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 Old 10-05-2011, 03:35 AM   #81
 
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What say you about maf housings? Where will the stock take you before it maxes out. I'm thinking a 3" should be able to handle 400whp. Don't want to do CP-e's 200+ pipe of aluminum and filter.
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 Old 10-05-2011, 08:12 AM   #82
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the stock is good for 400whp
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 Old 10-05-2011, 01:43 PM   #83
 
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Originally Posted by eric@edgeautosport View Post
ttt who needs BT?
Group Buy???
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 Old 10-05-2011, 01:56 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by phil_66666 View Post
Group Buy???
look at the price in my sig
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 Old 10-05-2011, 01:58 PM   #85
 
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Damn good price...too bad I'm poor. Once the GI Bill money rolls in over the winter, I'll be hitting you guys up
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 Old 10-05-2011, 02:05 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by Don06speed6 View Post
Damn good price...too bad I'm poor. Once the GI Bill money rolls in over the winter, I'll be hitting you guys up
cool let me know and we will get you taken care of!
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 Old 10-05-2011, 03:27 PM   #87
 
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Originally Posted by eric@edgeautosport View Post
look at the price in my sig
What is inclued in the kit? turbo, all needed line?
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 Old 10-05-2011, 03:31 PM   #88
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yup all you need after is a big turbo inlet.
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 Old 10-05-2011, 04:02 PM   #89
 
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Originally Posted by exftw View Post
Now i got a question about injector seals. ive done my readup on them and they seem to be useful, but im trying to not get "extra" stuff that i really dont need or could get later.
what are the benefits of them being installed?
Originally Posted by eric@edgeautosport View Post
If they are not leaking then there is no need to replace them until they start to fail.
But if for some reason (installing TIG or something like that) you are gonna have the intake mani off, it would be wise to go ahead and take preventative action so you don't have to remove the intake mani a second time...
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 Old 10-05-2011, 04:05 PM   #90
 
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Default Going Big Turbo...what's necessary...not a question lol

What's the easist way to know if they are leaking?

I'm going bt soon and was wondering the same thing, if its necessary for the build.

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 Old 10-05-2011, 04:10 PM   #91
 
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There is no really easy way to tell. I suppose you could get under your car with a flashlight and a mirror and stick the mirror up between the intake mani and the block and look to see if there is any gas stains or pooling. But in order to be for sure, you pretty much just have to pull the intake manifold and take a look.
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 Old 10-05-2011, 04:21 PM   #92
 
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I would pull it off, but I'm way to hesitant to because of the horror stories I've read about cracking the mani if not done correctly.

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 Old 10-05-2011, 05:08 PM   #93
 
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The cracking was not from simply pulling the IM, just from unevenly/over-tightening with the SURE TIG.
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 Old 10-05-2011, 06:57 PM   #94
 
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Hmmm I think I might reconsider doing the tigs/checking my seals now. I have a torque wrench so over tightening shouldn't be an issue, I could evenly tighten them as well, I'm not that much of a noob lol.

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 Old 10-05-2011, 07:20 PM   #95
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you can tell if they are blown by getting consistant kr and eventually it will increase and they do have an interesting sound. It would sound like a pen tapping on glass. Also I would not change them if they are not leaking cause it would just cause more chance of them leaking down the road due to some other error imo
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 Old 10-05-2011, 07:48 PM   #96
 
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Originally Posted by eric@edgeautosport View Post
you can tell if they are blown by getting consistant kr and eventually it will increase and they do have an interesting sound. It would sound like a pen tapping on glass. Also I would not change them if they are not leaking cause it would just cause more chance of them leaking down the road due to some other error imo

Well right now I get little to no knock. Occasionally I will get .03 but that's nothing lol. At least now I know I can scratch off that part off the to do list until I need to replace them thanks guys!

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 Old 10-19-2011, 03:08 PM   #97
 
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When would you expect to see the consistent KR? At cruise, WOT?
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 Old 10-19-2011, 03:15 PM   #98
 
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Consistent at WOT.

Cylinder pressures should not be high enough to cause the seals to leak at PT, unless they are really bad.
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 Old 10-19-2011, 03:44 PM   #99
 
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Originally Posted by wolly6973 View Post
Consistent at WOT.

Cylinder pressures should not be high enough to cause the seals to leak at PT, unless they are really bad.
Thanks Wolly - that's what I figured...(not to change the topic of the thread)...do you know if bad seals will cause KR with E85 mix?
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 Old 10-19-2011, 03:44 PM   #100
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bad seals will cause kr with any fuel
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 Old 10-20-2011, 06:30 AM   #101
 
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Right, but if you put in e85 and the KR goes away, you can rule out the seals.
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 Old 10-20-2011, 07:12 AM   #102
 
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does edge ship an install manual with pics and such? i think that would be a pretty neat service to provide since eric has done it so often.

or does the ATP kit include lots of info?


and yes i know lenny and 10 million other dudes have super long writeups but it would be nice to have a "vendor" official version.





question #2 - i have ETC TMIC and stock bypass valve. is that oem guy gonna hold up? or is it like the injector seals just leave it until it is broken?


last question - eric or any other BT guys are you monitoring your compression? like a before BT and after? i see a lot of guys like lenny doing it at 70k, 50k miles so just wondering how these motors are doing?
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 Old 10-20-2011, 07:23 AM   #103
 
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Originally Posted by martin_nj View Post
does edge ship an install manual with pics and such? i think that would be a pretty neat service to provide since eric has done it so often.

or does the ATP kit include lots of info?


and yes i know lenny and 10 million other dudes have super long writeups but it would be nice to have a "vendor" official version.





question #2 - i have ETC TMIC and stock bypass valve. is that oem guy gonna hold up? or is it like the injector seals just leave it until it is broken?


last question - eric or any other BT guys are you monitoring your compression? like a before BT and after? i see a lot of guys like lenny doing it at 70k, 50k miles so just wondering how these motors are doing?
As far as I know theres no vendor docs. Just read the how tos. It is ready and straight forward.

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 Old 10-20-2011, 07:26 AM   #104
 
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Originally Posted by stang9779 View Post
Just read the how tos.
oh i have read them all =]
and i will read again before i do mine.

but some guys have different tools, others are doing it on a lift, so all these variable can make a 2 hour job into a 6 hour job...

so that is why i thought an "official" version with all the right tools and everything done correctly would be nice to have. not required, just nice
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 Old 10-20-2011, 11:15 AM   #105
 
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NATOR NJ is all you need for the install
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 Old 10-20-2011, 04:24 PM   #106
 
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Ziggo's How-To lists all the tools you need and was a great help to me.
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 Old 01-04-2012, 12:46 AM   #107
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Well it's january 4th, I leave for California for a few months on the 19th, if I didn't have to worry about a tune I would order and install my turbo in the next 2 weeks and drive it to san Diego, but without a tune guess I'm sol! How long does the install typically take?
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 Old 01-04-2012, 01:08 AM   #108
 
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Originally Posted by Hamilton69 View Post
Well it's january 4th, I leave for California for a few months on the 19th, if I didn't have to worry about a tune I would order and install my turbo in the next 2 weeks and drive it to san Diego, but without a tune guess I'm sol! How long does the install typically take?
all you need to really do for a driveable base tune is a maf cal, and that might not even be needed if you stay stock intake. Depends on your skill level and complications. Mine took about i would say 8-9 hours. And that's due to a lot of breaks, and taking two steps back.

It really helps to have two hands especially when bolting up the turbo to the manifold.
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 Old 01-04-2012, 08:06 AM   #109
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Originally Posted by 86azms3 View Post
all you need to really do for a driveable base tune is a maf cal, and that might not even be needed if you stay stock intake. Depends on your skill level and complications. Mine took about i would say 8-9 hours. And that's due to a lot of breaks, and taking two steps back.

It really helps to have two hands especially when bolting up the turbo to the manifold.
^^^ sounds about right for a first time and it doesnt hurt to even have a 3rd person for when someone gets tired.


Corey on my t3 setup I was able to drop the mani with the turbo attached with the tilted flange lol.
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 Old 01-04-2012, 11:11 PM   #110
 
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Originally Posted by eric@edgeautosport View Post
^^^ sounds about right for a first time and it doesnt hurt to even have a 3rd person for when someone gets tired.


Corey on my t3 setup I was able to drop the mani with the turbo attached with the tilted flange lol.
well that's good i've just found on stock mani bolting the mani to the block with the turbo on is hard. I actually set the turbo on the driveshaft and bolted the mani to the block and then lifted the turbo to the mani. Makes things easier imo
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 Old 01-05-2012, 05:12 AM   #111
 
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You think that's easier? Didn't seem too bad to me to bolt the turbo onto the downpipe and then put the manifold on it. Kinda nice how everything falls into place like that, actually.
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 Old 01-05-2012, 08:22 AM   #112
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what I did with with the stock location is just put the oil return on to hold it there and then slid the manifold over the studs then bolted the turbo to the mani and didnt have a single problem doing it that way.
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 Old 04-29-2012, 02:43 AM   #113
 
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As we all know both the stock turbo and stock downpipe have some brackets or extensions from the heat shield to fix on the engine block.
After going big turbo and replacing the turbo and downpipe the turbo and downpipe are fixed on the engine block only through the exhaust manifold.

Now, naturally a question pops up: assuming that there is an upgraded rear MM, still, were there any cases of cracked exhaust manifolds because of the engine movement?
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 Old 04-29-2012, 06:59 AM   #114
 
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The only manifolds I have heard of cracking are the DNP and the RR. There are a couple people running GT30s on stock manifold, no brackets of any kind, no cracks. chimmike has thousands of miles on his car at this point, so it would appear the stock manifold is pretty beefy. If have you have a cute turbo like I do (BNR stg 3) or a 2871, I wouldn't even worry about it.
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 Old 04-30-2012, 09:19 AM   #115
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Originally Posted by bmylez View Post
The only manifolds I have heard of cracking are the DNP and the RR. There are a couple people running GT30s on stock manifold, no brackets of any kind, no cracks. chimmike has thousands of miles on his car at this point, so it would appear the stock manifold is pretty beefy. If have you have a cute turbo like I do (BNR stg 3) or a 2871, I wouldn't even worry about it.
QFT, this is spot on
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 Old 04-30-2012, 09:28 AM   #116
 
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I have nearly 19k miles on stock mani with GT30 and no cracks. Also, weren't the PG manis known for cracking?
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 Old 11-29-2012, 03:21 PM   #117
 
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Off topic here, I am installing a GTX 3076 EWG which i got brand new real cheap on ebay, Just wondering would you guys recommend buying the oil feed lines, what are the odds the stock one wont reach or fit?
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 Old 09-06-2013, 01:51 PM   #118
 
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I just went to a auto sports place and I got a estimate for a BT setup with the GT35 turbo they said they'll make a custom intercooler I need a fuel pump BC I'm still running the stock theyll tune it and put it on and dyno it for 5300 i dont know if that's too much if anyone here can recommend a list of parts u think would work (Fmic; fuel pump; pump; ect.) I already have down pipe cat back intake simple bolt ons. I'd rather someone help me out with this rather then them buying the most expensive everything and getting me fucked for it. Thanks
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 Old 09-06-2013, 02:07 PM   #119
 
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No one is gonna help you since you didn't search about the subject. And fuck you for bumping this old ass thread.
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 Old 09-06-2013, 02:14 PM   #120
 
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Originally Posted by USMCdenis538 View Post
I just went to a auto sports place and I got a estimate for a BT setup with the GT35 turbo they said they'll make a custom intercooler I need a fuel pump BC I'm still running the stock theyll tune it and put it on and dyno it for 5300 i dont know if that's too much if anyone here can recommend a list of parts u think would work (Fmic; fuel pump; pump; ect.) I already have down pipe cat back intake simple bolt ons. I'd rather someone help me out with this rather then them buying the most expensive everything and getting me fucked for it. Thanks
Seems like a giant ripoff to me. You can do that setup for far less.

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2007 MS3 Sport, gtx3071r, Full-Race Exhaust Manifold, SP PNP Intake Manifold, SP 88mm Pistons 9:5:1, Manley H Beam Rods, 10mm H11 Head Studs, ARP Main Studs, 4" HTP TIP + Small Battery Tray, 3 Bar MAP, Grimmspeed ECBS, CP-E FMIC, CP-E DP, CP-E Nexus CBE, Tokay Injector Seals, CP-E RMM, SU PMM, TRZ TMM, PTP FP Internals, DCR VVT, JBrone Shift Plate, SU Shifter Bushings, HKS SSQV, ITV22, DIY Perm Plate with dual OCC, Corksport Radiator Shroud, Southbend Stage 3 Clutch, DO Stage 2 Meth D10, Evo X Wheels, 245/40-18 Nitto NT05, Koni Sports + H&R Springs **463whp/409lb-ft via Mustang Dyno as of 3/28/14**

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