Need some direction for a few problems

[Jkelley]

Hey guys, I got a 08 ms3 and recently went BT after blowing my stock engine cylinder #3 with the following supporting mods: remanufactured 0mile OEM long block, new OEM clutch, ATP GTX3071r 14psi ported IWG turbo, JBR Tru 3.5" Widepath Intake, UR V2 3" catless DP & TP, Tr8+JBR FMIC, Turbosmart 50/50 BOV, CP-e HPFP, Denso ITV22 Spark Plugs, Bosch 3bar MAP, Cobb 3-port EBCS, PERM PCV Plate, Damond OCC (1sealed, 1 VTA), Kozmic 1*/ Damond 2*EGR Delete, CP-e RMM 75A, JBR side MM 80A, Cobb AP V2, spin-on oil conversion, H&R springs, JBR IM/TB TIG, CorkSport injector seals. This car has been tuned by cobbtuning and disappointedly (IMO) made only 312whp/349wtq @ 19psi on 91oct in 80 degree ambient temp in cali. The build was completed by my local performance mechanic. Now that everything has been complete, I have had the opportunity to drive my car a little bit more, but I have noticed some issues that concern me.

#1 problem: insane amount of heat in engine bay
I'm talking fry your eggs heat; I live in las vegas and it was 100F. If I idle at a stop sign/light, my BATs was 178, coolant temp 228, intake temp 203. I will not overheat while the vehicle is operating. Upon turning the vehicle off even if I let the car run for a couple mins and idle, the temp gauge will rise to H, coolant temp 250-260's, if I turn the engine back on it will instantly drop down a lil under dead center on temp gauge and coolant temps will be 200-220's.
We have tried fixing this by making sure the coolant system was bled and flushed multiple times, took it to mazda dealership & they stated possibly because the FMIC is blocking radiator air pathway. Therefore we placed two radiator fans between radiator and block, and one huge 14" fan between fmic and radiator. Will show pics if needed.


#2 problem: intermittent p0335 crank position sensor malfunction code
This code has came on about 4 times within the last month. Clear it, it goes away then randomly pops up when I start the car those 4 times. I noticed the first instance of this code was when I blew off my hot pipe to the intercooler over the valve cover during high boost situation. FIXED

#3 problem: car running extremely rich
i know this has a lot to do with my tune and being 50/50 with bov. I did not think I would deal with constant afterfire and 16-18mpg when driving normal. I will get logs posted.

#4 problem: small oil leak from perm pcv plate
nothing crazy but I noticed the PERM PCV plate instructions wanted to reuse the oem gasket. Anybody else using the PERM plate have leaking problems? FIXED

So I'm just looking for a little direction. Also, if you don't have answers to my few problems here, may I ask you BT guys that live in similar climate as myself what your BATs, coolant temps, and intake temps? Also, does anyone else get that strange overheating problem when you turn your car off? Is this due to the EGR delete? Is the A/C crapping due to how hot I'm running? Am I even running hot or is this normal with all BT's on our platform? Anything helps

[Jkelley]

Help a nigga out! This heat is driving me crazy

[shamie]

#1 - I'm chasing cooling issues also but not the shut down one you have.

#2 - Check this thread (post 11) P0335 Crank Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction. Make sure your mechanical timing is

#3 - Running rich usually points to a boost leak or a VTA BPV. Since you've already blown one of your couplers off I would recheck all connections. The crank sensor could contribute also.

#4 - Buy a new gasket - $15 problem solved.

[anavrinIV]

1 - Thermostat and temp sensor all good? Does it physically feel hotter under there than before? 100* temps are no joke, we hit 105 here yesterday and will be doing the same today unfortunately.

2 - I get this too. Car never runs any differently, it pops up every few months for me. After a few restarts last time it went away on its own. Timing is not a problem. Also happened after I went BT. I'm assuming your MAF cal is correct but that's one of the potential problems I believe, may need to zero out another cell or 2.

3 - I run full VTA with my HKS and no problems. Hits stoich at idle and cruise, AFRs are pretty well on for pulls. If your valve cracks open at PT (as a lot of BPVs do) this will cause problems as mentioned.

4 - fix the leak.

[Jkelley]

Originally Posted by shamie #1 - I'm chasing cooling issues also but not the shut down one you have. #2 - Check this thread (post 11) P0335 Crank Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction. Make sure your mechanical timing is #3 - Running rich usually points to a boost leak or a VTA BPV. Since you've already blown one of your couplers off I would recheck all connections. The crank sensor could contribute also. #4 - Buy a new gasket - $15 problem solved.

1. yes this is puzzling. I've heard from other platforms it could be normal or could not be. But I haven't heard any other speed complaining about this issue

2. yes, i found that thread but didn't get much useful info out of there as far as a fix. lots of complaining and some troubleshooting but no solution. but i will look at post 11

3. yes, we rechecked all connections. Going to do a boost leak and intake leak check for giggles though.

4. will be done on next oil change, just wondered why they even recommend reusing a gasket anyways??

Originally Posted by anavrinIV 1 - Thermostat and temp sensor all good? Does it physically feel hotter under there than before? 100* temps are no joke, we hit 105 here yesterday and will be doing the same today unfortunately. 2 - I get this too. Car never runs any differently, it pops up every few months for me. After a few restarts last time it went away on its own. Timing is not a problem. Also happened after I went BT. I'm assuming your MAF cal is correct but that's one of the potential problems I believe, may need to zero out another cell or 2. 3 - I run full VTA with my HKS and no problems. Hits stoich at idle and cruise, AFRs are pretty well on for pulls. If your valve cracks open at PT (as a lot of BPVs do) this will cause problems as mentioned. 4 - fix the leak.

1. So our gameplan now is going to be new thermostat (perhaps we get a mazda oem one instead of autozone this time), new radiator, exact 50/50 mix with water wetter, remove fan in between fmic and radiator, place 2 better 12" fans behind radiator in between block. yes it is for sure physically hotter since i went BT - insane amounts of heat. wish I had a thermal radiation sensor to check how hot it is

2. we ziptied the sensor since it was dangling around and cleaned it. next step will be getting a new sensor. we will see. Possibly the heat is messing this sensor up to?

3. i followed up with my tuner. he said it's because of the heat most likely, car is sending more fuel to try and compensate for the heat.

4. will do


The heat is so crazy that it literally warped my front bumper tabs that hold it to the side. Now I gotta figure out how to fix this crap cuz my stuff pops out Thanks guys for the help

[anavrinIV]

Originally Posted by Jkelley 2. we ziptied the sensor since it was dangling around and cleaned it. next step will be getting a new sensor. we will see. Possibly the heat is messing this sensor up to?

This scares me the most. No way would I trust zip ties when it comes to my engine's mechanical timing, especially this engine

[Jkelley]

Originally Posted by anavrinIV This scares me the most. No way would I trust zip ties when it comes to my engine's mechanical timing, especially this engine

True that. We ordered the tool and gonna get this thing right.


update on the cooling: got a new radiator, new coolant, water wetter, new condenser, new thermostat - NO LUCK...

Going to try drilling holes through thermostat if possible

[meicalnissyen]

there is a coolant flow pathway diagram in here

Dunno if you have the option, but I deleted the flow thru the heater core

I have the extra fan blowing thru both cores from the outside, and I've been LAIC for years, but moved the heat exchanger to the underside.

Have you tried the bandaids of pulling the weatherstrip, and proping the cowlside of the hood?

I've thought about exploring the way the airflows bewteen the radiator and the intake/block but its so tight

also, there is a template to make a little sheet metal cover going from the top of grill and coresupport, keeps air from spilling over, and thru the bay

[Jkelley]

Originally Posted by meicalnissyen there is a coolant flow pathway diagram in here Dunno if you have the option, but I deleted the flow thru the heater core I have the extra fan blowing thru both cores from the outside, and I've been LAIC for years, but moved the heat exchanger to the underside. Have you tried the bandaids of pulling the weatherstrip, and proping the cowlside of the hood? I've thought about exploring the way the airflows bewteen the radiator and the intake/block but its so tight also, there is a template to make a little sheet metal cover going from the top of grill and coresupport, keeps air from spilling over, and thru the bay

I am definitely coming back to this useful information! Can't believe I didn't give this more than a couple minute scan.

Las Vegas = 110-120F summers.. you bastards don't have to worry about this because the market in LV is so small for ms3's. Maybe the AZ ms3's can lend more direction. Where's the how to?

My plan: increase distance in between FMIC and radiator; somehow focus ambient air to be directed towards radiator with shrouds or ducting; deleting front bumper grill (even though I don't think this will change much); removing underhood air ducting for TMIC (don't think this will do much neither?); lastly a coolant reroute;

Any direction for these mods? anyone try any of the above?

[Jkelley]

Next plan is water pump & ect sensor. Come on guys.. Suggestions plz

[Jkelley]

Didn't drill holes in thermostat.. Has to be some gunning else. Noticed coolant will boil at 50/50 mix.. So I thought either leak or cap leak not holding pressure.. Did a pressure test and it held at 21 psi no problem. Used the pressure test adapter to use instead of cap to rule out radiator cap.. Still boiled.. Gonna try 100% water with mocool, warranty out autozone water pump, and change ECT sensor

[2eatV8everyday]

You could have a partially blown head gasket. I would run a compression test just for the hell of it since it is very easy to do (hopefully a partial HG failure would register a difference in compression test results for the affected cylinders).

[Jkelley]

Originally Posted by 2eatV8everyday You could have a partially blown head gasket. I would run a compression test just for the hell of it since it is very easy to do (hopefully a partial HG failure would register a difference in compression test results for the affected cylinders).

Thanks, we did compression test and full cylinder leak test.. Passed. New water pump, water & mocool, removal of any air in cooling system.. No luck.. I'm sitting in 115 degree weather. I've come to conclusion that it is normal for Vegas boosted cars that have FMICs that block the air flow of radiator. I plan to just go back to TMIC.

[fivefingerdeathpunch]

For crank sensor code, I think you zero out the 0-.9V of the maf cal. I think it's also suggested to raise your idle so that your idle maf voltage is 1v.

[Jkelley]

Originally Posted by fivefingerdeathpunch For crank sensor code, I think you zero out the 0-.9V of the maf cal. I think it's also suggested to raise your idle so that your idle maf voltage is 1v.

#2 and #4 was fixed... We used timing tool and all is well. The cooling problems is my number one issue.

[Mochi]

just saw this today, your heat problems might be from the system still having air bubbles in it, I drive my baby dick turbo in the 110 temps. max coolant temp is 219

[Jkelley]

Originally Posted by Mochi just saw this today, your heat problems might be from the system still having air bubbles in it, I drive my baby dick turbo in the 110 temps. max coolant temp is 219

This system was drained, flushed, refilled about 6-8 times by myself, a performance shop, and a local dealership per shop manual instructions and normal instructions. Additionally, we had another shop use a vacuum device to literally suck all the air out the cooling system to the point it literally collapses your cooling hose. Therefore, that has been ruled out. But thank you. If you don't mind me asking, are you running a FMIC or TMIC?

[mr_mazda329]

I know Mochi and most of us are running FMICs here in Vegas. Myself, I hit 228 on the highway just cruising a couple of weeks ago. Running the AC in full heat to defrost will drop coolant temps to a more desirable 208 range, but you'll bake your ass off. I did have a lot of air in my system tho. I burped it again and now my high only hits 219 on most trips with some boost.

I'm running TR8L FMIC, BNRS3. Coolant system is 80% distilled 20% Asian Zerex coolant with water wetter. You might want to look into the fan switch controller from speed performance. I know a few of us are looking to jump on it.

SPEED PERF6RMANC3 Auxiliary Fan Controller For Mazda MZR-DISI - SPEED PERF6RMANC3

[mr_mazda329]

Also, we need to focus on getting your intake temps down. Do you have any heat shields over your manifold? Your IATs are almost 70° higher than mine. ALSO, have you pulled the little intake port cover in the upper part of the radiator cowl? Next, is your coolant hose resting on your cold pipe?

[Jkelley]

Originally Posted by mr_mazda329 Also, we need to focus on getting your intake temps down. Do you have any heat shields over your manifold? Your IATs are almost 70° higher than mine. ALSO, have you pulled the little intake port cover in the upper part of the radiator cowl? Next, is your coolant hose resting on your cold pipe?

checking this bro.

Also, my coolant does boil at these temps!

[Jkelley]

I'm proud to say! All problems fixed. When mechanic removed EGR, he clamped the wrong hose - the water outlet from the reservoir. Thanks for the help guys. And special thanks to @meicalnissyen for showing the cooling diagram which caused us to relook over everything.