Thehead's GTX3071R, fmic, cp-e exhaust mani build

[thehead]

Sounds good, I'll take some pictures when I get up in there tomorrow, hopefully I can figure something out, sucks after just spending $4000 on a transmission, clutch and flywheel about 4 weeks ago...

[thehead]

Alright, so nothing from the outside looks fucked up, i can hear it when the diff is making the two rear wheels turn opposite ways, but not when they're going in the same direction, so I'm thinking the insides are all fucked up. There is also some slack before anything else moves after moving the wheel. I'm thinking I'm goina have to replace the insides at least, or I'll just save myself some effort and get this..2006 MAZDA SPEED 6 OEM AWD 6SPD REAR DIFFERENTIAL 68K MS6 SPEED6 2.3L TURBO L3K9 | eBay

The cv boot was a little leaky, but I don't think that this has anything to do with this.

[darkcherry]

Originally Posted by thehead Alright, so nothing from the outside looks fucked up, i can hear it when the diff is making the two rear wheels turn opposite ways, but not when they're going in the same direction, so I'm thinking the insides are all fucked up. There is also some slack before anything else moves after moving the wheel. I'm thinking I'm goina have to replace the insides at least, or I'll just save myself some effort and get this..2006 MAZDA SPEED 6 OEM AWD 6SPD REAR DIFFERENTIAL 68K MS6 SPEED6 2.3L TURBO L3K9 | eBay The cv boot was a little leaky, but I don't think that this has anything to do with this.

The cv axle could have broke inside. I would check inside that leaking boot and see if the bearings have blown apart. The axles can still be together and yet be broken. Let us know what you find. Good luck.

[thehead]

Originally Posted by darkcherry The cv axle could have broke inside. I would check inside that leaking boot and see if the bearings have blown apart. The axles can still be together and yet be broken. Let us know what you find. Good luck.

You are indeed correct! yay . i took it to my transmission guy and right as I pulled in, I heard a pop, when he took it out to test it, we came back and there were four ball bearings sitting on the pavement. Got the axle and seal ordered and I'll have it fixed by the end of the week, good news is awesome.

[Mistersix]

@thehead

First of all, great thread. But can you help me out with the part numbers for the axle seals your getting. Mine leak on both sides of the diff and they need replaced. But having a hell of a time finding the right part numbers.

When you get them would you please post the numbers on the package.

[darkcherry]

Originally Posted by thehead You are indeed correct! yay . i took it to my transmission guy and right as I pulled in, I heard a pop, when he took it out to test it, we came back and there were four ball bearings sitting on the pavement. Got the axle and seal ordered and I'll have it fixed by the end of the week, good news is awesome.

If you do alot of track time with this car or alot of off the line launching I would recommend getting beefier axles to prevent that from happening again in the future, but then again when one weak point is fixed next another weak link will eventually be found. Sometimes very costly. Very glad to hear that it was just a axle and not a very expensive diff. Hope all goes well with your speed 6. Us speed6 guys need to stick together. Lol non homo though. Lol

[Mistersix]

Originally Posted by darkcherry If you do alot of track time with this car or alot of off the line launching I would recommend getting beefier axles to prevent that from happening again in the future, but then again when one weak point is fixed next another weak link will eventually be found. Sometimes very costly. Very glad to hear that it was just a axle and not a very expensive diff. Hope all goes well with your speed 6. Us speed6 guys need to stick together. Lol non homo though. Lol

Man i launched my car last night trying a 0-60 run. (4.9sec) and then came home and read this. Needless to say, i'm gonna lay off the launching. Really, that was my first one in a loooong time.

[mason]

ohhhhh fuck, no point in being scared

[thehead]

Originally Posted by Mistersix @thehead First of all, great thread. But can you help me out with the part numbers for the axle seals your getting. Mine leak on both sides of the diff and they need replaced. But having a hell of a time finding the right part numbers. When you get them would you please post the numbers on the package.

will do, I should have the numbers for you tomorrow night.

Originally Posted by Mistersix Man i launched my car last night trying a 0-60 run. (4.9sec) and then came home and read this. Needless to say, i'm gonna lay off the launching. Really, that was my first one in a loooong time.

how much power are you running according to the virtual dyno?

[Mistersix]

This is my latest pull. I only use data for VD from the same area to keep my runs as consistent as possible. But i've picked up 10 ponies from timing alone. And i've only bumped it up a degree and a half.

[thehead]

Fml, the tranny shop is replacing my axle right now, they can't get the axle out of the spindle, they just broke their 5 ton presss trying to get it out.

[darkcherry]

At that point you may as well buy a wheel bearing too since they probably destroyed yours trying to push it out. Sorry to hear the bad news. Try and see if they can soak it in a penetrating spray and let it sit overnight. Or they may have to put some heat to it and try to get the metals expand and contrast.

[thehead]

yeah, tried heat and everything, shits fucked, . Goina have to get a used spindle and new wheel bearing.

[Mistersix]

how bout them part numbers?

[thehead]

Sorry, still havent gotten my car back, i should have it tomorrow

[thehead]

K, just got my car, the seal for the diff was the wrong one. So i guess autozone doesnt have the part number either, luckily for me, they didnt need it

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

[Koke382]

great thread

[Mistersix]

Originally Posted by thehead K, just got my car, the seal for the diff was the wrong one. So i guess autozone doesnt have the part number either, luckily for me, they didnt need it Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

Good to know, but this i assumed. What do you mean didn't need it? Did they not have to change the seals? Or they had them on hand?

Either way i need dem part numbers man!

[thehead]

they just said the seals were fine, they said usually its 50/50 if they have to replace them or not.

[thehead]

got my SURE Big maf on finally after I ordered the coupling for it, need to work out the tuning though, it seems like I'm running into fueling issues though, my afr's are approaching 13.5:1 when I'm calling for 12:1/11.7:1. The virtual dyno I did today netted 444hp and 433 lbs ft torque, but was spitting and sputtering, so I need to dial it in again, it seams my rough maf adjustment was too much, I think it was +20%, eek. I'm goina check the gap on my plugs as well since they've been on for 25k miles now. Also, third gear spun tires since I'm fwd right now, see below..

Also, after I got my car back from getting the driveshaft fixed, I noticed some clicking on my rear driver's side. I was digging around to see what it was and I see the abs sensor wire isn't mounted and rubbing on my wheel... So they're goina fix that tomorrow.

[cld12pk2go]

Originally Posted by thehead got my SURE Big maf on finally after I ordered the coupling for it, need to work out the tuning though, it seems like I'm running into fueling issues though, my afr's are approaching 13.5:1 when I'm calling for 12:1/11.7:1. The virtual dyno I did today netted 444hp and 433 lbs ft torque, but was spitting and sputtering, so I need to dial it in again, it seams my rough maf adjustment was too much, I think it was +20%, eek. I'm goina check the gap on my plugs as well since they've been on for 25k miles now. Also, third gear spun tires since I'm fwd right now, see below.. Also, after I got my car back from getting the driveshaft fixed, I noticed some clicking on my rear driver's side. I was digging around to see what it was and I see the abs sensor wire isn't mounted and rubbing on my wheel... So they're goina fix that tomorrow.

As a rough correction, you should scale up your MAF curves by approximately 13% (13.5/11.9 -1 = 0.13).

[thehead]

hmm, alrighty, I'll give that a try.

Is there anything tuning wise other than my wgdc that is already at 100% to speed up when I hit my boost target? I'm hitting it at 4k right now which is kind of annoying.

[cld12pk2go]

Originally Posted by thehead hmm, alrighty, I'll give that a try. Is there anything tuning wise other than my wgdc that is already at 100% to speed up when I hit my boost target? I'm hitting it at 4k right now which is kind of annoying.

Where do you get to 20 PSI from a 4th gear roll starting at 2000 RPMs?

I get there by ~3300 RPMs. If you are significantly later than that, then you either have tune, boost control system boost signal issues, or mechanical issues (exhaust leaks, WGA sticking partially open, and etc).

[thehead]

Well, figured its been a while since I've updated this. worked on my car yesterday and today, the gasket that goes between the manifold and the turbo disintegrated, so i had to replace that. while I was doing that, I took the turbo out and preloaded the wastegate a bit more.

I found a way that is "easier" to install that pain in the ass CP-E exhaust manifold, I put the manifold in first, then I put the turbo in while I pushed the manifold towards the passanger side. was much much easier than trying to move the motor forward. its still a pain in the ass to line up the turbo but yeah..

bad news, while i was working on tip of the engine, i accidentally kneeled on my fuel line, the one with the yellow clip that goes from the hpfp to the block and broke it, I tried to epoxy where it broke but that was a failure, goina cost $97 from the dealer to replace that line ><

[thehead]

Got everything up and running, after preloading the wastegate about 1/4" or so the turbo spools up much faster, retuning my wgdc this week, although I think I'm goina port my intake manifold this weekend to see how much more I can get with the vcts removed.

Keep in mind, I'm still tuning. this is just the 2nd pass of wgdc tuning.

[TiGraySpeed6]

whoa
impressive numbers, but hafta ask- occ weight @ 375 lbs? Passenger?

[thehead]

lol, I have a trunk full of subs and tools, my weight is 200ish. shitty thing about living on base is I have no garage for storage. except for whatever I can fit under my rack.

[thehead]

So Just an update to all this. I had my motor built by @SPEEDPERF6RMANC3; about 450 miles in while breaking in my motor, the autotech internals seized up and binded my camshaft causing the VVT gear to be stripped of its teeth and bending valves. So, right now I wait, I'm just glad that Pablo is taking care of my car.

[atvfreek]

Originally Posted by thehead So Just an update to all this. I had my motor built by @SPEEDPERF6RMANC3; about 450 miles in while breaking in my motor, the autotech internals seized up and binded my camshaft causing the VVT gear to be stripped of its teeth and bending valves. So, right now I wait, I'm just glad that Pablo is taking care of my car.

Fuck man. Sorry to hear about this. Nothing worse than a silly failure causing havoc on a build

[thehead]

I just uploaded the pictures Pablo sent, .

[Easter Bunny]

Holy shit.

[MPS2NV]

Ouch :/

[thehead]

So, while I'm waiting for Pablo to work his magic with the latest issue. I'm trying to research doing a water to air intercooler setup. My goal right now is to be at 400hp at the wheels, I've pushed my car further than that before and ran into fueling issues and I have no desire right now to add a 5th injector.

So, from what I've seen there is a 350hp core and a 600hp core setup, should I go for the 350hp one, since I've seen that if you get too big of a core it isn't efficient. Any input would be appreciated.

[Easter Bunny]

I would go larger. Intercoolers tend to be overrated on capacity and its always better to build in a little headroom. Also keep in mind that if you are shooting for 400 at the wheels ricer math says that will be roughly 480 at the crank which is the number you should be getting an intercooler for.

[cld12pk2go]

I would personally only consider water/air IC for a drag only setup.

I would not desire the extra complexity, cost, and weight on a DD setup.

There are plenty of good A2A ICs to support 400whp. I would suggest a Treadstone TR10 or TR11 as a decent economical starting point...

[sidekick]

Any idea why the autotechs seized?

[thehead]

Originally Posted by cld12pk2go I would personally only consider water/air IC for a drag only setup. I would not desire the extra complexity, cost, and weight on a DD setup. There are plenty of good A2A ICs to support 400whp. I would suggest a Treadstone TR10 or TR11 as a decent economical starting point...

I had the TR8 before, I never really had great performance out of it. although yeah, maybe I should switch to the larger core.

Originally Posted by sidekick Any idea why the autotechs seized?

Not sure yet, Pablo seems to think that it was because my car sat for a few months, I'm not sure though. They only had about 10k miles on them and I always ran a few ounces of marvel mystery oil in every tank to keep everything lubricated.

[cld12pk2go]

Originally Posted by thehead I had the TR8 before, I never really had great performance out of it. although yeah, maybe I should switch to the larger core.

The TR8 can support 400whp, but it really is a bit undersized for that power level.

[ms3blackmica]

thehead, best of luck with your future plans.

Originally Posted by cld12pk2go The TR8 can support 400whp, but it really is a bit undersized for that power level.

I too have seen the TR8 do wonders.

It is truly an excellent core for those hp levels and works great on a k04 as well.

[aviator79]

Turbinetech did make a W2A IC for the MS6. I did GB for it but looks like they stopped selling it as not many people use them. I dont think its really overly complicated but at the same time im not going that route because I dont want to deal with it.
Anyways, I had been searching for your post forever as I knew I read that somone ran hot pipe down between engine and radiator. I finally found your post here:
HOW-TO: MS6 Custom FMIC with TR8 Core
Wondering if you have more info on this as its a tight fit. No isses with engine rocking and PS pump hitting pipe? More pics? Id be using 2.25".
Sorry to hear about AT failure. That sucks.
Thanks.