NJSPEED3 Built Motor T3 3076 build

[Alpha]

Man, that collector looks like s&*t though.

Best of luck with the new setup man!

[NJSPEED3]

Originally Posted by Alpha Man, that collector looks like s&*t though. Best of luck with the new setup man!

Thanks for the encouraging comment. We'll see how it flows i guess.

[8.5MS3]

in for win

[Alpha]

Originally Posted by NJSPEED3 Thanks for the encouraging comment. We'll see how it flows i guess.

Haha! Sorry, sometimes I just post quick. I just saw it and it hit me in the face.

Seriously though, it sounds like a bad ass setup man!

[NJSPEED3]

Well i purchased all the small shit no one thinks about. Oil line fittings $150, 3" vband clamp $16, 4" inlet $200. Turbo gets here saturday i think i should be able to install just about everything pending some of these parts come in. ill take some pictures later on today of the current status. I removed the alternator last night so i could pull of the oil feed line to the turbo. Im going to do my oil lines similar to SSinstaller except my return line will be completely new atp sells a fitting that is mazda specific for the block side of the return line. Stay tuned

[madvillain]

FUCK that banjo bolt to the oil feed behind the alternator. I hate it, I hate it so deeply.

[cld12pk2go]

Originally Posted by NJSPEED3 Well i purchased all the small shit no one thinks about. Oil line fittings $150, 3" vband clamp $16, 4" inlet $200. Turbo gets here saturday i think i should be able to install just about everything pending some of these parts come in. ill take some pictures later on today of the current status. I removed the alternator last night so i could pull of the oil feed line to the turbo. Im going to do my oil lines similar to SSinstaller except my return line will be completely new atp sells a fitting that is mazda specific for the block side of the return line. Stay tuned

Don't forget to post the exact oil line fittings you used.

[NJSPEED3]

Well Tyler did most of the work on this, you can find almost everything from atp or siliconeintakes.com

Here's the list of stuff i purchased last night from atp.

The only thing missing on this list is the -10an hose for the oil return feed. Im waiting on Tyler to mock his up in order to know how to angle it right and have the proper lenght of the hose.


GRT-GSK-008 Oil Return Gasket - GT Series 1 $3.00 $3.00

ATP-FLA-019 Oil Return Flange with integrated -10 Flare for GT15 Through GT35R$29.00

ATP-MS3-015 Oil Return/Drain Fitting for Mazdaspeed3 $29.00

ATP-OIL-021 -4 size Oil inlet fitting for GT28/30/35R with built-in restrictor $12.00

CUSTOM-OIL-FEED-LINECustom Oil Feed Line - Built to Order #4 (-4 AN) size Steel $10.00
END1: STRAIGHT $5.00
END2: STRAIGHT $5.00
LENGTH: 22 $11.00

i ordered from Speedwaymotors.com the fitting that you need welded to the stock oil feed line to transition to -4an ss braided hose.

6177104 STEEL WELD BUNG FITTING, AN4 MALE 1 $2.99

Tyler or i will post the missing info on the return hose when he mocks it up this weekend.

[BrianZX10R]

so excited for u gerry. cant wait.

[madvillain]

I'm going to make a detailed, picture full, big turbo shopping list thread this weekend after I finish taking some measurements.

[spnkr21]

so you need an oil restrictor with the gt turbos? Or is that built into the stock oil feed line?

[NJSPEED3]

Originally Posted by spnkr21 so you need an oil restrictor with the gt turbos? Or is that built into the stock oil feed line?

Yeah you need to order a restrictor for the gt bb turbos Tim. Journal bearing turbos dont use any restrictor from what im told

[madvillain]

yeah well the stock oil feed line, at the turbo end, has a restrictor in it from what I understand. With my journal bearing turbo I just use a straight 4an line, no restrictor needed.

[spnkr21]

Well I'm using the stock oil feed line right now for my gt turbo so I should be all set I think. Please tell me if I'm wrong so I can change it haha. I can't get my car to smoke so that's a good sign.

[NJSPEED3]

Alot of guys run the stock oil feed line from what i've been told Tim, seems to be working.
Im just wondering how much oil pressure the stock banjo bolt is spraying into the turbo cartridge. Maybe someone could chime in!

[MS3-a(sore)ASS-rex]

Oh man Gerry you're geting close!

Still kinda pissed I couldn't get you a better deal on that turbo, damn you mark! Jk <3

[MarkyMark]

Originally Posted by MS3-asaurus rex Oh man Gerry you're geting close! Still kinda pissed I couldn't get you a better deal on that turbo, damn you mark! Jk <3

LOL, dont worry about it. gerry put on a ski mask and robbed me on it

[spnkr21]

Well it is a different banjo bolt that ATP recommended. That probably is the restrictor you're right. Thanks man!

[NJSPEED3]

the stock banjo bolt is a restrictor just like the atp restrictor they just look different. Im just not sure if they have the same size restrictor. Maybe Bnoon could fill us in on this.

[NJSPEED3]

Im still kinda unsure about my fmic set up. I was really pissed the Brice fucked me on an unfinished kit. I have to make brackets to sustain the Godspeed core, which is not a big deal. Core size 24" x 9" x 3" end to end 30" with 3" inlets. Their piping is 2.5". Its exactly like Tyler's fmic expect for the bov position. The cobb core is identical except its 8" tall. I think i can fit the RR piping with the Cobb core. Here's some pictures of the fmic and of the car's current status. Let me know what you guys think?

[NJSPEED3]

Turbo came in this afternoon its a gt3076 t3 .82 a/r with a 4" inlet and 2" out. Thanks again to Mark From StreetUnit. This thing was purchased on Tuesday and here i am on Saturday with a new turbo SU FTW!.

I took tuns of pics of the turbo and some of the manifold and downpipe mocked up to give you guys an idea on what a t3 vband set up looks outside the car. Let me know what you think?

[NJSPEED3]

More pics of the turbo mocked up!

[NJSPEED3]

A few more here, i may have gone over board on the pictures haha anyway enjoy! Just know that when you go on Su site and look up a 3076 you're actually looking at my turbo haha.

[rodrigo]

how fast did u say that table goes??

[NJSPEED3]

Originally Posted by lenny127 how fast did u say that table goes??

500whp to all 4 legs Son recognize!

[madvillain]

Lookin good Gerry! WHat inlet are you going to run again?

[NJSPEED3]

Originally Posted by madvillain Lookin good Gerry! WHat inlet are you going to run again?

Thanks Bro,CPE inlet with their big maf intake

[MS3-a(sore)ASS-rex]

Man that looks great Gerry! Get that dump tube fabbed up so you can go fast already!

[madvillain]

The reason I ask is because your cartridge housing is much more compact than mine. The RR manifold already places the turbo a bit further towards the passanger side in comparison to the PG/stock manifold placement. Your smaller cartridge further pushes the compressor side even further towards the passenger side. You may need to extend the end of your inlet to reach the compressor inlet using these:

one of these: Turbo Piping

and one of these: Silicone Turbo Hoses

I could be totally wrong, its been a while since I've seen one of cp-e's inlets tubes, but I really don't know if it will work as is.

[NJSPEED3]

Originally Posted by madvillain The reason I ask is because your cartridge housing is much more compact than mine. The RR manifold already places the turbo a bit further towards the passanger side in comparison to the PG/stock manifold placement. Your smaller cartridge further pushes the compressor side even further towards the passenger side. You may need to extend the end of your inlet to reach the compressor inlet using these: one of these: Turbo Piping and one of these: Silicone Turbo Hoses I could be totally wrong, its been a while since I've seen one of cp-e's inlets tubes, but I really don't know if it will work as is.

Thanks man! I'll keep it in mind when i get to that point! Question should i hook up the oil lines to the turbo before dropping it in or can i install everything and then connect all the lines which is the better way. You have to think 4 steps ahead when doing an install like this to get it right the first time.

[madvillain]

Install everything then do the oil lines. Make sure you clock the turbo correctly. The oil feed should be facing directly upwards, the oil drain directly downwards.

make sure you drop the turbo down on the axle (I usually put a small box or a piece of foam to rest it on down there, THEN bolt the manifold on the head. I wasn't thinking once and torqued the manifold down all tight then was like FUCK, forgot the turbo. then do the DP last, thats the easy part.

[predapio]

Damn Gerry, you dont fuck around..nice going.

[NJSPEED3]

WOOT Thats great news Tyler that means i could slap this bitch on right now. one more question im still waiting on the steel fitting to weld on the oil feed line. So the alternator can't go on the car until thats done. Will i be able to install the alternator back on after the tb,mani and dp are on the car?

[spnkr21]

I can tighten down the oil feed line with the alternator on.

[madvillain]

You technically can install the oil feed with the alternator in, but its not worth it, not to me at least. Maybe if you have just the right wrench. I installed/uninstalled my oil feed line with the alternator on the first time but it is just so much easier to just take it off.

You can get the alternator on/off with the manifold and turbo mounted, just not the downpipe, well it'd make your life more difficult than necessary.

[NJSPEED3]

Im still missing the inlet and all my oil lines for the turbo, i decided to maock the turbo with the mani and see how this whole thing is going to come together.Everything went in smoothly. I just cant see how im going to be able to hook up some sort of inlet with the current location of the compressor. The car heater lines run basically in front of the compressor inlet and one of them is metal. The shifter cables are also right in that area there. Any ideas? I have a few but i'd like to see what you guys come up with?

My other major issue is the RaceRoots cold pipe for their fmic. I noticed prior to doing the install that it was very different than Tyler's, so is the manifold by the way. the cold pipe is basically to short. The obv flange is also in a retarded location which i brought up to Brice prior to the install. The bov flange on Tyler's set up is right next to the throttle body like every other fmic set our cars use. Mines is basically next to the core you can see the HKS flange on some pics. Brice told me they relocated the bov flange because of fitment issues. The funny thing Tyler has no fitment issues with his. From the pictures its obvious someone Fucked up. I will have no choice but to fix it myself at this point, but Brice if you're reading this please respond to my emails and lets come to an agreement on this.


Thats about it for now until more parts come in.

[martin_nj]

looks good !!!

[socks]

looks like you have the coolant lines backwards. not that it matters, as long as you get hoses to them. swapping them might make it easier.

[www.cp-e.com]

We'll get this taken care of. I've got the ideas I mentioned to you on gchat.

[NJSPEED3]

Originally Posted by socks looks like you have the coolant lines backwards. not that it matters, as long as you get hoses to them. swapping them might make it easier.

Yeah i just hand tightened those on there to see whats the best way. So you think if i face them up it will be better?

Originally Posted by www.cp-e.com We'll get this taken care of. I've got the ideas I mentioned to you on gchat.

Thanks Jake i appreciate all you're help !