CrazyP TOPMOUNT BT GTX3076 Build (Easy Breezy PT. 4)

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by jmhinkle Is this for off the turbo? You still running a copy of my top mount setup right? Yes you need these lines to get away from the turbo then you can convert to the Z1 hose from the EGR housing and down to the PTO. Thought everyone knew of this after I kept roasting lines and told everyone to upgrade.

I had fuel line that roasted, and you told me to get some other ones (I forget now, but it was like $60 for 6 feet or something, but it's some sort of silicone, not silicone. Did you fry these as well?

Originally Posted by crazyp Well no-one told me and its not in the sticky lol. But yeah I finally broke down and bought them. Cost me 158 bucks though.

Neglectful OP... I had fuel line on there before that I roasted, bc I couldn't fine coolant line. I'm now using the 'high temp' silicone stuff Joel recommended that I just mentioned.

Do you have part numbers for all that shit, and I can put in OP of Top Mount thread? ...And possibly purchase. I'll check my lines tomorrow. I don't DD my car, fwiw.

[crazyp]

I bought

2 of these Banjo Fitting Kit, (1) Banjo fitting 14mm hole (for 14mm bolt) with -6 AN male flare : atpturbo.com

2 of these Steel braided Hose, -6 AN, for coolant or oil use, 6 inches long : atpturbo.com

and 2 of these Fitting, 3/8" pushlock barb to 6AN Flare, Male to Male, Straight Adapter : atpturbo.com

hope those work. The one on top of the turbo I would make 12 in with a 45 degree angle though aso the silicone doesnt sit on the hot turbo.

oh and ive used the high temp silicone yourtalking about. everything Ive tried has leaked and roasted eventually. I usually just cut the tip and reattach but I finally got fustrated enough to buy this stuff

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by crazyp I bought 2 of these Banjo Fitting Kit, (1) Banjo fitting 14mm hole (for 14mm bolt) with -6 AN male flare : atpturbo.com 2 of these Steel braided Hose, -6 AN, for coolant or oil use, 6 inches long : atpturbo.com and 2 of these Fitting, 3/8" pushlock barb to 6AN Flare, Male to Male, Straight Adapter : atpturbo.com hope those work. The one on top of the turbo I would make 12 in with a 45 degree angle though aso the silicone doesnt sit on the hot turbo. oh and ive used the high temp silicone yourtalking about. everything Ive tried has leaked and roasted eventually. I usually just cut the tip and reattach but I finally got fustrated enough to buy this stuff

They work great. I'll update OP tomorrow. My Sharknado video got interrupted earlier, and it ends tonight.

Shit news on the high temp silicone. I'll have to check mine tomorrow. Those are some pretty gay sounding connectors. "male flare" ... "male-to-male 'straight' adapters"... Straight, yeah right. lol

[jmhinkle]

Hmm. Sorry about that. My lines cost about $35 from ATP and then a few adapter fittings on the side. Probably have about $70 in mine. I used the normal metric to 6an nipples on the turbo then 45 degree swivel 6an fittings to short sections of 6an line one end being a 90 degree adapter and then a 6an to barb fitting. The less you have ATP do, the cheaper it is. I needed the extra 45 swivels because my new arrangement is clocked to clear the T4 housing.

You can see them in these two photos.

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by jmhinkle Hmm. Sorry about that. My lines cost about $35 from ATP and then a few adapter fittings on the side. Probably have about $70 in mine. I used the normal metric to 6an nipples on the turbo then 45 degree swivel 6an fittings to short sections of 6an line one end being a 90 degree adapter and then a 6an to barb fitting. The less you have ATP do, the cheaper it is. I needed the extra 45 swivels because my new arrangement is clocked to clear the T4 housing. You can see them in these two photos.

Looks sweet. If you have time between boats and hoes, linkies would be sweet. Love the routing on the hot pipe btw. I'll put money bags links in, in the meantime

EDIT: Just checked my lines, and they look/feel fine. The coolant in is touching the VC, no prob there, and goes out of the way of heat. The coolant return to PTO I made intentionally short, so it couldn't get anywhere near the DP, or even touch the hotside. Mine may just be OK because I don't drive much... just closing in on 44K miles, maybe 8K on BT? idk

EDIT2: Top Mount OP edited w/ CrazyP crazy links, and reference to previous page of this build thread. Thanks again for the heads ups fellas!

[djuosnteisn]

Hardest part of any build is making things last. That's one thing the oem's are fantastic at, and aftermarket generally lacks.

I'm still so new to the car game in terms of "longevity", and what works / fails over the course of years. It difficult, cause it literally takes "time" to test things out.

What i have learned thus far is heat management and bracing is very important. If something wobbles or flexes a lot while the motor is running, it will eventually break. And if something is in far too hot of a region, it too will eventually fail.

Crazyp, those lines should do the trick, they're expensive, but it's worth the piece of mind.


How's the car running otherwise?

[crazyp]

Originally Posted by djuosnteisn Hardest part of any build is making things last. That's one thing the oem's are fantastic at, and aftermarket generally lacks. I'm still so new to the car game in terms of "longevity", and what works / fails over the course of years. It difficult, cause it literally takes "time" to test things out. What i have learned thus far is heat management and bracing is very important. If something wobbles or flexes a lot while the motor is running, it will eventually break. And if something is in far too hot of a region, it too will eventually fail. Crazyp, those lines should do the trick, they're expensive, but it's worth the piece of mind. How's the car running otherwise?

The car has been running great actually. I just bought the JBR trilogy engine mounts and will try to install them this weekend. The Sure RMM I've to get warrantied because of chewed up bushings. Ive had to regap the plugs a couple of times, but other than that super reliable. I've probably put about 25K miles on this setup so far, I go 300 miles a week and other than over heating from bad coolant lines no problems.

motor's got 66ish k miles.

[dougefresh_]

That is awesome. But the real question @crazyp; is why you so damn crazy?

[crazyp]

cuz crazypuertorican!

[crazyp]

Turbo died, have another on order, oh well

[5LOWMS6]

How dafuq does that happen?

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

[aviator79]

why?

[crazyp]

Originally Posted by aviator79 why?

No freaking idea, was boosting fine saturday, sunday took off on the freeway, tried to pass someone and no boost. heard grinding, turned back around to go home, about 3 miles and heard blades scraping the whole way. took the intake off and supper amounts of play, like a half inch of play. so blades curled from contacting the housing. exhaust housing side did not contact. took it off and oil came out of the outlet to the intercooler.

So plan is, drain oil, take intercooler off for inspection and clean, clean all the piping, sigh take of intake manifold and inspect and clean. check oilfeed line to make sure its not clogged, and then install new turbo when it gets here.

going with a GTX 3071 or GXT3067 not sure yet, I havent officially bought it yet.

[doctavus]

Originally Posted by crazyp No freaking idea, was boosting fine saturday, sunday took off on the freeway, tried to pass someone and no boost. heard grinding, turned back around to go home, about 3 miles and heard blades scraping the whole way. took the intake off and supper amounts of play, like a half inch of play. so blades curled from contacting the housing. exhaust housing side did not contact. took it off and oil came out of the outlet to the intercooler. So plan is, drain oil, take intercooler off for inspection and clean, clean all the piping, sigh take of intake manifold and inspect and clean. check oilfeed line to make sure its not clogged, and then install new turbo when it gets here. going with a GTX 3071 or GXT3067 not sure yet, I havent officially bought it yet.

Damn that sucks, how much boost did it typically see and how many miles did it last?

[crazyp]

Originally Posted by doctavus Damn that sucks, how much boost did it typically see and how many miles did it last?

veraged 24psi throughout its life. never under 22 never over 26.

put about 30K on it

[dougefresh_]

We aint' asking for shit nigga, we taking it.

Here's you at 0:24 nigga! . I hope you're doing well Crazyp!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JEpvRl3LdfM

[unijabnx2000]

Since this seems to be the second turbo to eat itself... think its time to investigate?

[jmhinkle]

Do you have a vacuum line from your valve cover to intake manifold?

[802MS3]

glad to see you still got the car!

[crazyp]

Originally Posted by unijabnx2000 Since this seems to be the second turbo to eat itself... think its time to investigate?

3 years apart, don't think they are related personally.

Now after tearing it all apart I have come to the conclusion thats it's my fault really, I drive this as a daily and for having fun and its been super reliable with minor issues.

So what did I find? All the lower exhaust manifold nuts were loose and one was only held in because the wastegate was in the way. Also my intake mani bolts were not as tight as they could have been. My intake filter has a small hole. So I think I overworked this turbo to death, it was spooling a little slow lol. 25PSI at 3900 rpm.

I also found 3 small cracks inside the turbine housing, 2 where the chra is inserted into it and one on the divider. ATP seems to think its ok, but once I get some more funding I'm going to switch it out. Anyways, new pics after sprucing THE CAR A LITTLE

Originally Posted by jmhinkle Do you have a vacuum line from your valve cover to intake manifold?

No why?

[aviator79]

nice pipe.

[jmhinkle]

Just wanted to make sure because I've seen too many cars pull too much vacuum from it and actually pull oil through turbo like that.

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by crazyp 3 years apart, don't think they are related personally. Now after tearing it all apart I have come to the conclusion thats it's my fault really, I drive this as a daily and for having fun and its been super reliable with minor issues. So what did I find? All the lower exhaust manifold nuts were loose and one was only held in because the wastegate was in the way. Also my intake mani bolts were not as tight as they could have been. My intake filter has a small hole. So I think I overworked this turbo to death, it was spooling a little slow lol. 25PSI at 3900 rpm. I also found 3 small cracks inside the turbine housing, 2 where the chra is inserted into it and one on the divider. ATP seems to think its ok, but once I get some more funding I'm going to switch it out.

Reading this post while not fully liquored is bumming me out. I've had some boost leaks for a couple years (cut me some slack, I had to tcob, cpa exams, etc), but lately the girl has been hurting. I've been going easy on her ever since the rebuild 2 years ago (despite only a 2% difference across all 4 post rebuild).

So, she almost died on the fucking highway the other day under moderate throttle, felt like limp mode. I pulled the codes yesterday... threw 2178, 2188, and our old friend 0335.

The leaks had me rich at idle, which I knew, and due to (enter bs excuse here), I just added fuel at idle as necessary to pass inspection. I had zeroed out the maf at early volts per Ziggy et al, and hadn't seen the P0335 in ages. But she almost went down the other day... and I have new plugs coming, and an oil change and fluid change on the way.

So I guess if I were you guys I'd say 'finish your long over-do tune up homo, fix all your boost leaks, recalibrate maf, and stfu.' I may be out of touch, but I get it. guh, nigga I don't have time for car problems. I'm just paranoid, and reading this, I'm like "my turbo is probably shot too."



EDIT: Have been getting on it a few times lately.. turbo lag is like a 35R with ADD... I think boost leaks would just be overpowered, unless some sniper has been putting 50 Cal sniper shots into my engine bay. But wtf do I know. @crazyp; @jmhinkle; @DeezNuts; HAHAHA I didn't know deeznuts was a user name. That was supposed to be a joke. Feel free to chime in, after watching the first 13 secs of my vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3VuEPH_6Lyk

[crazyp]

@dougefresh_ how many miles have you put on your topmount? I know I've put about 40k, so not to bad I think

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by crazyp @dougefresh_ how many miles have you put on your topmount? I know I've put about 40k, so not to bad I think

That's a good question. I only have 45K miles on my car. I think maybe 10-15K? I just got some new plugs because I was thinking it was near 15K.

[jmhinkle]

I put 25k on this setup with nothing but balls out abuse. I've got about 7500 on the new motor and setup.

[dougefresh_]

Popped in some new itv22s gapped to about .027 and she runs a bit smoother, but still breaking up under wot. I need to fix me leaks, and maf, and think I'll be gud. I'm glad I at least got the new butt plugs in.

[jmhinkle]

Gap is way to big. .24 to .25 is all mine will take.

[crazyp]

Originally Posted by jmhinkle Gap is way to big. .24 to .25 is all mine will take.

.24 on mine. no blowout that way

[dougefresh_]

Hmm.... It's been so damn long. I'm only running 22/23psi, and last I recall running the hottest plugs at wider gap was best? Well, the I def recall the hottest plug part. I used to have to gap my 24s at .022-.024 @24/5psi or it's was birthday cake time. Cunt, now I have to regap them bitches down, huh? Thanks for the pro tips.

I know this is basic shit, but I've been filling my little skull with other non-essential data for the past couple of years. And I appreciate the input. She just needs a little TLC and she'll be good. Thanks again fellas!