Nitr0EngiEx Big Turbo Build

[Nitr0EngiE]

Here are 2 links to 125+ pictures of my build process. does not include the short block build because i did that about a year ago, had to rebuild head for a second time for bent valves because the mechanics i paid to do the head rebuild for me put 0 thread locker on my crank pulley bolt, bolt went lose and timing when fucko

there are way too many pics and too big resolution to upload it all here so i spared you all and made 2 albums of pictures

http://imageshack.us/g/807/dsc00304v.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/g/845/dsc00326z.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/g/195/0925091522.jpg/

I am not ready to do the formal story right now but here are the pics. only thing left is rear main seal and transmission and the tension er and belt.

one of the pics you will see me with a crazy look on my face as i baste my crank bolt in red good shit =p, my crank threads might get damaged in future but all i know is that bolt will not come lose this time, i put it to 160 ft lb as well ...

for the intake manifold to survive the oven for ceramic coating I had to remove the brake booster seals and weld in a 1/4 NPT bung and use a Barb to fit fuel injector hose on it to replace stock line after ceramic coating. also i had to weld a plug in the small hole the VCTS would go through and seal it because the plastic seals inside would not survive the oven either but i was not using the vcts anyways so this is ok for me and ill never be re installing it. i have completely removed the mechanisms entirely the only thing left is that block box with the solenoid on top of IM, im considering pulling that too and tapping threads the hole it sticks in and sealing with a bolt and rtv, but im afraid if i do that ill get a CEL for the solenoid not being connected, i dont know if the cobb ap vcts code remover covers that connection as well or not.

[bmylez]

Baller azz build, mang. Car must move out.

[bova]

fail at linking pics, here ya go, made them so people could just click

http://imageshack.us/g/807/dsc00304v.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/g/845/dsc00326z.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/g/195/0925091522.jpg/

[Nitr0EngiE]

yah i did not think about linking 1 click i fixed it

[11cruzito11]

You torqued your crank pulley bolt with an impact gun?

[bmylez]

Looks like a drill to me, dwag. I'm thinkin he torqued it down properly afterward.

[11cruzito11]

In his first post he put he torqued it to 165 ft lbs, this bolt is torque down to ~73 ft lbs then a 90 degree turn.

[Nitr0EngiE]

i started it with an impact and used a big ass torque wrench for the rest .... after i used impact i removed the timing tool and replaced it with a bolt and then torqued it, if i had put 160 with the sure timing lock there it woulda just bent .... and to be clear that impact is a weaker version of the full blown 1/2" drive air tools used by most mechanics. that was a 3/8th battery powered, which are still strong.... but not the same

the reason i used the impact first is because its ability to apply torque directly to the bolt and not stress all the timing tools to give it a good grip on locking first. i dont trust the bolt that holds crank to timing cover the small 8mm bolt. the same reason you can remove flywheel bolts without locking the crank.

im not losing another set of valves for timing coming lose again. i dont give a fuck

i dont think what i did was too un reasonable considering one guy was trying to recommend i take my head bolts to 90 now thats fucking stupid crazy. i went 70 on head bolts with super molly lube.

and i believe 73 ft lb then a 90 degree turn is way more then 73, i am sure its quit a bit more not saying its 160 ..... but im overall still satisfied with my decision. that one bolt holds everything together. i dont see any reason after the fact it will cause any issue resides trying to remove the bolt. there might be serious damage on removal, i will prolly heat it up with a torch to liquify thread locker when and if i need to. i hope i dont ever need to do so again. i guess my point is i did not strip threads or mess them up upon torquing and it allowed me to do so, so it should be fine functional wise, but im not an engineer

i have been through alot with this motor not staying in time consider me traumatized by it and this is my way of resolving it.

hey silverdemon with your fabrication exp. how much force would it take to bust a bolt that tick over 1" what would happen first bolt snap or threads strip

[essejkcamraw]

good to see you gettin' back in to the swing of things. lookin' forward to the numbers. good luck this time around

[Nitr0EngiE]

Thanks Man

I been off the streets soo long i heard people are talking shit about my car saying shit like i could not afford payments little do they know im paying payments and insurance and my whole lifes worth of money in building it.

[essejkcamraw]

Originally Posted by Nitr0EngiE Thanks Man I been off the streets soo long i heard people are talking shit about my car saying shit like i could not afford payments little do they know im paying payments and insurance and my whole lifes worth of money in building it.

you aren't doing shit right if you don't have people talking shit.

[Broxer]

Very nice build, subbed for updates

[Nitr0EngiE]

the problem i always have is i never stop to dyno the car i am always tuning to try and get it running better and i never settle and just go dyno i am always waiting to "Finish" one of the first things ill do when i get it done is get a baseline dyno on the wastegate PSI of 22 psi

[kmac]

U have a nice build going on there good luck , keep it up with the pics. I can't wait till we see it done. Who made the turbo manifold I like it.

[Nitr0EngiE]

Fabrication for Mazda 3

this local guy made it i have pics of the entire fab process but he requested i only show final product because he dont want people stealing his collector design and fab process.

i watched him do it, it was amazing how he did it

[I Love Brownies]

lol when you said your engine went boom. gl with this build

[Nitr0EngiE]

ordered dcr vvt, i have in hand new crank bolt and washers for crank and both bolts for cam sprockets and both friction washers. and a tube of black rtv

[Nitr0EngiE]

dcr vvt will be done monday

[Nitr0EngiE]

Factory Valve lash / clearences

Intake valve clearence Cold is .009 - .011 thou and exhaust is .011 - .013 Thou

[mason]

its been a year? hows it coming along

[Nitr0EngiE]

its been done i was just posting valve clearance data for others or later reference

However...

I was replacing head gasket just yesterday and when we started it today it appears the rtv is too thick on timing cover and the crank pulley is rubbing the timing cover, I gotta undo it all and and redo timing just to redo timing cover.

[mason]

sucks, what power are you making now