SweBuild [SP63 Engine GTX3076 EWG]

[Jackis]

What is that nice white car behind yours one?

[SpeedRebirth]

I knew the only feedback I would get would be about the other car lol.
Never meet the owner because he's never there but I heard it was quite a beast (6-700hp) before he was infected with "I'm-just-gonna-fix-this-hose-then-ends-up-tearing-down-the-whole-car" disease. It's an Audi, that's about how much I know about it lol

I'm renting the garage from msf member @cocoanton;

[cocoanton]

Originally Posted by Jackis What is that nice white car behind yours one?

It's a friends Audi S2 previously built for street-race with 555awhp. Custom built coilovers from sellholm, radiator in the back, fully lightened with plastic doors and windows. It ate rear axles for lunch, think we went through five in one season. That meant pushing that beast with locked diffs around from the road to hide it from cops a few times. Then it broke a front shock tower, shock and fender after testing new rear swaybar on wet road. The car was parted out and meant to be scrapped. But he kept the chassi and then his girlfriend decided she needed a track-car, so now it's slowly being put together again. bit by bit.

Originally Posted by SpeedRebirth before he was infected with "I'm-just-gonna-fix-this-hose-then-ends-up-tearing-down-the-whole-car" disease.

Thats my RX-7 your thinking about , loosing my drivers license and "just going to fix this and then to that since I'm getting the parts soon" ended up bringing the project to a complete standstill the last 7years. Hoping it's done when my youngest daughter turn 18, gives me 14 years to complete it, should be possible

[Jackis]

Hiding from cops lol, it was totally street unlegal, right?
And whats up with your driving license?

OP, sorry for hijacking your thread, but that should be a clear sign for you to put the motor in så snart som möjligt!

[cocoanton]

Originally Posted by Jackis Hiding from cops lol, it was totally street unlegal, right?

Totally, too much mods to even pay someone to get it through

Originally Posted by Jackis And whats up with your driving license?

Oh you know, it's an on and off relationship, the need for speed brings us together, and the speed + is what drives us apart. Easy come easy go!

[SpeedRebirth]

I think it's only the driverside axle left to remove and then it's engine removal time
Mod funds are quite low so it's going to take a while before I can order the clutch and injector seals so that I can actually install the new engine. In the meantime I will try to remove as much rust as possible from subframe and suspension components. Plan is to paint it to make it look real good. There's a lot I can do/fix this winter which is nice

[SpeedRebirth]

Removed the driverside axle (top one in picture) but it separated in the cv joint closest to the knuckle (used aviator79 how to). So had to remove knuckle and grab the inside of the axle and jank it out, took a while but it worked.

Would've gone smoother/easier if the subframe was disconnected but I need it in place so that I can put a jack under it and roll the car forward to get access to the engine crane which is mounted on the wall and swings out.

[SpeedRebirth]

For the first time ever I have removed an engine from a car and it went perfect! (Ali pictured)



Had help from my friend Ali who also has an exact copy of my SP63 engine, only difference is the valve cover color. Alot of epicness in one picture


Time to swap things over but I think it's time for a new belt pulley, there's some play in it, same with the belt tensioner. Why put old stuff on a new engine right

[SpeedRebirth]

Continued removing parts from the old motor to get an idea of what gaskets and o-rings need to be replaced now that black friday sale is on.

Water pump on its way out. There's some kind of white sealant on the mating surface, don't know if that needs replacing?



Thermostat, New gasket might be a good idea even though it looks ok



Water outlet, need new gasket



Fuel rail and injectors removed. I avoided disconnecting the hardline and plastic line to save me some trouble in case a clip or o-ring would break. Was easy to remove as is



Starter removed



PTO disconnected, was easier than I thought



And lastly the gearbox is out!!



Next up is oil filter+housing, HPFP and inspect the clutch to see why it slipped (cause torque!!)

[Jackis]

Sooooo... you are not going to enter winter hibernation mode, aren't you?

Nice work! Get that fresh motor in!

[SpeedRebirth]

Thanks!

Im going to keep fighting the whole winter and spring to make this an awesome racecar in sleeper disguise. There's alot of work needed to make this happen. Alot of parts still need to be purchased.

Some of them are:
CS injector seals
South Bend Stage 3 Endurance
Exhaust gasket
Thermostat/Water outlet/Oil filter/Injector/ <--- gaskets
3,5 Bar sensor
Coilovers
CS pulleys
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Release Bearing
PI Kit

A total of more than 4k :p

[SpeedRebirth]

Made two purchases this weekend, taking advantage of black friday deal at @EdgeAutosport.com; and double points at @CorkSport;

From Corksport:
CS Injector Seals
CS Aluminum Pulley Set

Total: $354 after I used my cs points


From Edge:
Bosch 3.5 Bar TMap Map Sensor
Kozmic Oil Feed Line Kit Garrett
NGK Iridium IX Spark Plug x4
Mazda OEM Clutch Slave Cylinder
Mazda OEM Release Bearing
Mazda OEM Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Mazda OEM Exhaust Manifold Nut x5
Mazda OEM HPFP Bolts x3
Mazda OEM Injector Gromet x4
Mazda OEM Injector O-Ring x4
Mazda OEM Oil Filter Housing Gasket
Mazda OEM Thermostat Unit Gasket
Mazda OEM Water Outlet Gasket
Mazda OEM PCV Valve
Mazda OEM Prop Shaft Bolt MS6 x4
Mazda OEM Propshaft Nut MS6 x4
Mazda OEM Front Lateral Link REAR x2

Total: $605 after all discounts

And it's christmas soon... think I need to slow down before my bank account kills me

[SpeedRebirth]

Recieved a nice little package today
CS Injector Seals and CS Pulley Set




Fits perfectly on the injector



Looks real nice now!

[irissanen]

Hi there,

Once you remove the PTO, do you loose any oil (PTO or transmission)? Let's assume that otherwise it's a fully functional car. Just thinking about my upcoming CS turbo install. Removing the PTO would free up so much space below.

[SpeedRebirth]

Originally Posted by irissanen Hi there, Once you remove the PTO, do you loose any oil (PTO or transmission)? Let's assume that otherwise it's a fully functional car. Just thinking about my upcoming CS turbo install. Removing the PTO would free up so much space below.

There would be oil coming out when the transer case is removed yes, but that's not the way to install a turbo on our cars. Instead, remove the plastic and metal cowl in front of the windscreen. THAT will free up alot of space. IMO it's also easier to remove the manifold when swaping turbos

[irissanen]

Ok, but how to reach the oil and water lines underneath the turbo. Especially the oil return line bolts on the block? The transfer case and drive shaft are blocking the view pretty bad. Is it transmission oil coming out then?

[ItsNox]

Originally Posted by irissanen Ok, but how to reach the oil and water lines underneath the turbo. Especially the oil return line bolts on the block? The transfer case and drive shaft are blocking the view pretty bad. Is it transmission oil coming out then?

@SpeedRebirth; is right. Also pull the hood. It's 4 bolts and the washer tubes. I suggest pulling the exhaust manifold as well. Takes an extra 20 min and frees up much more space.

Turbo to block oil line - use 2 wrenches taped together at the angle you need. Lots of patience.

Do not remove the PTO for a turbo swap.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

[Code Monkey]

A long 8mm wrench will do for the lower bolt.

[SpeedRebirth]

I welded two 8mm wrenches together to get the right lenght for the lower bolt on the oil return. Couldn't find a long one local. The longer the better!

I guess it would leak from the transmission side when removing the TC (I drained all fluids before removing my TC). But you can't just unbolt the TC, you would have to remove the axles, and removing them involves disassembling half of the suspension! By that time you're halfway to pulling the engine out... NOT the way to do it =)

Good tools is the way to go! Ratchets and ratchet wrenches in different sizes and several extensions in different lengths, pliers ect.

[SpeedRebirth]

Btw, I recieved most of the missing parts last week!!

Lots of gaskets and stuff from edge


Got a SBC Stage 3 Endurance clutch from Newage



Also got some stuff painted to get rid of that awful rust!


New arms needed a brighter life =)


Fuel rail cover looks just a liiittle better now =)



Though I had 1 fail... the damn thermostat housing broke when bolting it on!! The new gasket was thicker and it seems they changed the design so its not compatible with the old thermostat.. I loved that thermostat! It's been in our family for so long now it's almost like a pet

[Code Monkey]

You still use the fuel rail cover?

[SpeedRebirth]

Maybe I'm just making it more attractive for a potential buyer?? *clears throat and goes into poker face mode*

[Fonsi]

Dude I love your build ...
How did you prepare and paint your axle parts? I have to paint my parts from the MS6 too. Will start ripping them out the next weekend.

Will you give me some details about your SP63 engine? I'm still considering of buying one instead of letting my engine built locally.

And last but not least: do you like your HDi intercooler kit?

[SpeedRebirth]

Originally Posted by Fonsi Dude I love your build ... How did you prepare and paint your axle parts? I have to paint my parts from the MS6 too. Will start ripping them out the next weekend. Will you give me some details about your SP63 engine? I'm still considering of buying one instead of letting my engine built locally. And last but not least: do you like your HDi intercooler kit?

Thanks man! =)
Most of the parts i've painted have been sandblasted or just grounded down to the metal. The lower control arms in the picture had a very thin black color that I think would have rusted real fast, they are the only ones that I just painted without preparing the surface. I used Hammerite smooth silver. Also painted my JBR TMM but used their black color and it SUCKS real hard. Worst paint i've ever used! Could still see through it after 4 coats...

There's a lot more stuff to paint too. Just sent in my subframe to be sandblasted and they will apply a two component paint for rust protection. We'll see how it looks, if it's not up to my standard looks wise then i'll use some black or silver or gold paint on it =)

I went with a basic SP63 build:
New mazda longblock
Manley rods
Mahle pistons
Clevite bearings
ARP main studs
10mm L19 head studs
Crower springs
Keyed Crank
Pinned Cams
BSD + baffle

So basicly what they now call a Stage 2 build + Stage 1 mild head porting


I like the HDI kit. It's not the easiest to install but it sure flows a lot, I gained about 20hp with just the IC kit on the same tune, going from cpe TMIC

[Fonsi]

Originally Posted by SpeedRebirth I went with a basic SP63 build: New mazda longblock Manley rods Mahle pistons Clevite bearings ARP main studs 10mm L19 head studs Crower springs Keyed Crank Pinned Cams BSD + baffle So basicly what they now call a Stage 2 build + Stage 1 mild head porting

Is there no need for new / other sleeves?

[SpeedRebirth]

Originally Posted by Fonsi Is there no need for new / other sleeves?

There are lots of cars out there with 500-600 hp on oem sleeves. SP63 rates this engine to 650FWHP (720BHP) but it can take even more than that. There's a 6 out there with 613awhp (760BHP) on almost exact same engine spec.
My goal is 500+ or whatever my turbo can achieve. If that's not enough I could always upgrade to GTX3582 but that's not what I plan on for the moment

[Fonsi]

Thanks for clarifying! I checked out the SP63 shop and saw that they have simplified their options into stages .

[SpeedRebirth]

Update!

The clutch is on after having to resurface the flywheel where it connects to the crank. It was delivered rusty.. But it looks good now




Cleaned the inside up real good and greased the fork ect



Right now I'm at the stage of putting the gearbox back onto the engine. Guess what? The SBC clutch touches the bellhousing so I could not rotate the crank.



There are markings in front of the fork boot and the ridge above it. Will grind them down then bolt the gearbox to the engine again and rotate the crank so I make sure there's no other spots that it touches

[SpeedRebirth]

Time for an update!

Got my downpipe, hotside and manifold coated and damn it looks good



Tial housing looks awesome



Also confirmed that the timing was set right and installed the crank sensor. You can also spot a new heatshield on the transfer case, bling bling



Perfect!



Got some nice Cosworth thermostats. Sold two with profit, keeping the third one for myself!



Thermostat, starter motor, painted oil housing



Time to upgrade the bushings as well!! It's from the Russian company that Phate has on his car.



Tomorrow I'll hopefully receive my cleaned injectors so after they arrive I'll be able to assemble pretty much everything on the front of the engine as well as the turbokit, then it's time to get the engine in place!!

Next up is to order Bilstein B12 suspension

[manselainen]

Looks good! But how do you plan to pass smog test

[Pu Manchu]

Originally Posted by manselainen Looks good! But how do you plan to pass smog test

maybe the same way the guys from the 'stockholm open' pass

[Mazdazilla6]

Curious about the B12 setup. Do you have any info on it? I thought they only offered B8 and their HD shocks for the 6.

[impossible]

Curious as to why you installed that hideous TMIC bracket on the exhaust side of the engine when you have a FMIC now? Also what's the difference with the Cosworth Thermostat's for MZR/Duratec engines and do you have the part # laying around?

[SpeedRebirth]

Originally Posted by manselainen Looks good! But how do you plan to pass smog test

Like my friend did, pay someone to get it through

Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 Curious about the B12 setup. Do you have any info on it? I thought they only offered B8 and their HD shocks for the 6.

I think the B12 is a B8 strut with Eibach springs that are tuned perfectly together. Don't think it's the regular Eibach spring but a specific one for this kit.
Part number for the kit is: 46-192646
Which comes with these springs:
Spring front: 11-55-004-03-VA
Spring rear: 11-55-004-02-HA

Originally Posted by impossible Curious as to why you installed that hideous TMIC bracket on the exhaust side of the engine when you have a FMIC now? Also what's the difference with the Cosworth Thermostat's for MZR/Duratec engines and do you have the part # laying around?

Haha, I only used that bracket as a platform for the TDC measuring tool. It's gone already

Cosworth installs their thermostat into mazdas (fords) housing and sell it as a kit including gasket. It opens up sooner (82c) so the engine will run quite a bit cooler. Think mazdas thermostat opens around 88-90c. I know the the new thermostat design runs quite a bit hotter than what we had in our gen1 cars so the Cosworth option is well worth it.
I bought it from the UK: #PR6595
http://www.burtonpower.com/thermosta...eg-pr6595.html

Cosworth also makes a high flow water pump. They designed it for the ford duratec engine so it's a perfect fit for us

[impossible]

Originally Posted by SpeedRebirth Like my friend did, pay someone to get it through I think the B12 is a B8 strut with Eibach springs that are tuned perfectly together. Don't think it's the regular Eibach spring but a specific one for this kit. Part number for the kit is: 46-192646 Which comes with these springs: Spring front: 11-55-004-03-VA Spring rear: 11-55-004-02-HA Haha, I only used that bracket as a platform for the TDC measuring tool. It's gone already Cosworth installs their thermostat into mazdas (fords) housing and sell it as a kit including gasket. It opens up sooner (82c) so the engine will run quite a bit cooler. Think mazdas thermostat opens around 88-90c. I know the the new thermostat design runs quite a bit hotter than what we had in our gen1 cars so the Cosworth option is well worth it. I bought it from the UK: #PR6595 Thermostat & housing assy Ford Duratec HE I4 82deg Cosworth also makes a high flow water pump. They designed it for the ford duratec engine so it's a perfect fit for us

Nice man, I ended up finding it shortly after commenting that, I'm definitely going to run one on my gen1 when I go built motor since I live in hot ass Texas

[mituc]

Originally Posted by SpeedRebirth I think the B12 is a B8 strut with Eibach springs that are tuned perfectly together. Don't think it's the regular Eibach spring but a specific one for this kit.

For the regular 3 as well as for the 3MPS (Mazdaspeed3) both BK and BL (gen1 and gen2) it's just the regular Eibach Pro Kit and the B8 dampers. The only difference is that the springs for the regular 3 and for the speed3 are different, but otherwise it's the standard kit from the Eibach catalogue. I don't think it's going to be different for the 6MPS (E10-55-004-04-22).

This combination is a lot better for road use than a coilover kit. Being a bit softer it will just provide more grip in all conditions. Probably even during track days if the track is not completely smooth it may still have the edge over a properly set up coilover application.