possible that I have just not got on it at a high enough RPM yet to fully spool since I am hesitant to risk the coolant line popping off. I did fiddle with the wastegate flapper when putting the turbo back together after porting, and I could only barely make it budge with my fingers so it certainly is sealing flush with some preload.

I also verified my ECBS is hooked up properly.


So to adjust the preload, I assume one has to remove the two bolts holding the Wastegate actuator to the compressor housing, loosen the set screw on the actuator rod, and spin the wastegate actuator to shorten the effective rod length correct? I am kicking myself now for not bench testing the actuator for set pressure...


Have you done that with the turbo in the car? If so how much of a PITA was it?


Nice, your timing curve is just slightly more advanced that I just recommended to Cruz to inch towards over several revisions. He is still about 3-4° less than you but is now playing with E and timing. Should be fun.

[Realgib3]

I found it easier to take off the 3 larger bolts holding the whole wg assembly to the compressor housing but yeah u got the rest.

Edit: and no I would not bother doing it with the wg still on the car but others have done it.

[JacksonMS30]

I have removed the wastegate while it was on the car. It is a pita but it would be a much bigger pita to remove the turbo.

You can do it by pulling off the e-clip holding the rod to the flapper, then unbolting those two bolts and snaking the rod out through the hole. Its really not that hard, just kind of a pain without a lift. Adjust your preload accordingly and reinstall. Unforutunately, there is no way to check what preload you have if you do it this way so its kind of a trial and error thing. I believe it is much easier than removing the turbo but if you want to bench test the system, then you will deffinitely have to pull the turbo.

[driver311]

Yes I have done it while in the car. For me it was very easy. Put car up on stands and climb underneith. Pull the two nuts off that hold it in place and the clip and boom its off. I can have it off in 3min easy. NOw putting it back on once you tighten it is a lil harder. But with just a tiny bit of length taken out of rod I was seeing 16-18psi. Soo I took it back out to where it just has slight tension and it was 14-15psi. good enough for me.

[Realgib3]

Originally Posted by driver311 Yes I have done it while in the car. For me it was very easy. Put car up on stands and climb underneith. Pull the two nuts off that hold it in place and the clip and boom its off. I can have it off in 3min easy. NOw putting it back on once you tighten it is a lil harder. But with just a tiny bit of length taken out of rod I was seeing 16-18psi. Soo I took it back out to where it just has slight tension and it was 14-15psi. good enough for me.

I just hate how much these wg's vary with the atp kits. I, for one had to preload it almost all the way to see
it decent boost response and control. And I was specifically told I was getting the 14psi spring but who knows .

[Chimmike]

I agree, remove the 3 bolts and take the whole damn thing off. Total PITA, but makes life easier. Cld, I suggest cutting enough threads off so that you can screw the eye end of the actuator all the way down til there are no more threads.

It's a serious pain in the dick getting that in and out, so GL.

I consider it much like anal-banging @zpele, even after all these sessions, he's still tighter 'n a virgin mormon's snooch.

[zpele]

Its from all the coco butter I apply.

[cld12pk2go]

Originally Posted by driver311 Yes I have done it while in the car. For me it was very easy. Put car up on stands and climb underneith. Pull the two nuts off that hold it in place and the clip and boom its off. I can have it off in 3min easy. NOw putting it back on once you tighten it is a lil harder. But with just a tiny bit of length taken out of rod I was seeing 16-18psi. Soo I took it back out to where it just has slight tension and it was 14-15psi. good enough for me.

Can you elaborate on what "tiny bit" equates to in units of inches or threads?

I appear to have ~6 threads showing on the shaft maybe 1/4-1/3''.

Should i go approx that amount or shorted the rod and go further to get to the ~15 PSI range?

Tks for the help everyone!

[driver311]

So from where it slides on the wg flapper without having to pull on the wg arm go 2-3 full rotations inwards. This will put just enough tension on the wg to get you around 15-16psi.

Also Ill check your part number vs mine when I get home.

For further reference make sure when you order from Mark or Eric just specify what wg you want. Mark told me that 99% of the ones he orders are with 14psi wg. Mine unfortunatley came with a 10psi. So I had him send me a 14psi. The 14psi is more than enough for running upwards of 28psi. The 10psi will be harder to achieve high boost levels without spikes and boost falling off.

[Chimmike]

I'm just tellin ya now, if you preload it that little, you're gonna have a hard time, even with a boost controller, getting more boost out of it. Preload it as much as you can the first time so you don't have to do it all over again.

[driver311]

Originally Posted by chimmike I'm just tellin ya now, if you preload it that little, you're gonna have a hard time, even with a boost controller, getting more boost out of it. Preload it as much as you can the first time so you don't have to do it all over again.

That is absolutely retarded. Do not do that with the 14psi spring. YOu my friend obviously have a 9-10psi spring. I only have my mbc up 5 full rotations and making 23psi and holding to redline. And with it all the way down I see 15psi. Do not do what he is suggestionign OP.

Chimmike you need to contact Mark and get the proper wg for your setup or just fix your boost leak issues cause that just plain nonsense right there. lol

[JacksonMS30]

Mine (14psi) is barely preloaded at all and has no problem hitting 15psi. In fact, I believe its the same for me as it is for driver, with it only taking about 5 rotations to hit 23psi.

[Lex]

Ugh, I really dislike that WG actuator and arm design.

[Chimmike]

Originally Posted by driver311 That is absolutely retarded. Do not do that with the 14psi spring. YOu my friend obviously have a 9-10psi spring. I only have my mbc up 5 full rotations and making 23psi and holding to redline. And with it all the way down I see 15psi. Do not do what he is suggestionign OP. Chimmike you need to contact Mark and get the proper wg for your setup or just fix your boost leak issues cause that just plain nonsense right there. lol

I have the 14psi gate.
manelscout, smnf. Why don't you post? Oh, because you don't have experience with this gtx turbo. That's right. Forgot. gib made 400whp on his setup. I did the exact same thing to my iwg that he did, because I had to.

Before preloading, I was barely able to hit 17psi with stock ebcs and 100% duty cycle, it would stay right around 15psi. After preloading, i hit 20psi on stock ebcs, and on mbc i've seen 22psi easily with capability to go higher if needed, but if I remove and go on spring pressure, it hits 15psi nicely.

The main issue I was having before preload, it wouldn't start hitting double digit boost levels until well BEYOND 5krpm. Anyone who runs these GTX's knows you should be close to your max boost by 5krpm properly set. Now, I'm hitting 18+psi before 4800rpm.

No boost leaks here, either.

[driver311]

Neither me or Jackson have that issue. Must be a gtx3076 issue cause mine spools fine with no preload. Im double digit below 4k.

[JacksonMS30]

I'm double digit before 3500 most of the time. The other difference is boost control. @chimmike, you still using stock bcs? @driver311, you using mbc or ebcs?

[Chimmike]

Originally Posted by JacksonMS30 I'm double digit before 3500 most of the time. The other difference is boost control. @chimmike, you still using stock bcs? @driver311, you using mbc or ebcs?

right now turboxs mbc, but will be installing/tuning grimmspeed this weekend.

Originally Posted by driver311 Neither me or Jackson have that issue. Must be a gtx3076 issue cause mine spools fine with no preload. Im double digit below 4k.

it definitely could be a gtx76 issue. I've posted a couple maps in my build thread, most of 'em are a couple weeks old. Got a log yesterday and will get one today as i've been messing around with timing.

Sorry to get OT, OP.

[Realgib3]

Originally Posted by chimmike right now turboxs mbc, but will be installing/tuning grimmspeed this weekend. it definitely could be a gtx76 issue. I've posted a couple maps in my build thread, most of 'em are a couple weeks old. Got a log yesterday and will get one today as i've been messing around with timing. Sorry to get OT, OP.

It may, for whatever reason be a gtx76 issue but I will back mike up 100% on this. Our issues were litetally EXACTLY the same and preloading the wg a ton just flat out fixed the issue.

My boost control is perfect now and I still have pleanty of wgdc to work with for when I startmy 30+ psi tuning