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 Old 02-14-2012, 03:57 PM   #1
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Default P057's BT thread

Just placed the order today.
  • /C/P/E/ /F/M/I/C/ (no longer being produced. Nixed the idea for TMIC below)
  • ETS TMIC
  • CPE Safeseals
  • ATP GT3071R
  • Grimmspeed MBC

big big thanks to:

@JP@edgeautosport.com
@Lex

For their help. Really great guys.


Anywho, once tuned I'm hoping to be in the neighborhood of ~320/340AWHP, depending on the aggressiveness of the tune.... which is to say, not looking for anything very aggressive. i mainly want reliability.

Going to post up photos when the time comes. Read through many threads. I think I am about ready for this. Only crappy thing is I am running on a brutally short deadline. My apartment complex does not let me work on cars in the lot. Mom just sold house and has to be out by March 10th or 11th or something. So hopefully all my shit gets here at the bare minimum before March 3rd weekend.... if not..... Don't know what i'm going to do.

Planning to take 2 days off work, Friday and Monday to give myself four and a quarter days of nonstop fun. I will probably run into regretting starting this project myself multiple times after getting hung up on something insanely easy, but will get everything done anyways.

If anyone around the tampa area wants to watch me cry while working on my car or help out, let me know. there is always food and beer involved. I'll at least let you know when i'm done so you can either be jealous or show how small my peen still is.
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Last edited by p057; 03-22-2012 at 08:38 AM. Reason: added stuffs
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 Old 02-14-2012, 05:50 PM   #2
 
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sending good karma & moral support for my fellow floridian
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 Old 02-15-2012, 01:04 AM   #3
 
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subbed for results good luck
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 Old 02-15-2012, 08:30 AM   #4
 
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hey p057 how do you like those Megan v6 Springs?
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 Old 02-15-2012, 10:41 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by memin View Post
hey p057 how do you like those Megan v6 Springs?

I like them. They are cheap, good quality. they are about as soft as stock, maybe the tiniest bit stiffer. Sits really low, havent had my shocks blow out yet, though i figure that will come up soon.

Has a bit of rake to it, but i like that a lot. Kills wheel gap big time.


That and my brakes are the only things i didnt install myself on this car so i cant say how easy/hard it is to do.
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 Old 02-15-2012, 10:49 AM   #6
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Good luck with the install and have fun. Do take your time because a good install with no hardware issues goes a long way in terms of reliability.
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 Old 02-15-2012, 04:15 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
Good luck with the install and have fun. Do take your time because a good install with no hardware issues goes a long way in terms of reliability.
yep, 4 and some days should be more than adequate. I like to work with precision when i do things (exception of my car battery. seriously, so depressing to pop my hood )
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 Old 02-15-2012, 05:53 PM   #8
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CPE FMIC no longer being produced


options:
buy ETS TMIC
buy Corksport FMIC


going to think on it tonight
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 Old 02-15-2012, 05:56 PM   #9
 
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Good luck!

Man, cp-e is just dumping all of their shit...
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 Old 02-15-2012, 06:01 PM   #10
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CPE has gone to shit with their customer service, I am very dissapointed myself. On the intercooler, why not get the CXracing kit?? it is cheaper and a better fit than the corksport (which requires their intake I thnk)

What intake are you going to use on this build/ inlet pipe?
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 Old 02-15-2012, 06:03 PM   #11
 
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Cobb V2 piping kit and Treadstone TR8L core. Works perfect man.
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 Old 02-15-2012, 06:12 PM   #12
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because i drive a 6, not a 3




cxracing.com: Intercooler Piping Kit BOV For 05-07 Mazdaspeed6 2.3L Turbo
looks nice. i'll need to do research on it, havent looked into it much. For such a cheap price, i figure it's not very well made :\


Wasn't planning on using corksport's intake. I'll find a way around that, lol.


Thanks for the responses guys. Today has been a crappy day at work, this did not make it much better. Oh well. At least i'll be doing well with the other stuff
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 Old 02-15-2012, 06:21 PM   #13
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I have never heard anything bad about the CX racing kit, many people use it. You can also upgrade the core to a treadstone tr* if you want. If you look at the corksport, there is no way to use anything; the kit is a clusterfuck :/

Have you bought a BT inlet? You could stick to your SRI, but it will reduce performace a bit over using a BT intake
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 Old 02-15-2012, 06:25 PM   #14
 
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dont rush bro, take your time and everything will fall in place!!!g/l .do yuo have a picture of your car, i want to see how low it sit?
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 Old 02-15-2012, 06:41 PM   #15
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not rushing. just got thrown back on this
CXRacing looks to be the way to go. Saw someone else go this route. Looks nice, inexpensive, and no relocating washer reservoir tank.... having to do that is horrible.

I have an old photo. pre-brakes, sitting in my apartment driveway.

here:


Dont know if its sagged any since i took that photo back 7-8 months ago... but I'll take another one tomorrow.
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 Old 02-15-2012, 06:42 PM   #16
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CXracing kit needs the tank reloacted, which is a piece of cake. Hit up some local MSF people in your area, I am sure you can get some help!
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 Old 02-15-2012, 07:11 PM   #17
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I just did some research, and you can buy cxracing piping/couplers for 260 from them directly. Then you could buy the treadstone core, which is even better than the cxracing. This setup would run you a little less than the cxracing kit ...and better performance!

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...rcooler-72644/

If you are content on a TMIC, CPE sells their kits for 3xx now.... cheaper than ETS
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 Old 02-16-2012, 07:32 AM   #18
 
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hey man-
i am also from tampa/clw/npr..
I dont know if ill be around this weekend.. but if you need some stuff fabed up for your FMIC my buddy in clw does some good work.
his name on here is TurboFocus
he did my FMIC.. PM him if you want.
good luck on your install .
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 Old 02-16-2012, 09:30 AM   #19
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The treadstone is an awesome kit, I believe it is good to 600+ hp, so plenty o' room to grow!

@jracer did you have you crash bar cut as in the thread above, or how did you and @TurboFocus go about doing it? Use all custom pipes, or buy a kit and modify?

Thinking of doing this type of BT myself soon, so sorry if I am talking to much in your thread @p057
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 Old 02-16-2012, 09:45 AM   #20
 
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i notched my crash bar.. used a treadstone tr6 core and made my own piping.
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 Old 02-16-2012, 11:14 AM   #21
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Pft I dont care if you guys have a discussion in here. Go for it.

I will just be excited when I get the parts in. I'll post in the thread, then update OP so people dont have to go hunting through the thread. I'll try to be detailed with photos on progress.

I didnt post it yet, but fiance basically bought me the ETS TMIC. Going that route. I figure at least I can sell it easily in the future if i really want to go FMIC. I shouldnt need to, since I never do stop-n-go traffic. Heatsoak shouldnt be too much of an issue. Will also cut down on install time by quite a bit.

Debating whether or not to clean IM runners and valves before or during install. Will cut down on time at install weekend, but i am going to have to get back to that point anyway. Ugh, this is the part of the install i'm really not looking forward to. Chemtool B12 and a copper wire brush :\


Thanks for all the suggestions guys, and jracer for offering to help.
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 Old 02-16-2012, 10:08 PM   #22
 
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Its easier and cheaper if i buy all of the bends and i cut and weld them to make it work

keep tagging me so i can find the thread lol or tell racer to text me
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 Old 02-16-2012, 11:02 PM   #23
 
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good luck man! i did my ewg 3076 in 2 days with a buddies help. it was roughly 20 hours of work. Are you running iwg or ewg??? and good luck with the fmic setup! i have the cx racing kit and its pretty good only issue is it sits a little low but you can cut about 2 inches off the crash bar and raise it and itll be perfect i do hopwever wanna get the tr8 treadstone core and run a bigger core. GOOD LUCK its a fun experience
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 Old 02-17-2012, 10:55 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by ColonR View Post
good luck man! i did my ewg 3076 in 2 days with a buddies help. it was roughly 20 hours of work. Are you running iwg or ewg??? and good luck with the fmic setup! i have the cx racing kit and its pretty good only issue is it sits a little low but you can cut about 2 inches off the crash bar and raise it and itll be perfect i do hopwever wanna get the tr8 treadstone core and run a bigger core. GOOD LUCK its a fun experience
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I expect it to take a while.

No FMIC. ended up getting ETS TMIC

thanks man! I hope to get the parts soon too. I was telling @JP@edgeautosport.com i am starting to crawl up the walls with anticipation, lol. I cant wait until i start getting the parts in at the office.
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 Old 02-17-2012, 02:24 PM   #25
 
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Ha ha that's exactly how i was with jp ha it will be easier with the iwg so don't worry to much! Atleast you won't have to worry about your pto!
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 Old 03-03-2012, 06:32 PM   #26
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nothing like some photos to get myself more motivated.

Almost not looking forward to the install... I just see so much work ahead of me. Live Oak pollen sucks big time. i've been trying to OD on claritin, but no success, i'm a miserable person. By the way, the photos that load up with all the green shit all over it is the pollen for you guys who don't know. Also, i washed my car the day before. that's how it gets after a day of this nonsense.
Bored for the weekend and as the saying goes...

so this is all I did:

Got my turbo in the mail



Fortune cookie seemed to know what was up.












unboxed ETS TMIC and did a size comparison.






bit of a difference there:







Relocated battery, and it looks much better.






JBR SS kit... wow, the odd gears feel about 30% shorter while the even gears feel 60% shorter. almost doesnt feel like i am properly going into gear. weird, but cool at the same time. kinda like it!






Old K04... won't be seeing that little pooper in there much longer. 1 week until Gt3071R gets put in!



sexy covered in green pollen shit.



relocated battery, ratchet strapped. it's not going anywhere. Did not want to drill through the floor again until i was positive that's where i want it. Straps may stay or go. undecided yet.
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 Old 03-10-2012, 06:34 AM   #27
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Install day today.. woo-haa.


already got started at 7 this morning. taking a break because hungry.

anyways, here's my little progress, now i get to mark lines for oil/coolant and start clamping/removing:



disappointed with reducer needed for stock K04... good thing i bought a bunch of different sized reducers for the new turbo. at least it wont be all lumpy.



dont know where all this black shit came from... had OCC on before i installed this hunk of metal.



dirty ass fuck





saw something interesting, the EGR blockoff! I was not aware that i could get to it THAT easy. Thought IM had to be removed. jeez, it's just right behind the intake, easily removable. doing that now before i forget, lol!

just traced the line with mspaint.













damned automerge...


fuckity fuck. appparently it's supposed to rain today and tomorrow... and monday.

but! mom's the best. she went and bought one of those pop-up car-tent thingies.
I guess you get in better graces when you buy her a new roof for the house right before it sells! woohoo!

more pics to come later. i'll go through this install.... not step by step but close enough.
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 Old 03-10-2012, 07:16 AM   #28
 
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the oil in the intake is from the valve cover vent...good stuff thought man, good luck i hope to be doing this some day when funds allow.

when taking the k04 off, the pain in the ass bolts were the exhaust manifold ones between the turbo and the manifold that you cant see. me method was putting a wrench on the exhaust mani stud. i had one end open one end closed, like a normal wrench, if ur looking at the engine from the front, i had the wrench on from the passenger side, i then used a torque wrench thru the opening between the exhaust mani and the block, stuck the torque wrench drive in the end not on the exhaust mani bolt and just pulled off, came loose in seconds

not sure if that helps kinda hard to describe without a picture
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 Old 03-10-2012, 10:11 AM   #29
 
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Am ha ha that ko4 is haggard! Good luck bro have fun! Looks good so far! Btw I know this is a dumb question but I don't see the cpe big tip listed I'm assuming you have it?
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 Old 03-10-2012, 12:22 PM   #30
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taking a break because its hot as crap out and my allergies are still killing me. Had to take some friends to a beer event and pick up a tarp, just in case.

Now i'm just at the point where i need to:

Unbolt oil return hardpipe
unbolt oil feed banjo bolt and fitting
FIND the friggen coolant return, lol. then clamp/unbolt it to use new line
clamp coolant feed, unbolt.
remove turbo
put new turbo in
reconnect all hoses/lines
put downpipe and all the other crap i took out, back in.

oh and PS: still cant really get to the EGR pipe properly, i thought i had enough leverage but that thing is really stuck on there tight AND the throttle body is in the way. May just unbolt throttle body or leave EGR in there.. i'm at the point where i dont really care, spent too much time fucking with it.

Originally Posted by speedms6 View Post
the oil in the intake is from the valve cover vent...good stuff thought man, good luck i hope to be doing this some day when funds allow.

when taking the k04 off, the pain in the ass bolts were the exhaust manifold ones between the turbo and the manifold that you cant see. me method was putting a wrench on the exhaust mani stud. i had one end open one end closed, like a normal wrench, if ur looking at the engine from the front, i had the wrench on from the passenger side, i then used a torque wrench thru the opening between the exhaust mani and the block, stuck the torque wrench drive in the end not on the exhaust mani bolt and just pulled off, came loose in seconds

not sure if that helps kinda hard to describe without a picture

Yeah, i saw it was coming from valve cover... just hate how filthy that made everything. blarg.
I already did downpipe, so the bolts for the downpipe-to-turbo behind the manifold were not seized on and easily undone. the other ones connecting turbo to manifold are only four and super easy to get to (by comparison) to the turbo. I soaked it with PB blaster 3 times when i got here last night, once this morning. I think they'll come out nice and easy.
Didnt really understand that last part, but i think I got it. If I get to tackling it in the next few minutes and get stuck, i'll come back and re-read it. may make more sense. lol.

Originally Posted by ColonR View Post
Am ha ha that ko4 is haggard! Good luck bro have fun! Looks good so far! Btw I know this is a dumb question but I don't see the cpe big tip listed I'm assuming you have it?
YES, the turbo is definitely showing some age.
Nope, no CPE big tip. I do not like the look of that thing, have heard about fitment issues, and have full intentions to build my own full intake myself from parts once i make my move to a state far, far away.

Also going to get myself a new 3 or 4" MAF, whatever i find works easiest. Basically
getting a bunch of silicone and connectors from Intercooler Pipe Fabrication - Silicone Intake Systems Auto Parts to build a TIP, Intake, and FMIC. (core from treadstone or something)
I LOVE these guys. quality product, ships fast as heck, good price and always seems to be in stock.

For now, i've got ETS TMIC, Cobb SRI, and PG inlet pipe, which seems to be about 2.75", which isn't as bad as i thought originally. Will the turbo flow less? yes. Not too worried about that. not going for super huge numbers yet anyways





PS: Looking at @cld12pk2go 's thread.... holy crap you MS3 guys have it way easier. I'll take a shot of how much i can actually see things... which is to say not much at all on the MS6.

A lot of the clamping/unbolting is going to be through touch...


here's what i'm talking about.
MS3:




MS6:

I've got this big piece of metal attched to some friggen pipe. I'm thinking i should just remove it. i think i'll get more WHP gains without this big rotating mass.... LOL



Blocking up both sides, can't see shit.


main culprit is the PTO, though. damn this thing is big and in the way



Can only just barely see (and probably fit a wrench between and get to) the oil return to the pan.... :\


think this is one of my hidden coolant banjo bolts... who knows how i'm going to get on that thing... lol.




blows.
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 Old 03-10-2012, 09:20 PM   #31
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last update for the day.

don't feel like i progressed much, kept getting sidetracked with other things and missing a tool here and there.


here's what's left:

Now that i've taken off all the hoses/hard lines, the turbo has been "disconnected" from the exhaust manifold and the bracket.... something is still holding it up. I'm thinking it's the oil return hard line unless someone else knows what it might be.

It's pretty late at 1030. Going to find out what the hell is holding the turbo up tomorrow morning when i have a lot of light and a recharged brain cell.

Tried doing this without removing exhaust manifold but it looks like i may end up having to do it anyway... sucks because i did not spray any of it down with PB blaster while it was hot.

based on my progress today, this shit should be done by tomorrow evening at the latest.
All the parts going back in are easy as heck to bolt up, and after the turbo fluid lines are connected this should be easy as pie.

i took some last photos of fail from my crappy progress until tomorrow's obligatory K04 - 3074 comparisons...



Despite how much you may want to unclamp the coolant feed line, FIGHT THAT URGE. here's what happens when you're weak like me:



I probably now have coolant in my oil. not much, but a bit. enough to make me pissed that i thought "gee, i wonder if i can just unclamp this thing now....? " :\
may be changing oil after i make sure everything installed well.
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 Old 03-11-2012, 09:21 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by p057 View Post
MS6:

I've got this big piece of metal attched to some friggen pipe. I'm thinking i should just remove it. i think i'll get more WHP gains without this big rotating mass.... LOL



Blocking up both sides, can't see shit.


main culprit is the PTO, though. damn this thing is big and in the way



Can only just barely see (and probably fit a wrench between and get to) the oil return to the pan.... :\


think this is one of my hidden coolant banjo bolts... who knows how i'm going to get on that thing... lol.




blows.

Holy hell. That would be murder. I now understand why DJ pioneered the top mount turbo for the 6.

The turbo change is fairly brutal on the 3, but the 6 looks like a nightmare.
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 Old 03-11-2012, 09:26 AM   #33
 
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Yeah, makes me pretty thankful. Only part I hate about the swap is the two manifold nuts on the left. Everything else is meh.
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 Old 03-11-2012, 12:22 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by bmylez View Post
Yeah, makes me pretty thankful. Only part I hate about the swap is the two manifold nuts on the left. Everything else is meh.
ok, so this whole process would go MUCH faster obviously if i had a speed3, but also because the turbo bracket bolt to the driver's side is impossibly hard to get out. socket keeps slipping and that bolt is torqued on with like 1000 ft-lbs.

That and the top turbo stud (that holds the turbo to the manifold) will not come out like the others. If i could get EITHER of these fuckfaces to move, i'd be done. But i can't, im frustrated, sweaty and tired. going to take a break. :\
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 Old 03-11-2012, 01:15 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by p057 View Post
ok, so this whole process would go MUCH faster obviously if i had a speed3, but also because the turbo bracket bolt to the driver's side is impossibly hard to get out. socket keeps slipping and that bolt is torqued on with like 1000 ft-lbs.

That and the top turbo stud (that holds the turbo to the manifold) will not come out like the others. If i could get EITHER of these fuckfaces to move, i'd be done. But i can't, im frustrated, sweaty and tired. going to take a break. :\
Soaked in PB blaster? Is there any way you can get an impact gun in there?
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 Old 03-11-2012, 03:24 PM   #36
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OK, here was my trick to get the turbo unbolted, moved out of the way to easily get to the manifold and bracket bolts:
Since two of my four turbo-to-manifold studs came right out, it gave me an idea to remove the rest since the turbo would slide easily in between the manifold and bracket. I was able to get one more stud out rather easily, but was stuck on the last one. Tried for over an hour to get it out, came up with the idea to get that bolt-out remover thing. Spent 30 bucks on that, and in less than 5 minutes of hammertime, it was slowly backing out.
Once that last one removed, *whoosh!* the turbo finally got out of that death grip and slid easily to the left. I ended up flipping the turbo about 70 degrees to its side. removed the coolant-out line and banjo bolt. Slid the turbo towards the passenger side, used some of my sensual massaging skills and pulled the turbo into the 4th dimension for a bit and was able to get it to fall straight down to the engine bay, giving me TONS of room to work on everything else. It's almost amazing how much room there is now.


Yeah Lex, PB blasted and everything. this one just did not want to come out, and did not have enough leverage. Now that the manifold and turbo are out (just finished) I can easily get that bolt out.
The bolt on the top of the bracket holding turbo was easily removed, bottom right bolt easily removed (after i snapped one of my extensions stupid harbor freight garbage)
left one under my hand is where the super-strong bolt is. I'll be able to get it now.


Buuuuut, finally got it out, my speed6 and k04 turbo had a nasty divorce.
here's the breakup, ms6 dropped turbo to the floor.


then it was kicked to the curb.


k04 lost out on everything.



PS: super important! for some reason mazda decided they wanted to bolt the oil feed line to the exhaust manifold. result is someone like me tugging the crap out of the exhaust manifold, wondering what's holding it back. Luckily i dont tug that hard and learn my mistakes quickly. Found it bolted down to a filmsy bracket held by an 8mm bolt.

here's the bracket attached to manifold:


I'll probably go back through all this and give a walkthrough.



speed6 found itself a new relationship and things are moving quickly, matrimony photos coming later.
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 Old 03-12-2012, 07:06 PM   #37
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OK. my dumb ass realized where the BPV tube goes (straight to intercooler)

still not sure what to do with TIP nipple/hose?

Do i cap it or what?
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 Old 03-12-2012, 08:21 PM   #38
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i capped it. lets see if i blow up.

Edit:

Finished at 10PM last night. started car up, no leaks. smoking HEAVILY from coolant all over engine bay, i mean this shit is in puddles everywhere.

Odd thing is i've got some weird bubbling at the turbo-to-manifold connection (flange?). I reused stock gasket and it looks like i torqued enough to seal, but its almost like there was some fluid there, just bubbling away. Turned off car and just decided to leave it there overnight as i'm running low on coolant.

Bought some today, like 20 bucks for a gallon......... jeez. Bought two jugs. figure i'll be able to use less than half of one jug to top off now, and use the other gallon and +half to do a coolant flush before i travel across the country in about 16 months.

Other than that, car seems to run ok with a really basic, low BT map. gotta grab up some logs and start tuning this thing for reliability!
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 Old 03-14-2012, 02:32 PM   #39
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Grat's man. Just skimmed the thread, but looks like a solid install. The first time is always the worst... and stock location on the 6 is indeed a nightmare, but as long as you took your time and did it right, should be a looooong time til you have to do it again.
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 Old 03-14-2012, 04:20 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
Grat's man. Just skimmed the thread, but looks like a solid install. The first time is always the worst... and stock location on the 6 is indeed a nightmare, but as long as you took your time and did it right, should be a looooong time til you have to do it again.
wait.. what do you mean i have to do it again!?

lol
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