Corksport

[MajesticBlueNTO]

We have changed all 3 sets of Coilovers that were experiencing the issue to the springs that Paul mentioned in the Development thread - Eibach 2.5" ID, 6" length, 500 lbs/in (0600.250.0500)


Before, sitting on the driveway:


Spring removed, you can see the rusted parts from where the coils were making contact while blocking:


After, sitting on the driveway:



These springs ride MUCH better. There are no more noises that were previously chalked up to "because coilovers, bro".

I can take a speed hump at 40 km/h with no horrendous bang like before and they are also, dare I say, comfortable

Hopefully they'll see a shakedown at the track this Sunday.



Thanks to CorkSport for getting in contact with Paul to help us in our endeavours at the track and in helping to better the products for the Mazdaspeed community.

[Kyllo24]

Any information on the rear springs? should those be replaced along with the fronts? and if so what measurements are they and what spring rate would be recommended? thanks for any help.

[Celestspeed3]

There is nothing "wrong" with the rear springs. I just don't prefer progressive springs. That being said I made up some aluminum adapters that allow me to run a 2.5" ID standard race spring like the ones I used in the front. Rates for the rear rear depend greatly on how you want the car to behave. The spring is also levered so he wheel rate is not as easy to figure out as the front. If you wanted to AutoX I'd say maybe 650lb springs to start. If you were on the track I'd suggest 400lb springs at start. If you were drag racing, I don't know, maybe 1000lb springs to keep the weight on the front wheels. You could also do that with shock tuning if that is available to you. Keep in mind the tires you use will also have an affection what spring rate is ideal for you.

[grantmm]

Originally Posted by Celestspeed3 Snuck away for a while to make a post. I don't want free stuff, I want to drive my car at the track. That's it. Keep in mind I bought TWO sets of coilovers to alternate through when these need revalving. This way I would have no down time and could track all season. That spare set is now on another car because he wanted to try them out before buying them. I fully expected to abuse these coilovers and planned ahead. I initially wanted to change the spring rates which is why I asked about revalving from the beginning. To get these revolved locally I was looking at $1200+taxes on top of new springs I'm looking at $1700. So now one set of coilovers cost me around $1500. That's $3200 for a set of proper coilovers for the track. Keep in mind the second set would just need revalving so that's $2900. A grand total of $6100, which was still cheaper then running the AST 5300 plus I have a spare set. I wanted to know Corksport's revalving options because if it was cheaper sending it them then I would do that, also I need to know what cartridge they are using so the shock shop can get the proper specific parts. Now on top of there valving stuff because the springs block up under compression all that load is transfered straight to the wheel bearing and bushings. My AIM logger has me pulling 1.32G around some corners. The track I was last at has heavy loads on the driver side, that could be why I only had end link issues on one side. Also the wheel bearings were not designed for this type of loading and are now groaning on the highway. Those will another $500 to replace. On top of that I need a new end link and to fix the sheet metal and paint where the end link rubbed through. I hope some of you now understand why this pisses me off. I accept your criticism that I should have called before making the post. The last time I called it was weeks before I heard back from Corksport. So being a Saturday night I was not waiting until Monday to let this be known. During some measurements and calculations these springs have about 30mm of travel. I drive on the highway go over a dip in the road something not even it bad and the bang is so loud and harsh my rearview mirror moves so much I can. See my shifter in it. I emailed about this and heard nothing. Derrick posted in another thread the correct spring length was 6" that's still not enough travel. These were supposed to be track tested and made to hold up to the abuse I was going to put them through. At this point I would have been better off with Raceland coilovers. For those that are upset at me for complaining about Corksport because they do proper engineering I have this to say. If that were true then my car would not be damaged and in this state of affairs. If Derrick tells me to "Go eat a bag of dicks" (he didn't say that) I won't be mad I will just move on to something else. What else can I really do? Being 3 time zone away in another country. I am running max negative camber and maximum height to maintain the camber curve. I am also using the Corksport end links. If there wasn't enough room the end link mounting tab should have been moved or there should have been something to tell me not to run at those ssettings after all. These were supposed to be tested.

Should have gone with the AST 5220s Rarely will you need the high speed and low speed compression adjustments Granted, mine needed new bushings which AST warrantied very easily, but that was after 2 years of all year, all weather driving.

PS. When we took the coils off for the work, the early version Corksport Camber Plates looked amazing still!

[grantmm]

Originally Posted by Celestspeed3 Pic of suspension loaded at ride height supporting the mass of the chassis.

I had a problem with this where the top of the sway bar end link hit the chassis and we just turned the end link attachment point out a little to solve it. I don't understand why they didn't make it where the endlink is attached to a moveable ring on the threaded portion of the strut body. Why do manufacturers weld it when this is supposed to be a track friendly suspension setup?

[Celestspeed3]

So the AST's had this problem as well?

[grantmm]

The end link problem was due to how Pete set it up. He had too large of a spacer on the top part of the end link to strut connection. Swapping the spacer to the bottom where the sway bar attaches and putting the short one up top along with twisting the connection point a little more towards the wheel straightened that right up.

In case people are wondering what I'm referring to when I say threaded portion and where the endlink attaches to the strut:


I really wish Corksport went with that design (the top left strut).

I have that piece basically bottomed out and I do all of the corner balancing with the adjustable endlink.

[Celestspeed3]

I'm having trouble visualizing the spacer regarding the endlink fitment. Can you describe it again please.

[grantmm]

I'm running around with the front sway bar detached for now, so getting a picture of the endlinks was pretty quick.

Swap the two spacers top and bottom (The slightly longer one on top is supposed to be on the inside of the endlink not the wheel side, but I didn't feel like taking the extra 5 seconds to put it on that way for this picture) and you can see how the endlink moves further in towards the wheel well.



That's what open endlinks look like when they've gone through 2 Salt Lake City winters. The eye parts are 15 dollars or so to replace, so it doesn't really matter.

[Celestspeed3]

Gotcha, thanks.

[bertrand_CX_7]

OK I think I found the spring spec I was looking for.

But @MajesticBlueNTO and @Celestspeed3 didn't provide how they did set up the car height with the adjuster ring to get the car as lower and closest to the height, the original springs from this Kit.

Can anyone of you guys who ran this Eilbach spring confirm the following:

1) What helper spring goes with this Eilback 2.5" spring? Is it what cames originally with the Corsport coilover kit?

2) How did you adjust the height to get the car's height lower than stock.

Those are the 2 questions I'm trying to solve now. And I'm running out of time because the first events are starting already this coming weekend and I'll need to hit the alignment shop again after the install.

To anyone who can give some heads up, please feel free to chime in so I can get the car ready for this racing season.

Thanks

Originally Posted by MajesticBlueNTO We have changed all 3 sets of Coilovers that were experiencing the issue to the springs that Paul mentioned in the Development thread - Eibach 2.5" ID, 6" length, 500 lbs/in (0600.250.0500) Before, sitting on the driveway: These springs ride MUCH better. There are no more noises that were previously chalked up to "because coilovers, bro". I can take a speed hump at 40 km/h with no horrendous bang like before and they are also, dare I say, comfortable Hopefully they'll see a shakedown at the track this Sunday. Thanks to CorkSport for getting in contact with Paul to help us in our endeavours at the track and in helping to better the products for the Mazdaspeed community.

[Kyllo24]

Im using the same each spring and still using the cs helper spring.
And what do you mean lower than stock?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[bertrand_CX_7]

So is this how you guys set up the helper springs with the Eilbach?

Is the helper spring supposed to be all the way compressed, static, like in the pic below?

This is what I'm trying to figure out.

Thanks for your answer:





So the original springs that comes with the corksport coilover kit drops the car lower than stock.

I mean to get a similar car height achieved with the spring that come with this kit.


Do you guys have more pics of the car, so I can see how low is the front on the car and also a pic of the front coilover like the one Paul posted with the Eilbach spring + helper spring?

It'll be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Originally Posted by Kyllo24 And what do you mean lower than stock?

[phate]

Helper springs are fully compressed at ride height. At some point in droop travel, they become uncompressed. They are supposed to touch the main spring at full droop to keep it seated.

Adjust your perch to whatever ride height you feel like.

[Kyllo24]

Yes the helper spring is supposed to be collapsed.
uploadfromtaptalk1391490642354.jpg


Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[bertrand_CX_7]

The reason I was so confused was because I got a 9K spring and the helper spring was all the way compressed. And there was no way it looked normal to me since the front of the car was way to high.

Ii guess I'll drop the 9K spring and go with the Eilbach spring + helper spring.

Hopefully this should solve the stability I'm trying to achieve on the front.

[phate]

Originally Posted by bertrand_CX_7 The reason I was so confused was because I got a 9K spring and the helper spring was all the way compressed. And there was no way it looked normal to me since the front of the car was way to high. Ii guess I'll drop the 9K spring and go with the Eilbach spring + helper spring. Hopefully this should solve the stability I'm trying to achieve on the front.

9kg/mm = 503lb/in. Was it a longer spring?

Edit: If it's a no name brand spring, the rate could be WAY off.

[bertrand_CX_7]

Originally Posted by phate 9kg/mm = 503lb/in. Was it a longer spring? Edit: If it's a no name brand spring, the rate could be WAY off.

Yeah, it was a longer spring. Longer than the Eilbach in this pic and longer than the one that comes with this kit.

What I did was trying to take out the helper spring to get the car to an acceptable height, since the front was way too high. But by doing this, the 9k spring was not being compressed when not install on the car. And when installed, the only way I could get some compression on the spring, was to set the adjuster ring pretty high. Therefore this will cause the car to be up very high once the car is of the jack.

[bertrand_CX_7]

BTW, where to get those Eilbach springs?

Thanks

[phate]

Good call. The shorter spring with helper is the only decent way to solve that. Calculating proper spring lengths isn't as simple as it sounds, lol. I think I've figured out what my 6 needs (finally, heh).

Originally Posted by bertrand_CX_7 BTW, where to get those Eilbach spring? Thanks

Any Eibach vendor should be able to get them. I prefer MAP for most everything, but I'm sure Edge and the like have them, as well.

[bertrand_CX_7]

Can anyone confirm? This is what I got before installing the suspension on the car.

Is the height on the adjuster ring about right?

[Kyllo24]

Looks about right to me.

tapatalk sucks.

[bertrand_CX_7]

Ok have the front struts in. Height is really close to what I got before. I'll adjust it first thing tomorrow morning before hitting the alignment shot.

Thank you'll guys for the support & assistance.

[Kyllo24]

I can't find these on their website anymore. Did they get rid of them?

tapatalk sucks.

[bertrand_CX_7]

Give some feedback here. Car feels incredible balanced with the 500 Lbs spring. This is how it should be.


I'm loving it it again...... On the top of it new clutch.