How the hell are y'all doing it?!

[Mortose]

Ok, so me and @JasonMzdSpd3; have been discussing FMIC setups for our cars being that we both have the 2867. Something that has come up was the coupler that goes from the turbo to the hot pipe across the top of the motor. Both of us are running a coupler to a joiner to another coupler.

I've done some looking around and haven't seen anyone ever mention running into this problem.

So, i pose this question:

How is everyone else setting up there FMIC piping? what kind of coupler are folks using?

In the mean time, i'm going to talk to Silicone Intakes here in the Springs to see if they can ether make, or provide a coupler that can support a FMIC application i.e. longer as well as a step up to support 2.25" piping.

[JasonMzdSpd3]

Yea I am really curious as well. Hope someone can shed some light on this..

[JacksonMS30]

BT guys have been doing exactly what you described for years. There is no single coupler that will work and since inter cooler piping is 2.25-2.5" you need a reducer. Custom is the only way to go to get away with one coupler. Otherwise, depending on pipe diameter and hot pipe configuration, you typically need a 90* 2.5-2.0 bending reducer, 2.0" joiner, 2" straight coupler, and the appropriate clamps. This is because the BT compressor outlet is 2" and much shorter than the k04.

[Mortose]

Originally Posted by JacksonMS30 BT guys have been doing exactly what you described for years. There is no single coupler that will work and since inter cooler piping is 2.25-2.5" you need a reducer. Custom is the only way to go to get away with one coupler. Otherwise, depending on pipe diameter and hot pipe configuration, you typically need a 90* 2.5-2.0 bending reducer, 2.0" joiner, 2" straight coupler, and the appropriate clamps. This is because the BT compressor outlet is 2" and much shorter than the k04.

and that is the most logical. I mean, thats exactly what i did when i did my install. without hesitation, i went to silicone intakes and got the joiner and reducer i needed. but i'm finding, that no matter the clamps i use, after getting into boost, it pushes the couplers apart on the joiner, causing the hot pipe to rattle on the hood.

Obviously, there aren't any leaks, and a rattle isn't the end of the world, but i'm going to do some research, and contact some companies to see if we can get this fixed. Cuz in my head, the fewer joints, the better in any situation.

[lilred]

I believe @rfinkle2; was trying out some different clamps, not sure if that would help your case with the current setup.

tapafuck

[dawgincustoms]

I run a 90 degree 2.5" to 2.0" reducer from SFXPerformance.com for me pipe setup. My GTX2867 comes in on Wednesday and I can put up some pics to see if it will work as one unit. Its got like a 6-7" run from the end to the curve and cleared my valve cover by alot on a BNR shoved all the way down as far as it would go.

[JasonMzdSpd3]

Originally Posted by dawgincustoms I run a 90 degree 2.5" to 2.0" reducer from SFXPerformance.com for me pipe setup. My GTX2867 comes in on Wednesday and I can put up some pics to see if it will work as one unit. Its got like a 6-7" run from the end to the curve and cleared my valve cover by alot on a BNR shoved all the way down as far as it would go.

Sweet. Going to check that out and see what they have.

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[dawgincustoms]

http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/VIB2780B.htm this is the coupler I run the the BNR. I think it should work with the GTX series but wont know for sure until my GTX comes in.

[snailD]

i bought this, it works great, BARELY big enough to clear the valve cover breather but it does clear it. If you have a little filter on the breather it probably wont fit but im happy with it. I have the PG piping and a 2867

2 5" to 2" 63 51mm Silicone Coupler Hose 45 Degree Reducer Elbow Black USA | eBay

[Jansi]

Heres my setup. Im using a straight reducer to a 2.5 joiner to a straight 2.5 coupler. I tried using a 45 degree bend and the angle is a but awkward and doesn't sit right. It work flawlessly.


Teh Fast Station Wagon

Here are the links;

I have a cxracing fmic setup with a TR9 core. Here's what I bought.
From the turbo I run this:
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...222dc90b15e8e1

Then I run these two to together to the hot pipe.
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...222dc90b15e8e1

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...222dc90b15e8e1.

If anyone has any questions feel free to ask. Sig has my set up.

[JasonMzdSpd3]

Originally Posted by Jansi Heres my setup. Im using a straight reducer to a 2.5 joiner to a straight 2.5 coupler. I tried using a 45 degree bend and the angle is a but awkward and doesn't sit right. It work flawlessly. Teh Fast Station Wagon Here are the links; I have a cxracing fmic setup with a TR9 core. Here's what I bought. From the turbo I run this: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...222dc90b15e8e1 Then I run these two to together to the hot pipe. http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...222dc90b15e8e1 http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...222dc90b15e8e1. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask. Sig has my set up.

bringing this back to life, but the links are not showing up. I think they revamped their some site which is causing the issues. Anyway you could re link them with fresh links?

Thanks

[ABolewski]

I plan on welding a 90° elbow onto my hot pipe, down to the turbo, so there is only one coupler. Done up all purdy like, it's going to relentless customs (btw who is he on MSF?) and it'll all be pc'd and I'm hoping it comes out looking factory.
That's what I've got planned at least.
It'll be a 76 terboh and a Cobb hot pipe btw.

[rfinkle2]

Silicone Elbows: 90 Degree Silicone Bends, 12" Legs, 3 & 4 Ply Polyester - Venair

Venair is a company that makes ridiculously long silicone 90* couplers.

[Mortose]

Thanks @rfinkle2;!

So, we have an option for one setup, now, to find an option for those folks (myself included) who's piping already has the 90* in it, an only require a strait coupler.

I did look through there site, and they have strait reducers, but only 4" for most applications. I know I need one at least 6" long.

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by Mortose Thanks @rfinkle2;! So, we have an option for one setup, now, to find an option for those folks (myself included) who's piping already has the 90* in it, an only require a strait coupler. I did look through there site, and they have strait reducers, but only 4" for most applications. I know I need one at least 6" long.

You need a 6" silicone piece that is what ID? I am all over all of the time looking @ what is available.

List the parts you need and I will find them for you.

EDIT: @Mortose; you could cut of the 90 portion (of the hard pipe you currently run) and use the silicone I posted. If you send the pipe to me, I'll cut it with a pipe cutter and roll a bead on it for you.

[Mortose]

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 You need a 6" silicone piece that is what ID? I am all over all of the time looking @ what is available. List the parts you need and I will find them for you. EDIT: @Mortose; you could cut of the 90 portion (of the hard pipe you currently run) and use the silicone I posted. If you send the pipe to me, I'll cut it with a pipe cutter and roll a bead on it for you.

I would need a 2"-2.25" reducer thats 6" long at least. I would have to get some exact measurements, which i can grab in the morning.

as far as sending the pipe, its my only car, so can't be down like that.

[ABolewski]

If you're going to modify your hot pipe (ie cut it) you might as well do the opposite and weld on a bit of straight pipe down to the compressor. I really think that is the best option.

[JasonMzdSpd3]

Originally Posted by ABolewski If you're going to modify your hot pipe (ie cut it) you might as well do the opposite and weld on a bit of straight pipe down to the compressor. I really think that is the best option.

Well after talking with Mortose some more. I think I am going to call around and price some welding. Thoughts are add some on to the boost side of the turbo itself. Probably enough to equal that of a K04. Just need to find measurements compared to the K04 so we can see how much that piece will be. Looks like TIG will be best option. It seems most kits were designed for stock turbo's. Probably just have a nipple tapped as well while getting it welded if it's not crazy on the pocket since the turbo would be out of the car anyways. Well enough of my ramblings.

Let me know what you guys think.

J

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[blackmicamps6]

@Mortose;

i'm going to marry your avatar

[ABolewski]

@blackmicamps6; have you seen the video? It's even more memorizing. I must've watched it 100 times before I could stop.

[JasonMzdSpd3]

Originally Posted by ABolewski @blackmicamps6; have you seen the video? It's even more memorizing. I must've watched it 100 times before I could stop.

Could one pm me the link to said video? ;-)

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[ABolewski]

It was posted in the Nator FB page, I don't have a link to it.

[BigRedSpecial]

I used a 2.0 to 2.25 reducer, then a 2.25 joiner section, then the 2.25-2.5 elbow Cobb provided with the piping, which I trimmed ~1/2" off of. Fits perfectly and has rolled ends on the joiner so leaks aren't an issue.

Originally Posted by ABolewski Done up all purdy like, it's going to relentless customs (btw who is he on MSF?)

@xxdjfate76xx;

[xxdjfate76xx]

Thanks for the mention @BigRedSpecial;

@ABolewski; we spoke via email I believe about your quote, looking forward to it man

[BigBoostMS3]

Originally Posted by BigRedSpecial I used a 2.0 to 2.25 reducer, then a 2.25 joiner section, then the 2.25-2.5 elbow Cobb provided with the piping, which I trimmed ~1/2" off of. Fits perfectly and has rolled ends on the joiner so leaks aren't an issue.

Do you have a pic of your setup? That's pretty close to what I was planning to do.

Is the cobb turbo outlet coupler a 2.25 to 2.5 90deg? I thought it was 2.0 to 2.5 90deg. Guess I need to take it off and check. I thought the k04 had a 2.0" outlet...

[ABolewski]

@xxdjfate76xx; Just don't hold your breath, I'm not going to be home until May. Lol but as do I, with all your sexy powder coating and a wire tuck, I'm thinking my engine bay is going to be pretty sweet.

Also, I hate to beat a dead horse, but @JasonMzdSpd3; I think it would be a smarter idea to weld a piece of pipe to a $300 intercooler rather than a $1,600 turbo.
Any muffler shop should have spare pipe lying around to do this for you in less than 30 minutes for cheap.

[JasonMzdSpd3]

Originally Posted by ABolewski @xxdjfate76xx; Just don't hold your breath, I'm not going to be home until May. Lol but as do I, with all your sexy powder coating and a wire tuck, I'm thinking my engine bay is going to be pretty sweet. Also, I hate to beat a dead horse, but @JasonMzdSpd3; I think it would be a smarter idea to weld a piece of pipe to a $300 intercooler rather than a $1,600 turbo. Any muffler shop should have spare pipe lying around to do this for you in less than 30 minutes for cheap.

You are correct. Just random thoughts is all. I definitely want to figure a way out that creates less connections. Maybe a shop can make a reducer coupling that can be welded. I am just hesitate to purchase a coupler that may not even work. Least with a shop they physically see what you want.

The way mine is now is just not the way it should be. Kind of hits the hood.


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[alphasaur]

Originally Posted by Mortose Ok, so me and @JasonMzdSpd3; have been discussing FMIC setups for our cars being that we both have the 2867. Something that has come up was the coupler that goes from the turbo to the hot pipe across the top of the motor. Both of us are running a coupler to a joiner to another coupler. I've done some looking around and haven't seen anyone ever mention running into this problem. So, i pose this question: How is everyone else setting up there FMIC piping? what kind of coupler are folks using? In the mean time, i'm going to talk to Silicone Intakes here in the Springs to see if they can ether make, or provide a coupler that can support a FMIC application i.e. longer as well as a step up to support 2.25" piping.

I'm using a 45 degree 2-2.5 coupler from silicone intakes, I can take a photo. It's long.

[ms6mil]

Tube Reducer

DIY Intercooler Piping

Silicone Turbo Hoses

[Lex]

I've seen a few setups where the hot pipe is not braced and bangs against the hood or valve cover.

Bracing that hot pipe is a great idea to stabilize the coupler connections, prevent noise and possible false kr.

[JasonMzdSpd3]

Originally Posted by ms6mil Tube Reducer DIY Intercooler Piping Silicone Turbo Hoses

That is basically what I am running now. I couldn't make it up to the actual warehouse and pick them up so I had MAC's, local performance shop make me one.

My thoughts are using a 90 degree one, and just cutting the intercooling pipe and have a bead rolled. This will eliminate the need for that middle pipe and 2 extra clamps. Problem is, not sure how long it needs to be from the turbo. Another suggestion was given to me was to have a pipe welded to the intercooler pipe and basically measured in a shop going to the turbo and use a single coupler. Problem there is it could get very costly for a custom job like that. I had to mess with that setup you linked for about an hour before I could get a proper seal. In doing that, it messed up the alignment of the rest of the cooler pipping and when I hit boost the coupler pops up.. So.... what to do, what to do.

Originally Posted by Lex I've seen a few setups where the hot pipe is not braced and bangs against the hood or valve cover. Bracing that hot pipe is a great idea to stabilize the coupler connections, prevent noise and possible false kr.

It "basically" braces when it's clamped down.. But my main concern is the alignment of the pipping itself.

[Jansi]

Originally Posted by JasonMzdSpd3 That is basically what I am running now. I couldn't make it up to the actual warehouse and pick them up so I had MAC's, local performance shop make me one. My thoughts are using a 90 degree one, and just cutting the intercooling pipe and have a bead rolled. This will eliminate the need for that middle pipe and 2 extra clamps. Problem is, not sure how long it needs to be from the turbo. Another suggestion was given to me was to have a pipe welded to the intercooler pipe and basically measured in a shop going to the turbo and use a single coupler. Problem there is it could get very costly for a custom job like that. I had to mess with that setup you linked for about an hour before I could get a proper seal. In doing that, it messed up the alignment of the rest of the cooler pipping and when I hit boost the coupler pops up.. So.... what to do, what to do. It "basically" braces when it's clamped down.. But my main concern is the alignment of the pipping itself.

I would much rather have two extra clamps than spend all that extra money on something that already works. Seriously, this has been on my car for a few thousand miles and holds 24 psi just fine plus looks clean. To each their own.

[ms6mil]

Originally Posted by JasonMzdSpd3 That is basically what I am running now. I couldn't make it up to the actual warehouse and pick them up so I had MAC's, local performance shop make me one. My thoughts are using a 90 degree one, and just cutting the intercooling pipe and have a bead rolled. This will eliminate the need for that middle pipe and 2 extra clamps. Problem is, not sure how long it needs to be from the turbo. Another suggestion was given to me was to have a pipe welded to the intercooler pipe and basically measured in a shop going to the turbo and use a single coupler. Problem there is it could get very costly for a custom job like that. I had to mess with that setup you linked for about an hour before I could get a proper seal. In doing that, it messed up the alignment of the rest of the cooler pipping and when I hit boost the coupler pops up.. So.... what to do, what to do. It "basically" braces when it's clamped down.. But my main concern is the alignment of the pipping itself.

Originally Posted by Jansi I would much rather have two extra clamps than spend all that extra money on something that already works. Seriously, this has been on my car for a few thousand miles and holds 24 psi just fine plus looks clean. To each their own.

Works on mine as well. I bought better t-clamps.. holding @ 26psi. The alignment does take some tweakin but as @JacksonMS30; said above its been working for everyone else. Post up some pix of your alignment issues.. maybe we can get a better look at what your working against.

Also I thought about going the route you talked about with the single pipe, was gonna take some welding, 90 degree couplers. was gonna be too costly.

This setup clearly shows that it works, with no alignment issues.

[JasonMzdSpd3]

Originally Posted by Jansi I would much rather have two extra clamps than spend all that extra money on something that already works. Seriously, this has been on my car for a few thousand miles and holds 24 psi just fine plus looks clean. To each their own.

No, you are 1000% correct. It's just more suggestions from another MS3 owner currently deployed. I would love to have that single coupler. I am still shocked CP-E, COBB or another big named brand has not made this coupler..

Originally Posted by ms6mil Works on mine as well. I bought better t-clamps.. holding @ 26psi. The alignment does take some tweakin but as @JacksonMS30; said above its been working for everyone else. Post up some pix of your alignment issues.. maybe we can get a better look at what your working against. Also I thought about going the route you talked about with the single pipe, was gonna take some welding, 90 degree couplers. was gonna be too costly. This setup clearly shows that it works, with no alignment issues.

Problem I am running into is I think maybe the metal joiner might be to long.. Throwing off how the intercooler pipping should be on the stock turbo. So, that in turns messes up the alignment going down to the core. Where that bend is, is where the coupler pops off under boost. It's just to short and at an odd angle. I will take some pics for you guys tonight so you can see. I wanted to possible change the pipping kit. Maybe COBB, IDK. But I think with the right setup coming off the turbo allowing the proper alignment, I won't need to do that.

[ms6mil]

Originally Posted by JasonMzdSpd3 No, you are 1000% correct. It's just more suggestions from another MS3 owner currently deployed. I would love to have that single coupler. I am still shocked CP-E, COBB or another big named brand has not made this coupler.. Problem I am running into is I think maybe the metal joiner might be to long.. Throwing off how the intercooler pipping should be on the stock turbo. So, that in turns messes up the alignment going down to the core. Where that bend is, is where the coupler pops off under boost. It's just to short and at an odd angle. I will take some pics for you guys tonight so you can see. I wanted to possible change the pipping kit. Maybe COBB, IDK. But I think with the right setup coming off the turbo allowing the proper alignment, I won't need to do that.

I thought, like in the OP, you were working with something other than the K04. @Jonathanhair07; has this FMIC setup on the K04 maybe he can post some pix of how he made it work.

[JasonMzdSpd3]

Originally Posted by ms6mil I thought, like in the OP, you were working with something other than the K04. @Jonathanhair07; has this FMIC setup on the K04 maybe he can post some pix of how he made it work.

Yea I am running a GTX2867. I will re read what I wrote and see where I may have messed up what I was I trying to say.


Edit. So what I was trying to say is, the stock turbo the piping lines up just right so none of the other couplers pop off during boost. The way it is now. It pops off off hitting 22psi. It'd out alignment because of how the couplers are connected and so on. Just throws it off a bit.

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[rigor]

only way to run a hot pipe

[Mortose]

Have to say, that's pretty fuckin slick.

[doctavus]

Ok that is a great looking engine bay!!

[JasonMzdSpd3]

This may the answer. Not the best color but it looks long enough and it's the right size.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171152941855

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