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 Old 04-13-2012, 12:11 AM   #1
 
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Default Update: Battery relocation complete!

So got to my battery relocation today. There just was NO room in between my CPE TIP and the ecu. Ecu was zip tied to the front of the battery box until today.

For those wondering why I have no battery kill switch in the rear for running at the track? I talked to the local track owner and he said as long as I'm not running a 10 second car, and the battery is properly mounted then he will allow me to run. If that rule ever changes it's not that big of a deal really to rewire the trunk for a kill switch.

So I ran 1/0 gauge from the trunk under the car, along the passenger side and into the engine bay. Ran a 1/0 from the alternator back to the power distirbution block. 200 amp circuit breaker underhood as well so when I'm working on the car, just flip a switch to kill power from the battery. Made a custom aluminum mounting plate for the ecu. I reused the factory ECU mounting plate and cover. Grimmspeed mounted to the side of the ECU cover. Use factory mounting points for the custom plate. It's rock solid.

Took me and my buddy about 6 hours start to finish. I think it came out pretty clean.

All I have left under the hood is getting some 90 degree barbed fittings for the line running from the maf to the valve cover so I dont have all that hose snaking along. Make it more of a straight run that way.





















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 Old 04-13-2012, 01:56 AM   #2
 
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Job looks well thought out and done clean. Nice.
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 Old 04-13-2012, 06:52 AM   #3
 
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Looks great!
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 Old 04-13-2012, 05:58 PM   #4
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R u putting the spare tire where the battery went?

I kid, I kid!

Looks good!
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 Old 04-13-2012, 07:38 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by drknyte View Post
R u putting the spare tire where the battery went?

I kid, I kid!

Looks good!
Thats why I have a cell phone & Triple A! lol

Originally Posted by mason View Post
i would like to do this also. how much did everything cost you?

The battery was at sams club for $160. The wiring, fuse blocks, dist. blocks, circuit breaker, etc. ran an extra $175. I didnt have my camera with me, otherwise I would of taken under the car pics to show the routing. All that time and money for a few extra inches of room hehe. Worth it though. Makes working in that area soooo much nicer now.
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 Old 04-13-2012, 06:25 PM   #6
 
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i would like to do this also. how much did everything cost you?
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 Old 04-13-2012, 06:36 PM   #7
 
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Links to the switches and power distribution box?
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 Old 04-13-2012, 07:44 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by IDRVSLO View Post
Links to the switches and power distribution box?
I bought them off the wall at my buddy's shop. Most expensive piece was the wiring (1/0 isnt cheap) and the circuit breaker which was $30. Everything else was $30 or less. All the parts and wiring are from Soundquest (Sound Quest Electronics). You can get the parts a lot cheaper on ebay. I paid a bit below retail only because it's my buddies shop and he wasnt charging me for labor to lend a hand. And I got to use his lift.
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 Old 04-14-2012, 12:19 PM   #9
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For future modders, when I was doing sound competitions we used 0 gauge welding cables, it is very flexable, has a high strand count, is copper, and best of all its cheap. You can even buy it used if you dont mind it being scuffed up.
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 Old 04-15-2012, 12:05 PM   #10
 
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how many feet of power wire did you use? and you ran it under the car? could you explain that a little better or pics of it , thanks.
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 Old 04-15-2012, 03:12 PM   #11
 
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Sorry no pics from under the car. Next time when I have it on the lift I'll shoot some pics of the routing.
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 Old 04-16-2012, 09:30 PM   #12
 
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Wow very impressive man. Does that intake have a straigtener? I like the extra room from no battery. id like to do that but my track will make me have a battery kill switch. Hmmmmm.

Suggestion. Shave that intake manifold and itll look soooo good. Man im impressed with your motor bay.
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 Old 04-17-2012, 09:44 AM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by driver311 View Post
Wow very impressive man. Does that intake have a straigtener? I like the extra room from no battery. id like to do that but my track will make me have a battery kill switch. Hmmmmm.

Suggestion. Shave that intake manifold and itll look soooo good. Man im impressed with your motor bay.
Thanks man! But what do you mean by shaving the intake manifold? It's ceramic coated now so I wouldnt want to do anything to harm the coating. No straightener on the intake, although I'm thinking about adding a honeycomb to it from Treadstone.
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 Old 04-28-2012, 03:09 PM   #14

 
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What about that battery tray? Looking to duplicate this setup.
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 Old 04-29-2012, 07:00 AM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by Ziggo View Post
What about that battery tray? Looking to duplicate this setup.
The battery tray is just a standard universal one size fits all as well as the adjustable tie down you can get at any local auto parts store. I used 3/8 all thread (Lowes) for the bolt(s) securing it. Fender washer, lock washer and nut underneath the car, as well as right inside the bottom of the trunk to lock it into place. As well as the same washer, lock washer, nut on top of the tie down. Be sure you use some kind of sealant around the all thread where it comes into the car at the base of trunk.

Good luck!
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 Old 09-23-2014, 01:40 PM   #16
 
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Where does that ground wire thats grounded on the strut tower go to?
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