MS6 HTA3076 Build

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

Alright so I picked up a HTA3076 T3 off of one of the facebook groups. I wasn't really planning on doing a thread, but given how much crap I'm going to have to do for this I guess I might as well get organized and get input from you gurus.

Anyway I decided I didn't really want to get a welded tubular manifold and risk it being cracked, and I didn't want the bad flow of a steedspeed, so I bought a tial turbine housing in .82AR for it. I could've gotten an amazing deal on a custom top mount manifold, which would've been freakin sweet, but I just wanted the reliability of the CPE cast mani.

Speaking of, that is the thing I am currently missing. I will buy a CPE Tial flanged mani here soon.

I worked with Edge and they hooked me up with some things I needed including a new turbo-tip coupler, egr primary delete, quiktap for boost source, Tial SS bolt and clamp kit, boost tee, and hose(I'm going to move my EBCS since it's currently on my firewall and is annoying at times).

I got a tial MVR 44mm wastegate and dumptube from mr. lakespeed6 here on the forums. I don't know if the dumptube will work on my setup, but hey maybe it'll be close. It currently has 20.30psi spring in it from what I can tell, but I'll probably switch it to 15.95psi spring. I wouldn't mind leaving it at 20.30, but I'm not sure if that's too high for a bare minimum 91 pump gas tune. I also still need some headroom for my EWG to crack open and I'm not sure what psi will put me at what power level. I'm stock block so I don't want to go too crazy for now.

I've been reading around and I'm not sure if the oil return that came in the ATP kit will work. It seems that many people have issues because of the TC on the speed6s. I'm not too happy about that so hopefully someone helps me out with suggestions for that.

I have an M2 downpipe so it has a vband connection. My only concern here is if it is long enough to reach without causing issues. I am planning on having my local welder do the fabbing since it may be required. If it doesn't, then awesome!

As for tuning, I was considering just doing it right and getting Nishan to tune me, but I haven't decided. I've tuned my car and I'm confident I can do it(and at a faster pace), but I'm worried that my aggressiveness will destroy my car. My current tune is awesome on my BNR since I hit my goal of 400awhp, but that torque can't be good long term. I'll decide at some point, but I'll definitely be doing a base tune on pure 91 + 100% meth, then do a tune of a e85(4gal)/pure 91(12gal) + 100% Meth if necessary. I really don't know where I'll hit my limit of safe on rods/octane.

I was planning on running my EWG lines like jmhinkle did here: Grimmspeed and EWG
I just need to get the quik tap installed in the coupler and do the routing.

I'm probably forgetting something so I'll edit it later if I remember. Any advice, suggestions, or words of encouragement are greatly accepted This is already becoming more than I wanted to deal with haha. That's just how it goes I guess.

What I Have:
HTA3076
Tial Turbine Housing(clamp and bolt kit)
ATP gt30 oil/coolant line kit
Quik Tap
Primary EGR Delete(Kozmic)
Tial MVR 44mm wastegate
Custom dumptube from lakespeed6
New turbo-tip 4"-3" silicone reducer
boost tee, hose for routing

What I Need:
CPE Tial Mani
DP potentially fabbed up to mate to turbine housing
Oil Return sorted out

I'll get pics up when I get home!

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

Adding pictures!

Turbo pics. Just replaced the turbine housing and preclocked the turbo. Probably not perfect but the bolts won't be stuck on like they were getting the t3 housing off so it shouldn't be too hard at all. Anyone know the proper torque for these bolts?




ATP line kit and stuff. Wrote what I'm pretty sure everything is haha. Not sure what the silicone hose is for there... Doesn't fit on my hotside. I measured it at just under 2.5" and the silicone is a 2" silicone bend. I assume the AN hose is the oil drain and the bolt in the bag is a oil restrictor bolt for the feed? Since it didn't come with a hose for that I assume I reuse the stock feed.




And finally my EWG and dumptube. I need to replace the springs but from what I've read it'll be much easier if I get a bar clamp to close it back up so I'll get one before I attempt that.

[avesfan101]

That drain line won't work. Search around for some pics of what people have done.
I suggest making up your own oil feed line. Pretty easy to do. Just need a few fittings and some dash 3 stainless line. You're gonna have to remove the alternator to get to the block side of it. I am not sure if the HTA requires a restrictor or not. Might want to look into that.
If I'm also not mistaken, the tial hot side has a different flange than the m2 downpipe. You're gonna need to add a few inches to the dp anyways to get it to meet up to the hotside. Right now, the 5 bolts to vband adaptor takes up that space.
Let me know if you have any questions or get stuck. Just went through a lot of the same things and I'm happy to help.

[avesfan101]

What size intake are you going to run?

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

Originally Posted by avesfan101 That drain line won't work. Search around for some pics of what people have done. I suggest making up your own oil feed line. Pretty easy to do. Just need a few fittings and some dash 3 stainless line. You're gonna have to remove the alternator to get to the block side of it. I am not sure if the HTA requires a restrictor or not. Might want to look into that. If I'm also not mistaken, the tial hot side has a different flange than the m2 downpipe. You're gonna need to add a few inches to the dp anyways to get it to meet up to the hotside. Right now, the 5 bolts to vband adaptor takes up that space. Let me know if you have any questions or get stuck. Just went through a lot of the same things and I'm happy to help.

I've sourced a stock speed6 oil drain line and it's currently getting cut and a 10AN fitting welded on it. Similar to this: PTE 5858 - MS6 Its really happening

I was reaaaaally hoping to stick with what came in the ATP kit since I paid for it... will I be in trouble using stock oil feed plus the banjo bolt the kit came with?
I was planning on tackling the restrictor how I've read for the ATP. There are mixed answers, but the one I am comfortable with after reading them all is to see how things go with the banjo bolt in the kit, and if I'm burning oil, then I'll run a restrictor. I believe too much oil is better than too little. It's the same CHRA as a standard gt3076R so the ATP stuff SHOULD be fine.
I think the flanges are the same since both are supposedly 3" vband's but yeah I'm pretty certain I'll have to get it extended to mate up properly. I have a shop I'm working with now to get that sorted out.

Originally Posted by avesfan101 What size intake are you going to run?

For now I'm sticking with my 3" HTP TIP and 3.25"ID SSP/Kozmic BigMAF SRI combo.
I want to go to a 3.5 or 4" full intake from HTP, but need to figure out a battery situation. I'd rather relocate than run a small battery so I might end up going that route. I know I should be doing it now, but I'm stock block for now anyway so I'm convinced the motor will be the limit, not the intake.

[avesfan101]

Originally Posted by fivefingerdeathpunch I've sourced a stock speed6 oil drain line and it's currently getting cut and a 10AN fitting welded on it. Similar to this: PTE 5858 - MS6 Its really happening I was reaaaaally hoping to stick with what came in the ATP kit since I paid for it... will I be in trouble using stock oil feed plus the banjo bolt the kit came with? I was planning on tackling the restrictor how I've read for the ATP. There are mixed answers, but the one I am comfortable with after reading them all is to see how things go with the banjo bolt in the kit, and if I'm burning oil, then I'll run a restrictor. I believe too much oil is better than too little. It's the same CHRA as a standard gt3076R so the ATP stuff SHOULD be fine. I think the flanges are the same since both are supposedly 3" vband's but yeah I'm pretty certain I'll have to get it extended to mate up properly. I have a shop I'm working with now to get that sorted out. For now I'm sticking with my 3" HTP TIP and 3.25"ID SSP/Kozmic BigMAF SRI combo. I want to go to a 3.5 or 4" full intake from HTP, but need to figure out a battery situation. I'd rather relocate than run a small battery so I might end up going that route. I know I should be doing it now, but I'm stock block for now anyway so I'm convinced the motor will be the limit, not the intake.

I like that drain line. Looks pretty sweet.
The gt3076 does not require a restrictor. The stock oil like is definitely prone to failure when bending it around. Especially if you've already done it a few times.
I'd suggest just ditching the alternator while you get the drain line all hooked up and situated anyways. You won't believe how big the cpe mani is back there. Very little room to shove your hand down in there with the alternator in. 3 bolts and it's out. while you have it out, boom new oil feed line.

Battery relocation is stupid easy. Takes about an hour.
Ditch that 3" and go bigger. You won't regret it.


A 3.5" like my old one is cool

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

Originally Posted by avesfan101 I like that drain line. Looks pretty sweet. The gt3076 does not require a restrictor. The stock oil like is definitely prone to failure when bending it around. Especially if you've already done it a few times. I'd suggest just ditching the alternator while you get the drain line all hooked up and situated anyways. You won't believe how big the cpe mani is back there. Very little room to shove your hand down in there with the alternator in. 3 bolts and it's out. while you have it out, boom new oil feed line. Battery relocation is stupid easy. Takes about an hour. Ditch that 3" and go bigger. You won't regret it. A 3.5" like my old one is cool

Hmmm so are you saying like this: Kozmic Motorsports Oil Feed Line Kit Garrett GT Style Turbos Mazdaspeed 3 Mazdaspeed 6
Or just go complete custom? Definitely don't want to do that later if this is going to be an issue, but I'd still rather not do it if I can. Edge told me to go with the ATP kit so I did and now I'm having to alter both oil lines?! haha damn it.

Yeah I will eventually. After this turbo and getting all the parts together, I need to chill out on spending for a bit. Sooner or later I'm going to need a motor too lol.

[avesfan101]

Originally Posted by fivefingerdeathpunch Hmmm so are you saying like this: Kozmic Motorsports Oil Feed Line Kit Garrett GT Style Turbos Mazdaspeed 3 Mazdaspeed 6 Or just go complete custom? Definitely don't want to do that later if this is going to be an issue, but I'd still rather not do it if I can. Edge told me to go with the ATP kit so I did and now I'm having to alter both oil lines?! haha damn it. Yeah I will eventually. After this turbo and getting all the parts together, I need to chill out on spending for a bit. Sooner or later I'm going to need a motor too lol.

Don't buy the Kozmic one. It's a piece of shit. Like 5k on mine and it leaked. my custom line was cheaper than that even.

Call edge and tell them to refund you or something. That ATP kit is not made for the ms6 specifically because the drain line doesn't work with the tcase. It should be listed as an ms3 product only.

[NCspecV81]

The HTA turbos are sick! They make a lot of power and sound good while doing it (ricer in me likes it).

[VegasChef]

Building the line is easy. You found my thread so thats a start. I will say that it will take a bit of massaging to get the oil drain line on. Make sure you have at least a foot of the high temp pushlok hose so that you can cut and measure and cut again.

Take your time.....and walk away if need be. I also suggest mounting it to the turbo first then to the block. Best way I found to do it.

Good luck with your build. HMU if you have any other questions.

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

Originally Posted by avesfan101 Don't buy the Kozmic one. It's a piece of shit. Like 5k on mine and it leaked. my custom line was cheaper than that even. Call edge and tell them to refund you or something. That ATP kit is not made for the ms6 specifically because the drain line doesn't work with the tcase. It should be listed as an ms3 product only.

Well then. Definitely staying away from that!

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 THAT! They know it too, have been told several times!

Yeah I didn't realize that until after. I don't like being that guy who complains because I guess I see it as I should've done my research instead of trusting them? I'm not sure. I'm not too happy about it, but I don't like complaining. They are a good vendor for us and I don't want to get on their bad side either haha.

Originally Posted by VegasChef Building the line is easy. You found my thread so thats a start. I will say that it will take a bit of massaging to get the oil drain line on. Make sure you have at least a foot of the high temp pushlok hose so that you can cut and measure and cut again. Take your time.....and walk away if need be. I also suggest mounting it to the turbo first then to the block. Best way I found to do it. Good luck with your build. HMU if you have any other questions.

Are you referring to oil drain or feed?

Well since the ATP kit came with the SS braided hose for the oil drain like for the speed3, I'm hoping that will work. I'll just have to have it cut down to the right size when everything is in place.

[VegasChef]

The drain line. I bought my feed line from kozmic.

Get a stock drain line. Weld on the an fitting and get some push lock fittings from there.

[dale_gribble]

Excited this is happening to speed6!

I suggest keeping a contingency plan for a motor build in your back pocket just in case. You are definitely in that window of 'opportunity'.

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

Originally Posted by VegasChef The drain line. I bought my feed line from kozmic. Get a stock drain line. Weld on the an fitting and get some push lock fittings from there.

Got the first part of that going. Info on push lock fittings? If I go that route plus a new oil feed... I think I will talk to edge. That ATP line kit is expensive..

Originally Posted by dale_gribble Excited this is happening to speed6! I suggest keeping a contingency plan for a motor build in your back pocket just in case. You are definitely in that window of 'opportunity'.

Man trust me I can't wait to get this on. My BNR is great, but this thing is going to sound amazing and flow so much better. I'll also get to have whatever benefits come with a ball bearing turbo.

Yeah, I'm hoping to keep things safe for now, but I'm already planning on what to do when it goes

[VegasChef]

You need a 90 & 45an push lock an fittings. Also pick up a foot of the high temp silicone hose from atp. You can get the push lock fittings from them as well.

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 THAT! They know it too, have been told several times!

Have you seen this on ATP's site? There are two different bundles... one for ms6 and one for ms3. Not sure what's the difference besides price
Special Bundle Mazda Speed 6 - oil and coolant fittings used in kit : atpturbo.com
Special Bundle Mazda Speed 3 - oil and coolant fittings used in kit : atpturbo.com

Edge charged and gave me the one for the speed3.... so I'm going to reach out to them about that. I paid double for something that won't work as it's supposed to.

Originally Posted by VegasChef You need a 90 & 45an push lock an fittings. Also pick up a foot of the high temp silicone hose from atp. You can get the push lock fittings from them as well.

So you are essentially saying these?
PUSHLOCK Black anodized -10 AN 45 DEGREE hose end : atpturbo.com
PUSHLOCK Black anodized -10 AN 90 DEGREE hose end : atpturbo.com
Hi Temp Rubber/Silicone Oil Drain Hose - 5/8" (-10 AN equivalent ID) : atpturbo.com

I'm going to wait and see what Edge says. Like I said, if what I have now will work, I'm going to stick with that.

Still waiting to get my manifold and turbine housing back from the ceramic coating.

[VegasChef]

Yes sir that is what you want. Also get some small hose clamps to secure the push lock line. It may not be totally necisarry but it will help with keeping it togeather. Angles won't seem right but if you finger it enough it will go on. Mine is holding fine. Also make sure that you use a bench vice to hold the an fittings and get them nice and tight. If you try and do it on the car there isn't a lot of room for leverage.

Also when your putting your line togeather your gonna need to cut off the tips of the an fittings otherwise they will be to long and not allow room for the hose to fit properly..
uploadfromtaptalk1425586173828.jpeg

[avesfan101]

Originally Posted by VegasChef Yes sir that is what you want. Also get some small hose clamps to secure the push lock line. It may not be totally necisarry but it will help with keeping it togeather. Angles won't seem right but if you finger it enough it will go on. Mine is holding fine. Also make sure that you use a bench vice to hold the an fittings and get them nice and tight. If you try and do it on the car there isn't a lot of room for leverage. Also when your putting your line togeather your gonna need to cut off the tips of the an fittings otherwise they will be to long and not allow room for the hose to fit properly.. Attachment 192802

Cutting the fitting totally defeats the purpose of the push lock. I'd be weary of cutting the line also bc that edge will probably be pretty sharp and any leverage on that hose and it's going to tear over time. I like the push lock fittings but the AN fittings are a tad more secure IMO.
I wish someone made some smaller profile AN fittings but still remained -10.

Originally Posted by jdmage_mx5 I drive a MS3 so my view is different but I just cut out the accordion section of the oem drain, slide a 5/8 stainless steel oil line (about 5-6" long) over the ends of the oem line, two hose clamps on each side for security and called it a day.

I originally has this on my gt28 set up. Sucker always leaked.

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

Okay so ATP's speed6 specific kit gives you stepdown studs and a gasket to reuse the stock oil drain/return line instead of giving a whole oil return solution. That's a whopping 100 dollar difference though...

[6erforlife]

Check out @Code Monkey;'s thread regarding the oil return line.
Code Monkey goes EWG

I spent more then a month trying to get this resolved and it wasn't until I talked to George at ATP that I was able to fix the problem. Their stainless steel lines can only go as short as 10" which is way longer then what you need and will only kink if you try it. If you cut the line, you'll see that it's just a plastic tube with steel mesh over it. Pretty cheap to be honest. Go push lock with high temp line. It's really the only way to avoid the tcase. It wasn't easy testing and fitting but eventually it worked out and now the solution has been replicated with @VegasChef;'s build and inspiration from @avesfan101;. I've been running almost a year without an issue (knock on wood)

[Code Monkey]

Originally Posted by 6erforlife Check out @Code Monkey;'s thread regarding the oil return line.

Every time I think about it:

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

Originally Posted by 6erforlife Check out @Code Monkey;'s thread regarding the oil return line. Code Monkey goes EWG I spent more then a month trying to get this resolved and it wasn't until I talked to George at ATP that I was able to fix the problem. Their stainless steel lines can only go as short as 10" which is way longer then what you need and will only kink if you try it. If you cut the line, you'll see that it's just a plastic tube with steel mesh over it. Pretty cheap to be honest. Go push lock with high temp line. It's really the only way to avoid the tcase. It wasn't easy testing and fitting but eventually it worked out and now the solution has been replicated with @VegasChef;'s build and inspiration from @avesfan101;. I've been running almost a year without an issue (knock on wood)

Okay okay I'm convinced. I hadn't heard that stuff about ATPs line so I def don't want to run it now.

I do like your setup the best. Would a 45 off the turbo be too much of an angle down to put a hose connecting to the block side? I feel like if that were possible, it'd be perfect. If not, I'm calling atp tomorrow to get those pieces ordered.

Where were you guys before I ordered the ATP kit through edge?? haha

[6erforlife]

Originally Posted by fivefingerdeathpunch Would a 45 off the turbo be too much of an angle down to put a hose connecting to the block side? I feel like if that were possible, it'd be perfect. If not, I'm calling atp tomorrow to get those pieces ordered. Where were you guys before I ordered the ATP kit through edge?? haha

The way the turbo is clocked on mine, a 90* pointed straight to or as close to the 45* that was attached to the block. Just remember to cut the tips off both otherwise you won't have enough line in the middle to give you that little bit of flex you're going to need when you put everything together. Also it didn't line up for me until I took out the mani, hooked up all the lines then reinstalled the mani. I was sitting there for hours wondering why the an fittings weren't screwing into each other before I realized it lol

The guys at Edge are usually pretty good but mistakes happen I guess. They probably didn't realize you were working on an ms6. I know when I ordered my kit, they threw the stainless line in even tho I specified ms6 in the details.

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

Originally Posted by 6erforlife The guys at Edge are usually pretty good but mistakes happen I guess. They probably didn't realize you were working on an ms6. I know when I ordered my kit, they threw the stainless line in even tho I specified ms6 in the details.

I wish that were the case. I told him a few times and he asked for clarification that it was on a speed6 so really no reason to think it wasn't.

Anyway just talked to ATP and ordered the 45*, 90*, and hose as well as a couple hose clamps just in case.

Also, my manifold and turbine housing are done being coated so I'll have to go pick them up Monday or so. Can't wait to see the results

[VegasChef]

Oil drain line sucks no lie. It was one of the things that I was dreading the most. Luckily mine has worked out well so far (fingers crossed)

[jdmage_mx5]

I drive a MS3 so my view is different but I just cut out the accordion section of the oem drain, slide a 5/8 stainless steel oil line (about 5-6" long) over the ends of the oem line, two hose clamps on each side for security and called it a day.

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

I just called and spoke to Edge. They were awesome as usual and after talking with them, they are going to refund me the difference between the kits. The guy who messed up my order is no longer with them now if anyone was curious.

I had no hesitation saying this even after the mistake, but Edge is awesome. Glad they are here for our community!

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

Minor update!

Got my ceramic coating done!! I'm impressed so hopefully you guys are too. It was done by a local company for 175. It's Techline Turbo X Black 2000F.






Also got my oil return pipe welded and got the pieces in for it. Angle doesn't look right sitting here, but I guess it will when I get it on. Obviously i have excess silicone hose.

[6erforlife]

Originally Posted by fivefingerdeathpunch Minor update! Also got my oil return pipe welded and got the pieces in for it. Angle doesn't look right sitting here, but I guess it will when I get it on. Obviously i have excess silicone hose.

You almost have it. That stock pipe that you welded is way to long. You're not gonna be able to get the desired angle you need and those 45* 90* aren't gonna amount to squat. I cut it right above the lettering. Maybe 1/4". Unfortunately my laptop crashed a few months ago so I can't post any example pics

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

Originally Posted by 6erforlife You almost have it. That stock pipe that you welded is way to long. You're not gonna be able to get the desired angle you need and those 45* 90* aren't gonna amount to squat. I cut it right above the lettering. Maybe 1/4". Unfortunately my laptop crashed a few months ago so I can't post any example pics

Haha F me.... so right above where it has that "2"? I'll get that changed...

I'm still trying to decide how I should go about the swap. I can do the swap myself(with friends) and take off parts like my DP and take it to a fabricator to get it adjusted to fit, but that requires me to tell him the right thing and hope that's good enough. Otherwise I take the whole setup to my fabricator and tell him to do it all and it costs an arm and a leg with the benefit of it being for sure done and likely in one day.

[maisonvi]

Part of me wishes I went tial hotside and CPE manifold vs my oem flange set up. Looks awesome man.

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

Okay so I was helping a local speed3 install his atp gtx2867r and we had a hell of a time with the stock oil feed line. So much so that I'm convinced I should probably have a custom oil feed line ready to go. That said @avesfan101; what should I go with for the oil feed line? I think you said you had a custom one that works better than the Kozmic one?

[865ms3]

Originally Posted by fivefingerdeathpunch Okay so I was helping a local speed3 install his atp gtx2867r and we had a hell of a time with the stock oil feed line. So much so that I'm convinced I should probably have a custom oil feed line ready to go. That said @avesfan101; what should I go with for the oil feed line? I think you said you had a custom one that works better than the Kozmic one?

What we've learned in tn/ky nator with the atp kit...

Have someone hold the turbo up...connect oil feed line...drop turbo down...slide manifold on and then bolt it all up. More room to work with.

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

I'm just going to say that this is/was such a hassle.

I arranged to take my parts to a shop and have them do the work since there was some fabricating to be done to the downpipe and oil return etc.
It took longer than expected with many issues along the road. DP had to be readjusted a couple times, the oil return did as well. Took a while for them to get it all up together and when I DID get it.. i took it home and almost there I noticed my coolant temps soaring to 220+. I got it home and took a look. Coolant was leaking.... Fuck me
Added coolant and limped my way 25 miles or so going slow and turning the car off a few times trying to prevent any damage... temps were 220+... hitting 241 once or twice when it turned it off to cool it down. Hopefully no damage was done there but I guess we will see..
Anyway the coolant line that goes underneath got punctured somehow by the oil line that was routed next to it so the shop had to take everything apart and replace that hose with a better/new one. They did that and I went to get it. Of course I start driving it and my driveshaft is hitting my downpipe. It happened when I first got this POS downpipe and it apparently happened again with this change. Was still driving around the shop so I took it to them and they adjusted things. During that drive I also gave it a little boost and things sounded weird. They had the ebcs/ewg routing done a bit odd so I changed it. Plus one of the hoses popped off any I overboosted quite a bit for a split second. Hopefully no damage there either...

Anyway got the car and was able to drive it 30 miles home. No issues right now but we will see how things go!

BTW the car sounds totally different with this manifold.. equal length removed the burble of the stock system. Also I don't seem to have as loud of a compressor howl as nishan does in his videos. I really haven't dove into it much as I'm still nervous about it all. Gave it some throttle and only got to 12psi today. Map is only spring pressure to start with so 18psi for me. I need a maf cal though as my trims are wrong. I'll drive on it to get some miles then do that. Then start with some actual tuning.... Unless Nishan's work load lightens up and I can get him to do it, but he is busy now.

I'll update later once I start tuning and stuff, but for now I just want to enjoy having a car again haha

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

Alright update time!

Trims were significantly off in the low range. 17, 12 then down to like 6 and 4 or something. Even threw a too lean at idle and a crankshaft sensor code. Did my maf cal and it's much much better now. +/- 6 or so now. And 0'd out up to .9V since someone suggests that.

I don't know why I said 18psi spring above.. I checked the springs I have left over and the valve must have black red and yellow which is 16psi.

Despite that... I'm overboosting. I was hitting 20psi when I went to go do a 4th gear log which actually triggered one of my cuts. So i went and upped my limits.

Went back out today and got a couple 4th gear logs done. Still no wgdc because I wanted to see where my bottom line is with 0 wgdc. It's more or less the lowest I can produce.

So logs and VD attached, but the highlights are.... 20psi by ~3750, with 0 wgdc on my supposed 16psi spring I'm hitting/holding 20-21psi, I'm running super conservative timing to make up for that... only 4* at 6200rpm, despite that.. still peaked at 340g/s. Couple blips of KR, but nothing at all to blink at so that's reassuring to me. Also should mention that AFRs may be off a bit since I am still spraying my D07 with 100% meth.

Car is slow as hell for now, but it's loud and I'm still just enjoying that I have a usable DD again. Power is a work in progress. I am going to see what 91 + my meth gets me then go to e85 if I have to. Remember that I'm stock block so I'm kinda hoping that the block stops me pushing things before octane does. It'd be nice to only be running 91 with my meth instead of needing e85 too.

I'll probably adjust timing a bit and go from there. I don't know how much boost I should run though so we'll see

[09TrueRedGTX]

I suggest bringing your timing up at least 2* on your next map. You can cook a valve running such low timing. Especially if your spraying meth, I don't think another couple degrees will cause any kr issues in the least. It should also give you a nice bump in power too.

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

Originally Posted by 09TrueRedGTX I suggest bringing your timing up at least 2* on your next map. You can cook a valve running such low timing. Especially if your spraying meth, I don't think another couple degrees will cause any kr issues in the least. It should also give you a nice bump in power too.

Damn I was worried about that... hopefully no damage done... this is why I wanted Nishan to tune me


Yeah I think I'm going to get an etuner. K04/BNR tuning wasn't too bad, but I'm clearly not prepared for tuning this turbo

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

Update time. Got ahold of Nishan and now he is tuning me. Things were slow at first like usual since I had to get my MAF Cal miles in. We did three revisions on pump alone to get the maf perfect and now we are on the third meth map. Here is a VD of what I've done thus far and the corresponding logs are attached




I'm a standstill right now though. My cpe mani is apparently touching my coupler off the turbo and it blew a crack in it somehow. I have a new coupler on the way. I will probably try to create a heatshield or just put some protective covering over the silicone coupler at that area to protect it. I actually have some heat wrap that I think could work too. Either way, once I fix that I'll get the new log sent over to Nishan.

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

Minor update for y'all

Like I said I had a boost issue when doing my latest map's log. Boosted to 20psi for a few seconds then dropped to like 10. Obviously knew something was wrong, but my car was running fine when not in boost and my trims weren't that off... still +/-8. Looked around and found the problem as shown here


That's probably an issue. lulz

Anyway I got a replacement one and put it in, and put the exhaust wrap that came with my manifold on it to protect it. This is temporary in my mind, because the real problem is that the coupler is being bent a bit which is causing it to balloon in a spot and touching/getting close to the manifold. The turbo isn't clocked well enough IMO. Nishan apparently has magic powers and has clocked a turbo while it was still installed. He told me how so I'll probably try that with a friend and see how that goes. For now though, it's holding boost just fine. Attaching a log and here's a VD with that latest log in. I have it mapped with my other 'power' tune revision logs(basically excluding all revisions for the maf cal)