MS6 BNR3 BTB Issues Please help

[ms6_nate]

delete thread plz

[Lex]

Nate, thanks for posting this and it sounds like you are listening to my suggestions.

Popping the dipstick at such low boost (14psi) is worrisome. Maybe the leak is at the PCV valve.

Since you are venting the valve cover to atmosphere if the PCV valve leaks lots into the crankcase you are going to have essentially a boost leak.

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by Lex Nate, thanks for posting this and it sounds like you are listening to my suggestions. Popping the dipstick at such low boost (14psi) is worrisome. Maybe the leak is at the PCV valve. Since you are venting the valve cover to atmosphere if the PCV valve leaks lots into the crankcase you are going to have essentially a boost leak.

Lex, what concentration of meth is the OP (sorry to talk about you in front of you) spraying?

[Bolted6]

Congratulations on the build progress. I'm planning on doing a similar set up. Did this set up meet your expectations?
One quick question, did you run stock size MAF? If so is the sensor near its max?
Did more tuning solve your studder?

[rolanblack]

@Mikey;


He had similar experiences

[Rayd]

Pm sent about your issues

[Volcom8190]

why not one stage colder plugs instead of stock heat range? I know I had KR issues on 93 till I dropped down a stage.

[scubasteve711]

Jeez... This is strikingly similar to the issues I've been having with KR too Definitely will be keeping an eye on this...

[TiGraySpeed6]

Lex and/or Nate-
Have either of you guys made changes to the KR tables?

The KR from 4700 thru 5800 looks an awful lot like the stock KR tables taking their own sweet time to recover

[Lex]

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 Lex and/or Nate- Have either of you guys made changes to the KR tables? The KR from 4700 thru 5800 looks an awful lot like the stock KR tables taking their own sweet time to recover

The decay is shorter than oem. The real issue here is the worse fuel I have ever seen. You can see how mild the timing is.

He does only get 1 kr event early on and Kr decays thereafter.

[rfinkle2]

With all due respect to Lex, switch to 100% meth and forget the h20.

[TiGraySpeed6]

ouch.
That's some special fuel.


thoughts, that have all been covered already I'm sure-
- step colder @ the same gap (.026)
- bump meth/water to perhaps a 70/30 ratio
- add a gallon or two of 104 or 112 as a test

Hell, it might even be a candidate to play with the Tol fuel blending that gets discussed occasionally.

google pasteage: Toluene fuel blend site:www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum



After that, perhaps it's just time to say it is what it is, and live with a calm quiet tune till something changes the equation...

I dunno, but that's my time waster for everybody today...

crappy fuel sucks.

[himurax13]

Nate don't feel bad, I have had all of these problems and worse (except for the extremely crappy fuel). I also blew 2 toyota injector seals as well. It is hard to tell for sure untill you get the intake manifold off.

[ms6_nate]

bump

[TiGraySpeed6]

If I read that last post right, you posted a log full of trouble, then asked if it was ready to tune? Did I read that right?

If so, then by default, no.

Let's see a better log of what's really your new normal to give a better idea of where you're at!

[TiGraySpeed6]

Sure enough!
That log looks MUCH cleaner than the last one posted, and I dare say there's room for some growth now!

[Manny]

@mOBSCENE;

[atvfreek]

Have you done a compression and leak down test, and is your engine using any oil? For the boost, timing, meth kit, and super rich afr's you are still seeing a lot of kr.

With the dip stick popping and rear main leaking, it seems as though you may have a base engine fault (aka high crank case pressure), and I would definitely investigate that before spending all that money on a clutch.

[Manny]

@mOBSCENE; come help your brother

[ms6_nate]

as per manny, @djuosnteisn;

[TiGraySpeed6]

I understand many of the single mass flywheels chatter. The Fidanza is famous for it.

[rfinkle2]

@Lex;

Your wgdc is very close to what it was in the past... that leads me to believe that you need a tweak to your 3 bar sensor.

Do you happen to remember / have a record of the model @ for the 3 bar sensor you purchased?

[James3Malnar]

MOVE TO SOMEWHERE THAT HAS 93oct. Canada is your first problem $40+ for a case of beer WTF?

[Lex]

The 3 Bar sensor part number should be: Bosch - 0 281 002 845
The map V1.50 is set for this 3 Bar.

[TiGraySpeed6]

Nate, I'm just curious, if you turn the key on but leave the engine off and set your AP to read boost psi, what reading does the AP show?
(KOEO Boost reading)

I'm confident Lex has you set well within acceptable parameters, but KOEO Boost is a quick way to double check that the settings for your 3 BAR are in the right neighborhood.

[Lex]

Nothing was changed on this new map aside from the MAP sensor scalars so this tells me something happened with the boost control system while the clutch was being replaced. I would check there first.

The mass flow numbers match well with the 13psi of boost.

[6ixof1]

Wow. Reading this thread was very informative. Glad you got it sorted out.

[ms6_nate]

delete

[Rayd]

Originally Posted by ms6_nate OK so my PCV is still mostly broken. its better, but not working enough still. My current oil leaks are both the main seal dripping at the bell housing, as well from around the starter hole now too. Im going to buy he perm plate, but am trying to figure out the check valaves needed and placement. here is my idea. Would this work or does the valve cover need to be open with no valve to allow constant flow with the IM vacuum?

Wow, man these coincidences are scary.... I actually just installed the perm plate with extra check valves yesterday...



Yet to turn it on to see if it affects the oil consumption issue I've been battling since I snapped a oil sump bolt... Trying to extract it now

[aaronc7]

Originally Posted by ms6_nate OK so my PCV is still mostly broken. its better, but not working enough still. My current oil leaks are both the main seal dripping at the bell housing, as well from around the starter hole now too. Im going to buy he perm plate, but am trying to figure out the check valaves needed and placement. here is my idea. Would this work or does the valve cover need to be open with no valve to allow constant flow with the IM vacuum?

I say ditch the check valve attached to the valve cover and eithe keep it VTA, or route it back into the intake, like the stock setup. Not having that check valve will allow air to be "sucked in" through that port at idle/cruise/vacuum conditions created by the intake manifold, which will allow a flow of clean air through the engine to get nasty blowby fumes etc out. Keeping the valve cover vent VTA, you would be sucking in un-metered air, some of which would make it to the intake mani/engine, but I'm not sure if it would be enough to really mess up fuel trims or be worth worrying about in idle conditions. Having the valvecover routed into the intake like it is stock you'd avoid this and all that air would be metered, plus you'll get better suction on the valvecover at WOT (as opposed to just being VTA, plus the pressure required to open the check valve).

If you've gone through all of these iterations of PCV setups and still having issues, it could just be your engine has excessive blowby-- maybe start thinking about an engine rebuild in the future. That may just be the root cause of all of this and you can only bandaid the problem for so long.

[ms6_nate]

delete

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by ms6_nate I have been racking ym brain RE: how I am getting this much blowby but not seeing anything on a compression tester (becuase they should show a dying cylinder), and im wondering if I have roughed up or slightly warped a cylinder when i bent a rod. Coincidently #3 is 160 compression (the rest are 175-183), and is the same hole i bent a rod in... I was not damaged or scuffed visibly in any way when i rebuilt. I dunno.... but i have decided once the PCV issues are fixed, and oil leaks fixed, and safe tune cleaned up by lex, the car is going for sale.

Cracked Ringlands.

[ms6_nate]

delete

[Lex]

Originally Posted by ms6_nate my latest log after installs

The AFRs are looking much smoother although the KR from the fuel is still there.

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by ms6_nate Just ordered BC Racing coil overs and a JBR EGR delete kit. Gonna upgrade to the AP V3 in a few weeks maybe too. I wish i could figure out where the knock in these maps is coming from, I cant imagine its from fuel, since im running 50/50 progressive meth.

If you would, and Lex agrees, give 100% meth a shot. If your fuel is really that awful (which I believe it is), you will benefit from the octane boost.

Give it a shot. You've done a lot of troubleshooting.. why not run a tank of 100% meth through your kit?

[Rayd]

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 If you would, and Lex agrees, give 100% meth a shot. If your fuel is really that awful (which I believe it is), you will benefit from the octane boost. Give it a shot. You've done a lot of troubleshooting.. why not run a tank of 100% meth through your kit?

Agreed, give the 100% meth a shot , our fuel in AUS is rubbish and i needed to run DO7 nozzle @ 100% meth for enough octane

[atvfreek]

Originally Posted by ms6_nate well my rear main is leaking because it was cracked/cut when i put it back in from my rebuild, and was too stupid/lazy to get a new one, as the stores were locked and i was alost ready to put engine back in the car. Completely my fault. And becuase of this, yes, the egine is using oil, its dripping through the tranny/engine seam. Drips here and there, about a liter a month or so. I did a compression test a while back, and it was all good accross the board. I dont have a leak down tester and have been trying to find one, but no luck so far. I borrowed my friends compression tester last night, and as soon as im off work im gonna compression test again. As far as this base enigne fault, high crankcase pressure, what would cause such a thing? Ever since i rerouted my vacuum lines to run off the TIP instead of the IM, i havent had any crankcase issues, i think the high boost was pressurizing things and is what caused my dipstick issue, and doing this and adding the OCC seems to have brought the KR down, but not perfect. I had KR like this before i bent a rod and rebult... I wanna forge my bottom end, but if this cars gonna continue like this, whats the point...

The base engine, high crank case pressure would be associated with large ring gaps, worn rings, cracked ring land, out of round bores etc. but you would see something in the compression and leak down test to lead you in that direction.

I was assuming the leaking rear main was due to high cc pressure and not a physical issue as you mentioned.

The kr could be from a number of things, I just see that your tune is set up very conservative for the high kr you are seeing. Could be something just rattling like hell in your engine bay, or loose/leaking injector seals.

[Hammology]

Subbed for similar KR issues, E85 seems to have cleared most of my WOT KR up though.

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by ms6_nate Any reason this wouldnt work?

Well this setup would only have vacuum in the crankcase under boost.

Sent via blown passenger side speakers.

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by ms6_nate when not in boost, the short blovk would be under vacuum, causing the valve cover to pull in fresh air no? not matter what situation, the short block will have vacuum being pulled by the TIP.

Where would the vacuum be coming from?

The stock PCV system uses the intake manifold for vacuum when not in boost.

That intake only has vacuum when a large amount of air being sucked into it.