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 Old 01-23-2011, 10:13 AM   #81
 
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Originally Posted by bnoon View Post
I'm wondering if this is a simple fix for one/two step colder plugs so that I can run the cooler plugs year round. The way it is currently on the stock coils, I have to run the stock plugs in winter or it won't start near 0 degrees F on two step colder. I'd have to bypass the boost switch though or it wouldn't help on starts. Hummmmmmmm... anyone want to buy me one to test out?
wouldn't help with starting, (it only activates under boost) the other offering may help you hks? can't remember
but it amplify's spark all the time, but i have no room to talk their
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at 104000 2 bent rods

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 Old 01-23-2011, 11:04 AM   #82
 
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The addition of a simple switch to bypass the boost activated switch could be added to let the BAS be activated at start up, then once the car is warmed up it could switched back to operate on the boost switch.
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 Old 01-23-2011, 11:25 AM   #83
 
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good point! use a momentary switch
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472 hp 461tq virtual dyno and ran out of fuel!

nishan said theirs a easy 550 in the setup if i had the fuel but meh...

54,000 miles big turbo! stock block

at 104000 2 bent rods

current miles 113000 and runs perfect! no hiccups!

tuned by nishan
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 Old 01-23-2011, 12:36 PM   #84
 
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Originally Posted by JMEngineer View Post
It would take you guys FOREVER to figure out a Haltech Platinum Sport 2000 or even an A'PEXi AVR-R.
Are those types of dildos?
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 Old 01-23-2011, 12:39 PM   #85
 
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Originally Posted by spnkr21 View Post
Are those types of dildos?
Lol Tim
Some people get complicated in what they want out of an ass-ram. Big and Black doesn't cut it for everyone....
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 Old 01-23-2011, 12:41 PM   #86
 
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I'm easy to please.
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 Old 01-23-2011, 03:09 PM   #87
 
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You've got my interest in this for sure. Very straight forward install. I'm pretty much out of stuff to buy for the car other than top mount turbo, so a little project is always appreciated

Thanks for the info/write-up!
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 Old 02-03-2011, 05:00 AM   #88
Must Have Teh 10's!

 
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guh bump for a full write up for the next person who does this!!!

rigor how much did u pay?
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 Old 02-03-2011, 07:06 AM   #89
 
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i think it is 250 new
i did a little how too on the 2nd post of this thread!

i traded turd for my 38mm w/g
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472 hp 461tq virtual dyno and ran out of fuel!

nishan said theirs a easy 550 in the setup if i had the fuel but meh...

54,000 miles big turbo! stock block

at 104000 2 bent rods

current miles 113000 and runs perfect! no hiccups!

tuned by nishan
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 Old 02-03-2011, 01:36 PM   #90
 
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i think i might do it soon, but i always find myself not givin a shit about my car since somethin happens that discourages me lol so you're at .40 gap and 19v right now rigs?
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 Old 02-03-2011, 01:50 PM   #91
 
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i see most of you are pretty heavily modded....do you think this would work well with a slightly bolted car (SRI/TP)? also you mentioned you upped the gap to .40? reasoning behind that number? experimented? how does it run out of boost with the gap that high? should you also do this with step colders only or could it be implemented with an oem plug?


also im a little confused on how much additional voltage this applies....under normal conditions the coils receive 14 V right? on your testing pictures it showed that between 0 and 10 there was a 2V increase...so does that mean when it is set at 10 we are now giving the coils 16 V?
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 Old 02-03-2011, 02:15 PM   #92
 
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I'm pretty sure it is percentage.
So 10% of stock volts is added when on '10'.
Also I think rigor means he's running .040 gap.
I'm currently running stock plugs/gap. But can't test for another month or so..
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 Old 02-03-2011, 02:20 PM   #93
 
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ah k percentage makes sense

you are installed though right spnkr? what are your impressions?

in my eyes i see this as basically a MBC....just different....
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 Old 02-03-2011, 03:13 PM   #94
 
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I did drive the car and everything seems good. Won't know till I can do several wot pulls.
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 Old 02-03-2011, 06:46 PM   #95
 
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i just ran the plugs the way they came pre gapped@.042
set@ 40 0n the dial, works good! the car runs way smoother with the wider gap....
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472 hp 461tq virtual dyno and ran out of fuel!

nishan said theirs a easy 550 in the setup if i had the fuel but meh...

54,000 miles big turbo! stock block

at 104000 2 bent rods

current miles 113000 and runs perfect! no hiccups!

tuned by nishan
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 Old 02-05-2011, 09:18 AM   #96
 
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^what i dont understand is how it runs well out of boost? this only applies the voltage at boost...so wouldnt it have trouble with higher gapped plugs out of boost?

also....i guess im still grappling with what is being gained here......you are running more voltage in boost....sooo what? hotter spark? what are we gaining?
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 Old 02-05-2011, 02:31 PM   #97
 
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Originally Posted by TRex View Post
^what i dont understand is how it runs well out of boost? this only applies the voltage at boost...so wouldnt it have trouble with higher gapped plugs out of boost?

also....i guess im still grappling with what is being gained here......you are running more voltage in boost....sooo what? hotter spark? what are we gaining?
It runs better out of boost because its getting a hotter and cleaner spark. The problem with running a big gap is not nearly as much of a concern when cruising out of boost than it is under boost. Spark gets blown out under boost and thats why the BAS activates and provides a stronger spark. There is not enough cylinder pressure under cruising conditions to blow out spark with the gaps that rigor is running.
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 Old 02-07-2011, 01:44 PM   #98
 
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So you could play around with gaps and settings on the BAS then huh? How would you know you blew out your spark? I assume it would be a stumble of some sort?
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 Old 02-07-2011, 09:43 PM   #99
 
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ya it is a noticeable miss
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472 hp 461tq virtual dyno and ran out of fuel!

nishan said theirs a easy 550 in the setup if i had the fuel but meh...

54,000 miles big turbo! stock block

at 104000 2 bent rods

current miles 113000 and runs perfect! no hiccups!

tuned by nishan
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 Old 02-07-2011, 10:16 PM   #100
 
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dyno?
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 Old 02-08-2011, 04:28 AM   #101
 
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Soon. I already have a before bas dyno. This spring!!
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 Old 03-17-2011, 12:23 PM   #102
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any more data on this thing?
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 Old 03-17-2011, 01:39 PM   #103
 
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So soon. It's nice out today so ima try and do some wot pulls.

If I don't get too drunk.
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 Old 03-17-2011, 01:50 PM   #104
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So hks or bas?
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 Old 03-17-2011, 02:57 PM   #105
 
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Originally Posted by gerry@ardesign View Post
So hks or bas?
BAS for sure, all these guys are using it and my friend suggested it over HKS.

i'll be buying this soon as well..
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 Old 03-17-2011, 04:57 PM   #106
 
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Did some wot pulls.
No misfires but gotta up the timing
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 Old 03-17-2011, 05:19 PM   #107
 
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What voltage level did you start out with?
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 Old 03-17-2011, 05:22 PM   #108
 
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I'm only at 12% right now.
Jake will keep upping the timing and we'll see what happens.
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 Old 03-17-2011, 06:19 PM   #109
 
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gap?
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 Old 03-17-2011, 06:26 PM   #110
 
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Stock plugs
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 Old 03-17-2011, 09:54 PM   #111
 
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Thanks for the great info and write up. I think I am going to install this and hope it fixes all the spark plug issues and the blowout I have been getting lately. Already closed my gap down, but could go more. But I think the car will drive better as this is the true fix. Probably go with 1 step colder plugs, just need to determine the gap to use, though as long as it doesn't blowout im happy

EDIT: Think im going to go the 1 step colder ngk and leave at .042 gap like rigor. Dont really want to run 19v though, so hopefully 10-15% extra will do.
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 Old 03-18-2011, 05:38 AM   #112
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hmmm what does timing have to do with spark gap?

i thought blowout was purely boost/power related. timing is merely, well, timing of the spark lol not the power of it.

so why wouldent u just run a colder plug with bigger gap? wont a colder plug help knock?



i also noticed that theres 2 version, NA and FI. i assume you have the FI? does that mean it only operates when boost pressure is above 0?
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 Old 03-18-2011, 09:06 AM   #113
 
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It operates at 4psi+
More timing equals more power
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 Old 03-18-2011, 02:25 PM   #114
 
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Ordered mine today. Little worried about the install. Looks easy but i'm doubting my soldering skills...

Gonna try just 1 step colder densos and see how it runs. Not looking to have this make me tons of power, just eliminate the blowout. So the .032 gap of the densos (which has always caused me issues) should be resolved. I can play with gap more after my track day coming up in a few weeks. Just need the car running first.
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 Old 03-20-2011, 06:18 PM   #115
 
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I'm curious - what's the stock output voltage on the coils and then as it's boosted via the BAS?
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 Old 03-22-2011, 04:12 PM   #116
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just ordered. will post results.

rigs, do you know if MS6 pinout is same as MS3?
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 Old 03-22-2011, 09:09 PM   #117
 
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Originally Posted by superskaterxes View Post
just ordered. will post results.

rigs, do you know if MS6 pinout is same as MS3?
i think it is the same, BUT I COULD BE WRONG! all you have to do is trace back the hot off the coils, to were they join together and splice their to pick up all 4 coil hots!

if memory serves it is a green wire

pm dj

also mine is working great @ 19 volts for several months since january!
and car is running kick ass!!
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 Old 03-22-2011, 11:31 PM   #118
 
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Originally Posted by rigor View Post
if memory serves it is a green wire

According to the wiring diagram I have its green with a blue stripe on one side of the plug and green on the other. Hopefully there is just one solid green wire in the harness.
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 Old 03-23-2011, 05:33 PM   #119
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You can use an ohmeter and needles on the leads to prick wires and check continuity.
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 Old 03-25-2011, 05:53 AM   #120
 
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Originally Posted by MattJackson86 View Post
Ordered mine today. Little worried about the install. Looks easy but i'm doubting my soldering skills...
I always use this kind of splice when making permanent connections:
Master a perfect inline wire splice everytime

These instructions are a bit long but it's the first link I found to the technique I was looking for. With the right size wire you can literally pull on both ends as hard as you can and not have it come apart even without shrink tube/electrical tape/solder. Get this down and your connections should be solid even if the soldering job isn't great.

If you're using shrink tube just make sure you put it over one of the wires before you make the splice - I can't tell you how many times I've made a perfect splice and had to cut it out because I forgot the shrink tube... And slide the shrink tube far away down the wire when you solder - I've made that mistake too.
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