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 Old 04-14-2013, 12:41 PM   #1
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Default Holset turbo oil lines

Background: So holset turbos seem to be very touchy when it comes to oiling, the seals are nearly bombproof from a mileage and use standpoint but oil pressure and and low/slow oil drainage murder the seals.

The HX35w that I am going to use is a journal bearing burbo that is not cooled with coolant so the install is easier, but not by much.

Holset requires a oil drain that has a 19mm ID or 3/4" which is a an12 hose. I found a T3 drain to an12 fitting here: Race Proven Motors Store - Flange - T4 Oil Drain - 12an Male and here: Wolfe Race Craft - Detail they are difficult but not impossible to find. They are mainly used on ~100mm large frame turbos. There are no clearance issues fitting an12 parts to the turbo, there is plenty of room. The oil hose must have a minimum of 30* of downward angle, there must be no uphill sections or kinks.

The oil input side is a little more complex. We have a very good high flow oil pump from the factory and it is capable of very high pressures. Holset set the oil pressure spec at 85psi max cold, 75psi max warm with a 10psi minimum pressure at idle. Diesel trucks run lower rpms and generally have lower oil pressures when compared to gas engines. So we have to run a restrictor. Most of the people that I have seen are running a 0.075" restrictor and on a an4 feed. A an4 to m12x1.5 fitting for the turbo end can be found here: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

Two issues that I immediately see are:
The oem oil feed may not be the same pressure as the oil pressure at the filter. Has anyone measured this?
The oil restrictor used on other engines hasnt been used on ours.

People have gotten 300rpm+ faster spool times by lowering the pressure of the oil feed, the minimum full spool oil pressure spec is ~30psi so anyone have any input or measurements of oil pressure at the fitting under the alternator?
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 Old 04-14-2013, 12:51 PM   #2
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@sleepyspeed6; is running a HX35

Frankin-turbo (hx35)
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 Old 04-14-2013, 02:57 PM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by 06Speed6 View Post
Background: So holset turbos seem to be very touchy when it comes to oiling, the seals are nearly bombproof from a mileage and use standpoint but oil pressure and and low/slow oil drainage murder the seals.

The HX35w that I am going to use is a journal bearing burbo that is not cooled with coolant so the install is easier, but not by much.

Holset requires a oil drain that has a 19mm ID or 3/4" which is a an12 hose. I found a T3 drain to an12 fitting here: Race Proven Motors Store - Flange - T4 Oil Drain - 12an Male and here: Wolfe Race Craft - Detail they are difficult but not impossible to find. They are mainly used on ~100mm large frame turbos. There are no clearance issues fitting an12 parts to the turbo, there is plenty of room. The oil hose must have a minimum of 30* of downward angle, there must be no uphill sections or kinks.

The oil input side is a little more complex. We have a very good high flow oil pump from the factory and it is capable of very high pressures. Holset set the oil pressure spec at 85psi max cold, 75psi max warm with a 10psi minimum pressure at idle. Diesel trucks run lower rpms and generally have lower oil pressures when compared to gas engines. So we have to run a restrictor. Most of the people that I have seen are running a 0.075" restrictor and on a an4 feed. A an4 to m12x1.5 fitting for the turbo end can be found here: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

Two issues that I immediately see are:
The oem oil feed may not be the same pressure as the oil pressure at the filter. Has anyone measured this?
The oil restrictor used on other engines hasnt been used on ours.

People have gotten 300rpm+ faster spool times by lowering the pressure of the oil feed, the minimum full spool oil pressure spec is ~30psi so anyone have any input or measurements of oil pressure at the fitting under the alternator?

Hey whats up man, so what I am using is just the factory line and banjo bolt. So far it if working great, you could try the upgraded restricter for the ko4 if you are worried about it blowing the seals. As for spool I am seeing 21.5psi at 4k (spring pressure) on the 35 which is plenty fast out of a turbo that size. I also have almost 5k on this turbo set up now too
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 Old 04-14-2013, 03:09 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by sleepyspeed6 View Post
Hey whats up man, so what I am using is just the factory line and banjo bolt. So far it if working great, you could try the upgraded restricter for the ko4 if you are worried about it blowing the seals. As for spool I am seeing 21.5psi at 4k (spring pressure) on the 35 which is plenty fast out of a turbo that size. I also have almost 5k on this turbo set up now too
Did you test the oil pressure or just bolt it on and go?
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 Old 04-14-2013, 03:20 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by 06Speed6 View Post

Two issues that I immediately see are:
The oem oil feed may not be the same pressure as the oil pressure at the filter. Has anyone measured this?
yes but its buried in my fail build thread somewhere...it was the same at silvapain's readings at his sammich plate back in the winter when it was cooler. Now that spring is around it is either lower than that or my bearings are toast causing the low pressure. 9psi at idle when fully hot now compared to ~12-15 PSI hot in the winter.

I also have a ton of info on fittings and such in there if you just look for all the fittings and visio stuff you can see all the other parts.

here is my feed point for the sending unit.



edit:

info on fittings and lines in OP

The FAIL formerly known as "Dano's Drop-in Build"

two different restrictors are included in the parts list but not sure the banjo bolt is the same on the HX.
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 Old 04-14-2013, 05:59 PM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by 06Speed6 View Post
Did you test the oil pressure or just bolt it on and go?
No I figured since it hasn't blown the ko4's glass seals the hx would be fine. If they did blow it's cheap to rebuild these turbos, I would rebuild it and put a smaller restricter in the banjo
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 Old 04-14-2013, 09:19 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Dano View Post
yes but its buried in my fail build thread somewhere...it was the same at silvapain's readings at his sammich plate back in the winter when it was cooler. Now that spring is around it is either lower than that or my bearings are toast causing the low pressure. 9psi at idle when fully hot now compared to ~12-15 PSI hot in the winter.

I also have a ton of info on fittings and such in there if you just look for all the fittings and visio stuff you can see all the other parts.

here is my feed point for the sending unit.



edit:

info on fittings and lines in OP

The FAIL formerly known as "Dano's Drop-in Build"

two different restrictors are included in the parts list but not sure the banjo bolt is the same on the HX.
So the pressure reading at the sammich plate is the same as the turbo oil feed? I got 17-21psi warm on my car, yall need thicker oil.
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 Old 04-14-2013, 10:14 PM   #8
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Yes at that time they were the same.

FWIW

My oil was 10-30

Not sure about @silvapain;s


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 Old 04-15-2013, 02:37 AM   #9
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Turbo is gonna need a restrictor then. Its cool that we dont have a oil pressure loss somewhere in the motor though so I cant complain too much.
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 Old 04-15-2013, 08:27 AM   #10
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Is the oil inlet the same as OEM/garrett?

I am using a 1mm restrictor banjo bolt from eBay that you could drill out if you have some tiny bits.


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 Old 04-16-2013, 08:08 AM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by Dano View Post
Yes at that time they were the same.

FWIW

My oil was 10-30

Not sure about @silvapain;s


Tappin
I'm running 5W30, and I've noticed my idle oil pressure has dropped in the warmer weather too. Now I'm running closer to 10PSI oil pressure as measured at the sammich plate at idle when the engine is at operating temperature.

I've been considering going to a 10W oil.
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 Old 04-16-2013, 09:02 AM   #12
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Makes me feel better about my pressure. Maybe my location is good and I don't have issues with my bearings. With motor fully warm to hot I am running 9 psi at idle.

New motor has ProSupport sammach plate.


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 Old 04-16-2013, 10:37 AM   #13
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How about running a sandwich plate as such, can run oil temp and pressure sensor?

Mishimoto MMOP-SP Silver Oil Sandwich Plate M20
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 Old 04-16-2013, 10:38 AM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by Dano View Post
Makes me feel better about my pressure. Maybe my location is good and I don't have issues with my bearings. With motor fully warm to hot I am running 9 psi at idle.

New motor has ProSupport sammach plate.


Tappin
It means either your pressure is good... or my engine has issues too
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 Old 04-16-2013, 10:40 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by silvapain View Post
It means either your pressure is good... or my engine has issues too
Probably the clearances. Maybe I should hook up a pressure gauge, LOL!
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 Old 04-16-2013, 11:25 PM   #16
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In "5w30" the 5 is its cold viscosity and the 30 is the warm viscosity. Going with a 10w30 wont help you at all with warm oil pressures. A 10w50 would.
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 Old 04-17-2013, 12:26 AM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by 06Speed6 View Post
In "5w30" the 5 is its cold viscosity and the 30 is the warm viscosity. Going with a 10w30 wont help you at all with warm oil pressures. A 10w50 would.
I'd rather go 5W40 than jump right up to 10W50, but you make a good point.
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 Old 04-17-2013, 12:24 PM   #18
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I forgot about the 5w40, I havent seen a 5w50 though.
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 Old 04-17-2013, 06:30 PM   #19
 
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This Is good info and that you are looking into the correct pressure for these turbo's. As I am currently gathering everything to do a HX35w 7 blade build.
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 Old 05-27-2013, 09:26 PM   #20
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just did my hx35w install over the weekend. very impressed with the very quick spool time so far. i cant wait to start polishing up the tune.
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 Old 05-28-2013, 08:55 AM   #21
 
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I want to do the same setup (T3 TwinScroll top mount & hx35 7 blades).
Say what you took as oil feed/return lines.
In twin scroll, HX35 spool at 3500 rpm, 3800 ??
Thanks.

Last edited by Fracass; 05-28-2013 at 09:12 AM.
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