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 Old 03-29-2012, 05:54 PM   #1
 
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Default QwkEVO's BT Setup (3071GTX)

First off, big thanks to JP@edgeautosport.com ! He talked me out of wasting my money on a BNR Stage 3 and going with something much better.... the 3071GTX. Also thanks for the awesome prices, and service you gave me.

Also big thanks to all of those that have shared their builds, pictures, issues they have come across. It makes it a LOT easier for those of use who havent done the install yet. The info helps not only with the install but hopefully avoiding the same potential problems that others have encountered.

I'm currently fully bolted on the stock K04 on my 2008 MS3, but wanted more power (of course!). I really wanted something more of a direct bolt on using the mods I currently have but I know in the end I wasnt going to be happy with anything shy of 400hp. Which is my goal here, 400-425 WHP on an E85 mix tune, no meth.

I started out ordering the 3071GTX kit on a layaway plan, with hopes of paying it off in a couple of months. Apparently I was more motivated than I realized and paid it off in 2 weeks. Got the turbo kit and immediately took off the turbine housing and sent if off to Swaintech for their White Lightning coating that's supposed to cut temps down by as much as 30%. For those that are interested it cost me $100 for the coating and $23 for return shipping. It's a great product but took a month for them to actually apply the coating and ship it back to me.

Before Coating:







After Coating:





I've since got the housing back and assembled the turbo back together. Since then I read where another member (@SleeperHatch) was having major boost creep issues. So I decided to go the @cld12pk2go route and port the WG housing some more and get rid of the flow obstruction beneath the flapper.









While the turbine housing was gone I decided to do some maintenance/performance stuff to get ready for the BT swap. I Picked up a used factory intake manifold which I had ported by Pablo (aka @SPEED6 KILLAH). He did an awesome job of porting it, and making it a plug and play install. I did take it to a local company prior to installing for ceramic coating.

After porting and polishing, VTCS removal, etc. :













On the car now, ceramic coated:



(Note to those that go this route. There is a quick release vacu-lock fitting with a red cap in the manifold that is really hard to remove, and you are almost guaranteed to break it. It has to be removed if you do ceramic coating otherwise it will melt in the oven during the coating process and ruin the coating (Don't ask me how I know this hehe). Turns out that fitting can't be ordered direct from Mazda, it shows in the parts diagram as coming with the manifold only. Well it turns out you have to order a Ford part #. It's from a different car that uses the same fitting, but you can order it separately from the manifold. The part # is 3S4Z9A475AA. It runs between $25-30.)

So my maintenance/peformance parts consisted of PTP injector seals, PTP injector stud kit, Bosch 3 Bar Map sensor, JBR TB/IM TIG's. I also bought needed materials/tools to clean my intake valves (they were heavily covered in carbon buildup). I used a media blasting gun and fine walnut shells on each intake runner/valve to get rid of all the built up crap. This method worked awesome! My valves looked damn near new when I was done. It was a bit messy and time consuming but worth it, and makes sense when you have the IM off already as it is. Big thanks to @polysynth for the diy (Cleaned my intake valves)

The tools I used:



While still waiting on the turbine housing I came across the @RaceBuilt manifold thread (http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...ifolds-106788/). I was about to go with the Full Race Pro Stock replacement. I was really impressed though with the build and quality of Racebuilt's manifold and the fact that it was almost $300 cheaper ($635 shipped) was a factor as well. I ordered it through JP and had it sent directly to JetHot for their JetHot 2000 coating which is good up to 2k degrees. I'm really trying to keep temps down underhood as I have the plastic intercooler plumbing under the hood removed (hat to for the CS FMIC piping to clear) and dont want to risk melting or bubbling the paint from excessive heat. The JetHot coating cost me $215 plus $30 shipping for those that are curious. The only drawback to the coating is now you cant see all the pretty welds, or even the fact its a Racebuilt manifold since they coated over the logo badge (Sorry Racebuilt!).

Pics:











I really want to run a 3.5" maf housing for tuning purposes and to get more air flow and not peg my MAF sensor as quickly as others have. My current FMIC setup is a Corksport kit designed to be used with their SRI, which I already had. Unfortunately the routing of the piping near the intake does not allow for much room to run a bigger maf, etc. So I decided I'm going to go a different route with the FMIC. Looked around at the decent kits/cost and decided to go a route others are taking now. I ordered a Treadstone TR8L core and the Cobb V2 piping kit. $832 vs. over a grand makes a lot more sense. I'll be doing an in depth DIY with lots of pics this weekend when I do my install.

This is why I need a different piping kit, hardly room as it is for the CS SRI:



Also I believe I have the first 3.5" MAF housing from JBR, he just finished this and shipped it to me a couple of days ago. As you can see it has the pipe to route back to the VC as my CPE 4" TIP doesnt have that integrated into it. So no VC breather filter will be necessary.



I'll update with my progress over the weekend. My buddy has a shop so I'll be able to use his lift tomorrow and Saturday. Two days and two guys should be able to get this done without too many problems I hope! I dont want to jinx myself though hehe.

Wish me luck!!
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Last edited by QwkEVO; 04-05-2012 at 12:02 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 03-29-2012, 06:00 PM   #2
 
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very nice, seems like a solid build.
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 Old 03-29-2012, 06:13 PM   #3
 
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Very nice setup man. GL with the install.
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 Old 03-29-2012, 06:20 PM   #4
 
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All this work with a 3071 :p well...it'll spool fast!

Good luck man, that bay is looking seeeeexxxyyy
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 Old 03-29-2012, 06:22 PM   #5
 
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Looks good bro!

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 Old 03-29-2012, 06:27 PM   #6
 
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Looks like a lot of thought went into the build from the Swaintech to the maf housing.

Good luck with the build and I hope you eclipse your goal.
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 Old 03-29-2012, 06:28 PM   #7
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dibs on k04 Im thinking about the bnr stage 3 myself actually.
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 Old 03-29-2012, 06:30 PM   #8
 
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Very nice! Ill be doing my build also this weekend on Jack stands though and need to finish in 1 day lol

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 Old 03-29-2012, 06:33 PM   #9
 
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Thanks guys! I read a LOT before making the choices I did. I will say this, if FR had their EFR Turbo kit for sale right now, I would of definitely gone that route hands down. I am patient, but not "wait until next year" patient.

@dantes5823 sorry man, I'm not selling any of my stock parts. I know sometime in the next three years I'll be stepping into a GTR. In the meantime I'll play around with the MS3. Need my stock parts to go back to stock.
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 Old 03-29-2012, 06:52 PM   #10
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@QwkEVO give me yours now and ill give you mine later
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 Old 03-29-2012, 09:19 PM   #11
 
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Look goods @QwkEVO.. Wanna see those hp numbers lol
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 Old 03-29-2012, 10:40 PM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by SPEED6 KILLAH View Post
Look goods @QwkEVO.. Wanna see those hp numbers lol
I really think/hope 400 whp is a possibility with my setup. Especially considering I have DJ in my corner handling the tuning. I hope to have some numbers from the dyno in a couple weeks or so once the tune is dialed in.
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 Old 03-30-2012, 04:26 AM   #13
 
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400whp should easily be obtainable. I'm getting closer and closer and I haz less mods.
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 Old 03-30-2012, 05:28 AM   #14
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Really nice work man. Awesome attention to detail.
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 Old 03-30-2012, 08:19 AM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by jbarone View Post
Really nice work man. Awesome attention to detail.
Thanks Jamie, can't do it though without awesome parts manufacturers like yourself!
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 Old 03-30-2012, 10:19 AM   #16
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Make sure when you put that hotside back on the turbo you put that bolt that has a ground head right by the oil feed so you dont run into any problems when you install.
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 Old 03-30-2012, 10:25 AM   #17
 
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have fun with that swaintech garbage.they did 2 other cars local to me and within 100 miles the coating was flaking off from the heat
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 Old 03-30-2012, 11:23 AM   #18
 
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Looking good. why dont you just take a buffer wheel and buff off the cc on the exhaust mani so you can see the rb plate. I think it would look killer with the stainless Racebuild plate to mix it up some. What inlet you gonna run with that 3.5 intake? Cause I believe the cpe one tapers to 3-3.25 inch doesnt it right where it connects. Looking good again man.
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 Old 03-30-2012, 01:08 PM   #19
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Thanks for the find on the little red peace on the intake mani.
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 Old 03-31-2012, 09:40 PM   #20
 
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Originally Posted by dantes5823 View Post
Thanks for the find on the little red peace on the intake mani.
You're welcome!

Originally Posted by driver311 View Post
Looking good. why dont you just take a buffer wheel and buff off the cc on the exhaust mani so you can see the rb plate. I think it would look killer with the stainless Racebuild plate to mix it up some. What inlet you gonna run with that 3.5 intake? Cause I believe the cpe one tapers to 3-3.25 inch doesnt it right where it connects. Looking good again man.
Unfortunately I'm still not sure which one I'm going to use. I do have a Treadstone 3.5" MAF housing as well as a JBR 3.5" maf housing. I'm done for today as I ran into a snag. I'll hopefully know monday if I can source out my parts locally.

Originally Posted by 03scgt View Post
have fun with that swaintech garbage.they did 2 other cars local to me and within 100 miles the coating was flaking off from the heat
That sucks! I hope it doesnt happen to mine If it does, they will be getting an earful, considering they had my housing for a month. Plus I hate wasting money, even if it's $100 or $5. I'll be filing a claim with my CC compay if it flakes off in the least.
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 Old 03-31-2012, 09:49 PM   #21
 
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Ok, so time for an update. I was too tired to do much last nite. First off, I didnt get done today. I would of had it not been for a $20 silicone coupler/joiner. The cobb piping kit's 90 elbow reducer to the turbo wasnt long enough. I need to get like a 2" extension and a 2" coupler to get things bolted up.

HUGE thanks to @cld12pk2go His DIY made this job soooo much easier!

This install wasn't too hard, it's more tedious and time consuming than anything.....

Oh, for those that want to run the Treadsone TR8/8L intercooler with the Cobb V2 piping kit here is the info on the hardware. You need two M8 X 1.25 16MM long bolts with at least a crush washer to bolt up the FMIC to using the Cobb piping. I would advise using some Red loctite on the threads as well. Also, the mounting threads that go into the FMIC are an insert and not a tapped thread. So be careful threading into it. I actually could not get a bolt to start by hand. There were some serious burrs in the threads at the opening of the insert that made it hard to start. Just use a socket or wrench to start the threads and the bolt will go in fine. As for the rest of the install, just follow Cobb's instructions and you'll be fine. Other than slightly drilling out the holes on the Cobb fmic mounting bracket and getting your own hardware, this is a 100% plug and play setup!

Here are some pics I took during the install the last two days.....



































The foil on the factory heatshield got thrashed during the install. So I peeled off the factory foil and recovered it in DEI High temp floor and tunnel heat shield.

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 Old 04-01-2012, 08:00 AM   #22
 
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New heat shield is ballin.

Oh, nice turbo install, too.
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 Old 04-01-2012, 09:02 AM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by bmylez View Post
New heat shield is ballin.

Oh, nice turbo install, too.
Thanks! I think? hehe. I was amazed at how thin that foil was on the factory heat shield cover. Thinner than the aluminum foil in your kitchen drawer. The DEI stuff is supposed to radiate heat up to 1750 degrees.
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 Old 04-01-2012, 01:19 PM   #24
 
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So I ordered from Silicone Intakes this cool 2" Silicone joiner. It is tapped for different types of fittings. I ordered a 1/8" npt 4mm barbed fitting. I'll use that for my boost source instead of tapping the actual silicone coupler. I'll go to Home Depot and get a couple of 1/8 NPT caps for the other two ports.

Water Injection

Pretty cool piece IMO.
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 Old 04-02-2012, 09:45 AM   #25
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Nice install good sir that is a really nice setup.
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 Old 04-02-2012, 10:12 AM   #26
 
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it'll be even nicer once I can actually get the car running again, heh. Thanks to JP for taking my order again. You guys are officially my number one source for spending any and all my extra cash hehe.
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 Old 04-02-2012, 11:59 AM   #27
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I had a question, is that the coolant feed setup ATP sent with your turbo or did you piece that together yourself?
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 Old 04-02-2012, 12:12 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by QwkEVO View Post

HUGE thanks to @cld12pk2go His DIY made this job soooo much easier!

Glad my write up was of value. :-)

I sooo wish I knew to replace those freaking coolant lines starting out. Yours look very good.
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 Old 04-02-2012, 01:28 PM   #29
 
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Originally Posted by eric@edgeautosport View Post
I had a question, is that the coolant feed setup ATP sent with your turbo or did you piece that together yourself?
Hey Eric,

Only thing from ATP is the short red silicone extension they include on their braided coolant feed line. The other red silicone line I bought online. Silicone Intakes carries the 3/4"-3/4" barbed female coupler to extend the heater core line. Also bought that red silicone hose online. SILICONE HOSE,SILICONE HOSES,TURBO HOSE,TURBO HOSES,INTERCOOLER HOSE was the company I went through for the hose....
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 Old 04-02-2012, 01:30 PM   #30
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Yeah but what about those blue fittings and that braided line? Did that come from atp? Also the black fittings on the oil return line?
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 Old 04-02-2012, 01:49 PM   #31
 
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The blue banjo bolt/braided line is from ATP for the coolant feed. The black fittings are AN fittings on the oil drain line provided by ATP as well.
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 Old 04-02-2012, 02:13 PM   #32
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That must be a new thing cause they never used to be like that
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 Old 04-02-2012, 06:21 PM   #33
 
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Originally Posted by eric@edgeautosport View Post
That must be a new thing cause they never used to be like that
Indeed, mine wasn't like that and I recieved it like a month ago.

Sent from my Rezound
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 Old 04-02-2012, 06:22 PM   #34
 
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i'm jelly
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 Old 04-03-2012, 12:28 AM   #35
 
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I'm on my phone so its hard to tell....but is your oil drain crimping from the bend? Might just be the angle....I had to cut mine quite a bit for it not to crimp and restrict flow
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 Old 04-03-2012, 12:59 AM   #36
 
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Looks like this is coming along very well. I'm basically about to do the same setup but still figuring out what mani I want to run.
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 Old 04-03-2012, 04:26 AM   #37
 
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Awesome build man, i hope to have all a manifold sometime soon.
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 Old 04-06-2012, 11:20 PM   #38
 
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Originally Posted by 86azms3 View Post
I'm on my phone so its hard to tell....but is your oil drain crimping from the bend? Might just be the angle....I had to cut mine quite a bit for it not to crimp and restrict flow
No crimping at all, just the weird angle. I do recommend bolting the drain fitting to the block first, torque it to 7.5 ft lbs. Then connect the hose to the drain fitting. Much easier and less chance of stripping the drain bolts to the block.
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 Old 04-06-2012, 11:27 PM   #39
 
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Minor update, the car is up and running. DJ got me a nice basemap, however I cant do crap right now as I have a major boost leak at the turbo outlet. Mainly because the Cobb 90 elbow is a 1/4" too big at the turbo outlet, and I cant clamp it tight enough to where it wont leak. So I have a 90 elbow in the right size coming from silicone intakes.

The car started fine though, no fluid leaks at all, I'm just not making any boost right now. Once I get the new elbow in, pressure test the system to make sure all the clamps are tight, then the fun will begin.

Sorry for the crappy iphone pic. But here is a look at the engine bay after I got everything back togther. That CPE TIP doesnt fit for crap in between the battery box and the head with the ECU attached. I temporarily zip tied the ecu to the front of the battery box. I am going to do a battery relocate to the trunk next week and make a custom mount for the ecu, clean things up, etc.

I am happy with the intake setup I did, the JBR 3.5" Maf worked out great. I'm going to add a 90 fitting to the line coming off the MAF so there is a more direct run back to the valve cover so I dont have hose snaking everywhere along the top of the motor. A 3"-3.5" 45 reducer elbow put the intake in the perfect spot with all kinds of room around it.

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 Old 04-07-2012, 06:43 AM   #40
 
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Your engine bay is so clean it brings a tear to my eye.

Just fyi, a leak at the turbo *inlet* is not a boost leak. You don't make boost before the turbo. If you were to go out and try driving, you would run retarded *lean*, which is worse than a boost leak. Interesting that your inlet is too big but other people didn't have that problem...

Also, good choice on the HKS filter. I haz a purple one
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