Stock Motor GT2871R

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by madspd6 did you forget to put the pcv back in? haha

Oops I forgot the picture. Let me add that in here

Edit nvm its there.

Here it is again

image-1407756510.jpg

[IamJamen]

There's a whole thread in the CorkSport section about their v1 OCC fails. CS exchanged my early OCC for their updated unit which now features a welded top and no glue.

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by IamJamen There's a whole thread in the CorkSport section about their v1 OCC fails. CS exchanged my early OCC for their updated unit which now features a welded top and no glue.

Yeah I heard about that. If I were to re do my OCC set up again with this catch can, I wouldn't connect from the PCV -> OCC -> IM.

It would be PCV -> OCC -> Turbo Inlet.

This way there would be a constant vacuum and no boost to blow ANY catch can.

I will be hammering corksport about this...

[IamJamen]

CS recommends PCV & VC to a T connector > OCC > TIP with their kit which is the way I have it set up. Here are my last two drains:

[Bob-o]

Holy shit!! The top for real blew out.

Do you know what would have caused that? You should contact CS and see what they say

[Dmurray06]

Originally Posted by IamJamen CS recommends PCV & VC to a T connector > OCC > TIP with their kit which is the way I have it set up. Here are the my last two drains:

How many miles?

[IamJamen]

Originally Posted by Dmurray06 How many miles?

500 and 600.

[Dmurray06]

Originally Posted by IamJamen 500 and 600.

Jesus...that's a lot for such few miles. Yea @Swinger13; I had the first version OCC BNIB. Emailed Corksport, and they are exchanging it straight across for the welded version. 0 cost to me.

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by Bob-o Holy shit!! The top for real blew out. Do you know what would have caused that? You should contact CS and see what they say

just boost lol. The lid is only held down with glue and the lid doesn't appear to be cracked or anything. Under vacuum it's fine because in theory it should be holding the top down.

I be boostin...

but hey I'm glad this is the problem and not my motor; there is always worse things that can happen...

[IamJamen]

Originally Posted by Dmurray06 Jesus...that's a lot for such miles.

Those are the only times I have drained the can. Besides that, I think Michigan winter and my short commute have something to do with it.

Originally Posted by Swinger13 just boost lol. The lid is only held down with glue and the lid doesn't appear to be cracked or anything. Under vacuum it's fine because in theory it should be holding the top down. I be boostin... but hey I'm glad this is the problem and not my motor; there is always worse things that can happen...

Don't tell CS that you didn't have a check valve between your OCC and intake manifold. They could cite improper installation and void your waranty.

[Bob-o]

Originally Posted by Swinger13 just boost lol. The lid is only held down with glue and the lid doesn't appear to be cracked or anything. Under vacuum it's fine because in theory it should be holding the top down. I be boostin... but hey I'm glad this is the problem and not my motor; there is always worse things that can happen...

Thats a good way to look at things, and its a very good thing this was the issue and not your motor itself. Hopefully this will be remedied soon, and your current can gets replaced with something a little stronger

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by IamJamen Those are the only times I have drained the can. Besides that, I think Michigan winter and my short commute have something to do with it. Don't tell CS that you didn't have a check valve between your OCC and intake manifold. They could cite improper installation and void your waranty.

so you assume I didn't have it on? you're not helping my case lol

[AustinK]

Hey swinger, thought I would drop in and check out the build, looks fantastic!

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by Austin@Corksport Hey swinger, thought I would drop in and check out the build, looks fantastic!

Thanks. So far everything has been successful (other than the OCC but that's nothing to whine about).

[Swinger13]

Ok I have all the pieces now for the turbo install. Got the helihose I need to route the BPV to the inlet.

I'm so confused as to what is needed for putting in the turbo as far as oil and coolant lines go. I was under the impression that you can use the factory lines but I'm not sure to be honest.

Can anyone give me more information on this? I would like to use the factory lines lol...
@Voltwings; @Lex; @06Speed6; @PartiAudiMazdarati; <----users that have given me positive feedback/suggestions in this thread (thank you)...

[Voltwings]

You use the factory oil feed but need a new banjo bolt for it, as well as a new oil return. You use one factory coolant line ... I believe the return, but need a new feed. You need a new coolant line that comes off the egr box, whichever that is, feed or return. Edge will sell you the kit for like $200.

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by Voltwings You use the factory oil feed but need a new banjo bolt for it, as well as a new oil return. You use one factory coolant line ... I believe the return, but need a new feed. You need a new coolant line that comes off the egr box, whichever that is, feed or return. Edge will sell you the kit for like $200.

My turbo comes with banjo bolts. Here's some pics to make sure these are the right ones...

The red circle is the oil feed and the green is the coolant (feed/return)?
oil and coolant ports on turbo.jpg

The coolant bolt(s) and line
Coolant line.JPGCoolant banjo bolts....JPG

The oil drain, feed, banjo bolt for the feed, and gasket for the drain.
Gasket.JPGOil drain.JPGOil feed banjo bolt.JPGOil feed port.JPG


So what do I need??? lol

[Voltwings]

Originally Posted by Swinger13 My turbo comes with banjo bolts. Here's some pics to make sure these are the right ones... The red circle is the oil feed and the green is the coolant (feed/return)? Attachment 99297 The coolant bolt(s) and line Attachment 99295Attachment 99296 The oil drain, feed, banjo bolt for the feed, and gasket for the drain. Attachment 99301Attachment 99300Attachment 99299Attachment 99298 So what do I need??? lol

Looks like you have everything sir, slap that bitch on!

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by Voltwings Looks like you have everything sir, slap that bitch on!

I hope you're right lol. It's just so misleading when everyone else says you need this and that on top of your turbo even though on the ATP site (and from common knowledge) that this turbo is a direct bolt on piece.

[Voltwings]

Originally Posted by Swinger13 I hope you're right lol. It's just so misleading when everyone else says you need this and that on top of your turbo even though on the ATP site (and from common knowledge) that this turbo is a direct bolt on piece.

I've you've been reading the BNR install threads that might be what's throwing you off. I installed my turbo with nothing other than what came in the box.

[Fail_6]

I used the factory lines to an extent, but had to modify a couple. The coolant feed (line connecting to EGR) was an aftermarket braided piece that extends from the rear of the turbo to the connection on the egr.

The oil feed and the coolant return just need to be bent into place. Be VERY careful with the oil feed though, it takes some slight effort to bend, but you don't want to give too much effort and break it.

Oil return will be the biggest bitch, I had to unbolt from the block, and manually cut the top portion that fit the K04 and hose clamp on the return that fit the turbo. Sounds jerry rigged, but in practice, it's worked without issue 10k+ daily driving, several hundred pulls and even a dyno or two.

Turbo should've came with the banjo bolts as well, though you can order one if necessary for I believe under $10

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by PartiAudiMazdarati I used the factory lines to an extent, but had to modify a couple. The coolant feed (line connecting to EGR) was an aftermarket braided piece that extends from the rear of the turbo to the connection on the egr. The oil feed and the coolant return just need to be bent into place. Be VERY careful with the oil feed though, it takes some slight effort to bend, but you don't want to give too much effort and break it. Oil return will be the biggest bitch, I had to unbolt from the block, and manually cut the top portion that fit the K04 and hose clamp on the return that fit the turbo. Sounds jerry rigged, but in practice, it's worked without issue 10k+ daily driving, several hundred pulls and even a dyno or two. Turbo should've came with the banjo bolts as well, though you can order one if necessary for I believe under $10

I have all the banjo bolts. The coolant feed line I have. So it sounds like I'll be able to survive. There's an auto parts store in town that I'd be able to grt that stuff if need be so I should be good.

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by Swinger13 Ok I have all the pieces now for the turbo install. Got the helihose I need to route the BPV to the inlet. I'm so confused as to what is needed for putting in the turbo as far as oil and coolant lines go. I was under the impression that you can use the factory lines but I'm not sure to be honest. Can anyone give me more information on this? I would like to use the factory lines lol... @Voltwings; @Lex; @06Speed6; @PartiAudiMazdarati; <----users that have given me positive feedback/suggestions in this thread (thank you)...

Ok those with a big turbo...hows the easiest was to put this thing in as far as making room goes (removing the manifold, hoses, downpipe, etc...)?

[chuckms6]

Originally Posted by Swinger13 Ok those with a big turbo...hows the easiest was to put this thing in as far as making room goes (removing the manifold, hoses, downpipe, etc...)?

Remove the cowl

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

[Tabasco69]

they fucking GLUED the occ lid on?....wtf a small pressure spike could and evidently would blow the top off..,.I'm sorry but this is just common sense, it is not rocket science.....who ever call it was at CS to do that should no longer have a job.

[chuckms6]

Originally Posted by Tabasco69 they fucking GLUED the occ lid on?....wtf a small pressure spike could and evidently would blow the top off..,.I'm sorry but this is just common sense, it is not rocket science.....who ever call it was at CS to do that should no longer have a job.

The way the instructions had it installed it should never see pressure. A quality control issue allowed the glue to accumulate in the ports and allow it to build pressure and blow the top off. They are all recalled and welded now

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by chuckms6 The way the instructions had it installed it should never see pressure. A quality control issue allowed the glue to accumulate in the ports and allow it to build pressure and blow the top off. They are all recalled and welded now Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

New can is on the way

[Swinger13]

UPDATE.

I did get my catch can from corksport (not yet installed but I plan to today or tomorrow).

Also, I ordered a set of AWR motor mounts from protege garage and shipping is taking ridiculously long. The order history on their website said the package shipped on march 4th. I emailed ken at PG, got the tracking info and found that the package was only electronically processed on MARCH 19TH!!!! It's march 30th now and I still do not have it here; shipping was 75 bucks too lol. I ended up bitching and got my shipping costs refunded

On a brighter side, I did help @Bob-o; install his gtx3071R EWG on Thursday and Friday. I now have a great understanding as to what will be needed to drop in my gt2871r. ALL the factory feed lines should work and I know how to tweak the lines properly if need be. We ended up tweaking the coolant drain (the one that routes into the coolant hose and not the EGR. We basically turned the line around so the end of the hardline was almost hitting the block and bent it under heat to point straight down.


Comparison
image-3156780573.jpg


The underside and the ghetto rigged coolant line lol. Just kidding it actually looks really solid and absolutely no leaks.
image-4022155499.jpg


All feed/drain lines are in
image-4279988583.jpg


All systems go !!!!
image-2564897846.jpg

[Swinger13]

Okay so I installed the new catch can routing back to my intake and all is well

Also decided to dip my wheels as the original rattle can paint job was chipping and fading
IMG_0881.JPGIMG_0882.JPG

Now I also looked under my car around the turbo area and realized that I won't be able to do anything there because my damn transfer case is in the way. Kinda thought about it and I could make more room if I completely remove the downpipe and disconnect the driveshaft.

Anyone that has done an ms6 BT swap chime in on this??? @PartiAudiMazdarati; how did you work around doing the swap and getting to the lines going to the turbo? I my first idea was to just disconnect a lot of the hoses around the driver side of the turbo, exhaust manifold removal, and downpipe removal as well.

[Fail_6]

Originally Posted by Swinger13 Okay so I installed the new catch can routing back to my intake and all is well Also decided to dip my wheels as the original rattle can paint job was chipping and fading Attachment 101506Attachment 101507 Now I also looked under my car around the turbo area and realized that I won't be able to do anything there because my damn transfer case is in the way. Kinda thought about it and I could make more room if I completely remove the downpipe and disconnect the driveshaft. Anyone that has done an ms6 BT swap chime in on this??? @PartiAudiMazdarati; how did you work around doing the swap and getting to the lines going to the turbo? I my first idea was to just disconnect a lot of the hoses around the driver side of the turbo, exhaust manifold removal, and downpipe removal as well.

I disconnected the motor mount, and jacked up the engine. Allows you to more freely move the motor, specifically forward and back, which will come in handy when mounting turbo to the mani. I did not have to disconnect the driveshaft though; only took out the dp. That will give you more than enough room to work. Driveshaft is only in the way if you're trying to direct a dump tube for a wastegate or something. Disconnect the o2 sensors and zip tie them so they don't get damaged, and you should have a large path of space looking straight down through the engine to the ground.

1 tip is to mount the oil return first. Make sure it's postioned properly. If not, it will be damn near impossible to line it up straight, and then mount the turbo to the mani, and the mani to the block. Once the oil return and feed is done, the coolant lines are relatively flexible (in my case) so shouldn't be too much work. Also drain the coolant fluid. Make your life easier. Check my thread if necessary, there's some pics


http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...nstall-114544/

[Mistersix]

Didn't get to read your thread yet parti. Does one have to remove the mani to swap in a BNR?

[IamJamen]

Originally Posted by Mistersix Didn't get to read your thread yet parti. Does one have to remove the mani to swap in a BNR?

Nope, @TiGraySpeed6 installed his BNRs3 without taking out his exhaust manifold.

Install notes from TiGraySpeed6

[TiGraySpeed6]

Yup, left the IM in place, and if I had to do it all over again I'd still leave it in place.

Very do-able with the IM still in.

[Fail_6]

Originally Posted by Mistersix Didn't get to read your thread yet parti. Does one have to remove the mani to swap in a BNR?

Correct, mani removal is not needed sir :-)

[Mistersix]

Awesome-ness. Thats one less gasket to buy.

[Swinger13]

Gots me motor mounts! AWR 88 duro all the way around. That's how you shake dat ass...
image-4007867844.jpg

Now I was dissapointed with the rear motor mount a little. When you receive something in the mail you buy brand new you expect it to look good. There were deep scratches/paint chips on it BNIB. Not that this will affect anything but WTF?
image-3092507671.jpg

On a side note, i did notice that the holes for the bolts are 2 different inner diameters. I cant be 100 percent but I think both bolts are the same? Can someone comment on this? @Mistersix; I see you have AWR's in you sig....

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by PartiAudiMazdarati Correct, mani removal is not needed sir :-)

Even with a GT28?

[madspd6]

Originally Posted by Swinger13 Even with a GT28?

gt28 is about bnr size. it could be done but i personally think more room is a good thing. Who knows, he might be really small... perhaps a midget.

[Mistersix]

@Swinger13; If i recall correctly they indeed are different size's. It only goes in one way so there's no way to fuck it up. But this was over 5 years ago when i installed mine so... grain of salt, if you will.

[madspd6]

yeah the bolt to the car is smaller then the bolt to the motor.