Gtx3071r build in az

[Matrix311]

Just ordered my gtx3071r, Grimmspeed ecbs and htp 3" tip on friday last week. I should have all the parts this week. With all my current supporting mods I'm shooting for an easy and successful install.

We have a nator az install day setup for the 10th of November so hopefully we have a good turnout and a great time installing my new parts.

Shooting for a goal of 400whp with meth.

Pictures and more details to come.

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[lilred]

May you be fail free. GLWB

tapafuck

[SarcasticOne]

Originally Posted by lilred May you be fail free. GLWB tapafuck

This ^
GLWB hope install goes smooth, tune is easy, and most importantly, rods stay inside your block

[Matrix311]

Originally Posted by SarcasticOne This ^ GLWB hope install goes smooth, tune is easy, and most importantly, rods stay inside your block

Rods in block is a good thing!

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[Alpha]

In for wheelspin.

[Matrix311]

Question for you guys that have done the BT install. Are there any specialty tools I should buy prior to the install that would help make this job a lot easier? I know getting to the various studs on the manifold and turbo are difficult and tedious, what can I buy to help make the job easier? Do you know the sizes off hand i'll need and what special tool in that size?

Stubby wrenches?
Bendy wrenches or extensions
other tools?

I have an air ratchet, will that help with the job or is everything hand tools only?

[atvfreek]

All of the stock dp and manifold to turbo nuts are 14mm so make sure you have a variety of different 14's and extensions. The new hardware may be 15's though, so make sure you have a bunch of those too. The stock oil line bolts are 8mm, so you will need that socket. Hose pliers are nice to have so you can pinch off the coolant lines. And make sure you open the coolant cap to relieve the pressure. Then reinstall the cap and it will also keep you from being sprayed with coolant. Lol

Freekn tappin

[Matrix311]

Originally Posted by atvfreek All of the stock dp and manifold to turbo nuts are 14mm so make sure you have a variety of different 14's and extensions. The new hardware may be 15's though, so make sure you have a bunch of those too. The stock oil line bolts are 8mm, so you will need that socket. Hose pliers are nice to have so you can pinch off the coolant lines. And make sure you open the coolant cap to relieve the pressure. Then reinstall the cap and it will also keep you from being sprayed with coolant. Lol Freekn tappin

I've got several sets of tools and a variety of metrics. Do I need some stubby's? Seems like i've seen in the past people cutting their 14 or 15 in half. What about a stubby ratcheting wrench? Their not cheap but if they make the job easier i'll spend the $30 and pick one up. I have several long ones I use for hard to reach parts when working on my Jeeps and they make life so much easier.

[MS3Casey]

Good luck!

[atvfreek]

I didn't pull my manifold but if you're, the stubby wrenches will defintely come in handy

Freekn tappin

[Matrix311]

Originally Posted by atvfreek I didn't pull my manifold but if you're, the stubby wrenches will defintely come in handy Freekn tappin

I know you dont have to pull the mani with the BNR turbo but i'm guessing I will with the gtx3071 since it's a bigger housing. Has anyone done the install with keeping the manifold on for the gtx?

[uncorked11]

Drive up ramps for me was a big help. It made the car low enough I could reach over, but high enough I could crawl under no sweat. The ATP nuts that come with the turbo are 15mm. Other then the extra tube for the cooling line, if you are using a EWG you may want cooling line and fittings for it or just plugs for the openings. Tial recommends all holes be plugged.

Edit you will have to pull the Mani, I droped my KO4 and put it on the subframe in the tunnel to get to the manifold bolts. easy.

[Matrix311]

Originally Posted by uncorked11 Drive up ramps for me was a big help. It made the car low enough I could reach over, but high enough I could crawl under no sweat. The ATP nuts that come with the turbo are 15mm. Other then the extra tube for the cooling line, if you are using a EWG you may want cooling line and fittings for it or just plugs for the openings. Tial recommends all holes be plugged. Edit you will have to pull the Mani, I droped my KO4 and put it on the subframe in the tunnel to get to the manifold bolts. easy.

Cool man thanks for the heads up! I will give that a shot when removing the K04 and stock manifold. I see you have a Wrangler, do you have an LJ or TJ? I have a few Jeeps myself. I have a '92 YJ crawler and just picked up an '08 Rubicon Unlimited JKU. I've spent all my money modding my Jeeps the past few years I figured I would give my MS3 some lovin again with the big turbo upgrade. When I first started modding my MS3 back in 2007 I thought this was expensive to do (only had CPE and Cobb for choices then) but now that I own two Jeeps, modding the MS3 seems dirt cheap. You know what Jeep stands for right? JEEP = Just.Empty.Every.Pocket and thats no lie. I quit counting how much money i've dumped into my Jeeps, it's stupid I know that much.

[uncorked11]

Originally Posted by Matrix311 Cool man thanks for the heads up! I will give that a shot when removing the K04 and stock manifold. I see you have a Wrangler, do you have an LJ or TJ? I have a few Jeeps myself. I have a '92 YJ crawler and just picked up an '08 Rubicon Unlimited JKU. I've spent all my money modding my Jeeps the past few years I figured I would give my MS3 some lovin again with the big turbo upgrade. When I first started modding my MS3 back in 2007 I thought this was expensive to do (only had CPE and Cobb for choices then) but now that I own two Jeeps, modding the MS3 seems dirt cheap. You know what Jeep stands for right? JEEP = Just.Empty.Every.Pocket and thats no lie. I quit counting how much money i've dumped into my Jeeps, it's stupid I know that much.

Yes I posted 2 pictures in your Jeep thread. Overall I think the MS3 is so much more costly to mod, My suspension alone was 3000, then the SYE kit was an other 250 which required 2 new drive shafts (fabtech 6 in long arm). After that I went Dana 44's with ARB air lockers and 4.56 gears, front and rear bumpers with a Warn power plant winch on the front and 2000 pound tow cap. rear ARB bumper, tire carrier. I also have all air flow mods and chip done to the engine. Now when I decide to build the engine it will push me past what I put in the Jeep. Of course the Jeep has more parts available to upgrade. Not to derail the thread but How do you like the extra weight of the LJ?

[Matrix311]

Originally Posted by uncorked11 Yes I posted 2 pictures in your Jeep thread. Overall I think the MS3 is so much more costly to mod, My suspension alone was 3000, then the SYE kit was an other 250 which required 2 new drive shafts (fabtech 6 in long arm). After that I went Dana 44's with ARB air lockers and 4.56 gears, front and rear bumpers with a Warn power plant winch on the front and 2000 pound tow cap. rear ARB bumper, tire carrier. I also have all air flow mods and chip done to the engine. Now when I decide to build the engine it will push me past what I put in the Jeep. Of course the Jeep has more parts available to upgrade. Not to derail the thread but How do you like the extra weight of the LJ?

I dont have an LJ. I have a 2008 JK and so far i'm loving it. The push button lockers and of course my favorite part is the 4:1 transfercase when your in 4 low 1st gear with 5.13 gears it crawls soooooo slow. I can't wait to run it this weekend and do some good wheeling with it.

Ya it's crazy how expensive modding a Jeep is. Bumpers alone cost almost as much as a big turbo. It's a flipping bumper and does no performance upgrade to the engine WTF!! The rear bumper I want to get for my new JK is $1,200. JK stuff is so overpriced. The same bumper I have on my YJ was $800 so i dont get why the JK bumper is $1200 for the same identical thing. Then $1200 for gears and $750 for HD sterring system $1200 for doing my ford 8.8 axle and fully rebuilding it. I want to do a 4 link suspension with my YJ and put deaver springs up front and thats looking around $5,000 to do. Luckily I only paid $2500 for the Jeep so it helps not having a payment which allows me to mod the hell out of it.

Anyways enough with the Jeeps, we can talk about Jeeps in my Jeep thread. Lets put this back on topic of my new GTX3071r which should be here hopefully on Friday! I just picked up a stubby flex 15mm ratcheting wrench from Sears, fricken $27 for that thing. I'll have to order the 14mm online since they didn't have it in stock. Hopefully this will make life way easier when it comes to doing my turbo install on the 10th.

[uncorked11]

Originally Posted by Matrix311 I dont have an LJ. I have a 2008 JK and so far i'm loving it. The push button lockers and of course my favorite part is the 4:1 transfercase when your in 4 low 1st gear with 5.13 gears it crawls soooooo slow. I can't wait to run it this weekend and do some good wheeling with it. Ya it's crazy how expensive modding a Jeep is. Bumpers alone cost almost as much as a big turbo. It's a flipping bumper and does no performance upgrade to the engine WTF!! The rear bumper I want to get for my new JK is $1,200. JK stuff is so overpriced. The same bumper I have on my YJ was $800 so i dont get why the JK bumper is $1200 for the same identical thing. Then $1200 for gears and $750 for HD sterring system $1200 for doing my ford 8.8 axle and fully rebuilding it. I want to do a 4 link suspension with my YJ and put deaver springs up front and thats looking around $5,000 to do. Luckily I only paid $2500 for the Jeep so it helps not having a payment which allows me to mod the hell out of it. Anyways enough with the Jeeps, we can talk about Jeeps in my Jeep thread. Lets put this back on topic of my new GTX3071r which should be here hopefully on Friday! I just picked up a stubby flex 15mm ratcheting wrench from Sears, fricken $27 for that thing. I'll have to order the 14mm online since they didn't have it in stock. Hopefully this will make life way easier when it comes to doing my turbo install on the 10th.

ok BT, for tools I always look for sales and buy the sets, anyway on my install I used air tools and regular hand tools. I did the install the first time on jackstands and it was a bitch lifting and lowering, when I went to a EWG hotside I used ramps much easier. just start hitting the mani and turbo studs with pb blaster now.

Edit: big breaker bar helps as well

[Matrix311]

For the tight spots would something like this be a big help?

This is a 15mm stubby and flexes
GearWrench 15mm Combination Stubby Wrench, Flex Ratcheting - Tools - Wrenches - All Open Stock Wrenches

This a 15mm stubby with no flex
Stubby Combination Wrench 15mm: Get the Job Done with Sears

Also to take the stock manifold off is 14mm so i'll probably need one of these in 14mm as well for removal. Which would work better? Flex or no Flex?

[bmylez]

You want a flex-head, 100%. On my latest turbo install, I finally got a 14mm flex head and it made life a billion times easier.

[Matrix311]

Originally Posted by bmylez You want a flex-head, 100%. On my latest turbo install, I finally got a 14mm flex head and it made life a billion times easier.

It's 14mm to take stock stuff off and 15mm for new atp stuff right?

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[bmylez]

No idea on new ATP stuff, never used it.

[Matrix311]

Parts have arrived!



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[86AmishMs3]

Where are those pics of the porting : P

[Matrix311]

Originally Posted by 86azms3 Where are those pics of the porting : P

The part is still in my car. I'll take some photos and post them tomorrow. Thanks again man!

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[Matrix311]

Pulled out the stock turbo and manifold last night. Extended my coolant line where the 3" TIP will be going so thats out of the way. I also swapped the nozzle on my meth from D04 to D07. Tomorrow I start reinstalling everything. Here are a few comparison shots of the two turbos. You've seen these from other threads but I figured I would post mine up anyways.

[Matrix311]

3" treadstone maf just showed up today! Time to start tuning.

uploadfromtaptalk1352845657245.jpg

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[Teronsito]

Any updates?

[Rainmens]

I'd love to come check out you're build one day, maybe get a ride (no homo). Congrats on goin BT.

[Matrix311]

Install completed. Ill try to get a few photos posted sometime this week. Everything is running good and strong and no leaks. I'm having some issues with the wastegate actuator arm and the preload. I'll probably have to pull the turbo to fix this issue which sucks but I've got to do it to help with the spool time. Right now i'm spooling around 4300rpm and i want to be closer to 3300-3400rpm for spool times. This requires shortening the actuator arm to add more pre-load.

When I ported the wastegate and assembled the two halves back together i clocked the turbo a bit to put pressure on the actuator arm. I did not realize you had to preload it at the time and by clocking the turbo it has thrown things out of alignment making it very difficult to preload the wastegate any further due to wrong angles. So this month or early next month i'll pull the turbo and fix this so i can spool faster. Right now i'm just enjoying the turbo now that i'm done with my tune for the time being.

I also bought a set of Evo X wheels a few weeks ago. Dropped them off to be powdercoated and just got htem back today. Here are a few photos of the wheels at the powdercoating shop. Only $240 out the door to have all 4 done, not to bad

[86AmishMs3]

BTW I think 3300-3400 full spool (20psi) is probably asking for too much. You might be able to get that but really 3500-3800 is probably what you're shooting for.

But I'm off wednesday and thursday...thursday i'll probably be busy.

[Matrix311]

Originally Posted by 86azms3 BTW I think 3300-3400 full spool (20psi) is probably asking for too much. You might be able to get that but really 3500-3800 is probably what you're shooting for. But I'm off wednesday and thursday...thursday i'll probably be busy.

Ok let's plan Wednesday then

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[BlckMs3]

this needs update eric!...parts list for the lil things would help a lot of folks out