Corksport Turbo Install

pastry00 · 2015-10-29 11.30.55.jpg (4.57 MB, 113 views)

Hey guys today I have begun my install of the Corksport drop in turbo. So far managed to get the top exhaust manifold heat shield and pb blasted the bolts on the exhaust manifold and other heat shield bolts. Now just going to wait a couple hours while I'm at class and go back to working on my car.

I am very excited to get this installed I hope I will not have any issues. I have a Cobb downpipe installed so I hope I do not have any issues removing the downpipe.

I am getting a e-tune form purple drank tuning and they informed me once I have everything installed I will be hitting 320 horsepower! So I am excited and hope the install go smoothly.
If any one has any pointers or tips please let me know I do not have much experience with this besides changing oil or other minor work on a car. Thanks!

dale_gribble

Take your time, be especially careful with the hard oil drain tube. Make sure your oil feed/drain lines are well seated (and also coolant lines). Use all new crush gaskets for oil feed/coolant feed/drain and make sure the oil drain gasket is in good shape.

Give yourself plenty of time, don't rush it.

pastry00

Ok I will and all new gaskets are supplied with the corksport turbo.

brandontrek

Also report back on how it drives after the install. Good luck!

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

speed23

If you have a speed6, try not to disconnect the lower oil return hardline from the engine block- its a PITA to reconnect...

dale_gribble

Originally Posted by speed23

If you have a speed6, try not to disconnect the lower oil return hardline from the engine block- its a PITA to reconnect...

Lol, I almost did that, but it is fortunately harder than disconnecting from the turbo. That turbo oil drain pipe on MS6 is probably one of the biggest PITAs ever. Not so much the removal, but the blind install and lining up with the gasket and turbo while contorting wrist 90 degress...Arrrrr. That was the hardest part of the install. Speed3 guys will never understand.

Code Monkey

Fuck that line. Or better, that lack of space between the engine and the TC.

MRR

Planning similar upgrade on my MPS6 soon. Nice to get some advise on the do's and don'ts.

MS3Shadow

Originally Posted by MRR

Planning similar upgrade on my MPS6 soon. Nice to get some advise on the do's and don'ts.

nice first post intro. and you can search to find out those do's and don't.

WAMBUSHHHH!

PA member Y U NO NATOR WIT US!!!!!

Good luck with the install! Come bullshit with us in the NATOR PA section if you have any questions. Between the gaying around we do have some decent knowledge should you need it...talk nice enough that might turn into a free handy!

pastry00 · 02:21 PM

Thanks for the input. I will report back once I am done on how it went. Currently 3 of the bolts on the downpipe are stuck so I am working on those. Other then that everything is going good so far!

If anyone can help I am trying to install the corsport bar map sensor but the 7 mm screw that holds it on is stuck and is almost stripped any reccomendations?

pastry00

Never mind I got it. I just have one bolt left on the exhaust manifold to get off and the turbo should be ready to come out. So far I have not ran into that many issues that stumped me for a while. Other then getting a face full of coolant haha

This might sound stupid but to refill the coolant once I'm done I just start the car then fill her up correct? How would I get rid of air bubbles and an reccomendations on coolants?

speed23

Youll need mazda specific coolant or "asian" coolant.

MRR

Thanks,
There is so much info in this forum.
My MPS6 has this mods so far;
TIH 3' with K&N panel filter (want it discrete, Cops here don't want panel filter. Lost of cars get defected)
Turbosmart BOV plumb back (very quite)
CS Boost controller
CS engine and trany mounts
CS Downpipe
CS hi flow Cat
CS HPFP
Denso FP
Street Unit TMIC
DCR VVT cam gear and chain
COBB accessport and race tune software.
From the cat back is stock to keep the car silent and stockish in the eyes of anyone.
Currently running stage 3 98 with a few changes to suite my mods. Boost limited to 18 psi by setting WG duty cycle.
Car wheel spins on second gear every time the turbo kicks in.
Use to own a Nissan 200sx fully modified for racing. This MPS6 is different, its got enormous torque.

MD1032

Originally Posted by MRR

Thanks,
There is so much info in this forum.
My MPS6 has this mods so far;
TIH 3' with K&N panel filter (want it discrete, Cops here don't want panel filter. Lost of cars get defected)
Turbosmart BOV plumb back (very quite)
CS Boost controller
CS engine and trany mounts
CS Downpipe
CS hi flow Cat
CS HPFP
Denso FP
Street Unit TMIC
DCR VVT cam gear and chain
COBB accessport and race tune software.
From the cat back is stock to keep the car silent and stockish in the eyes of anyone.
Currently running stage 3 98 with a few changes to suite my mods. Boost limited to 18 psi by setting WG duty cycle.
Car wheel spins on second gear every time the turbo kicks in.
Use to own a Nissan 200sx fully modified for racing. This MPS6 is different, its got enormous torque.

*blink*

Originally Posted by pastry00

This might sound stupid but to refill the coolant once I'm done I just start the car then fill her up correct? How would I get rid of air bubbles and an reccomendations on coolants?

Not stupid at all. Most Japanese cars, the overflow tank is separate and not under pressure and the rad cap incorporates a check valve to bleed small amounts of air out of the system automatically, and these systems have to be bled of air manually while running in my experience (link to how-to) any time any significant amount of air is introduced (eg coolant flush). MS6's have to deal with this. Mazda3's on the other hand use an expansion tank like Fords, where the overflow tank is part of the pressurized system...therefore the system is self-bleeding and you do not need to do anything but fill it back up if the level drops considerably.

WAMBUSHHHH!

Originally Posted by MRR

Thanks,
There is so much info in this forum.
My MPS6 has this mods so far;
TIH 3' with K&N panel filter (want it discrete, Cops here don't want panel filter. Lost of cars get defected)
Turbosmart BOV plumb back (very quite)
CS Boost controller
CS engine and trany mounts
CS Downpipe
CS hi flow Cat
CS HPFP
Denso FP
Street Unit TMIC
DCR VVT cam gear and chain
COBB accessport and race tune software.
From the cat back is stock to keep the car silent and stockish in the eyes of anyone.
Currently running stage 3 98 with a few changes to suite my mods. Boost limited to 18 psi by setting WG duty cycle.
Car wheel spins on second gear every time the turbo kicks in.
Use to own a Nissan 200sx fully modified for racing. This MPS6 is different, its got enormous torque.

LOL WUT.

MAKE YOUR OWN THREAD, GUY!

pastry00

Finally got the turbo out should be putting the new one in on Sunday. Can't wait to drive my car again.

Freelan3r

Can't wait to hear about the results. I'm relatively new and need to make a thread for my build, but was looking into this after I order my corksport turboback

pastry00

Does anyone know I am about to put the turbo in but when I install the corksport boost control solenoid should I run it in interrupt mode or bleed mode. Which is better and why?

MD1032

I like the simplicity of interrupt from a routing standpoint.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

pastry00

Ok I understand the difference in routing but why would you use one method over the other?

broda

(Simplified version)

In 2 port mode (bleed) it will simulate the stock BCS, but it'll be more responsive and you won't have to tune for it.

If you go 3 port you'll overboost if you don't tune for it, but you'll have more control and should spool a bit quicker when you do. This is what you want with a larger turbo since you should be getting a tune anyway.

Also, nice to see someone else in the area.

pastry00

So I got the turbo in but the car will not start. So far I ruled out the tune and a dead battery. If you guys have any idea of what to look for please let me know. I double checked that I reconnected everything and its all good so I do not know what is wrong?

MD1032

Will it turn over? Did you check for spark?

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pastry00

It will not turn over at all. You hear the fuel pump kicking in but that is it. The car makes no other noise when I turn the key.

5doorsoffury

Common Problems and How to Diagnose
Edit: check the starter cable give it a jiggle.

pastry00

Checked the ground near the HPFP everything seems to be good there. I don't know what is wrong the car will not even try to start.

acemanz

inb4 it's the security system cuz his key fob battery is dead... or he forgot to plug the car in... one of the two fur suuure

Vansquish

Originally Posted by pastry00

Checked the ground near the HPFP everything seems to be good there. I don't know what is wrong the car will not even try to start.

Did you check the grounding wire on the starter?