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 Old 01-11-2011, 07:06 PM   #41
 
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i'm amish when it comes to wiring lol so im waitin til we get some people runnin this and figured out b4 i screw somethin up
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 Old 01-11-2011, 07:08 PM   #42
 
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Yea me too. That's why I'm not doing it without the blessings of the MSF gods
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 Old 01-11-2011, 07:38 PM   #43
 
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Originally Posted by spnkr21 View Post
OK I traced the 4 green wires to the junction in the middle of the wiring harness


The 4 wires go in, then 2 wires come out. So which is which? I tried looking through the manual but I must be dumb and can't find shit.

The red arrow is one of the green wires that goes towards the cdfp area.
The orange arrow goes to the orange box.

Any ideas?
According to the posted instructions..

All you need to do is disconnect the four green coil wires from the main bundle..

The output of your BAS connects to those four wires running to the coils...

The input to the BAS get connected to the green wire(s) running back into the main bundle..
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 Old 01-11-2011, 07:49 PM   #44
 
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In that junction there is, what looks like, glue coming out of it? Just don't want to damage anything. Do you know what's going on in there?
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 Old 01-11-2011, 08:03 PM   #45
 
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It's probably just the adhesive from that piece of shrink wrap.

If your really worried about it, just use a razor blade and remove the shrink wrap. You should clearly see where are the coil wires are joined inside it...
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 Old 01-11-2011, 08:36 PM   #46
 
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tap tap not it lol
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 Old 01-11-2011, 10:08 PM   #47
 
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Im really curious how this pans out. Keep up the good work. This will be my next mod if it works.
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 Old 01-12-2011, 07:19 AM   #48
 
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me too, i got my switch!
they had a chip go bad on a buddy's truck so i said when you send it back, ship me a boost switch, never called to bill me he spiffed me the switch!! n/c great to deal with no questions asked just corrected the problem!!

they seem to be very nice to deal with ...
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 Old 01-12-2011, 02:15 PM   #49
 
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Ok now I'm confused haha. SS you said that the power wire for the condenser comes from the same junction. What is a condenser and where is it located? Is it ok for the condenser to get more power also?
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 Old 01-12-2011, 02:43 PM   #50
 
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Originally Posted by kmac View Post
He should prob pick up a basic electrical book considering dc is the movement of electrons which flow from neg to pos not pos to neg.
HAHA I was going to say the same thing, that electrons flow from negative to positive source. DC says it all direct current, not direct voltage lol..oh well I still think he made a decent point as far as protection
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 Old 01-12-2011, 02:57 PM   #51
 
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Originally Posted by spnkr21 View Post
Ok now I'm confused haha. SS you said that the power wire for the condenser comes from the same junction. What is a condenser and where is it located? Is it ok for the condenser to get more power also?
I'm not sure what condenser the manual is referring to...but the diagram shows it located over by the HPFP...

I would not overdrive anything but the coils...
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 Old 01-12-2011, 03:21 PM   #52
 
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SS, where did you find the color code for the 12 volt constant for the coils? I skimmed through the FSM, but could not find it in the ignition section.
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 Old 01-12-2011, 03:45 PM   #53
 
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well there are 6 wires all connected
1 power that separates to 5 wires
4 to the cp's and 1 to this condenser

Ok I found the condenser and am confused at what it does. It has the one green power wire going to it and nothing coming out. Located right by the fuel pump like you said. So can that get upped voltage? WTF does it do!!!!!
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 Old 01-12-2011, 05:06 PM   #54
 
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Ok figured it out. (I think) After talking with Scott he thought everything would be fine but, to call kenne bell and see what they said.
Everything is a go to splice the green wire that leads to the junction.
In my other post the orange arrow that leads to the orange box is the wire that must be cut.
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 Old 01-12-2011, 06:20 PM   #55
 
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Originally Posted by SilverDemon View Post
SS, where did you find the color code for the 12 volt constant for the coils? I skimmed through the FSM, but could not find it in the ignition section.
It's in diagram 140-3a in the electrical manual.. Power comes from the main fuse block triggered by the ignition switch and the PCM through the main relay.

Originally Posted by spnkr21 View Post
Ok figured it out. (I think) After talking with Scott he thought everything would be fine but, to call kenne bell and see what they said.
Everything is a go to splice the green wire that leads to the junction.
In my other post the orange arrow that leads to the orange box is the wire that must be cut.
Is the condenser grounded? Does it bolt directly to a piece of metal? It's possible it's nothing more than a small capacitor to smooth out voltage spikes caused by the coils firing...
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 Old 01-12-2011, 06:23 PM   #56
 
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That is all I get from what I saw, I do have a meter that will read capacitance, I can check it tomorrow.

EDIT:
If we run more voltage than the cap is good for, than I am sure I can locate a cap that will be capable of holding the higher voltage.
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 Old 01-12-2011, 06:24 PM   #57
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pic of condenser?
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 Old 01-12-2011, 06:27 PM   #58
 
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On the speed 3, it is located on the right side of the HPFP, kind of under the bracket that holds the coil, and injector harness connectors
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 Old 01-12-2011, 07:25 PM   #59
 
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I went out and did some measurements and took some pics. The capacitor measures 470 microfarrad. On the bracket in front of the HPFP, there is a single bolt that is under the hose that leads to the purge valve that holds the condenser in place.
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 Old 01-12-2011, 07:28 PM   #60
 
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You're the man Scott.
I'm gonna buy some shrink wrap and solder everything tomorrow.
I'll post pics when I'm done.
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 Old 01-13-2011, 08:49 PM   #61
 
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any luck spnkr?
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 Old 01-14-2011, 04:08 AM   #62
 
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Yup I've got everything soldered. Just putting the harness all back together with elec tape. Feels good to work on the car again. This is the one thing that has been holding me back
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 Old 01-14-2011, 06:49 AM   #63
 
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let us know how it works out!!!!
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 Old 01-14-2011, 07:03 AM   #64
 
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did you take pics were you cut it and added the bas?
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nishan said theirs a easy 550 in the setup if i had the fuel but meh...

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at 104000 2 bent rods

current miles 113000 and runs perfect! no hiccups!

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 Old 01-14-2011, 09:02 AM   #65
 
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I ripped apart the wiring harness to make sure I had the correct wire. You will have to do this anyway so you can get enough room to solder the wires together.
In the pics I posted before, the wire you cut is the green one coming out of the plug with a orange box around it.
I'll post pics of it when it's all buttoned up. I won't be able to test it till feb after my wastegate pipe gets fixed.
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 Old 01-14-2011, 11:30 AM   #66
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Glad i was able to help all of you guys.......












lol, jk... this ninja's been so freaking busy, i haven't even been helping myself lol.

In for results and good job again!
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 Old 01-22-2011, 06:52 PM   #67
 
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ok did a how to on the second post of this thread hope it helps!

man it works awesome!

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472 hp 461tq virtual dyno and ran out of fuel!

nishan said theirs a easy 550 in the setup if i had the fuel but meh...

54,000 miles big turbo! stock block

at 104000 2 bent rods

current miles 113000 and runs perfect! no hiccups!

tuned by nishan
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 Old 01-22-2011, 08:19 PM   #68
 
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how high you got it turned up man?
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 Old 01-22-2011, 09:06 PM   #69
 
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That thing looks exactly like my Boost-A-Pump...
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 Old 01-22-2011, 09:14 PM   #70
 
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i think their one in the same !
i think about 17-18v
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472 hp 461tq virtual dyno and ran out of fuel!

nishan said theirs a easy 550 in the setup if i had the fuel but meh...

54,000 miles big turbo! stock block

at 104000 2 bent rods

current miles 113000 and runs perfect! no hiccups!

tuned by nishan
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 Old 01-23-2011, 05:47 AM   #71
 
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Really nice write up and pics!
I'm glad you tested the volts
You must have it set between 10-20?
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 Old 01-23-2011, 08:16 AM   #72
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Great write-up Justin! Now tune and more backwoods video.
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 Old 01-23-2011, 09:13 AM   #73
 
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I figure more pics is always better...
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 Old 01-23-2011, 09:34 AM   #74
 
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short and sweet lol, i think im @ about 18v but that is just were i tried it @, i cold probably turn it down but it runs great !
made it a completely different car, took the laziness out of it! and gave it very crisp throttle and no sign of missing !!
but dyno states 20 horse lol, of course i needed it bad

before i was running 24 gap now im running 42 gap, way smother idle, and transition to different speeds, is way smoother, i think that was half the problems tuning!
ignition is often over looked, and you end up with less then stellar results! im a firm believer in this

both times ive done it, i got awesome results, your crazy if you think the stock ignition is good enough! it is simply bad

i wish i would of done this in 07 lol
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BT T3 .5557 @25 psi 10. 6:1 peformance3 pistons, manley rods arp 625+ rod bolts, arp L19 head studs, Ap, 4'' inlet rr mani 4'' custom inlet, ,2.5'' ic piping, treadstone intercooler tr10 , turbosmart bov , tail 44mm wg, cobb electronic boost control 1 3/4 screamer p, odyssey batt, cs racepipe, custom 3'' dp 80mm cat back 80mm, egr del, vcts del, and port matched,sure tig's, running 100% meth 2000 cc, ATC 6 puck sl fw

472 hp 461tq virtual dyno and ran out of fuel!

nishan said theirs a easy 550 in the setup if i had the fuel but meh...

54,000 miles big turbo! stock block

at 104000 2 bent rods

current miles 113000 and runs perfect! no hiccups!

tuned by nishan
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 Old 01-23-2011, 09:42 AM   #75
 
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I agree rigor. I also can't believe, and correct me if I'm wrong, that our stock spark wires are 22gauge. WTF?
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 Old 01-23-2011, 09:46 AM   #76
 
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ya im thinking of upgrading it, but that would take some fooling around,
saved some money their, the fools
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 Old 01-23-2011, 09:49 AM   #77
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Would it be possible to more clearly identify which wire you are tapping into? I see a couple green wires in the harness...
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 Old 01-23-2011, 09:54 AM   #78
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I would take it easy with how much voltage you push threw that thing.

We have no upgrades for coil packs, and them things aint cheap either. I would start with a low reading and work my way up. If you can run 14v and have no issues why push it and run say 16v-18v. There is a chance of frying the spring o coil pack its self. Its not fun to come home in 3 cylinders just saying.


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 Old 01-23-2011, 10:04 AM   #79
 
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your funny, my msd on my jeep pushes upwards of 450v to fire the coil continuously!

the bas only ups voltage under boost !!

the wire on the pic here, see the red tab on the plug? 2nd one to the left on the bottom then un plug a coil pack and do a continuity test from the big plug, to the green wire on the pack it's self, i wouldn't rely on orientation, you need to do the quick test! ya their is like 4 green wires

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472 hp 461tq virtual dyno and ran out of fuel!

nishan said theirs a easy 550 in the setup if i had the fuel but meh...

54,000 miles big turbo! stock block

at 104000 2 bent rods

current miles 113000 and runs perfect! no hiccups!

tuned by nishan
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 Old 01-23-2011, 10:04 AM   #80
 
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I'm wondering if this is a simple fix for one/two step colder plugs so that I can run the cooler plugs year round. The way it is currently on the stock coils, I have to run the stock plugs in winter or it won't start near 0 degrees F on two step colder. I'd have to bypass the boost switch though or it wouldn't help on starts. Hummmmmmmm... anyone want to buy me one to test out?
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