Parti's Freekbuilt Goodness

[Fail_6]

Found the solenoid, but there's no instructions online about which wires to splice. I'm not touching it. Not gonna risk fucking this up soooooooooooo close to wrapping up. All ready talked to baystate and they said it'd be 10 mins for them to fab the reducer and dump tube. So, as of right now this is the only thing slowing me down. If anything I'm gonna try to find a shop to wire it.

Another day wasted. Unmotherfuckingbelievable

[Fail_6]

This would be the solenoid correct? @atvfreek

[Fail_6]

Frustrating as hell, but I figured I need to do my due diligence and try to figure this out on my own. There are simply no writeups available or video instructions like the evos/stis, so hell I don't mind documenting it now.

@atvfreek I apologize for picking your brain, but I'm 90% sure based on Perrin's info on other writeups/pics the harness below is the one I need to splice. Fits snug with the solenoid on the K04. If this is what I'm looking for, I'd assume I crimp it to the 2 wires coming off the ebcs. Question is which wire crimps to which? Ones blue and white, the other is green.

Also, wtf happens to the 3 left overs down bottom?

[atvfreek]

It's just a two pin connector so it doesn't matter which wire goes to what.

Those other connectors look like they may be the o2 sensor connectors. There should be 3 of those.

Freekn tappin

[Fail_6]

Ok, that sounds good. I can definitely patch that together. And I'll be following the ewg setup per Perrin.

And yea there's 3 just dangling. I mean there's nothing for them to connect to anymore, so are they just hanging since there's nothing to plug them into or what should I do with these? Actually I think I recall you saying plug them into each other or something


***Edit: Yea I forgot the dp is still out.....that's what those connect to......

0_o

[Block8head]

Been freaking busy as hell,sorry man..
Since all your questions already been answered, i just want you to know that the spring on the WG is good for up to 17 psi.
If you want more boost you will need to order a different spring..

[dexter_5000]

So did you make it over to the shop for the work?

[Ihatefwd]

Did I hear a big turbo speed6 running today?!?!?!?

[Fail_6]

@Ihatefwd Possibly

@Block8head Sounds good, I won't be running any big boost though until I install my mounts and what not. Plus it's about to get cold. Gonna be switching to the winter map soon anyways. Haven't forgot about what we discussed either. I'll keep you updated

@dexter_5000 Fabrication indeed was done by baystate. @Jh8909 Because I do alot of business with them, they actually didn't charge me for the work. I'll ask them tomorrow what they would charge for the one you asked about. Overall came out great and works like it should. I think I have a leak though since I had to take it apart and didn't tighten it down all the way fml....

[Fail_6]

Granted this only applies if you have an EWG, but it's still kind of crazy there was no real documentation available on wiring it, especially for a Mazdaspeed 6 or Mazdaspeed 3 (I'm spelling so it'll come up with a google search), so here goes.

First, you want to have this guide handy: http://www.perrinperformance.com/sha.../asmint720.pdf

That's the link for the instruction pdf. Very helpful in walking you through what ports to use and how, depending on if it's going to be for IWG or EWG.

Regardless, you want to locate your egr. It's the black piece with a grey 6 pin connector attached, but there should actually be another black 2 pin connector wrapped together with it. Look a few posts back if you're unsure of what it looks like, or for a pic of what it connects to. I've attached 2 pics though, one of where it sits in the engine, and a seperate close up.

You'll be reusing the 6 pin connector, but you'll be splicing into the 2 pin. In my case I cut it, and then crimped them as pictured. I also saved the stock connector in case I need to stock out for whatever reason. Doesn't matter which line connects to which; it just needs a source. You'll want to remove the rubber sheathe over it, or you'll cut the factory connect too short, like I did

Tidy up your work, mount it and you're done.

People may all ready know how to do this, and this very well may be written somewhere all ready, but for those of us taking on their first build, this sort of shit comes in handy.

[Jh8909]

Originally Posted by PartiAudiMazdarati @Ihatefwd Possibly @Block8head Sounds good, I won't be running any big boost though until I install my mounts and what not. Plus it's about to get cold. Gonna be switching to the winter map soon anyways. Haven't forgot about what we discussed either. I'll keep you updated @dexter_5000 Fabrication indeed was done by baystate. @Jh8909 Because I do alot of business with them, they actually didn't charge me for the work. I'll ask them tomorrow what they would charge for the one you asked about. Overall came out great and works like it should. I think I have a leak though since I had to take it apart and didn't tighten it down all the way fml....

yeah if you could just have them make an exact copy of what you have that would work. that looks great by the way.

[Fail_6]

All right folks, the moment we've been waiting for. First start up

Mazdaspeed 6 2871r First Startup - YouTube

Mazdaspeed 6 2871r First Startup - YouTube

Clearly from the pic, yes, the other line was also loose...I smell of e85 and oil..

And a quick drive

Mazdaspeed 6 2871r First Drive - YouTube

Mazdaspeed 6 2871r First Drive - YouTube

Still some work to do. Like I mentioned, I have a leak somewhere, which I'll be tracking down. That'll straighten out the fuel trim issue. Also having the dump tube fabbed tomorrow, then need to give her another once over. Gasket for the dp is also trash, so we'll need a new one, and a bolt for the v band clamp. Also need to fab a real mount for the ebcs. Honestly, right now I'm just going for a reliable setup, so I probably won't be pushing any more than the 17 psi the spring will allow. Pretty satisfied overall with the quality of the build though.

Many thanks to @darkcherry for helping a bro out when both his rides are down, and helping to install shit. Same goes for @dexter_5000 driving an hr to come help and @Ihatefwd for the frequent whiplash just a phone call away. I also appreciate the jack/jack stands @jpfrisch87 and the tent @BigJimMs3. And of course my boy @atvfreek for letting me pick his brain. Small shit, but it means a lot to me.

Very good build and I look forward to getting her dialed in and helping other peeps cross into the unicorn realm hahahaha.....I'll have updates on the setup soon.

[atvfreek]

Glad to see her up and running D. With that ewg spring of 12psi, you can typically run 2 times spring pressure. Soooooo we will be able to run 21psi no problem and let the fun begin. Just get that dump tube fabbed up, give her a good once over and we can dial her in

Freekn tappin

[Fail_6]

Went up to baystate earlier. Dave was pretty busy, so didn't have a chance to fab up the dump pipe. Said we're going to be looking at Mon or Tues more than likely. That sucks

SOOOOO, mr fabricator here tried to heat wrap the temp dump tube and protect from heat. The picture shows how that went......

Big issue is the leak I have. Afrs are crazy at idle, literally ranging from stoich 14.7 up to 20 .....short terms are stuck at +25. Then I drive and we're 14.7, dip the throttle and it's 12-13's and wot is the 11.4 target. I've checked the intake, inlet, replaced the worm gear for the fmic.....I'm fucking baffled here. Suggestions are welcome

[dexter_5000]

do a boost leak test with a compressor then.

[Fail_6]

I actually think I know what the issue is now.

Seems the car idles and runs stoich when first started and driving normally. As the heat increases, the a/f slowly runs leaner and leaner. Took a drive with Brian (with the v6 6) and gave him a pull or 2. Car was 14.7 and climbed to 16 before I left. Came back and it was 19-20 a/f, with stfts +25. Think heat is the enemy here.

Time to heat wrap some shit and see if that changes things

[StayBroke]

Is that dump tube messed up anything yet the way it sits???

I would not go wot with that there, i would be afraid of getting something extremely hot in the engine bay.

[snailD]

holy shit darnell you have the best commentary! i hope you figure everything out tho and glad the car is running! (watching second vid now)

[dead-zone]

@PartiAudiMazdarati post some logs. Heat should not play such a big role. I are getting some big diff there.

[Fail_6]

Originally Posted by StayBroke Is that dump tube messed up anything yet the way it sits??? I would not go wot with that there, i would be afraid of getting something extremely hot in the engine bay.

Yea I've been relaxing a lot by default lol.....really don't wanna punch it until I figure out what this lean at idle issue is. Doesn't happen during the normal drive, and luckily the wastegate barely opens putting around town

I took some logs earlier, so I'll prolly be able to post tomorrow if I get a chance

[Fail_6]

Definitely thinking the heat is causing the afr irregularity, mainly since it's the only lead I have lol.....fortunately found the gasket today after doing a little searching earlier. I'm holding off on ordering since it looks fairly generic, and I think baystate could possibly have one on hand.

Took some logs tonight, and some yesterday. As the car warms, it slowly creeps from 14.7 to around 15-16, then take a drive and we're in the 19+ range when I come to a stop. Long terms are starting to look fucked now as well. One's a cruise log, then another wot, and then cruising to a stop to show the afr changes. If anyone notices anything that I might've missed feel free to pull my coat haha....tune is targeting about 16 psi with 9 or so timing, so veeeeeeery conservative haha

[darkcherry]

Found out my car is doing the exact same thing as yours.

[Fail_6]

Originally Posted by darkcherry Found out my car is doing the exact same thing as yours.

Whaaaaaaaaaaaat? GTFO lol.....the weather? Fuck's going on here. Ugh.....forced induction wtf

[snailD]

Originally Posted by PartiAudiMazdarati Definitely thinking the heat is causing the afr irregularity, mainly since it's the only lead I have lol.....fortunately found the gasket today after doing a little searching earlier. I'm holding off on ordering since it looks fairly generic, and I think baystate could possibly have one on hand. Took some logs tonight, and some yesterday. As the car warms, it slowly creeps from 14.7 to around 15-16, then take a drive and we're in the 19+ range when I come to a stop. Long terms are starting to look fucked now as well. One's a cruise log, then another wot, and then cruising to a stop to show the afr changes. If anyone notices anything that I might've missed feel free to pull my coat haha....tune is targeting about 16 psi with 9 or so timing, so veeeeeeery conservative haha

your afrs look to be pretty spot on, did I miss something? lol. your fuel trims vary in every log, leading me to believe there is some inconsistency/leak in your intake/ic. i would think a good thing to log would be coolant temps considering you think there is some kinda heat issue.

i think what you are noticing, when you get the 19+ lean afr is when letting off the throttle, the ecu will go to 29.3 afr when coasting in gear at speed, and letting off the gas a bit will get it to start doing this. with your ltft being +20 under 5.7g/s you are prob just seeing this go lean earlier than you would with a tigher maf cal.

[darkcherry]

Originally Posted by PartiAudiMazdarati Whaaaaaaaaaaaat? GTFO lol.....the weather? Fuck's going on here. Ugh.....forced induction wtf

Yea, that p2187 code was lean at idle. Looking at my dh the maf is at 3g/s and my stft are around 18-25 and ltft is around iirc 22-25 but only after sitting at idle. Once i drive they both go down to about 0. Was thinking vacuum leak. At work for the overnight and will look at it tomorrow when i get out. Also found out the meth tank is leaking from the suction/feed line on the bottom of tank. Will take out in am and seal it with some windshield adhesive. Hopefully i dont have to take it back apart again after the adhesive. I may as well replace it at that point. Lol hows the ride doing? Besides your fuel trims. Lol

[Ihatefwd]

Damn D, get this shit straight bro. my car shows Afr 17 range when I close throttle but I think D means when he stops after a drive and just idles he is around 19 Afr which is not right.

[darkcherry]

Originally Posted by PartiAudiMazdarati Whaaaaaaaaaaaat? GTFO lol.....the weather? Fuck's going on here. Ugh.....forced induction wtf

Just googled online for my dtc and was reading rhoadblock on 6crew encountered the same code i have and he found out he installed his air filter on too far up the pipe on his setup, now that i think of it i had moved air filter further up on pipe when i was going to try and install meth tank in front of air filter like @Lakespeed6 but he has a shorter sri. I am going to put the filter back in its original spot and give that a try. Btw is it possible that your maf cal is out of whack? Or maybe your airfilter is on too far? It maybe just a little thing like so. Its worth a shot and check it out.

[snailD]

Originally Posted by Ihatefwd Damn D, get this shit straight bro. my car shows Afr 17 range when I close throttle but I think D means when he stops after a drive and just idles he is around 19 Afr which is not right.

true. i didnt see anything in the logs tho where this happened, it was always at speed when he got the lean dip, otherwise i saw 14.7-14.8

[atvfreek]

Originally Posted by PartiAudiMazdarati Definitely thinking the heat is causing the afr irregularity, mainly since it's the only lead I have lol.....fortunately found the gasket today after doing a little searching earlier. I'm holding off on ordering since it looks fairly generic, and I think baystate could possibly have one on hand. Took some logs tonight, and some yesterday. As the car warms, it slowly creeps from 14.7 to around 15-16, then take a drive and we're in the 19+ range when I come to a stop. Long terms are starting to look fucked now as well. One's a cruise log, then another wot, and then cruising to a stop to show the afr changes. If anyone notices anything that I might've missed feel free to pull my coat haha....tune is targeting about 16 psi with 9 or so timing, so veeeeeeery conservative haha

D, fix that exhaust leak and then we will recheck it. You are chasing your tail at this point, especially KNOWING you have a leak

Originally Posted by darkcherry Found out my car is doing the exact same thing as yours.

Your maf cal was spot on as well, until you did your WMI setup. Go over everything and check for leaks. Also make sure your nozzle is completely secured in the coldpipe

Originally Posted by snailD your afrs look to be pretty spot on, did I miss something? lol. your fuel trims vary in every log, leading me to believe there is some inconsistency/leak in your intake/ic. i would think a good thing to log would be coolant temps considering you think there is some kinda heat issue. i think what you are noticing, when you get the 19+ lean afr is when letting off the throttle, the ecu will go to 29.3 afr when coasting in gear at speed, and letting off the gas a bit will get it to start doing this. with your ltft being +20 under 5.7g/s you are prob just seeing this go lean earlier than you would with a tigher maf cal.

Hit it on the head. He is using the same maf housing as when he had the k04. So just going from one turbo to the next isn't going to change the maf cal by 20% in the first breakpoint, but have the others spot on. Typically if you have high fuel trims only at idle, it is due to a vacuum/intake leak. Then once you come off idle, trims get better, due to less engine vacuum. Knowing Darnell has an exhaust leak, he has to fix that first. Then we can re-evaluate the trims. If they are still off by 20% then we will need to look elsewhere.

[Fail_6]

Got around to ordering the new gasket. Baystate didn't have one. Also had a more permanent dump tube made. This will eventually be dumped back into the dp though when I have time to have it fabbed. Also bought some maf cleaner, so will be cleaning the maf sensor and see if it helps any. Problem is the damn screws in the housing are stripped.......and they're like a centimeter long fml.....hoping I can order some more or pick up some replacements from the hardware store. Updates to come

[dougefresh_]

Mine were off that bad after at idle, but due to a crushed TB gasket, but I've since fixed that. Damn leaks. I hope yours gets sorted when the exhaust is fixed. I know I still have a vac leak somewhere (al la trims and was going lean at idle), but I since my compressor doesn't work and can't do a proper leak check, I said fuck it, and threw fuel at idle and now it's 'fine' afr 14.7 at idle, lol. I'm not suggesting doing this (read= don't do this), but for me it's fine, as my wot afrs are reasonable, and I just need to pass inspection. I don't have any days to burn in the driveway.

Best of luck, and I hope it works out for you soon! Just a word of advice... once you get it all straightened out and start having more fun.... don't get too greedy

Originally Posted by PartiAudiMazdarati Problem is the damn screws in the housing are stripped.......and they're like a centimeter long fml.....hoping I can order some more or pick up some replacements from the hardware store. Updates to come

I have some extras, but damn if I remember the size. They are also different... they're regular phillips heads and about 1/4" long, maybe a bit longer. I'm pretty sure they are the same thread and pitch as stock. I stripped one (bc not hex and bc maf off too much, lol), so I picked up a few spares to have just in case. You're welcome to some, or just bring one of yours into an ACE hardware or something. HD often doesn't have small metric bolts, especially around here.

[Fail_6]

Ok, as promised @dougefresh_ (I was tired last night, so no energy to upload)

Disregard the fucked up ltft's lol....lean at idle hasn't been fixed due to location unknown gasket lol...

Other than that, this looks solid as hell. Don't ask me where the hell the addln 1-2 psi came from, possibly just because it was a semi cool night. It's way more potent than the k04 though, evidenced by 329 g/s at 17 psi vs the k04's 285 g/s or so at 20 psi. Afr holds great, bats are slightly higher but new fmic will fix that. Fuel pump is loving life, and load never broke 2.3. Wastegate duty is wonderful as well, she's hardly working. Definitely feels quicker than the time suggest, but we still haz tuning to do

[helmetface]

Which FMIC are you going with D?

Playing catch-up now with your thread as I've been quite busy.

Get meth

[Fail_6]

cxracing.....I know, its struggling lol. It worked well enough on the k04, but its not too great with the 28. I see garrett and ets have cores that don't require destroying the crash bar, but meth doesn't sound too bad either. Exhaust leak damn sure ain't helping as well

[greg08]

Def get the one in the picture. The other one should hold good with just one upgrade

[Fail_6]

Hell I'm just trying to figure what problem to fix first. Once the leak and lean at idle are dealt with, I'll have to start doing my homework on meth setups or a better fmic........fml

[jrlms6]

Originally Posted by PartiAudiMazdarati Hell I'm just trying to figure what problem to fix first. Once the leak and lean at idle are dealt with, I'll have to start doing my homework on meth setups or a better fmic........fml

It's never ending haha. But glad to see everything's on it's way.

BTW, @PartiAudiMazdarati, did you end up dynoing before the 2871 to the see the difference?

[Fail_6]

@jrlms6 Nopers, I suck. Alex was super busy, and just didn't have the time to fit me in. My vds all ranged btwn 280-305 awhp, depending on dd or track map. Sounds about right based on 60-100 times, but would've still been nice to have a legit dyno

[dougefresh_]

Looking good. It's crazy seeing how much more air a BT can flow at the same psi as a stocker. Looks like you're running a bit rich up top w/ no kr. You may consider pulling a little fuel there as that can most definitely cause knock. If you have a leak, and fix it, keep in mind you may go leaner when the leak is fixed. My wot afrs move around a bit as well despite a nice cal due to a minor leak that I dont have the time/compressor to fix :/ Just take your time and fix what needs fixing and you should be solid. You're in good hands with All Freek

[atvfreek]

Originally Posted by dougefresh_ Looking good. It's crazy seeing how much more air a BT can flow at the same psi as a stocker. Looks like you're running a bit rich up top w/ no kr. You may consider pulling a little fuel there as that can most definitely cause knock. If you have a leak, and fix it, keep in mind you may go leaner when the leak is fixed. My wot afrs move around a bit as well despite a nice cal due to a minor leak that I dont have the time/compressor to fix :/ Just take your time and fix what needs fixing and you should be solid. You're in good hands with All Freek

Right now his tune targets 11.4 and is on super conservative everything. That is just a quick little map I made with a couple psi over spring pressure. Once he fixes his exhaust leak, I can tune with confidence. Haha. I certainly don't want to be tuning around a known issue, then he fixes it, and fuck we gotta start over, or worse, something breaks.

Speaking of whacky idle afrs and +20 ltft at idle. Here is your fix @PartiAudiMazdarati
P2187

Overnight that gasket man, and lets get this bitch rollin