Mazdaspeed Forums - First Romanian BT MS3

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First Romanian BT MS3

My profile matches pretty much any MSF'er profile here that become passionate about his car and thought seriously about modding it.So I got the car in April 2008, the 8th from my country and the second Cosmic blue (there are only 2 Cosmic Blue here in .ro even now when there are more than 25 MS3's).

I left it bone stock for 2 years, and in April 2010 I began modding:
- Bilstein B14 PSS9 coil overs;
- AutoEXE front brake pads;
- Street Unit TMIC;
- Cobb SRI;
- Denso ITV22;
- TurboSmart BPV;
- Full SU engine mount kit;
- SSR TypeF 7.5x18 with Michelin PS3 225/40/ZR18 tires,
...all done in one day.
When I first started my car next day in the morning when I've got it back from the shop it was a completely different animal: insanely loud and glued to the ground.

After just one week I switched back to the stock side engine mounts and from that moment on it was VERY clear to me that whatever I change with aftermarket parts needs to preserve de ride quality and decency. This was, still is and will be my daily driver for as long as it will hold in one piece. I've put 75k miles so far on it, and even though I could easily get another car for DD I wouldn't be able to live with the thought that my actual soul car sits in some parking lot and I'm not enjoying it every moment I'm behind a wheel.

After a few months I switched back to the stock RMM with the CS inserts and this is how it is now (I also took advantage of that occasion and fitted the CS CAI BOX). I had a tentative of switching to the CP-E RMM a few months ago before I went BT but despite the fact is was fitted by a professional who also followed by advice on torque specs and bolt torquing order it was clunking and the aluminium washers were squealing when they were rubbing against the rubber bush.

After fitting the TMIC, intake and BPV of course problems started to arise: was getting throttle reduction due to increased boost (the boost was holding straight to 17.5PSI on my DashDaq).
I already had the Drew Tech DashDaq since September 2009 as I knew I will begin modding and monitoring came first.

Since it was clear that I began with the wrong foot in September 2010 I finally got a tune: Hypertech.

In November last year (2011) after, I could say, years of research I purchased the Ultimate Racing Downpipe (400 cels ceramic cat) and the resonated test pipe. Sound levels remained decent and the cabin comfort ok. During winter (at around +4C/40F) with the current set of mods at that time I was getting 310-313BHP on the VD with the DynoJet emulation.

But now since I had the downpipe I thought that I could use more boost up top and for that I needed a better tune, so I switched to Versatuner.

Problems began again. There was a mixture of them actually, most of them MAF cal related because during winter the set of gas additives is significantly different and caused MAF table variations of 5-8%. because I was tuning alone and I was scared to death to push the acceleration pedal I aimed for richer AFR's at first (targetting AFR 10.0 at 6000+ RPM for load above 1.5 and no more than 11 anywhere in the rev range for load above 1.6) which seemed to affect the ability of the stock fuel pump to deliver fuel in the mid range at high boost (19.5-20PSI around 4k rpm).

So I switched back to Hypertech happy I still had the engine in tip-top shape and purchased the Autotech FP internals from Edge.

...then I thought... what the fuck am I actually doing and what are my tuning goals? Monster torque with 21PSI at 4k RPM with good fueling and still blow 15-16-17PSI of fire into the engine anywhere above 5k rpm and get no more than 300bhp? No! I'm doing it right this time! So after a few days I contacted Eric from Edge again and told him to put together a GTX3071T BT kit.

http://s16.postimage.org/d9g9czr1t/IMAG0023.jpg http://s17.postimage.org/4qjuby1mj/IMAG0028.jpg

At about the same time I contacted Alex from Stratified and booked a month of tuning for late March/April. The shop I was servicing my car at was also put en-garde and warned that I may bring some parts in that they don't work with on a regular basis.

Fitted all parts in late March this year at 103k km on the clock (about 65k miles), got the base tune from Alex and then began tuning. And this is how this became the first Big Turbo Mazda 3 MPS/MS3 in Romania. Or actually the first Big Turbo 2.3 DISI Turbo engine here.

In the meanwhile I've also got the Bosch 3BAR MAP sensor because I wasn't happy with only 21-21.5PSI.

So here I am after almost 10k miles of BT fun, with a decent daily driver that my wife and daughter are happy with. Long trips (300-400 and even 800 miles a day) are not a problem, power is there anytime I want it and when I don't the only thing that sings into my ears is the light engine sound and the wind.

Bebe liked it! - YouTube

The microphone is on the dash so it may record louder than it actually feels in the car. The radio is always at 6 max 7 - so that you have a point of reference.

Here I was gathering logs to send over to Lex to review the results of a 20PSI tune version (speed read from GPS):

Logging... - YouTube

This car is and will be for daily use. I intend to track it whenever I have the occasion but that's not something I intend to do a lot. We don't really have good trakcs here in Romania and we have to go to Hungary or Germany for that.
This year my brakes failed after 4-5 laps on the EuroRing in Hungary and I had to drive like I was on the public roads. Here is my track FAIL:

EuroRing 20120603 almost-no-brakes - YouTube

You appreciate our tuning and hardpart vendors.. We appreciate your female gymnast :)

Because gypsy.

Nice ride.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dmurray06 (Post 1575534)

Because gypsy.

Nice ride.

You're making a confusion my friend and I'm not going to start an ethnology lesson with you here, but thanks.

Nice to see you post here :) Little does everyone know that some 19 years ago I also came from Romania! Very happy to help a fellow Romanian out! Yes, I know I owe you a map and it will be on its way today :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by mituc (Post 1575545)

You're making a confusion my friend and I'm not going to start an ethnology lesson with you here, but thanks.

I seen it on the tv, everyone from romania is a gypsy.

I joke. I joke.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dmurray06 (Post 1575754)

I seen it on the tv, everyone from romania is a gypsy.

I joke. I joke.

Hide your silverware!

I also came from Romania 28 yrs ago..... I was born in Timisoara.

Che my fach?! I don't know how to spell it so I sounded it out:)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lex (Post 1575588)

Quote:

Originally Posted by drknyte (Post 1576558)

I also came from Romania 28 yrs ago..... I was born in Timisoara.

Che my fach?! I don't know how to spell it so I sounded it out:)

Now, that makes me feel like home here, as if I wasn't feeling good enough already :) Good to see you all doing well over there and making us here proud!
As for the answer to your question, "Fac bine, multumesc!" :)

Haha, the Romanian MSF Nator is born :)

I am locking my car.

You really need to do that man... :) As stated in the initial post I'm still deciding if I'll go forged this winter or not, and if I will I intend to get the OEM genpu pistons which means that you have what I need and it's right there with no additional costs. And you never know with this epic "gypsy" gang tripping around... :D

Very nice overall build you have going on OP.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lex (Post 1576656)

Haha, the Romanian MSF Nator is born :)

:) Lex, I am a neighbour from Bulgaria. Can I join?

@mituc nice build man. Keep it up! You must be very unique with you MPS 3 in Romania. I just came back from BG and I can barely see any regular 3. If I see an MPS 3 in Europe I will be super excited :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by mituc (Post 1576629)

Yeah, I can't tell you how happy I was when you told me where you were born :)
As for the new map... It worth the wait as always man, thank you! :) I'll go out and take some logs Monday at 6am and then another set later at 2pm, the very hot weather is back, we have 70F in the early AM and 102 in the afternoon. Crazy continental weather! I bet that from like 4 months from now we'll have again 20/30 below 0.

Now, that makes me feel like home here, as if I wasn't feeling good enough already :) Good to see you all doing well over there and making us here proud!
As for the answer to your question, "Fac bine, multumesc!" :)

She yo fac bine. Yo pawt sa am marre turbo!?

Yeah, everybody can have a big turbo. The only problem is if you want to spend that money on it I guess :)

We're getting close to finishing my 24PSI tune which I think it's the maximum we can get safe on pump gas and stock internals.
The tiny wastegate (which I did not port prior to installing the turbo) and the GrimmSpeed prove to be a bit hard to tune but I just hope I'll not have to go back to the 23PSI tune simply because I like the idea of 24 being greater than 23 :) But as always Lex will do some magic and beat the faulty hardware :)

Once this is done I'll just replace the CS inserts once again (they endured a lot in the last 5-6k miles :) ) and then put the car on dyno (dynojet).
I'm not even sure what power I should expect but I guess like 340-350bhp or so (at least this is where the Virtual Dyno says I'm at), as even if the turbo is flowing more than 320g/s (getting pretty close to 330 and exceeding it occasionally) the advance timing it tuned for the shitty pump gas.

Sometime last week Lex gave me a final version of the map at the final of the second top-up tune session. I'm still taking logs and doing tests to find some flaws especially considering that in the past there were some boost control issues (due to who knows what, Grimmspeed, the lack of boost control tables in Versatuner, the small unported wastegate and possibly the V1 UR downpipe as I didn't know until recently they actually released another version for BT builds).
And no, no flaws, it's perfect, I'll have to send @Lex some logs as well and see if he sees anything that needs more tweaking. I'll just take the car to a local dyno in a cold morning and see how she does at +20C/70F ambient temp.

Here I am, me playing, after bolting a camera on the steering wheel (camera is focusing anywhere but where I wish it to - sorry for that):

60-220 ? - YouTube

But that was yesterday. Today the Cobb XLE BPV finally came in, the delivery was delayed quite a big because of the Lufthansa personnel strike and I fitted it 2 hours after I received it. I also changed the air filter with this occasion, it only had about 4.7k km which is almost 3k miles:

http://s8.postimage.org/iyh772pht/IMAG0267.jpg http://s14.postimage.org/hsg6w653x/IMAG0268.jpg http://s11.postimage.org/62b4fe77z/IMAG0269.jpg http://s13.postimage.org/ct2wpiexv/IMAG0270.jpg

http://s16.postimage.org/azsnevxtd/IMAG0271.jpg http://s7.postimage.org/gdwwfdqiv/IMAG0272.jpg http://s15.postimage.org/8lmlezrmv/IMAG0273.jpg

http://s17.postimage.org/kziyh1rez/IMAG0274.jpg http://s12.postimage.org/b8okflohl/IMAG0276.jpg

And here's a picture of the inside of the "dirty" filter and the old valve:

http://s17.postimage.org/664awajnv/IMAG0275.jpg http://s7.postimage.org/kyno81zlz/IMAG0277.jpg[/quote]

The Cobb valve had some ARP grease in it, not sure if I had to lube it so I just let two drops of Turbosmart oil to get on the piston. As far as I can tell, if using oil the valve can be serviced by removing the backing plate.
I also wanted it to vent sooner to keep the turbo spooling as much as possible, as these big turbo snails are a bitch to spool especially if you're below like 4k rpm, so I dialed the pre-load screw just 90 degrees counter-clockwise. And yes, the tests I did today after installing the valve came out as I wanted, pretty much. And this valve is also quieter than the old turbosmart, probably mainly because now it vents sooner and less violent.

Last Friday I also asked the car shop I'm working with (a Mazda dealer :) ) for a quote for replacing the rods. I also intend to replace the timing chain and VVT (with the DCR version), clutch disk and pressure plate, and so on. At this point I'm thinking to go with OEM gen2 pistons just to avoid any weird problems due to the high temperature variations here (-30 or even -35C during winter, that's -20 - -30 F, and up to +40-42C during summer, 104-107F) such as piston slap or whatever.
Also, in this case during the break-in there's going to be virtually no metal powder in the exhaust to weaken the turbine wheel as it would probably be if I'd choose to put some forged pistons in. But that's something that I still need to look into, re-read the threads about going forged and make a decision, I should have plenty of time until in December or January when I think I'm going to take this step.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mituc (Post 1610008)

Last Friday I also asked the car shop I'm working with (a Mazda dealer :) ) for a quote for replacing the rods. I also intend to replace the timing chain and VVT (with the DCR version), clutch disk and pressure plate, and so on. At this point I'm thinking to go with OEM gen2 pistons just to avoid any weird problems due to the high temperature variations here (-30 or even -35C during winter, that's -20 - -30 F, and up to +40-42C during summer, 104-107F) such as piston slap or whatever.
Also, in this case during the break-in there's going to be virtually no metal powder in the exhaust to weaken the turbine wheel as it would probably be if I'd choose to put some forged pistons in. But that's something that I still need to look into, re-read the threads about going forged and make a decision, I should have plenty of time until in December or January when I think I'm going to take this step.

Ok, quote came in. For swapping the timing/VVT, rods, pistons, valves, cleaning up the head, installing new clutch, with everything this means in therms of labor their quote was around $800 or so. So I may be able to do this.

Now, I need to acquire as many of the parts I need because the OEM ones seem to be pretty expensive here (timing chain by example is like $200 while I can get it from the US for less than half of that).

My main concern is the pistons and here's where I could use some advice.
First of all I want to go with stock size for everything: stroke, bore, wrist pin.
Secondly, I want as less engine noise as possible. Less noise than stock is good.
Also, considering the extreme temperatures here I'd also like to minimize or eliminate the piston slap in cold weather that the aftermarket forged pistons tend to have (which I never actually had with the stock pistons).
Can anyone point me to the right pistons (and rods) that would provide what I want? Remember, stock feel and ride decency is always important to me even though a bit of noise just right after starting the car and before moving is not going to be the end of the world.

@BlueStreak, @chimmike, @Lex, @eric@edgeautosport, @superskaterxes, @cld12pk2go, @MS3-a(sore)ASS-rex, @06Speed6, @Haltech

w.r.t. rods, go with whatever you like. I have Carillo H beams in mine and they are definitely overkill. Many people run the K1s and are happy with them.

If piston slap is an issue, a forged piston is not the way to go. Anything below 5*C and my gen 1 Wiseco pistons chatter but it generally goes away after a minute or two. |if I were to do it again, I'd get a Gen2 style piston.

And finally, if you're going full aftermarket on the piston/rod combo, get whatever wrist pin matches both sets. Stock size isn't necessary if you don't have to keep it IMO.

I'd like the rods to not require any machining. I've heard that some of the cheaper ones do. So I guess I'll choose K1 for the rods.

Gen2 pistons, Carrillo rods for OEM wrist pin size.

Also that price on labor is very cheap!!

After checking with Lex and a few other people from the car shop I'm using for periodic inspections and oil changes I decided to wait a bit more on forging the engine, at least until it will first consume just a bit of oil. I have 120k km now (that is like 75k miles) and 17k km (10.5k miles) since I have a big turbo and the engine never touched the oil.

Sometime last week Lex finished the last top-up tuning session, so I've put the car on a dyno. SO here's where I was before going big turbo, with flow mods, stock turbo and Hypertech, and where I am now:

http://s7.postimage.org/k95zksszb/Ma...ted_stage2.jpg http://s10.postimage.org/meu6grlmd/M...ncorrected.jpg

The maximum torque is just a tad higher, 419.60Nm/309lb*ft with hypertech versus 438.55Nm/323lb*ft with the GTX. However, before I was above 400Nm (almost 300lb*ft) between 2900rpm and around 4300rpm, now I'm above that between 3650 and about 6100rpm. So the torque is higher where it matters, because down low high torque means just wheel spin and I also hate diesels.

Considering that I'm using pump gas, stock engine, stock clutch, stock mounts (CS inserts on a brand new OEM RMM - and that's all) I'm pleased with the results. The tune I ended up with tops at about 25psi (270kpa MAP throttle reduction limit which I exceed sometimes, and 275kpa MAP fuel cut limit) and probably I'd hit the fueling system limits just a bit over that since the injector duty cycle at 347-350g/s is around 93-94%.

50-75mph time (3rd gear) is around 2.3-2.4s and 60-100 (in 4th) is 5.1-5.2, so I think I'm where I was supposed to be in therms of power and acceleration.

Now I'm back on winter tires so no more 5th gear full WOT pulls (the winter tires I have are rated up to 210Kmph, about 15Kmph lower than the maximum speed in 5th).

And @Lex is the man! Not only he happened to tune the first (and only so far) BT MS3 in my country which is also his country of origin, but his skills, patience for reading the walls of text I was sending him every time when I was thrilled with the results (and I was pretty much every time) and finally the outcome of the whole process which is basically the fruit of his knowledge and professionalism totally recommend him.
Thank you Alex, everything is smooth and stable, we'll get back in touch when I'll go forged and add some additional fueling :) ...Or when I'll finally manage to convert a few other locals from stock tunes to VT or Cobb AP :)

I didn't see this latest post - thank you @mituc - it was my pleasure!

At 95% IDC we have about 10-15% IDC before really running out of fuel. Things get wacky after 110% IDC. However, the biggest thing holding this back at the moment is timing (more so than flow and boost) and to increase timing we need more octane. Any options for higher octane or fuel mixes in Romania? A WMI also won't hurt.

Finally, boost control is key and this was the toughest bit here. I have something just around the corner that should really help these situations out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lex (Post 1721560)

However, the biggest thing holding this back at the moment is timing (more so than flow and boost) and to increase timing we need more octane. Any options for higher octane or fuel mixes in Romania? A WMI also won't hurt.

Nope, there aren't any at the moment. I can source some race gas but when I started tuning the idea was to go as fast and as safe as possible with what I can find on the road, and that is 100-101RON pump gas, washer liquid, water, and chocolate :) .
That's why I didn't install WMI or didn't bother too much to find some alcohol of some sort.

As far as I understand Aral and/or BP sell some 102 RON gas in Germany which seems to be a lot more knock resistant than the 101RON we have here (and which was the most knock resistant gas between Romania and Holland until like 2 years ago, Rompetrol Alto 101). That 102RON gas from Aral/BP is an E10 mix, while the pump gas I'm using "may have ethanol but no more than 5%" - at least that's what they say and we've seen that varying as you probably remember my MAF cal being right at some point a bit off not even a month later.

So for now boost was the answer, and from what I've logged the highest calculated injector DC was 94% I think and was at a pretty high MAF g/s reading (above 350g/s IIRC) and a bit of KR which resulted in a richer AFR.

So you say things get wacky at 110% DC, but I guess at 100% there's a pretty high chance for the fuel injection process to continue in the exhaust stroke, right? Or that happens also at 110%?

Yeah it will start creeping into the power stroke, not the exhaust ... from what I've seen 110% is the upper IDC limit but keeping things at 100-105 is probably a good idea for everyday.

What's with all the gypsy hate?

What head unit is that?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Domino81 (Post 1722172)

What head unit is that?

Caska CA3635.

Ok, because it's winter, lots of snow, the roads are dirty and full of snow, and so on, there's nothing I can do apart from some interior styling.

http://s7.postimage.org/mubdrqb6f/IMAG0443.jpg http://s9.postimage.org/kadmpgd0r/IMAG0444.jpg
http://s7.postimage.org/s84gqufyf/IMAG0427.jpg http://s8.postimage.org/6miwdd33l/IMAG0428.jpg http://s8.postimage.org/3uzmmr4kx/IMAG0429.jpg
http://s12.postimage.org/qecagw1rd/IMAG0430.jpg http://s9.postimage.org/41m1xntgr/IMAG0431.jpg

So I've got myself for Christmas a Mazda MX-5 illuminated shift knob and installed it today.

http://s8.postimage.org/ft7j8jh9d/IMAG0451.jpg http://s11.postimage.org/gcul4xxrz/IMAG0448.jpg http://s10.postimage.org/68os14stx/IMAG0449.jpg http://s13.postimage.org/ilgo38h4z/IMAG0450.jpg

Pulled the top ring of the shifter boot, drilled it and glued it back upside down. Before:
http://s8.postimage.org/ft7j8jh9d/IMAG0451.jpg

And after:
http://s8.postimage.org/p7omnzmc1/IMAG0455.jpg

Since I had the OEM shifter in a drawer somewhere and the car was buried under snow I exercised the installation using the OEM boot and OEM shifter twice. It can be done, just that you need to glue the top ring back with that hole towards the center console, not on a side like I did.

...And the actual install today:

http://s13.postimage.org/jzvbof36r/IMAG0459.jpg http://s9.postimage.org/qwrqw7da3/IMAG0460.jpg http://s14.postimage.org/xmrbq2f5p/IMAG0461.jpg

http://s13.postimage.org/h0t0f1j37/IMAG0463.jpg http://s1.postimage.org/7gkkzq1vf/IMAG0462.jpg

http://s7.postimage.org/b7cr4tpjr/IMAG0464.jpg http://s2.postimage.org/9tkifwu3p/IMAG0465.jpg

http://s9.postimage.org/mkkro8cu3/IMAG0466.jpg http://s7.postimage.org/f3gw9bvrr/IMAG0468.jpg http://s9.postimage.org/sht8isjcr/IMAG0469.jpg
http://s2.postimage.org/iz2219c9x/IMAG0470.jpg http://s1.postimage.org/s3n2q9pff/IMAG0471.jpg http://s1.postimage.org/42g6otam3/IMAG0472.jpg

http://s14.postimage.org/4obx0m4ot/IMAG0473.jpg http://s8.postimage.org/mze6b70fl/IMAG0474.jpg http://s8.postimage.org/49qs86x2p/IMAG0475.jpg

http://s7.postimage.org/gzi21v5g7/IMAG0476.jpg http://s7.postimage.org/hirqovm8n/IMAG0478.jpg

Mazda MX5 NC illuminated shift knob on a 3 MPS/Mazdaspeed3 2008 - YouTube

For the power feed I tapped into the heated seat light. The heated seat control module has 5 wires going to it: 3 thicker pink ones and I think only 2 of them are actually used and 2 thinner wires on the other side of the connector. Those are the wires you need to tap into so that you can also dim the shifter knob light from the central dimming control button.

The illuminated knob is an OEM part for the MX5. Installing it on a stock shifter on a mazda 3 or speed3 is still possible, but you need to make some coils from that wire around the lever. Those coils will undo while you thread the knob in. Since there's not enough room in that top boot ring because the wires are pretty thick (you can replace them with some thinner ones though) you can only make like 6-7 coils while you actually need 9 or 10. Well, when you thread the knob in at the end there are going to be 3 coils created in the opposite direction.
I tested this twice using the OEM shifter and OEM boot and there was no damage on the wires, knob, boot leather or know connector. It's possible but requires more attention, is going to be more frustrating but at the end it will look perfect.

After I installed the Cobb shifter I didn't feel necessary to keep the JBR heavy knob. Even if its functionality is noticeable with the OEM shifter, when moving to a shorter shifter you will have to push the lever into the position harder anyway. And the JBR was not that ergonomic either. So that's how I came to spend like $250 on a new OEM MX5 knob.

Looks nice - and I'm jealous of your gen1 heated seats.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lex (Post 1812573)

Looks nice - and I'm jealous of your gen1 heated seats.

Gen1's in Canada never came which heated seats?

!! Canada is even colder than Romania, heated seats make even more sense there :)

Here the heated seats and xenon head lamps were always standard. Cruise control and MP3 for the 6 cd head unit became standard after May 2008 (I had to fit CC later), and navigation always was optional but you could get it for like $800 or so (or whatever 650Euro was at that time).

I think you guys there have at least two packages while here there always was only one and the only option you could add to the "MPS" package was that folding navigation.

Ah, and we never had that aero rear spoiler available, only the chaps in the UK did as the "MPS Aero" package which also included different dampers and springs (I think the MPS Aero was 10 more mm lower).

Lots of differences between these models all over the world...

However, everything is already there, so if you want heated seats probably all you need to do is to acquire the control modules and the actual seat heaters, I'm 95% sure all the cabling is already done (like it's with the cruise control, navi, and who knows what else).

The Gen1 never had ANY options in Canada aside form colour.

We got the GT model from the states (HID, led tails, MP3 Bose, etc) without the leather bolsters, without the Navi, and without heated seats. Our seats are full cloth.

O ya, and it was 36k after taxes.

In Vancouver we just get rain for the most part ... not so much snow but the Mazda3 GT got the heated seats so I dunno. I guess the extra excitement of driving the MS3 should warm up the old cockles :)

In Finland, it was 37k euros and had an option with xenons, leather & better sound system.

It looks like the northern countries have some pretty big taxes :) I'm not sure about Sweden, but Norway, Denmark and Finland, and looks like Canada too.

Yeah, hi taxes, especially everything related to cars is under taxman's special attention...

I forgot to say, it's nice build you have there! I'm considering a MT build myself (BNR S3) and Lex's help with tuning it.

Thanks!
If you have a stock block the BNR S3 or the GTX28 series may be even better than the 3071. You will hit the same peak numbers for torque and power but the engine will respond better in the mid/low range where with a GTX3071 the figures are very low and pretty far away from even the most conservative safety limits (or even the stock figures :) ). Good luck!

After I received the last revision of the tune from Lex in mid October I couldn't just stay put and I started (again) to self tune a bit. The outcome is not bad at all, instead of a pretty flat torque curve between 3700ish an 6100rpm now it's pretty flat up to 6500 or so.

This happened after I added about one more degree of timing above 6000rpm and about half a PSI of boost.
I dynoed the car with this tune but for some reason the BAT's never went below 46-48C, probably the fan in that garage was not powerful enough and the car heatsoaked after idling it a few good minutes before I entered the garage with the engine already hot due to some pulls I did before going there.
But at least I saw how the car would perform in 30C/85F weather :) About 8hp below the previous dyno while the MAF g/s was :).

After doing this a week or so in October the entire month of November, both in warm weather (15-23C/60-75F) and cold (0C/32F) I decided that I can't give up on how the car performs in this kind of weather and that I don't want to see less than 335-340g/s of air near redline at WOT (at 0C/32F ambient I've seen 358-360 at 11.5 degrees of timing).

So the solution iisss... a meth kit! :) I intend to inject only water and only for the cooling effect. I may up the timing a bit and eventually add some denatured alcohol (10% max) for its evaporative properties.
I took a peek today in the engine bay and it should be enough room under the air box for a 2, maybe even 3 quart tank. I will have to fabricate a fill up tube because the air box will stay in the way but it should be fine.
These two threads inspired me, in this order:
http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...install-25050/
http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...venture-82578/

Oldies but goldies.

Now I have to decide for a meth kit. I intend to start spraying around 15-16PSI and go to full flow around 20PSI. Not sure which nozzle I should use for only water but probably a D05, maybe D07.
...And maybe use a D02 or 3 to spray the TMIC at the same time, not sure. But why not?!

The only good candidates on my list right now are the DO DVC-30 Stage 2 or the Snow Performance Stage3 EFI. Not sure if the Snow performance worth almost twice the price just for having in the cabin that controller which also displays boost and water injector DC.
Any recommendations here?
Just keep in mind that I acquire this kit to inject only water now, but in future I may want to go to a 30/70 or 50/50 water/meth mix.

Wow, looks like you are coming along quite well. As for meth location, @Lex; recommend I use the stock washer fluid tank. It saves a lot of work and fabricating. Also some washer fluid contains methanol, long as it doesn't have glycol, you'll be fine spraying it. As for DO vs. Snow: IMO Snow is a better quality kit, but it's the price point that made me go with DO. If decide to go with DO just inspect your check valve every once in awhile, they have been know to fail. Or you can spend an extra few bucks an get a solenoid valve which is a better option. Also, I don't think the IC spray will be required once you install a WMI kit, you bats MAY drop below ambient, which is all you can ask for. And I wouldn't want to spray any % of meth on top on my engine.