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(Thread Starter) | Neutral : +1 score Ok well now that I've started gathering parts, I figured I might as well start a thread so I can get some help when needed. I bought a pg manifold off a member of m3f for $80 but it has a crack on the collector. Its not a big deal though because its a stock flange mani so I would need to get it re-flanged to t3 to accompany my turbo anyways. I'll be using this part for the flange: Stainless Steel - T3 Inlet Weld Flange : atpturbo.com Im also going to have the ewg tube converted from 38mm 2 bolt to 44mm vband at the same time with this part: Flange, Tial 44mm / Tial MVR Inlet : atpturbo.com and this part: 1.50" Pipe, 304 Stainless Schedule 10, 90 Degree Elbow 304 Stainless : atpturbo.com Turbo Specs: .5557 t3 57 trim .63 a/r Onto some pics now: It has the E compressor housing but I'm thinking of upgrading to the S ported compressor housing so I can haz 4" inlet 2.5" outlet. Here's the mani: And here's the crack: My goals are to reach 380-400whp on a moderately aggressive tune. Im pretty excited for this build and I plan on going forged motor eventually by springtime. Here's a full mod list for the build: -KMD FP Internals -CNT 3" Exhaust -ITV22s -Injector Seals -SURE TIGs -Turbosmart MBC -3" intake -Cp-e 4" Inlet -Tial 44mm EWG -New turbo/Exhaust Mani Studs -Vac Lines for ewg -PERM tune Stuff in bold is pre-build mods.
__________________ 2008 MAZDASPEED 3 GT | Cobb SRI | Cobb XLE BPV | SURE TIP | SURE RMM | Resonators Deleted | TurboXs Catless DP | | Cobb AP Stage 2+ | PG/Godspeed FMIC | BC Coilovers | Evo X Wheels | 245/40/18 Hankook RS3 | | Cquence Drilled/Slotted Rotors | Hawk HPS Pads | TWM STS | Glowshift Boost Gauge | Sti V Limited Front Lip | Last edited by EL F00LI0; 09-17-2011 at 12:12 AM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Solid build, bruh. 400whp should be very possible with a good tune on that turbo. I'm thinkin 23 - 25psi should get you there.
__________________ 2007 CTS-V - Trying to sell 2009 CTS-V - Not getting a cam. Ever. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
I am taking it to a good exhaust shop that works on a lot of turbocharged cars so I'm fairly confident they will make it the right angle.
__________________ 2008 MAZDASPEED 3 GT | Cobb SRI | Cobb XLE BPV | SURE TIP | SURE RMM | Resonators Deleted | TurboXs Catless DP | | Cobb AP Stage 2+ | PG/Godspeed FMIC | BC Coilovers | Evo X Wheels | 245/40/18 Hankook RS3 | | Cquence Drilled/Slotted Rotors | Hawk HPS Pads | TWM STS | Glowshift Boost Gauge | Sti V Limited Front Lip | Last edited by EL F00LI0; 09-18-2011 at 11:23 PM. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score G/l with the build. Make sure u get the correct angle for the t3 flanges or the turbo will hit the block. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score is that the .63 or .82 exhaust housing? *edit* nevermind its the .63...had to turn the laptop upside down lol
__________________ 06 MS6 |SP Built motor - Weisco Pistons .020" over, Manley H-Beam Rods, Ported Head, Ported Intake, VTCS Delete, BS Delete, VVT Actuator, Keyed Crank, 6th Port Fuel Injection | ACT 6 Puck w/ Streetlite Flywheel | Bullseye S259 .70 A/R Single Scroll | 3.5" Intake/MAF Housing | Steedspeed Twin Scroll T3 Top Mount Manifold | Tubosmart 40mm EWG | Custom DP | Custom TBE | Custom LTA Intercooler | HKS Type IV TT | Dashhawk | COBB AP | AWR RMM | PTP HPFP Guts | KILLAH BUILT |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score they run a billet wheel with the s housing, don't no if that will mes it up or not?
__________________ BT T3 .5557 @25 psi 10. 6:1 peformance3 pistons, manley rods arp 625+ rod bolts, arp L19 head studs, Ap, 4'' inlet rr mani 4'' custom inlet, ,2.5'' ic piping, treadstone intercooler tr10 , turbosmart bov , tail 44mm wg, cobb electronic boost control 1 3/4 screamer p, odyssey batt, cs racepipe, custom 3'' dp 80mm cat back 80mm, egr del, vcts del, and port matched,sure tig's, running 100% meth 2000 cc, ATC 6 puck sl fw 472 hp 461tq virtual dyno and ran out of fuel! nishan said theirs a easy 550 in the setup if i had the fuel but meh... 54,000 miles big turbo! stock block at 104000 2 bent rods current miles 113000 and runs perfect! no hiccups! tuned by nishan |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score No idea lol, I'm currently in contact with Precision via email and I'll be sure to ask them on my next email. I've viewed your thread quite a few times and it helped me learn that I need a 44mm waste gate instead of a 38mm.
__________________ 2008 MAZDASPEED 3 GT | Cobb SRI | Cobb XLE BPV | SURE TIP | SURE RMM | Resonators Deleted | TurboXs Catless DP | | Cobb AP Stage 2+ | PG/Godspeed FMIC | BC Coilovers | Evo X Wheels | 245/40/18 Hankook RS3 | | Cquence Drilled/Slotted Rotors | Hawk HPS Pads | TWM STS | Glowshift Boost Gauge | Sti V Limited Front Lip | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have a billet wheel with the E cover, so I don't see why you couldn't go the other way.
__________________ 2007 CTS-V - Trying to sell 2009 CTS-V - Not getting a cam. Ever. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Looks like I cant got the ported S housing route because thats for the CEA 5557 only and I have the standard pte5557...FML I guess now I'll just run 3" intake to 4" cpe inlet with the 4-3" reducer coupler that came with the turbo.
__________________ 2008 MAZDASPEED 3 GT | Cobb SRI | Cobb XLE BPV | SURE TIP | SURE RMM | Resonators Deleted | TurboXs Catless DP | | Cobb AP Stage 2+ | PG/Godspeed FMIC | BC Coilovers | Evo X Wheels | 245/40/18 Hankook RS3 | | Cquence Drilled/Slotted Rotors | Hawk HPS Pads | TWM STS | Glowshift Boost Gauge | Sti V Limited Front Lip | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Been playing around with the turbo and fabbing up the oil in/return lines and I'm a little confused and don't know if I have it hooked up the way it is (I like to know where shit is gonna go and have a clear game plan before my install). I'm hoping some other pte turbo guys can chime in and help me out. Here's all the fittings that came along with the turbo. http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/v...8/98479790.jpg Steel line, two fittings, two hex bolts to hold the fittings, a silicone tube, and a big bolt and some washers. Now this is the only part of this build I am concerned about as I am a noob about oil/coolant lines. I had the steel line connected to the oil return and one fitting on the top of the oil in connected with the two hex bolts. Does the tube slide onto the fitting then the other fitting goes on the end of this or what? I remember seeing in some other build threads that the stock oil-in line is held down by a bolt (the one that came with my turbo?). SOMEONE PLEASE ENLIGHTEN MY NOOBNESS!!
__________________ 2008 MAZDASPEED 3 GT | Cobb SRI | Cobb XLE BPV | SURE TIP | SURE RMM | Resonators Deleted | TurboXs Catless DP | | Cobb AP Stage 2+ | PG/Godspeed FMIC | BC Coilovers | Evo X Wheels | 245/40/18 Hankook RS3 | | Cquence Drilled/Slotted Rotors | Hawk HPS Pads | TWM STS | Glowshift Boost Gauge | Sti V Limited Front Lip | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Your description is very confusing to me. Put the oil lines on how you think they go and post a pic. The steel-braided line is your feed line and the silicone hose is your oil drain. Do you have an oil feed restrictor? If not, you're gonna blow your seals in just a few miles.
__________________ 2007 CTS-V - Trying to sell 2009 CTS-V - Not getting a cam. Ever. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Here's how I set it up: Here's the oil-in: Oil Return (shitty pic I know): The return looks like it has a restrictor screwed into it? I'm not sure if thats what it is or not but the only thing that fits on the return is the steel line. I was told this is all the lines/fittings I would need for my build so I hope I wasn't mislead.... -__- Again, I am somewhat of a noob at the oil lines lol so bare with me here.
__________________ 2008 MAZDASPEED 3 GT | Cobb SRI | Cobb XLE BPV | SURE TIP | SURE RMM | Resonators Deleted | TurboXs Catless DP | | Cobb AP Stage 2+ | PG/Godspeed FMIC | BC Coilovers | Evo X Wheels | 245/40/18 Hankook RS3 | | Cquence Drilled/Slotted Rotors | Hawk HPS Pads | TWM STS | Glowshift Boost Gauge | Sti V Limited Front Lip | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score YIKES. You have them completely backwards dude. What you think is the drain is the feed and what you think is the feed is the drain. You need to loosen the bolts holding the compressor and turbine housings on and rotate the rotating assembly so the drain is on the bottom.
__________________ 2007 CTS-V - Trying to sell 2009 CTS-V - Not getting a cam. Ever. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Thats what I thought lol cuz I could've sworn the braided line was the feed. Good thing I came here for help first. I'll prop clock it later after work. Thanks for the help man!
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Also, that is not a restrictor. That is a regular -4AN fitting screwed into the turbo. You need this: Oil Inlet Restrictor - .065" hole size 1/8" NPT (for Journal bearing and larger GT BB) : atpturbo.com Take out that fitting that is screwed in already, screw in the restrictor, then screw the -4AN fitting into it.
__________________ 2007 CTS-V - Trying to sell 2009 CTS-V - Not getting a cam. Ever. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Sweet, I was going to do some research on restrictors instead of trying to be hand fed the info but you did it for me, thanks a bunch! Also, I clocked the turbo and everything is perfect now. Going to order my internals next week then begin on rebuilding my manifold.
__________________ 2008 MAZDASPEED 3 GT | Cobb SRI | Cobb XLE BPV | SURE TIP | SURE RMM | Resonators Deleted | TurboXs Catless DP | | Cobb AP Stage 2+ | PG/Godspeed FMIC | BC Coilovers | Evo X Wheels | 245/40/18 Hankook RS3 | | Cquence Drilled/Slotted Rotors | Hawk HPS Pads | TWM STS | Glowshift Boost Gauge | Sti V Limited Front Lip | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score if it is a journal bearing you don't need a restrictor! the factory one is fine, if you reuse the standard banjo bolt on the block! you have no pic of the oil feed line that goes to the block?
__________________ BT T3 .5557 @25 psi 10. 6:1 peformance3 pistons, manley rods arp 625+ rod bolts, arp L19 head studs, Ap, 4'' inlet rr mani 4'' custom inlet, ,2.5'' ic piping, treadstone intercooler tr10 , turbosmart bov , tail 44mm wg, cobb electronic boost control 1 3/4 screamer p, odyssey batt, cs racepipe, custom 3'' dp 80mm cat back 80mm, egr del, vcts del, and port matched,sure tig's, running 100% meth 2000 cc, ATC 6 puck sl fw 472 hp 461tq virtual dyno and ran out of fuel! nishan said theirs a easy 550 in the setup if i had the fuel but meh... 54,000 miles big turbo! stock block at 104000 2 bent rods current miles 113000 and runs perfect! no hiccups! tuned by nishan |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah its a journal bearing lol. I can confirm by pm'ing the guy I bought it from. In on of the pics I posted you can just see the oil feed, I will get my camera and snap some better pics tonight for you. Cell phone pics ftl lol. Tapawho?
__________________ 2008 MAZDASPEED 3 GT | Cobb SRI | Cobb XLE BPV | SURE TIP | SURE RMM | Resonators Deleted | TurboXs Catless DP | | Cobb AP Stage 2+ | PG/Godspeed FMIC | BC Coilovers | Evo X Wheels | 245/40/18 Hankook RS3 | | Cquence Drilled/Slotted Rotors | Hawk HPS Pads | TWM STS | Glowshift Boost Gauge | Sti V Limited Front Lip | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Its a journal bearing turbo like rigor said. Can't wait to see some results man good luck with the build!
__________________ 2003 Evo VIII BUILD PLANS: LR 2.0/2.4, 6466, 800+whp. Shooting for 9s at full weight. Time is on my side, gonna take forever. Old: 2009 White MS3. Fully bolted and tuned. Sold |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I thought that it was lol thanks man! Cannot wait to get started on this build...should be fun! Tapawho?
__________________ 2008 MAZDASPEED 3 GT | Cobb SRI | Cobb XLE BPV | SURE TIP | SURE RMM | Resonators Deleted | TurboXs Catless DP | | Cobb AP Stage 2+ | PG/Godspeed FMIC | BC Coilovers | Evo X Wheels | 245/40/18 Hankook RS3 | | Cquence Drilled/Slotted Rotors | Hawk HPS Pads | TWM STS | Glowshift Boost Gauge | Sti V Limited Front Lip | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Fuckk I'm really reconsidering this turbo. With comparing pictures, the 5557 looks so much smaller than a 3076 and I'm beginning to wonder if it will make the power I'm expecting it to. I mean it is the most basic 5557, not even the billet cea :/ Tapadatass
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hmmm...yeah, not sure how much power you'll make. You'll have to run a fair amount of boost. I'm at 20 - 21psi myself and not quite making the power I thought I would. Do I regret going with this turbo? Not entirely. Would I run something else (like a gtx3071)? Yes.
__________________ 2007 CTS-V - Trying to sell 2009 CTS-V - Not getting a cam. Ever. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score That was the plan was to run 20-22psi and hopefully be around 380-400ish whp. I want to go with a gtx3071 so badly but at the moment the funds are a little low now from some video equipment I purchased. Im trying to decide what would be better in the long run...I mean its a journal bearing so it is rebuildable if shit happens...I'm just concerned about the size and how much power I could make at 22psi...it doesn't seem much larger than the k04
__________________ 2008 MAZDASPEED 3 GT | Cobb SRI | Cobb XLE BPV | SURE TIP | SURE RMM | Resonators Deleted | TurboXs Catless DP | | Cobb AP Stage 2+ | PG/Godspeed FMIC | BC Coilovers | Evo X Wheels | 245/40/18 Hankook RS3 | | Cquence Drilled/Slotted Rotors | Hawk HPS Pads | TWM STS | Glowshift Boost Gauge | Sti V Limited Front Lip | |
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as it is more than you can put to the ground you may have to run a little higher psi but i think their good to the 30psi range, and yours has a smaller wheel on the compressor wheel, i think if you have good flow mods it should spool by 3300 full spool! 3076s don't full spoll till 4300 unless twin scroll ... buy then game over in a fwd i need major traction mods to put half ive got down, smoke them in forth on a pass kinda sketchy!! but fun i might be wrong on the spool as the only guy running that turbo put an e bay turbo on and dissapeared, but he was running over 35psi on his lol at the end but he hit 400hp at a reasonable boost 24-26 ... running stock maf size, also i think that was holding him back some.... if you have questions shoot me a pm....
__________________ BT T3 .5557 @25 psi 10. 6:1 peformance3 pistons, manley rods arp 625+ rod bolts, arp L19 head studs, Ap, 4'' inlet rr mani 4'' custom inlet, ,2.5'' ic piping, treadstone intercooler tr10 , turbosmart bov , tail 44mm wg, cobb electronic boost control 1 3/4 screamer p, odyssey batt, cs racepipe, custom 3'' dp 80mm cat back 80mm, egr del, vcts del, and port matched,sure tig's, running 100% meth 2000 cc, ATC 6 puck sl fw 472 hp 461tq virtual dyno and ran out of fuel! nishan said theirs a easy 550 in the setup if i had the fuel but meh... 54,000 miles big turbo! stock block at 104000 2 bent rods current miles 113000 and runs perfect! no hiccups! tuned by nishan | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Wow, lots of posts over night lol. I don't think I can exchange for another as I bought it brand new off another member but I might still give it a try. I'd like to have the 5557 cea with s housing, I'd even put some cash on top if needed.
Iirc, cageyvet had the same turbo as I did, with the e housing...Im wondering what he did for his inlet. Im sure I read it sometime when I was researching this turbo I jut dont remember. Is he still active on here?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score how much are you paying for the turbo? just wondering how much money we talking about when comparing to the gtx3071
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I paid $850 for the pte turbo, they go for $9XX new. Tapadatass
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| Not Ranked : 0 score bah! for 915 I would have got the billet one, I think bymlez has the link but yeah a gt3071 is an extra 400 bucks dont know if thats in your budget, tis expensive this hobby of ours
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah thatd be easily in my price range if I could sell the turbo, dunno how quick itd sell. I'm still consider using it. I feel that at 22psi I could be around 380-390whp with the right tune. Also I bought it brand new off a user on here so I didn't have a choice of billet wheel or not. I wouldve gone the cea ported s housing route as well. Tapadatass
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Don't let the size deceive you. You're only comparing the housing sizes to the k04. Do you know how ginormous the 5557 WHEELS are compared to k04? Not even close to same ballpark. 22psi isn't going to make the power you think you will if my turbo is any indicator, though, sorry to say. rigor is running 26psi on his and he's melting his tires, but 4psi is worth a good 50whp. I'm planning on over 25psi if knock isn't a problem. Are you afraid for your stock motor? I wouldn't be. If you just want to keep the turbo and run 25psi, I think you'll be hitting 400whp. That's enough to put a few lengths on a new 5.0 Mustang (unmodded, of course...), and you would be owning Challengers, Camaros, modded Evos, and the like.
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Also, this site is the shit. I have never been this well informed on any of the other forums I am apart of ![]() I will take a lot more pics of what I have, you guys can determine if it is in fact said restrictor.
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Good luck man don't know what you want besides 400whp, which is achievable on this turbo, but if you're having second thoughts upgrade before you put it on and have second thoughts. Nothing would blow more then that
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It doesn't matter if you add another restrictor. It's not like restrictors cut down on flow each time oil passes through them. If your turbo already has a .065" restrictor on it and you put another .065" restrictor on it not knowing...all you're doing is pushing oil through the same size hole twice.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score This how mines came with the tag on it for the oil resritctor |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score yeah you won't make 380-400whp on 20-22psi. For reference, realgib made 400whp at 23psi, but that was on a gtx3076r. If you were to buy a gtx, figure on the upgrade costing a few hundred MORE than the base turbo itself. That puts the suckers even more expensive. Only reason I got the gtx3076 myself was I wanted some head room for later on if I build the motor or someone comes out with injectors for us. Regardless, what you have is a good turbo, but if you want to upgrade, and you bought from them, call 'em and see if you can exchange.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You can also upgrade to PTE's PT5965 with "S" compressor cover 4.0" inlet/2.5" outlet |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score ^Thanks for chiming in rigor. cageyvet, like him or hate em, made 380@ 20psi but on the Standback. With the AP, the advances in the power the AP has brought, and 25psi you'll be fine man. And like rigor is saying once u go beyond that, if u ever do there's some awesome results for numbers as you go. I just wanna see someone use this! Lol. I'm sure @turd burglar does too hahaha
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| Not Ranked : 0 score cagey isn't on here much, anymore. He's really busy and is out of town a lot. You can PM him, but give him 1 - 2 weeks to respond, haha. He's going to do a K20 swap into the MS3, lulz... Anyway, @SPEED6 KILLAH, does that warning say "Don't run another restrictor right before this one"? Just seems odd to me...if you put another restrictor in, the holes would be extremely close together, I really don't see how it would affect things. They would be maybe .1" apart, if you use the restrictor I posted a link to. Oh well. Looks like rigor says it takes this turbo a little bit of oopmh to get going. That's what I'm hoping for mine with the bigger compressor wheel and all. So maybe you'll just keep it after all?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Anyway, @SPEED6 KILLAH, does that warning say "Don't run another restrictor right before this one"? Just seems odd to me...if you put another restrictor in, the holes would be extremely close together, I really don't see how it would affect things. They would be maybe .1" apart, if you use the restrictor I posted a link to. Oh well. Looks like rigor says it takes this turbo a little bit of oopmh to get going. That's what I'm hoping for mine with the bigger compressor wheel and all. So maybe you'll just keep it after all? [/QUOTE]Yes its just say don't remove oil restrictor and if remove warranty will be void.. |
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