Stock Motor GT2871R

[forcedinduktion]

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...st-leak-81055/

[Swinger13]

So basically I need a new IM gasket. Part of this is because my fail not using proper torque specs but now I know the importance of torque specs. But I would part blame SURE for their lack of torque specs for these gaskets.

Here is the spacer that sits on the bottom mounting bolt all mangled up. I didn't even torque it tight. It just wouldn't tighten...that's the last thing I buy from SURE.

image-4101222398.jpg

I think it's because of this spacer not holding the thickness and the torque it should be holding is what caused the manifold to sit on a very small angle at the runners thus seeping air out of the top And not the bottom........aaaaaand gasket is in the trash.

[madspd6]

i have a jbr one i can sell yous... when i get home in 2 weeks

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by madspd6 i have a jbr one i can sell yous... when i get home in 2 weeks

is it brand new?

[shadesofgray19]

You should have left off that bottom bolt on the IM. It won't hurt not having that and the two side bolt from the fuel rail protector plate thingy.

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by shadesofgray19 You should have left off that bottom bolt on the IM. It won't hurt not having that and the two side bolt from the fuel rail protector plate thingy.

I think if I were to do that again I would use a metal washer the same thickness as the gasket.

Also I think the fuel rail bracket (if the TIG is installed properly) offsets the bolt holes by an 1/8th of an inch so you cannot bolt on the side mounting positions. Same goes with the EGR tube, once you put on a TIG it offset's just enough that you cannot install it properly.

If worst comes to worst, I'll just go with OEM intake manifold gasket. My throttle body gasket it holding fine at least...

[Tabasco69]

I've done it in the past, a good smoke machine cost about 1500-2000, uses heated mineral oil to produce the smoke, some shop add a UV dye, that way even if you do not see the smoke after you shut the engine, take a black light and run it around all of the flanges etc.... the dye will glow under the black light if it passes through a leak point.

Well I'm going to shut up about this, enough time spent on the subject, good luck getting it all straightened out Swinger

[Swinger13]

Ok.

I thought about it long and hard and the gasket was an installer error. Actually...

The little o-ring spacer that was mangled was installed between the seat on the bolt and the manifold where I should have put it on between the manifold and the block...

fuuuuuck....and that would REALLY explain why I had a leak...

[Tabasco69]

It is always a good thing when you are able to find the problem, because then you know it is fixed.

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by Tabasco69 It is always a good thing when you are able to find the problem, because then you know it is fixed.

Yes....i do all of this for the learning experience. It's been a bucketlist thing to build a car and learn about them. I know there's so much for me to comprehend but I feel like an expert on my car now.

[Bob-o]

When's the turbo going in Swinger?

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by Bob-o When's the turbo going in Swinger?

I ordered the helihose so I can route the BPV with ease to inlet. That's the only thing I'm really waiting for. Next week or two for sure I'd say...

[Swinger13]

alrighty guys

I replaced the corksport hose that comes with their OCC. I don't trust it; I feel it tears too easy with hose clamps so I got some flexible silicone heater hose instead. So far I like the hose and it seems to seal better.
image-3134186203.jpgimage-1222550083.jpgimage-1275442076.jpg




I'm also going to vent my valve cover instead.
image-3539922023.jpg



NOW...for the time being I installed an OEM intake manifold gasket to run my car. Also it is to see if my idea was right on why I had a big leak due to the manifold not sitting flush with the head.

I did a boost leak test after properly torquing the bolts
- IM 13-16 ft/lbs
- TB 10 ft/lbs

and WALLA!!! no leaks!!! I actually did hear a hissing sound but that was from the coupler of the boost leak tester itself. Now to put everything back together lol. I'm in the middle of doing my rear diff mounts so It'll be a couple days before she's back on the road (I hope)...

[MS6_Newb]

There are multiple ways to find leaks. One way is the propane like mentioned. This method works great and not dangerous as long as you don't smoke near it. Second is go buy a cigar, not cigarrete, and light it. Then put it in the intake with the car off. Put your hand over the filter side of the intake to control smoke direction but also letting air in. You can also blow in the intake to direct smoke. This is the poor mans smoke machine.

[MS6_Newb]

Sorry for the double post but don't vent the valve cover. This allows unmetered air into the intake. In others words you are creating a giant vacuum leak.

What I was planning on doing with my catch can is Y-ing the vavle cover and PCV together by the catch can intake. Then getting 2 check valves set in opposite directions where one is connected to the intake and the other to the manifold. I was aldo thinking of hooking up a vacuum guage somewhere in there on the catch can. I have research a lot and understand that you want constant vacuum on the block. My method I believe does that. Correct me if I'm wrong though.

[Voltwings]

Originally Posted by MS6_Newb Sorry for the double post but don't vent the valve cover. This allows unmetered air into the intake. In others words you are creating a giant vacuum leak.

As long as you have the port on your intake that goes to the VC blocked off you can vent the valve cover with 0 issues.

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by Voltwings As long as you have the port on your intake that goes to the VC blocked off you can vent the valve cover with 0 issues.

Hence the username MS6_NEWB lol...not trying to be a dick but with that username I had to hehe.

[Voltwings]

Originally Posted by Swinger13 Hence the username MS6_NEWB lol...not trying to be a dick but with that username I had to hehe.

lol he was half right, i'll give him some credit , just making sure everyones on the same page though. At any rate i'm justs trolling your build because i like to see what other people do. Carry on.

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by Voltwings lol he was half right, i'll give him some credit , just making sure everyones on the same page though. At any rate i'm justs trolling your build because i like to see what other people do. Carry on.

He's right if you leave the port open on the intake/inlet but you'd have to be pretty dumb to do that.....buuuuut my HTP inlet has a plug for it

[MS6_Newb]

If research serves me right, at idle the car is sucking throught the PVC. Now with the breather being there it is no longer creating a vacuum in the block but sucking through the breather. This air is no longer metered and the ECU doesn't know about it. In turn you get a lean condition and a giant vacuum leak. You would have to put a check valve between the valve cover and breather. This way the valve is closed at idle and you no longer have a vacuum leak and at boost it opens and lets off pressure. In any case you want a vacuum so seat your rings, get rid of blow by, and to drain/suck the oil back into the pan so the pump can recirculate it. Blow-by is the main issue with the speeds as I read. What will happen is oil will blow out of the valve cover under boost and it will look disgusting and make a mess. You have the option of not listening but I'm pretty sure that will change it sooner or later. I'm just trying to share and help out.

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by MS6_Newb If research serves me right, at idle the car is sucking throught the PVC. Now with the breather being there it is no longer creating a vacuum in the block but sucking through the breather. This air is no longer metered and the ECU doesn't know about it. In turn you get a lean condition and a giant vacuum leak. You would have to put a check valve between the valve cover and breather. This way the valve is closed at idle and you no longer have a vacuum leak and at boost it opens and lets off pressure. In any case you want a vacuum so seat your rings, get rid of blow by, and to drain/suck the oil back into the pan so the pump can recirculate it. Blow-by is the main issue with the speeds as I read. What will happen is oil will blow out of the valve cover under boost and it will look disgusting and make a mess. You have the option of not listening but I'm pretty sure that will change it sooner or later. I'm just trying to share and help out.

Oh I appreciate your feedback, everyone's for that fact (with a little banter on the side because it's the MSF way hehe). I'd like to hear feedback from others, especially with OCC'S I like to find the best set up that keeps shit out of the whole intake tract completely.

I started a thread on OCC set ups to figure out what people are doing and discuss idea's, I'm gonna bump it again and see what happens...

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...an-set-137538/

[Mistersix]

Yay for MS6 love. Staying tuned for results.

[Swinger13]

I updated the thread (the link) in my previous post. Since we're on the topic of OCC's I thought of a new idea.

let me know what you guys think of this set up!!!

EDIT: ignore this post/picture. It's full of fail. This would boost leak like a mother fucker.

[Swinger13]

Out with the old
image-261408441.jpg




In with the new
image-900225926.jpg

[MS6_Newb]

I didn't want to come off as rude but I did the hole fliter on valve cover thing and it turns nasty. Nice mounts but my I suggest that you have at least 2 other people helping you. I did these and the factory traction bar rubs one of these and is a PITA to bolt back in. Also don't be afraid to use force. After all said and done these were well worth the fight especially since my factory ones rubber falling out.

The OCC has me thinking as well. I've been researching best possible routing for 2 months now. With all this researching I have learned that the engine wants vacuum all the time in the block. You could search krankvents. The theory behind krank vents is to put check valves on the VC and PVC so there is constant vacuum. With this theory you can add a OCC routed like your diagram with the changes being instead of a filter it goes to the intake and an extra check valve gets put in by the IM.

I would also like input on OCC route. Keeping an eye on this thread. Keep it up.

[speedms6]

as mentioned above i have the krankvent, one wore out after about 1.5-2 years. I put another on because it is running perfectly and my car actually smokes if i dont have one on but is completely cured with it on.

On the valve cover vent it goes Valve Cover -> Krankvent -> breather filter

on the crankcase side: Crankcase -> stock pcv -> OCC( @Damond Motorsports; ) -> the check valve that comes with the occ kit -> intake manifold

[Voltwings]

Originally Posted by MS6_Newb If research serves me right, at idle the car is sucking throught the PVC. Now with the breather being there it is no longer creating a vacuum in the block but sucking through the breather. This air is no longer metered and the ECU doesn't know about it. In turn you get a lean condition and a giant vacuum leak. You would have to put a check valve between the valve cover and breather. This way the valve is closed at idle and you no longer have a vacuum leak and at boost it opens and lets off pressure. In any case you want a vacuum so seat your rings, get rid of blow by, and to drain/suck the oil back into the pan so the pump can recirculate it. Blow-by is the main issue with the speeds as I read. What will happen is oil will blow out of the valve cover under boost and it will look disgusting and make a mess. You have the option of not listening but I'm pretty sure that will change it sooner or later. I'm just trying to share and help out.

Close but not quite, the car does not suck through the PCV, the vacuum from the intake manifold pulls air out of the crankcase through the PCV (unless thats what you meant and i misunderstood). The reason there is a check valve is to keep boost from your intake manifold entering your crankcase and basically applying pressure under your pistons.

Our cars have a two part breather system stock, the IM pulling vacuum on the crankcase and the inlet pipe pulling vacuum on the VC. Blow by is a result of air being where it is not supposed to be, so it is not a problem to vent it, it will not cause a lean condition. I have been on a vented can for over a year now AND have a breather filter on my oil cap and my fuel trims are within 2%.

As long as the factory vacuum ports are blocked on the IM and the inlet pipe, you will not suck in unmetered air, and not have a vacuum leak. I attached my PCV and VC to a vented can and have had no issues, granted i will be installing a second can soon with a series of CV's to still pull vacuum during DD.

[Swinger13]

Sooo the mounts lol...

BY FAR the hardest install I've done. Not done yet. I think I would enjoy more giving birth to a piss off porcupine. I have the mount bolted to the diff but I can't for my life push the diff back up even with help of the car jack.

Any hints???

[dot584]

I dropped the rear subframe and it was super easy. It's only like eight bolts, then get your jack and put it under the diff with a piece of wood and have your friends help align the whole subframe as you Jack it into place. With the subframe dropped you can do all the mount and swaybar installations easily. I always recommend this method, after doing it with one helper I figure I could do it again in one day the next time.

Sent from my Incredible 2 using Tapatalk 2

[Swinger13]

UPDATE

I'm getting closer with the rear differential mount. I have one bolt threaded throught the bushing, I kinda have the other side lined up but not threading yet and that's as far as I got until I threw in the towel for tonight. This shows that this job CAN be done without lowering the sub-frame, but it's also the most stupid way as well. Even with help from my brother we struggled. Once this is in it's staying put lol.

UPDATE

Still at er...sway bar re-mounted....

[Swinger13]

Ok so I'm just in the middle of putting everything back together as the mounts are INSTALLED!!!!

By far the hardest thing I've done lol. I know some people have done this by completely removing the subframe but I did not know how well that would go because I was only on jackstands so it's not like I had all the room to work with either. That being said, I did do this install the the subframe in place.

So all went well with the removal of everything and the front differential mount. The rear was the big bitch here. I removed it with no and decided to let the diff hang when the mounts were off. Because I decided to let the diff drop, 2 of the wires that go to one of the harness clips completely ripped out on me and re-installing the diff through muscles and a jack turned out to be the biggest hurdle for me. With help from my brother I was able to get the rear diff bushings in the bracket's but it took me FOREVER to line up and thread the bolt holes, hours and hours to get the diff lifted and lined up.

So I got the rear diff mounted and bolted in eventually and you can let it hang like that as the rear casing just sits on the subframe while giving you enough access to do the front differential mount. To make the rear diff install easier I completely removed the sway bar as it interfered in my 1 foot of space I had to work with; so I had to put it back in (this is where it got interesting). I had no problem getting the sway bar over the first section of the differential but I had trouble getting it up over the rear end of the diff as there was not enough space between the subframe and the edge on the differential (indicated by the red lines) I ended up taking a file to that area and filed it down to the outline (in yellow) to make room for the sway bar.

Next was the wires but this was nothing big; it just annoyed me. I put them together with butt connectors and taped it up. I used the sharper pointed crimper to crimp the connector (red circle).

[Swinger13]

Ok guys I'm back on the road now and running strong. AFR's are stable cruising and at idle; fuel trims are stable as well. For now I'm running a vented valve cover with a standard OCC set up with the PCV system. I'm surprised that I don't notice any additional vibes from the BSD and diff mounts. A good thing I guess!!! I'll take logs later maybe. Numbers look solid.

Waiting on a few more things for my turbo to go in.

Stay tuned........for boost

[madspd6]

did you double check oil levels yet?

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by madspd6 did you double check oil levels yet?

I checked it today and when Started it before I found the boost leak and no leaks. I'll be checking every day for the next week but I havent seen leaks yet.

[madspd6]

oh im not worried about leaks, i know you gots skills. im just worried you got into a routine like me, you bux X oil which is a 4.7 or whatever L bottle and you leave "This" amount haha.

and end up under filling it. haha. a buddy of mine asked me to do an oil change for him, and he bought what was on sale, usually gets the 4.4's but bought a 5.X... so he filled it to where he usually does and i check it and the dipstick is like an inch up from max haha.

remember im around for tuning help if you want/need any. i only charge beer...

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by madspd6 oh im not worried about leaks, i know you gots skills. im just worried you got into a routine like me, you bux X oil which is a 4.7 or whatever L bottle and you leave "This" amount haha. and end up under filling it. haha. a buddy of mine asked me to do an oil change for him, and he bought what was on sale, usually gets the 4.4's but bought a 5.X... so he filled it to where he usually does and i check it and the dipstick is like an inch up from max haha. remember im around for tuning help if you want/need any. i only charge beer...

Beer....mmmmm.....

But no I bought an extra quart for safety. I ended up using all if it and it reads full to half way on the dip stick.

EDIT: @madspd6; I also have gotten a new laptop as of recent so no more connection issues...

[Swinger13]

Sooo I'm driving home from work and my car suddenly dies. WTF. I pull over, put my hazards on and find that my car turns over perfect but instantly dies without the foot on the gas. No air is getting to the motor so this has got to be a big leak lol...













I found this.

image-1095626389.jpg

Yes this is a corksport catch can and the fucking top blew off...

@Bob-o; you sold me this one lol.

[lilred]

Man I just saw the first line on tapatalk and thought zzb!

Glad it was an easy to find/fix solution.

tapafuck

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by lilred Man I just saw the first line on tapatalk and thought zzb! Glad it was an easy to find/fix solution. tapafuck

I was a bit scared too lol. But the turn over test made me relieved. No metal blender sounds knock on wood...

[madspd6]

did you forget to put the pcv back in? haha