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 Old 02-21-2011, 01:26 PM   #41
 
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He he thanks. No they are very strong cars, come in 2 and 4 door versions running the Volvo 5 cylinder motors 2.5L Borg Warner K04, some of them are running Gt30's with NOS and making +- 450whp so they have way more torque than the Speeds!

We rolled from second, if it was from the line I would have pulled bigger gaps.

See the new version released there by you guys it’s now a Ford motor again 2.0L 4 cylinder Direct Injection motor...

Will race one of them with NOS some time and post a vid
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 Old 02-25-2011, 04:24 AM   #42
 
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a vid with my mate driving it on 22 psi, not wot shifting inside the cab. Will load better clips and races later.

A/f gauge not working I need to replace the sensor switch on the Lambda

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 Old 02-25-2011, 07:41 AM   #43
 
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Question about FMIC setup. Isn't the BOV on the hot side?

Is this an ok thing to do? I thought it is supposed to be on the cold side.
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 Old 02-25-2011, 08:12 AM   #44
 
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The BPV/BOV can be anywhere between the compressor side and the T/B really. This kit just places the valve before the intercooler instead of after.
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 Old 02-25-2011, 01:22 PM   #45
 
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yip, working 100% for me and also allows so much more space to work with because of the placement. The TB is so open and easy accessible to work on the w/m nozzles SRI etc.

Sunday is raceday will post some vids and times.
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 Old 02-28-2011, 10:07 AM   #46
 
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Some bad news guys, on my way to the track I blew a boost pipe off. We all stopped and saw it was the one going to the TB, put it back and the car didn’t want to start....

We put the OBD on and it through error code for "Camshaft sensor"....

Towed it to the track hoping we'll sort it out but nothing. We noticed that the pulleys turned but not the cam chain (looked inside, opened the oil cap) so motor has to be pulled again to see what is going on...


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 Old 02-28-2011, 10:11 AM   #47
 
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ruh roh shaggy... sounds like you lost your timing chain.
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 Old 02-28-2011, 11:09 AM   #48
 
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This has happened to me when I popped a pipe off. Reset the battery and make sure all boost pipes are connected. I wouldn't pull the motor yet lol
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 Old 02-28-2011, 01:12 PM   #49
 
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we tried that and re-set with the OBD @ the race track.... :-((

will go have a look tom to see what's cooking, everything for a reason they say!!
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 Old 02-28-2011, 01:35 PM   #50
 
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sorry to hear man !! hope it not serious
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 Old 02-28-2011, 02:42 PM   #51
 
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You should pull the valve cover before you pull the engine. It might give you a better look at what's going on.
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 Old 03-01-2011, 05:33 AM   #52
 
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thanks guys they tried but cant see anything...

avatar is funny lol " a moose named Hank" LMAO
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 Old 03-13-2011, 04:33 PM   #53
 
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If i may ask....how did you find out about epic tuning? I actually went down to them cause i am semi local and had them build that kit on my car. I didnt want to spend 1300 on a fmic kit when i knew these guys we incredibly smart and could make one for it that would do just as good. glad to see someone else has this kit now. they decided to mass produce it a couple months after doing mine....just thought id see how ya found out about them?
Anyone have ne suggestions on what exhaust manifold i should do? I am going with a reworked k04 because i dont want to have to build the motor. I am fully bolted other than the exhaust manifold? so i need some suggestions?
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 Old 03-13-2011, 05:11 PM   #54
 
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Just because you don't have a built motor doesn't mean you have to stick with the K04. In fact, people are finding that big turbos are *more forgiving* than the quick-spooling, low-end torque happy K04. A GT3071, even at 350+ whp, has less of a chance of blowing your motor than a K04 that produces over 300 ft-lbs at 3k rpm.
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 Old 03-13-2011, 05:24 PM   #55
 
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I know i could go bigger but in reality i dont want to spend the money to go bigger. i just dont have it. i got a great deal on the reworked k04 thats another reason i went this route. i would love to have a turbo that didnt spool at 1800 rpms but money is a problem haha! So i was looking into what manifold i should get for it? and i would like to get it tuned to make the power a little later then 1800 rpms. so i can daily drive it cause i dont drive the car often at all
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 Old 03-13-2011, 05:41 PM   #56
 
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SteedSpeed manifolds are amazing and sturdy. Stock placement so it will bolt on with no fuss. Yeah, you could get the tubular DNP manifold but I'd be worried about cracking. I think there are a couple other stock turbo manifolds out there, but Steed is the way to go. As for tuning out low end power, I'm guessing you have SB or AP. If you run a little rich with low-to-moderate timing below 3500, it should help.
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 Old 03-13-2011, 05:51 PM   #57
 
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Yea i have the standback. I was working on tuning it with the bolt ons. then i gave up cause i figured im putting the manifold, turbo, and fuel pump on in a mth or so then i was gonna take it to get it tuned....of course so i dont blow it up.
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 Old 03-15-2011, 02:10 PM   #58
 
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Originally Posted by ManiacMx3 View Post
If i may ask....how did you find out about epic tuning? I actually went down to them cause i am semi local and had them build that kit on my car. I didnt want to spend 1300 on a fmic kit when i knew these guys we incredibly smart and could make one for it that would do just as good. glad to see someone else has this kit now. they decided to mass produce it a couple months after doing mine....just thought id see how ya found out about them?
Anyone have ne suggestions on what exhaust manifold i should do? I am going with a reworked k04 because i dont want to have to build the motor. I am fully bolted other than the exhaust manifold? so i need some suggestions?
Bud no idea can't remember think they advertised on E-bay, I then saved it on my pc. Later on after having the fail with the PG kit I looked them up and also found one single post of them on this forum. The design was so simple and made so much sense using the some of the stock silicone. It’s working like a bomb love it!!

Got my car back today, head, valves, cam chain and tensioner replaced. Seems like it was a faulty tensioner that caused the chain to slack, well cabby is going nicely again.

Just want to get a D05 nozzle and run it with the w/m on the Dyno again, being at altitude sucks! So hoping for 340whp with w/m.
The steedspeed manifold works very well, it definitely helped the GT30 spool a bit quicker IMO. Either that or a combination of that and removing the engine balancer
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 Old 03-15-2011, 03:48 PM   #59
 
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Originally Posted by EwMPS View Post

Got my car back today, head, valves, cam chain and tensioner replaced. Seems like it was a faulty tensioner that caused the chain to slack, well cabby is going nicely again.

Just want to get a D05 nozzle and run it with the w/m on the Dyno again, being at altitude sucks! So hoping for 340whp with w/m.
The steedspeed manifold works very well, it definitely helped the GT30 spool a bit quicker IMO. Either that or a combination of that and removing the engine balancer
I just found this thread. Car looks great, glad it wasn't anything tooooo serious and she's back up and running. With your power level I'd say the d05 is definitely where you should be. Hopefully that'll help combat the heat and altitude. Goodluck.
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 Old 03-31-2011, 04:15 PM   #60
 
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So have been testing the w/m the whole week with a D07 nozzle, I know I need a D05 but battling to get one locally and the D03's parts mysteriously disappeared... don’t ask I have no idea, when I screwed it out the filter and pill was gone!! So forced to go D07 and surprisingly its holding up nicely no jerking at all?? Will do some dyno runs and data logging to check intake temp, KR and power to see if the additional meth is draining power and making the car lean or maybe I'll be surprised and there's more power!

No timing has been advanced so if I can get 330whp as is then I'll be happy for now. After all of this just can’t understand why the clutch has started slipping when I wot shift????

Set the full switch on 15 psi for my 18 psi map on the D07, mixing 50/50 weight so that’s roughly 56% met balance water so far so good, keep you posted.
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 Old 04-01-2011, 09:30 AM   #61
 
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so had her on a dyno today with the w/m, made 352whp and 374 lbs/ft with the D07 nozzle, logging done not running lean at all.

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 Old 04-01-2011, 09:07 PM   #62
 
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That's mental, I'm so jealous!
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 Old 04-02-2011, 04:02 AM   #63
 
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There is is still a bit left in her, guessing she can boost 1.6 Bar (24psi) if I grow the balls.... And maybe pure meth, 80% at least.

Thinking of lower the compression on the head.... & a GTX3071R.... he he who knows, it never ends!
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 Old 04-02-2011, 08:55 AM   #64
 
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Yeah man, it's hard to know where to stop, but I'm gonna try to force myself to stop with the ATP 3076 for now. I feel bad for you since you're at such high elevation. I'm at 700 ft ASL, so I should hit 400 with moderate boost. Plenty to blow the tires off

Anyway, good luck with making more power!
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 Old 04-03-2011, 03:01 PM   #65
 
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and good luck to you bud! I tried to go down the drag strip today, the clutch couldn’t keep up slipped from 1st straight through. What a rude and obnoxious awakening, embarrassing to say the least what and asss I made of myself, couldn’t hook up one gear to much on the tap or something is not right.... Didn't slip on the Dyno????

Clutch was fine before the valves went, I’m just getting a bit fed up now! The motor is 100% and now this....
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 Old 04-03-2011, 03:26 PM   #66
 
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It's always something. I have a big boost leak that I can't track down. Ordered a boost leak tester, so we'll see where that gets me. No fun when you are tuned for 21psi and the car only hits 15 and drops to 11 as the revs climb.
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 Old 04-05-2011, 02:31 PM   #67
 
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That's crap! Let me know when you find the leak, be interesting to know what caused it??
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 Old 04-05-2011, 07:59 PM   #68
 
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I'm not even sure it's a leak. Something is making my boost drop and my car slow.
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 Old 04-05-2011, 08:14 PM   #69
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sick build man
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 Old 04-06-2011, 05:15 AM   #70
 
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Originally Posted by bmylez View Post
Even if he's using the WotBox? It's either pulling a ton of timing or cutting fuel or somethin so it could just be a byproduct. Don't have a WotBox, so I'm not quite sure.
I have spoken to TurboSmart and adjusted my BOV, the backfiring is gone!
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 Old 04-06-2011, 05:44 AM   #71
 
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So what you're telling us is, your car WASN'T supposed to be backfire and it wasn't part of the tune? I sense that there will be some mad people coming back, heh...
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 Old 04-06-2011, 06:22 AM   #72
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havent seen this thread in a while....good progress man, congrats.

when u getting slicks and dragging it?
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 Old 04-06-2011, 07:46 PM   #73
 
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Sweet build man! Great job.
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 Old 04-08-2011, 09:10 AM   #74
 
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Originally Posted by bmylez View Post
So what you're telling us is, your car WASN'T supposed to be backfire and it wasn't part of the tune? I sense that there will be some mad people coming back, heh...
Indeed, hopefully they will be shot before they are back!! No, my tune was not set up to be like this, I assumed the Wot Shift was to blame (actually mis it now) but guess I was wrong!



he he lol

Assumption is the mother of all .....

Originally Posted by lenny127 View Post
havent seen this thread in a while....good progress man, congrats.

when u getting slicks and dragging it?
Car in to see why the hell the cluthc is slipping!! Fark, there is always something! Drags I've been going to just had bad luck and as soon as I have some cash I'll get slicks on and see what she makes!!

Last edited by EwMPS; 04-08-2011 at 09:10 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 10-03-2011, 02:33 PM   #75
 
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Just an update I eventually got more power out of her and broke my 2nd leakage in my gearbox, gearbox not soo happy when you start hiting +380lbs/ft on the wheels!! Car sold and the mods, next year I'll do a MKII with a GTX3076, EWG, Steed Mani, C-pe piston/rods (lower compression), Grimspeed, Uni Q, AEM w/m kit and maybe small shot of NOS :-)))

keep you guys posted!
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 Old 10-04-2011, 03:25 AM   #76
 
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Maybe you should get a Honda.
And keep it stock.
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 Old 07-12-2013, 04:23 PM   #77
 
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lol funny coming from a WRX driver on a MSF he he, any how, old thread I know. Just give my last update on this thread, and share the news that I'm in a Mazdaspeed Gen 2 again as mentioned in this thread. (BMW 320d E90 2011 daily drive) MS just toy..

Learned a whole lot new shit on here and will go Cobb this time around, at the end when I sold the complete motor and went back stock I was doing close to 380whp and couldn't boost more due to the fact that I didn't "read" and replace the map sensor nor upgrade the hpfp internals..

This time around goal will just be to hit 340whp comfortably. GTX28 maybe GTX30 EWG set up..

Will start a new Gen 2 build thread again.
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