And the record begins with a song of rebellion...
 

What the fuck did I get myself into? So long story short. Last car payment is this month so I figured I'd kill it. Had a smoking K04 after just 40K miles on it. Fed up, did a compression test at 180 across all 4 and figured what the hell; Might as well upgrade the turbo while I'm replacing it.

I was originally going to go BNR S3, but the GTX3076r came up for a steal and the devil on my shoulder wouldn't go away.

So this is where it stands so far:

ON:
HPFP internals
M2 DP w/stock CBE
AP v2
Duro 80 Trilogy mounts
NGK IX .026
Passport Boost Gauge
3 Bar MAP w/harness
EGR Delete and Block off
JBR OCC V1 w/check valve
Forge BPV
Slotted Stoptech Rotors
Bilstein HD Shocks
H&R Springs


Ordered and Paid for:
GTX3076r EWG 38mm w/Screamer Pipe
CP-e Seals
GS EBCS
Freektune 3.5" intake with BT Tune option
JBR TB Therm gasket and Bypass
JBR Intake Therm gasket

My engine is currently torn apart. While fixing an oil leak on the HPFP extension housing I decided to install the EGR delete and OCC. I snapped the fucking retainer clip on the PCV valve so I figured Id just pull the Intake off and replace it much easier. Then I figured while that was off, I might as well clean the valves and install new injector seals. Well I decided to be a cheap ass and not pay for overnight or 2 day shipping so the seals wont be here till Wed. Might as well PnP the mani and VTC Delete while I wait!

I'm in way over my head, but at least its exciting. I plan to run an e85 mix as the pump is one block away. I have not decided on an IC option; if its going to be upgraded TMIC or FMIC. All the FMIC options seem shitty and a ton of work on the MS6, but I have a few used kits I'm looking at and might pick up to fab.

I've been on the forum for a long time now, going from modded back to stock and now BT. Hope it goes smoothly, and thanks in advance for any help and advice for what is sure to be a lot of stupid fucking questions and fails!

Sounds like fun good luck with everything man!

I told you this would be full of fail. Removing the injectors to install the seals and the t40 snapped clean inside.

Good luck haha Say Anything Quote FTW!

Ha!! Sprayed some wd and compress aired that shit right out. These fucking bolts won't budge. I guess I'll let it soak a bit in PB

Edit: need a better socket th replacement is already warping and twisting.

Got a better 3/8 t40, mother fucking head stripped.

Shit man I feel the fail over here. Sorry to hear. For the other three, I would let those bitches soak in PB blaster or Liquid Wrench overnight. Blast it a few times in between.

Already decided that. So I bought a set of used CS seals after I already purchased the CP-e ones new. I was just going to send them back but looks like I will keep them and use the replacement bolts for the crows feet.

Any recommendations on the bolt tomorrow, easy out?

tap and reverse drill bits? or just drill it out completely. have u tried a larger torx socket yet? this is why i dont fuck around with torx's i use snapon ones or die lol... and let they bitches always soak if they are big

Tried the reverse out and all it did was completely round the inside out on the two torx bolts that wouldnt budge. I have the easy out tap set I will try as last resort, I really dont want to fuck up the threads on the head. First I think I might try the Irwin Nut extractor

http://www.focusst.org/forum/attachm...actors-802.jpg

I saw some videos of people using it on stripped torx heads. I could also try to notch the head and use either an pneumatic screw driver or pneumatic hammer and try and hammer it counter clockwise.

I had the dealership fuck my motor up when they installed the VVT and replaced the turbo 40K miles ago. Thy rolled the cam back and bent all my valves; had to replace my entire head. So I dont know if these bolts are known to seize or they overtorqued the shit but those fuckers are not moving.

i've used a small chisel or punch on the outside edge to push bolts counter clockwise before. i would also suggest heat but thats too close to the injector.

i have a set of those bolt removers u attached.. they do work but ive never used on a torx bolt only on regular SAE and metric bolts/nuts... worth a try.. irwin has them on amazon for cheap...

Also the air hammer isnt such a bad idea just make sure u make the notch pretty wide so the air hammer can bite... Other solution with heat would work but u better be careful with where u point the heat. i would pull all the rest of the injectors and use the heat from the injector side flashing the heat away from the current injector still installed...

Success! Came out easy with the bolt remover!

sounds like a win... now change to studs and nuts and stop worrying

Picking up studs and nuts from Fastenal as we speak!

smart man...

That is almost certainly the monkeys at the dealership overtightening. They only go to 20 lbs if I recall.

25lbs i believe... but tomatoes tomato... u are right damn dealership monkeys lol

Things just got real...

Before pic on the PnP

Those torx are a bitch, bended my torx socket twice.

while you are tearing the engine apart, clean the injectors it will improve your performance and gas consumption.

So I got the cylinders wrong on the valve cleaning. Poured B12 into what I thought was 2 and 4 on TDC. I put a dow into the spark plug holes because it looked like all three valves were closed two outside were down and two inside where up. Poured B12 and it leaked down on the left two valves filled 1/4 the way.

Its a dry combustible right? Anything I need to do to fix or correct, a touch of oil?

hmmmm i would not run it if u filled those cylinders i would drain ur oil and try again...

Unless you're built the 3076r is a snoozer until you get high in the RPM's. Personally I would have stuck with a more response torquey turbo, especially with AWD.

EWG's are fun though.

I was just thinking that. Going to use the walnut media tomorrow and clean the valves. I will need to get more b12 for cylinders 1 and 3 and let them soak for another hour.

I just wanted to make sure there wasn't anything terrible going to happen I wasnt thinking about. In reality, you suck seafoam through the combustion chambers and the only difference is that it contains oil, b12 is dry.

ya i wouldnt let it sit too long still... i would drain and retry with b12 or skip all together like u said and use crushed walnut media.

Yeah, I will probably pick up another long block to build up next year and flex the most from the 3076. My goal is to sit somewhere between 350-400. Will run an e85 blend and/or maybe meth.

E85 and meth, or 5th port, will be your best bet of getting close to 400whp.

With your goals being 350-400hp I would have gone with a smaller turbo, as suggested above. It would give you another 5-800+rpms to play with. I spool around 3k rpms. Most 3076s spool around 3800 if I recall correctly. That said Im pushing my beaner above 380awhp with a simple meth system. Just something to think about since your balls deep anyways.

And cleaning my valves was, hands down, one of the very best things i've ever done for my car. Maintenance wise, without a doubt. B12 it, pick the ever loving shit out of it with the b12 in there, suck it out, and then walnut blast it into oblivious. I sandblasted my face the first time; it blasted out of the cylinder and right into my face. Good times.

I get to around 30 PS about 3800 gt3076r, 390 awhp with Meth and e30.
I do need fine tuned though, I'm currently self tuned. Also maxing my 3" maf need 3.5 plus.

At least I didnt fail on the PnP!

Glad to see that the freektuned 3.5" intake works perfectly with the stock battery tray and battery. All I had to do was flips the battery tray around and drill a hole in the support bracket with a 7/16 "drill bit and use the anchor point on the right side of the battery. Seems to be very sturdy.

I had to get my car put back together after installing the injector seals, cleaning the valves, and installing some other components. I'll get it fired up after a base tune from Justin to make sure I didn't fail at anything else before installing the turbo next week.

Hmmm u0100 connection to ECU? Car won't start.

Double check all your connections. It's likely something stupid left disconnected. Does it even try to turn?

Nope not turning. I have the erg and vtcs unplugged but l I figured Justin would have eliminated those in the tune. Do I need to do something with those? I can't troubleshoot till tomorrow got to slang beers to waiting patrons!

Try reflashing your tune.

Did you install a new map sensor? I bumped my starter connection when I did this (google it) and it took us a while to figure out. @kevdog; @El Beaner; were there. Someone jiggled the starter connection while I turned the car over.

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...-issue-144156/

So I tapped the connection and now it finally turns over but all its going is cranking. I checked the hpfp ground since I missed that last time but nothing. No check engine codes, not really sure what to do next

I checked the plugs, I thought maybe the cylinders were flooded from the leaked b12 but they look clean and dry.

did u prime the fuel pump? did u prime the turbo?