New Build

[Sickspeed3]

I'm currently deployed right now and I have a little bit of time left and I've been doing some research on parts for my build. I currently have these parts for my build:

Spare Block machined .20 over
Cp pistons 8:5:1—
Pauter Rods
Main and Rod bearings—

Here's a list of things that I'm going to order( if you have any suggestions please let me know):

Arp head studs
Arp main studs
DCR VVT Actuator
Cosmetic head gasket—
New oil pump seals—
Rear main seal—
ACT 6 puck clutch flywheel still undecided—

I'm currently on a gt3076 22psi—
fully bolted—
AP—
Tuned—

[EdgeAutosport.com]

You will also need all the oem washers and bolts for the timing components and the flywheel bolts. There might be a few other things but they are not coming up right now.

[Chimmike]

why drop compression? no need. go 9.5:1.

[3Gee Tee]

Safer to run mo' bewst lol.

But fuck safety; because racecar.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sickspeed3]

Lower compression idk I might be getting a gt35r so my thought was to be more safe.

Originally Posted by eric@edgeautosport You will also need all the oem washers and bolts for the timing components and the flywheel bolts. There might be a few other things but they are not coming up right now.

I also have thrust washer and flywheel bolts

They way I was thinking remove my motor and have both my engine and short block
on stands. Then just start swapping everything onto my short block.

[Realgib3]

1) Don't lower compression
2) Don't run standard ARP Head Studs (run ptp's studs or L19 studs straight from ARP)
3) Don't run a Cometic HG (run stock HG)
4) Streetlite FW FTW
5) Coat the bearings and anything else you can afford to do
6) Run a bigger turbo

[Sickspeed3]

Originally Posted by Realgib3 1) Don't lower compression 2) Don't run standard ARP Head Studs (run ptp's studs or L19 studs straight from ARP) 3) Don't run a Cometic HG (run stock HG) 4) Streetlite FW FTW 5) Coat the bearings and anything else you can afford to do 6) Run a bigger turbo

Coat the bearings? This is new to me what am I coating them with? The goal is to still have a reliable DD. With the stock head stock IM but built bottom end what is potential of my setup with 5 th port no meth

[Sickspeed3]

How much can bottom end handle without sleeves?

[chuckms6]

Originally Posted by Sickspeed3 How much can bottom end handle without sleeves?

I think you need to do some research before committing to a motor build. No one has reached the structural limits of anything but the rods on this motor. Direct injection also allows for much more compression compared to port injection.

Tapatalking

[Sickspeed3]

Originally Posted by chuckms6 I think you need to do some research before committing to a motor build. No one has reached the structural limits of anything but the rods on this motor. Direct injection also allows for much more compression compared to port injection. Tapatalking

I am doing my research but that was just a curious question. Ive built motors before just never messed with this platform. But thanks for answering my question, no one knows yet.

[Realgib3]

Yeah the most power we've seen thus far without sleeves is into the low 700's, but it may take considerably more, no one really knows.

Also, the coating is basically an anti-friction coating. @Alpha has looked a lot into different company's coatings from what I remember.

[helmetface]

Streetlite FW

[phate]

The L19 head studs are RIDICULOUSLY expensive. I grabbed some Cosworth head studs from MAPerformance for a really good price, and they had them in stock.

Also, I don't like the idea of dropping compression, but if you have the pistons already...

I would also just get a whole new oil pump. No sense in risking your new toy for a $150 part.

[Sickspeed3]

I really appreciate it guys, helping me a lot in the planning of all this. Anything else please continue to let me know. Who sells the oil pump 150? The only place I've seen was street unit.

[Sickspeed3]

Alright so here's my updated list from help from you guys and my own research:

Stock HG
DCR VVT Actuator
ARP Head and Main studs
PTP windage tray
Cosworth BSD
OEM Crank Pulley Bolt
Oil Pump
Timing Chain(if needed)
Oil pump strainer Tube
Oil Pump O ring gasket
Rear Main Seal
Friction washers x3( who sales them)

I'm just trying to get a definent list together to make this built organize and as painless as possible. But I have a question, I know there is a Camshaft alignment tool and a TDC tool. As I was looking through the Manuel theres this one special tool for the (Oil Pump Driven Sprocket) is this tool really needed, has anyone has experience with
Removing sprocket without using this special tool. Thanks again.

[phate]

You can use the spanner wrench from an angle grinder on the oil pump sprocket, or just use a small punch through one of the sprocket holes to hold it in place.

The friction washers are only available through Mazda. Let me know if you need part numbers, I just placed a HUGE order for the entire timing system and whatnot on the front of the engine.