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 Old 10-11-2015, 04:53 PM   #481
 
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Originally Posted by pwned View Post
75% win & 25% FAIL......

The 75% Win is getting the new shocks in..

More Win is getting the rear camber back to -2* from -3*

The 25% Fail is needing a LF wheel bearing due to play but funds can't support a fix now. Plus more fail of the tab that the concentric pivots on the rear camber bent. Which is part of the frame. It's ALOT better than before at least. So the car is starting to get some WIN in it.

Plus most alignments take what...15 minutes? I spent a good hour plus on it. (age/rust)
Indeed, many thanks sir for coming in on your day off to fiddle with this bitch.

Either way, I was in no way even remotely prepared to tackle this project like a boss the way we did.

Yes, though this was knocking very closely on the door of damn near 2 stacks, considering the outrageous amount of shit in a past due state of repair, it really wasn't an optional thing.

When you take a strut out, and half decides to stay on the car, that's traditionally a very bad thing, that is if somehow said 1 piece design becomes 2 lol.....other thing I find funny, I had no idea how low the car was until it quite literally picked up about 1", though possibly 1.5" in the front lol. Car looks, feels and rides totally different, though I most definitely wish I had not have decided to do the suspension before the mani lol, would've still taken fast lmao

Good to be safe now, but still need to address basically all the bearings, though LF just happens to be in shit shape with play. I would've done it all at the same time, but as you said, I can live with 75% done until I get the mani sorted, which happens to be my next priority, however backwards it may sound lol...then we'll finish up all the bearings and car is,

dare I say,

done?

Jinxing myself lol, there's always something, but that would pretty much be all the biggies.

I'll see if I can get the fab work done this weekend so maybe we can start making some fucking power or something

We shall see muahahahahaha
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Stock motor w/ GT2871r:
380 awhp, 375 awtq @ 24 psi (e85 only)
- 13.1 @ 110, 2.1 60 ft
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 Old 10-18-2015, 08:16 PM   #482
 
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Well it happened completely different than planned.

Ended up finishing the suspension after all, go figure.

I thought we had everything sorted for install with the mani this past weekend, but just wasn't to be I guess. Called up GSD to confirm my appt, and apparently there's a ton of other work that came in that needs to be done, and then there's SEMA coming up, so because my appt was "unique" they basically cancelled it.

Not really trying to be cheap, mainly just trying to save time. We were planning for me to remove the mani, have the work done to it, then I reinstall mainly to save the time of them having to unbolt and bolt it back on, but either Alex or Scott said it's not a good idea since everyone else that finds out about this would be working on their car on the premises to save labor lol, so they decided against doing it this way = no appt.

So either they do it all, when they have time to, or I find another shop.

........

I'm not a dick; I get their point. Does make sense. Inconvenient, but I get it. Will just have to put my pride to the side and let them do the swap for me, and pay the extra for them to do it right. Who knows how many times they'll have to take it off and on to make sure everything fits up right, make adjustments and what not. That would just be way too complicated.

Had briefly spoke to @Justin@Freektune; about what could be done, and even though we tentatively had agreed on plans, considering he didn't know the full details of what I'm looking to do before we shook hands, it would've ended up being way more complicated than GSD, so that fell through. No harm no foul man, would've had to plan things out with you earlier for it to have worked, plus GSD already knows the situation so we'll continue with the original plans.

So I'm officially in for.......

10/31.

Fuck. Same weekend as kanc

So yes, I'm also officially out for that....

Going to drop it on 10/29, then likely pick back up 11/2 or 11/3.

Yes it's further out, but also gives me time to prepare accordingly, so trying to lock in a rental situation.

On the good side, suspension is basically finished. Everything is done, aside from the SPC ball joints, which I'm still deciding if I really want to install, but it legit feels like new money.

Yes I'm still slow as fuck, but I'll be damned if it doesn't ride every bit as a smooth as the misses ES 350. Very surprised at how smooth the ride can be with a 2.5" drop and Bilstein struts.

And yes I did jinx myself....power steering is leaking like Houston after the Houston 500.....so I'll need to address that soon.

And my windshield washer pump isn't working.....right before winter.

Why not.

Updates to come.
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FreekBuilt Longblock, Manley 9.5:1, Manley H Beams, BW S300SX 6268 1.00 A/R, Dual Tial 38mm MVR EWG, Twinscroll Tubular Top Mount, EGR Delete, Labontes Stage 2 Meth Kit w/ D10, Grimmspeed 3 port EBCS, 3 Bar Map Sensor w/ Matt Jackson Harness, PERM 4" Intake, Cp-E HPFP, CX Racing FMIC, HKS SSQV V3, NGK IX 6510's, Toyota Injector Seals, PERM Catless 3" Turboback w/ dual Magnaflow Magnapaks, PERM Top Mount Valve Cover, PNP Intake Mani, BSD, ACT ZX4-HDG6, Bilstein HD Shocks, H & R Springs, Stoptech Slotted Rotors w/ API Ceramic Pads, JBR Heavy Shift Knob

Stock motor w/ GT2871r:
380 awhp, 375 awtq @ 24 psi (e85 only)
- 13.1 @ 110, 2.1 60 ft
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 Old 10-18-2015, 11:10 PM   #483
 
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Originally Posted by pwned View Post
75% win & 25% FAIL......

The 75% Win is getting the new shocks in..

More Win is getting the rear camber back to -2* from -3*

The 25% Fail is needing a LF wheel bearing due to play but funds can't support a fix now. Plus more fail of the tab that the concentric pivots on the rear camber bent. Which is part of the frame. It's ALOT better than before at least. So the car is starting to get some WIN in it.

Plus most alignments take what...15 minutes? I spent a good hour plus on it. (age/rust)
I've had this same exact thing happen to me with the fucked up cam eccentrics bending the retaining slots. Mine was literally bent flat. Some hammering with a big ass hammer and a 1' 1/2" extension fixed it right up.

This is certainly an interesting thread, I'm rooting for you man. Also when I did my wheel bearings I think I spent less than $300 for all four corner for bearing and hubs, try Rockauto.
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Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC
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 Old 10-19-2015, 04:58 AM   #484
 
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Originally Posted by Fail_6 View Post
On the good side, suspension is basically finished. Everything is done, aside from the SPC ball joints, which I'm still deciding if I really want to install, but it legit feels like new money.

Yes I'm still slow as fuck, but I'll be damned if it doesn't ride every bit as a smooth as the misses ES 350. Very surprised at how smooth the ride can be with a 2.5" drop and Bilstein struts.
Won't your tires be in bad shape if you can't adjust the camber in the front with a 2.5" drop? I don't know if you have the ball joints already but the installation is really easy. And then of course you'll need an alignment.

Good luck! Hopefully you're almost through all the shit.
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 Old 10-19-2015, 07:25 AM   #485
 
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I'd say I'm below a 2.5" drop on my coils. No SPC's and camber in the front is under (higher than) -2*
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Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC
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Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk
Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert
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 Old 10-25-2015, 08:00 PM   #486
 
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Originally Posted by Amnesiac View Post
Won't your tires be in bad shape if you can't adjust the camber in the front with a 2.5" drop? I don't know if you have the ball joints already but the installation is really easy. And then of course you'll need an alignment.

Good luck! Hopefully you're almost through all the shit.
My tires were in worse than bad shape lol, but has been an interesting experiment with the ball joints.

All in all, I've blown out 3 tires from premature inner wear, but conditions are all different, and questions how important the adjustables are.

1st set had 60k on them lol, nuff said, they literally fell apart, but were fine even prior to the drop. They had cord showing everywhere lol

2nd were the stock Dunlops, wtf that is a POS tire, holy shit, I have NEVER had tires fail that quickly, but similar story, was dropped, no SPCs, but everyone that has those tires has the same failure, so I think it was (still is) just a shit tire.

Most recent was due to suspension issues, as in the fronts being completely blown and having no travel whatsoever. Like I said, car literally raised about an inch, maybe even 1 1/2 with the new bits in. Negative camber was noticeably affected in the front, and the alignment was also noticeable for the rear camber additionally. But ALL tires had the exact same premature wear, front and rear.

Only thing they all have in common: lack of the SPCs but that's only the front. For all 4 and what I think is more important I don't have alignments done every 6 months or a yr; only when I get new tires, whenever that may be. Just goes to show even though the rear is adjustable, if it's not adjusted every 6 months or so, you'll go into the negative, and you will get inner wear prematurely most likely. I think the same will be the same with the SPCs.

Still going to put them in most likely, but I'm also monitoring to see if the wear is still occurring with the same severity.

Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 View Post
I'd say I'm below a 2.5" drop on my coils. No SPC's and camber in the front is under (higher than) -2*
My front is about that now, -1.6 on the driver and -1.4 on the passenger. Believe the rear is higher still. How long have you had it on the drop and have you seen any wear?
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FreekBuilt Longblock, Manley 9.5:1, Manley H Beams, BW S300SX 6268 1.00 A/R, Dual Tial 38mm MVR EWG, Twinscroll Tubular Top Mount, EGR Delete, Labontes Stage 2 Meth Kit w/ D10, Grimmspeed 3 port EBCS, 3 Bar Map Sensor w/ Matt Jackson Harness, PERM 4" Intake, Cp-E HPFP, CX Racing FMIC, HKS SSQV V3, NGK IX 6510's, Toyota Injector Seals, PERM Catless 3" Turboback w/ dual Magnaflow Magnapaks, PERM Top Mount Valve Cover, PNP Intake Mani, BSD, ACT ZX4-HDG6, Bilstein HD Shocks, H & R Springs, Stoptech Slotted Rotors w/ API Ceramic Pads, JBR Heavy Shift Knob

Stock motor w/ GT2871r:
380 awhp, 375 awtq @ 24 psi (e85 only)
- 13.1 @ 110, 2.1 60 ft
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 Old 10-26-2015, 07:56 AM   #487
 
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Originally Posted by Fail_6 View Post
My front is about that now, -1.6 on the driver and -1.4 on the passenger. Believe the rear is higher still. How long have you had it on the drop and have you seen any wear?
Well my rear camber has always given me bad wear issues so right now all four have inner shoulder wear since I rotated the fronts to the rear. I've never had noticeable camber wear on the fronts. I *should* be getting an alignment this week so I'll let you know where it's all at.
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2006 Mazdaspeed6 GT Crystal White Pearl #07141

Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC
VersaTuner = Versatune
Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk
Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert
Turbine Tech = Forward Diff Mount - FMM
CP-e = Exhaust Manifold - Injector Seals
PTE = JB 5862
JMF = Intake Manifold w/Custom PI
Kozmic = Downpipe - 6th Port - EGR Delete
Forge = V2 BPV
Tial = 44mm WG
Autotech = HPFP Internals
HTP = 4" Intake - Battery Tray
Bilstein = B6 Shocks w/Eibach springs
Grimmspeed = EBCS
Technafit = SS Brake Lines - SS Clutch Line
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 Old 11-01-2015, 08:18 PM   #488
 
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So since I'm running out of fail opportunities for the car since everything that I can make new pretty much is, I'm running into people fails and house fail now.

Check it.

As noted, GSD was happening this weekend, and since I had 2 weeks to prep, rental car situation, emergency vaca day that I could cancel if not needed and budget was planned out well in advance. Had actually factored in extra $$$ as well because nothing ever ends up costing what it's supposed to.

Strictly because I know this place is ran by people that are good with cars, but fucking terrible with people, I tried calling every day last week, multiple times on some days, to confirm we were still good to go, and also to collect an invoice for my struts.

Different story, but in a nutshell the fuckers declined to order my struts since all I had was cash that day, and they refused to order them before they were paid for.....

because I forgot I had an appt in 2 weeks there and would try to screw them out of a couple hundred otherwise?

Alas, what did I have to do to get my shit? I have the service mngr for Mazda pay for my shit with the company AMEX, and then give him the cash for the parts.

Wtf

Even still, they still need the invoice for accounting of course, and you think these muther fuckers every got it to them?

Of course the fuck not.

Mngr calls GSD multiple times, no answer of course, and they supposedly fax this fucking piece of paper 5 times, but Mazda still doesn't have it? So now I look bad cause end of month is coming up, dealer did me a solid and they still have no invoice.

wtf x 2

Fuck it, decide to take a drive out to them the following day to make sure my appt's good, but now also to pick up the invoice and drop it for Mazda since they're too fucking stupid to mail the damn thing or just take the 15 min drive to drop it, guess this need's an adult's touch, and not in the Chris Hansen sort of way.

Thurs comes, and I figure I'll call for the hell of it, and someone actually picks up? Go figure, I tell him I'm on my way to discuss a few things, going to need the invoice, also gotta drop car Friday instead of that night since NEXT fail, tenants water heater shit the bed, but more on that later. He sounds confused, and says why would you be dropping the car again....?



Bullshit sense starts tingling, I politely remind him of the convo 2 weeks ago, and the appt scheduled. He advises how far behind they are, as well SEMA coming up, would take a lot of time, very difficult to do, do I even have all the parts, etc, either way, the gist is "I forgot, and now we don't have time for you." I tell him I'll see him in a little while, we'll figure it out.

I get there, of course the invoice isn't ready, but now he remembers the conversation. Feeds me more lines about time needed to be done correctly, them not being there from Tues - Sat next week, how far behind again, did I already pay for the rental, is it too late to cancel, did I ask Justin, blah blah.....

Fuck all that, all I need to know:

1. Are we doing it

or

2. Are you going to fuck me over

I get aggravated, take off for work, he says he'll talk to the head tech, and get back to me. I hear not a god damn fucking thing the rest of the day, so I call back Sat morning.

Again more bullshit, super concerned with if I picked up the rental or not and if he can get out of it cleanly, then he says let me call a buddy and see if he can do it, he'll get back to me?



So now we're outsourcing.

Keep in mind, it's 8 am when I called, it's now after 1 pm since I'm dealing with this heater situation, I call back pissed, he says o yea, I already talked to him, he says he can do it, just give him a call.

?

Why the fuck didn't you call me back, why do I have to call you to get this information after I've wasted the morning now? Shit I could've went to Kanc and shot the shit, exhaust leak and all, rather than sit around waiting for a call that was never going to happen.

After all, isn't this your fuck up that you're trying to pass off in hopes of me saying it's water under the bridge?

Thankfully, he sounds cool and more competent, but I need to meet with him to go over the job, but how this whole thing played out is enough to make me say fuck GSD. I have easily wasted the entire month of October trying to make things work with them, so moving on.

I recoup all the money I spend on this car and my house every 2 weeks, and at the beginning of each month additionally.

Time can never be purchased or replenished, so when muther fuckers waste it....nuff said.

More to come on this.

Also tenant's water heater shit the bed, leaked water all over the basement and her things.

Crazy.

Good takeaway: I have a u haul on my lawn filled with her shit. She will officially be out today, and I'm officially able to spend as much cash as I see fit again hahaha

Funny she decided to keep it moving once I brought he lawyer in, but despite this small setback, still a major win getting rid of that headache and her trashy fucking lifestyle.

Updates to come folks :-)
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FreekBuilt Longblock, Manley 9.5:1, Manley H Beams, BW S300SX 6268 1.00 A/R, Dual Tial 38mm MVR EWG, Twinscroll Tubular Top Mount, EGR Delete, Labontes Stage 2 Meth Kit w/ D10, Grimmspeed 3 port EBCS, 3 Bar Map Sensor w/ Matt Jackson Harness, PERM 4" Intake, Cp-E HPFP, CX Racing FMIC, HKS SSQV V3, NGK IX 6510's, Toyota Injector Seals, PERM Catless 3" Turboback w/ dual Magnaflow Magnapaks, PERM Top Mount Valve Cover, PNP Intake Mani, BSD, ACT ZX4-HDG6, Bilstein HD Shocks, H & R Springs, Stoptech Slotted Rotors w/ API Ceramic Pads, JBR Heavy Shift Knob

Stock motor w/ GT2871r:
380 awhp, 375 awtq @ 24 psi (e85 only)
- 13.1 @ 110, 2.1 60 ft
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 Old 11-05-2015, 04:23 PM   #489
 
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This shit is like Days of our Lives.

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 Old 11-05-2015, 06:49 PM   #490
 
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W

T

F

hahahahaha

Finally making progress, but damn son.

I was originally planning on keeping this and making a "kit" out of it, basically mani, turbo, EWG, dump sort of deal, but fuck that. This thing was so beyond garbage, I feel bad I even had it on as long as it was lol

As shown, the EWG runner literally was falling off.....the cracks cover the entire diameter of the section, and the only thing pseudo holding it on was like a 1" support section, which itself was starting to shit the bed. Wiggle the top of the EWG, and the runner had a ton of movement.

Not to mention the hole lol, so unless I really have a change of heart, I'll likely be junking it.

The Doc Race piece obviously is worlds better. Schedule 40, 304 stainless, she's a looker







Either way we have work to do, and I think I found the right guy finally.

He's up in NH, but turns out he has an entire fucking machine shop lol, wasn't quite expecting this.

Experienced welder, builds manis and what not, but has a flow bench, dishwasher, valve grinder, ports, polish, head work, etc, has everything, and garage is extremely neat. Call it what you want, but he's very anal about his tools and work space.

He's currently working on an 86' corolla motor with a pretty little GT15 haha, as well as a right hand drive Silvia. Work looks very good, I very excite

Fucking finally found someone who's about their shit, and turns out just so happens has a full machine shop for motor work as well.

#winning

But where would we be without fail?

Mani gasket is absolute trash lol, and fell apart upon touching it, so have a another on the way as well as a new turbo gasket.

Might as well replace all that shit at once while apart.

Had a chance to inspect turbo. No shaft play, no leaky leaky, and oil return isn't leaking. Power steering is, but that's another topic. Regardless, I expect it back likely Sun, possibly Monday.

Yay hahahaha
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Mani Swap 2.jpg (136.2 KB, 194 views)
File Type: jpg Mani Swap 3.jpg (95.9 KB, 196 views)
File Type: jpg Mani Swap 4.jpg (118.0 KB, 196 views)
File Type: jpg Mani Swap 5.jpg (159.9 KB, 196 views)
File Type: jpg Mani Swap 6.jpg (191.2 KB, 196 views)
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Stock motor w/ GT2871r:
380 awhp, 375 awtq @ 24 psi (e85 only)
- 13.1 @ 110, 2.1 60 ft
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 Old 11-06-2015, 05:58 AM   #491
 
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Damn dude, glad you found a guy to get this shit together! Now let's get her back on the road.
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 Old 11-14-2015, 11:09 PM   #492
 
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Fuckin right













It's most definitely coming into focus.

Needless to say, Greg did a fucking PHENOMENAL job. Kind of went into this blind, with no real game plan, but we worked together and came up with a design that turned out excellent, and possibly changed the plans of this build altogether. Held an easy 18 psi each WOT attempt, and the merge collector has smoothed out boost response so that it feels N/A lol

I'll get the obvious points out the way.......

no, this is not V Band, and it's not a larger exhaust housing.

Truthfully, if I had've known what I know now, I would've did it the way I wanted from the beginning, but considering there were some periods that I honestly didn't know the outcome on, that's why we ended up here.

And I am in no way unhappy about this.

Second obvious question, why didn't I just buy an existing EWG mani?

Well for 1, I heard of the fuck ups with Boost Junkyz (so sad really, they were my first choice), but regardless that I really just don't like the design of the CPE, I couldn't justify wasting the money on a stock flange unit when I had full intentions of V Banding everything.

I figure I would've had to get a new V Band EWG anyways as no company makes a 4 bolt EWG mani, so if I'm doing it I might as well be all in. At one point, I actually had the hotside and mani ready for shipment, but the guys at GSD talked me out of it, plus that's right around the time shit started going south with the tenant.

Then the DNP fails, and push comes to shove.

Then I remembered: with a proper budget, anything is possible.

Fuck it, I'll build my own.

I really liked the Doc Race design and build quality, and their customer service is impeccable. For those reasons alone, I wanted their shit in my bay, however necessary.

Mani itself is 304 stainless and sch 40 thickness, so mated it up with 1.25" diameter 304 sch 10. It's been tig welded and back purged, and since I wasn't using the DNP for anything, we cut the stabilizers and bolted them on for extra peace of mind.

Trust me when I say there will be no cracks with this bitch whatsoever haha

Last question, why stay 4 bolts?

Simple, the Tial F41 is money. I've never had any issues, it's never crept or provided anything other than precise boost control, I like the look, and damnit it works.

The 41mm sits right in btwn a 38 and a 44 though, and as we all know how misunderstood EWG size is, at the end of the day you're paying the extra money not for better boost control with the alternatives; you're paying for V Band convenience.

So if that's my only motivation, I'd rather double down on what has been with me from the start, so we resurfaced the flanges, put some gasket material in and upgraded the bolts, which legit take all of 15 secs to take out.

It's convenient enough.

And if it does become an issue, it was fabbed in a way that I can easily convert it to V Band, zero alterations needed to the dump at that, it'd take less than a day to do.

All in all, I'm happy with it, and it's a keeper.

I also had a chat with the guys at GSD about the whole situation, and I will give credit when due; they're going out of their way to make the whole appt fuck up right, esp considering parts were bought for them to do the job that never got used, and I can't return them without paying shipping and a restocking fee.

So, dropping off the DNP next week to be repaired for free. Ricky wants to give it hell, and worse case, I'll just have a brand new IWG up in the attic to go with one of the turbos.

In the end, I'll likely have the DNP for the k04, this Doc Race for the 28 and the GTX and a new snail and mani come next spring. #winning

BUT

Too much win, not enough fail.

so

Same day I picked it up........I broke a fucking axle.

Because why the fuck not.

And I happen to find a 640 hp CTS-V that happens to want to play tonight.....

and I'm limping around in FWD.

So I'm tired of this fucking shit, diff brace is my next immediate project, but I am so tired of replacing fucking axles, this is the 5th one, same fucking one as well, driver rear.

More to come.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Doc EWG 2.jpg (187.3 KB, 186 views)
File Type: jpg Doc EWG 3.jpg (250.6 KB, 180 views)
File Type: jpg Doc EWG 4.jpg (306.1 KB, 179 views)
File Type: jpg Doc EWG 5.jpg (242.0 KB, 181 views)
File Type: jpg Doc EWG 6.jpg (224.6 KB, 179 views)
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Stock motor w/ GT2871r:
380 awhp, 375 awtq @ 24 psi (e85 only)
- 13.1 @ 110, 2.1 60 ft
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 Old 11-15-2015, 08:04 AM   #493
 
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DSS axles?

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Power & Drivetrain BNR S3v2 / AP V3 + 100% Meth / Autotechs / JBR Tru 3.5" SRI w/ 51R Battery / ETS TMIC / DO Meth D07 @ 100% / ACT6 Puck w/ Streetlight FW / 80mm CorkSport Exhaust / SLS Test Pipe / Turbosmart BPV / Techna-Fit SS CL / AP Shift Hammer / Bosch 3Bar / Grimspeed EBCS / NGK 1 Step Colder / JBR Boost Tubes / ProSport Sammich Plate / Rotella
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- Miltuned

On order/To be installed: E-btec Built Motor , BNR S4, CPe EWG Exhaust Mani, Precision 46mm WG, Kozmic 6th Port, CS FSB, RDMotorsportz Crash Bar, CS Injector Seals.

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 Old 11-15-2015, 12:36 PM   #494
 
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I'm still surprised that you haven't done the diff brace yet!!
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 Old 11-15-2015, 01:33 PM   #495
 
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How the fuck do you break so many axles?! Full retard launches without pre loading the drivetrain?
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 Old 11-15-2015, 08:27 PM   #496
 
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Originally Posted by ItsNox View Post
DSS axles?

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
Thinking about it, but @Lakespeed6; still isn't running them, considering he's only put the diff brace in and hasn't had any issues launching from 5k with well over 600 crank I'm thinking the flimsy 2 bolt stock unit just isn't cutting it.

It's well overdue either way. I have 2 axles in the attic lol, so really wouldn't be an issue to send them to be repaired/upgraded. I have no idea how long or how much though.

Originally Posted by Hammology View Post
How the fuck do you break so many axles?! Full retard launches without pre loading the drivetrain?
lol you know that's probably what pisses me more than anything, I didn't even break it like a boss this time, at least with the others:

- I dumped the clutch, but that was when I first got it, because first AWD car,
- It was already leaking and I launched in the snow, and it shit the bed,
- I launched getting on an off ramp, shit went all sorts of sideways, hooked and broke, that shit was awesome haha

but this time legit this fucking jackass rolled right up on my ass on a fucking hill, in the rain. Needless to say, I don't want the shit to roll back into him, so light turns green, I come off the brake, car immediately starts rolling back, I get into the gas, it kinda sorta catches, like the front slipped, but the rear hooked hard, it kind of bogged, and I knew something wasn't right.

Gave it the beans in 2nd, whomp pa pa pa, spin city.

It's all good, was starting to get concerned that I was running out of shit to fix.
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Stock motor w/ GT2871r:
380 awhp, 375 awtq @ 24 psi (e85 only)
- 13.1 @ 110, 2.1 60 ft
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 Old 11-15-2015, 09:35 PM   #497
 
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you on a 6 puct?
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 Old 11-15-2015, 09:58 PM   #498
 
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Originally Posted by jfspeed6 View Post
I'm still surprised that you haven't done the diff brace yet!!
What diff brace?
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 Old 11-16-2015, 06:09 AM   #499
 
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Originally Posted by Micha View Post
What diff brace?

He hasn't done either if the rear diff braces yet.....
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 Old 11-16-2015, 06:58 AM   #500
 
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Originally Posted by Micha View Post
What diff brace?
Originally Posted by jfspeed6 View Post
He hasn't done either if the rear diff braces yet.....
I was going to ask the same. Holy crap. I bet the stock diff mounts look like chewed up bubblegum.

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Misc Redline & Unicorn Jizz (XTM5QS) / Sharkfin Antenna / Kuda Mount of Sweetness / Full TRS Mini-H1 Retrofit w/ Demon Eyes / TRS Xb LED Fogs / Hardwired Valentine 1 w/ Bluetooth / AuxMod w/Bluetooth

- Miltuned

On order/To be installed: E-btec Built Motor , BNR S4, CPe EWG Exhaust Mani, Precision 46mm WG, Kozmic 6th Port, CS FSB, RDMotorsportz Crash Bar, CS Injector Seals.

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Originally Posted by Ziggylittles View Post
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 Old 11-16-2015, 09:35 AM   #501
 
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Originally Posted by Hammology View Post
you on a 6 puct?
Indeed I am sir, and the violence in the way it bites in no way helps these shitty ass axles.

But when I say brace, I'm talking about the dreadnought with the beefy ass 5 bolt design. The stock 2 bolt mess is too flimsy and allows too much flex while the drive shaft is rotating under heavy load which = driver side broken axle every time I think about using it like a awd vehicle.

I've heard about the front brace as well, but Ive heard the rear is the most important. I think the awful install process is likely why I have yet to tackle this shit
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 Old 11-16-2015, 09:47 AM   #502
 
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Originally Posted by Fail_6 View Post
Indeed I am sir, and the violence in the way it bites in no way helps these shitty ass axles.

But when I say brace, I'm talking about the dreadnought with the beefy ass 5 bolt design. The stock 2 bolt mess is too flimsy and allows too much flex while the drive shaft is rotating under heavy load which = driver side broken axle every time I think about using it like a awd vehicle.

I've heard about the front brace as well, but Ive heard the rear is the most important. I think the awful install process is likely why I have yet to tackle this shit
So you're going with the SURE stuff? Im swaying between SUREs mounts and the CPE & NewAge/WhiteWidow/whatevertheycallthemselves mounts. I've also heard its the rear that really needs it. But if you're going through the misery of the install, i would go ahead and get the front diff brace as well.

@BLKSTIG; why the groan? Chewed up bubblgum mounts?
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 Old 11-16-2015, 09:50 AM   #503
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Originally Posted by Fail_6 View Post

It's all good, was starting to get concerned that I was running out of shit to fix.
This had me laughing. Cause its almost humorous at this point

Struggle and fail is real with this one lol
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 Old 11-16-2015, 09:52 AM   #504
 
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Originally Posted by ItsNox View Post
So you're going with the SURE stuff? Im swaying between SUREs mounts and the CPE & NewAge/WhiteWidow/whatevertheycallthemselves mounts. I've also heard its the rear that really needs it. But if you're going through the misery of the install, i would go ahead and get the front diff brace as well.

@BLKSTIG; why the groan? Chewed up bubblgum mounts?
Yes that's another thing, it's sure, and tempting as it is, I'm not even going to open that can of worms lol, we all know the history with them. thing is its already bought and paid for, so I'm kind of stuck with it. Not sure how I feel about having it on.

I could sell, but I've also heard decent results with this particular piece, probably the best designed piece they made.
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 Old 11-16-2015, 10:04 AM   #505
 
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Originally Posted by Fail_6 View Post
Yes that's another thing, it's sure, and tempting as it is, I'm not even going to open that can of worms lol, we all know the history with them. thing is its already bought and paid for, so I'm kind of stuck with it. Not sure how I feel about having it on.

I could sell, but I've also heard decent results with this particular piece, probably the best designed piece they made.
@Justin@Freektune; congrats on 10s sir!
Ahhhh I didn't realize you already had the part. I wouldn't be concerned about using SUREs diff mounts. I've been searching over the years and haven't seen where they fail like their other mounts.

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 Old 11-16-2015, 10:15 AM   #506
 
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Get both mounts, do them at the same time while the diff is down.

I would recommend Turbine Tech's front over SURE's. The TT one wraps around half of the diff. Any rear mount will do just fine. Both stock ones suck big donkey cock.

Almost 4 years under my belt and haven't broke an axle.


Oh and btw for the install I found that the easiest way to do it is leave the axles connected to the knuckles, drop the catback, disconnect the driveshaft and unbolt both mounts. Make sure a jack is under the diff and just lower the diff down with the jack. Swap the mounts and jack it back up into the car and reconnect everything.
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 Old 11-16-2015, 12:53 PM   #507
 
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Rear diff mount is most likely the least favorite install I've ever done on my car lol I recommend having two people, and a lift. Doing that shit on my back sucked. Didn't help that I didn't have a extra jack for the diff, I under estimated how heavy that bitch was. I wish I would've done the sway bar while I was back there, because I'll never do that shit again lol Cocksport has a pretty good off online with step by step instructions. It should help you a lot.
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 Old 11-18-2015, 05:20 AM   #508
 
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Originally Posted by ItsNox View Post
@BLKSTIG; why the groan? Chewed up bubblgum mounts?
removed. I dunno how that got there
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 Old 11-18-2015, 04:10 PM   #509
 
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I just removed the rear subframe. Takes me an hour to take out and put back in. I have done it on two cars including my own.
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 Old 11-20-2015, 08:02 AM   #510
 
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JESUS CHRIST!! i just read through this whole thread.. ive never seen so much fail, but so much win in a thread.

Did u ever look into the AFI exhaust manis? They make a top mount and stock location EWG manifold.

As for rear diff mounts i +1 on just dropping the whole rear subframe (ill be doin this again with my build when i get home).... and another +1 for doin adjustable sway bar endlinks and sway bar at the same time.

i applaud and bow down to ur commitment to this platform, urself and ur car...
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 Old 11-21-2015, 06:15 PM   #511
 
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Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 View Post
I would recommend Turbine Tech's front over SURE's......

Oh and btw for the install I found that the easiest way to do it is leave the axles connected to the knuckles, drop the catback, disconnect the driveshaft and unbolt both mounts. Make sure a jack is under the diff and just lower the diff down with the jack. Swap the mounts and jack it back up into the car and reconnect everything.
Thank you for reminding me lol, design on the TT is excellent, I had honestly forgotten about them somehow but I was considering that at one time as well.

From the way it currently looks, I'm going to end up with a SURE and TT combo, which though I've heard awful things about SURE as a company, I really can't recall hearing anything negative with this piece.

The install was the main detractor, as it seems everyone who's done it would give their first born to avoid haha, but seems to be just like swapping shifter cables.

Ask @Lakespeed6; or anyone else about that install lol, it's quoted at 10-12 hrs, there's some horrifying pics of entire dashes apart, but a few of us knocked mine out at an install meet in the winter in no more than 4, excluding beer breaks, and we most def did not take the entire fucking dashboard apart.

I think once it's in progress, it will fall into place, no pun intended, but I like your suggestion. Would save a good deal of work.

Originally Posted by MSP611 View Post
JESUS CHRIST!! i just read through this whole thread.. ive never seen so much fail, but so much win in a thread.

Did u ever look into the AFI exhaust manis? They make a top mount and stock location EWG manifold.

As for rear diff mounts i +1 on just dropping the whole rear subframe (ill be doin this again with my build when i get home).... and another +1 for doin adjustable sway bar endlinks and sway bar at the same time.

i applaud and bow down to ur commitment to this platform, urself and ur car...
hahahaha

I fail so everyone else prospers lol

Never heard of AFI though, but I googled them and they make some pretty good looking shit. Either way, I'm not too against having one custom crafted, turned out better than I thought.

I'm sticking with this project though, hell I don't pay shit on it other than when something breaks, which thankfully isn't all that often (knocks on wood lol). But I'm not that interested in picking up another monthly bill right now either haha
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380 awhp, 375 awtq @ 24 psi (e85 only)
- 13.1 @ 110, 2.1 60 ft
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 Old 11-21-2015, 06:39 PM   #512
 
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Originally Posted by Fail_6 View Post
From the way it currently looks, I'm going to end up with a SURE and TT combo, which though I've heard awful things about SURE as a company, I really can't recall hearing anything negative with this piece.

The install was the main detractor, as it seems everyone who's done it would give their first born to avoid haha, but seems to be just like swapping shifter cables.

For the rear, CS is also an option. Haven't seen any fails from CS RDM. Think phate had his CPE RDM fail, and I believe there have been a few on FB with failed sure RDM. The bushings are always the problem. And yeah, go with the white widow FDM (former TT).

I did them on jackstands without removing the subframe and I really advice to not do it that way. Just drop that Damn frame and swap mounts then mount it back in there.
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CP-E Atmosphere Kit GTX3076 Tial 0.82AR / EWG / 3,25" MAF / Catless DP
Simons 3" Catback CP-E Diff Mount HDI FMIC HTP Battery Relocation
Corksport: Rear Brace Bar - Front Strut Bar - Stubby Antenna - Interior + Underhood LED Kit
JBR: TMM+PMM+RMM - Short Shift Kit /w Bushings - TIG Throttle - Coolant Bypass - EGR Delete - JBR OCC Stage 2
Whiteline Rear Swaybar SPC Camber Joints Turbosmart BPV Autotech Internals SURE Juggernaught Stratified Guardian Angel & Boost Dial NGK IX @ 0.025
Bosch 3 bar MAP w/ PNP Harness Block8Head Dual Gauge Pod Defi Racer Boost & Oil Pressure & Oil Temp
Techna-Fit Clutch Line + Brake Lines ATE Super Blue Racing ProSport Oil Filter Adapter Mazda Spin-On Conversion + NPT/BSPT adapter

Not installed yet: SP63 longblock, FreekTune 4" Intake, JBR TIG IM, DM Meth Spacer

290 AWHP / K04
370 AWHP / GTX3076 @ 23 psi
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 Old 11-21-2015, 07:04 PM   #513
 
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This^^ lol
I don't know if CS makes the diff mount anymore, but that thing is a bad bitch. I highly recommend it.
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 Old 11-21-2015, 08:13 PM   #514
 
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@Micha; i think he just recently had his CS rear diff mount fail
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 Old 11-21-2015, 09:46 PM   #515
 
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I run the CS rear diff mount. I need to get the ww front diff mount though.
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