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CorkSport To say that CorkSport is passionate about Mazda Performance is understatement. It is the essence of what we do. Our mission to offer unparalleled customer service and support, an uncompromising commitment to the community, and deliver top quality performance parts is demonstrated with each product we develop to help fulfill your vehicles performance potential. At CorkSport we believe it doesn’t have to come in a fancy package or be the most expensive product on the market to be the best.


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 Old 02-09-2014, 11:23 AM   #1
 
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Default OCC issues?

So I've been running the CS OCC and pcv/crank vent routing for about 10k miles and today decided to swap over the CS boost tubes I had.

What I discovered was oil on either side of the intercoolers couplers. Is this due to the OCC not doing it's job of getting rid of this crap from the PCV? Is the dual routing method not enough? I'm half tempted to pick up a check valve and use the tropical OCC routing to see if it alleviates it. All I ever have in my OCC is piss colored water.

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 Old 02-09-2014, 11:47 AM   #2
 
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I'm curious to know also. How long have you been running it since new? Or how many miles on the car now? I'm thinking jbr kit myself.
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 Old 02-09-2014, 11:54 AM   #3
 
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@evil MS3; you have not had luck with this..

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 Old 02-09-2014, 11:57 AM   #4
 
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I would change the way you have it plumbed and add a check valve.

I have mine (JBR stg2) plumbed:

PCV-->Check Valve-->Bottom port on can-->Top port on can-->Intake manifold

Never had any oil in intake tract.
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 Old 03-26-2014, 07:33 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by Agent_Orange View Post
I would change the way you have it plumbed and add a check valve.

I have mine (JBR stg2) plumbed:

PCV-->Check Valve-->Bottom port on can-->Top port on can-->Intake manifold

Never had any oil in intake tract.
Is using the stock PCV valve along with the check valve from JBR good?

Just wondering because I was under the impression that the stock PCV valve needed to be removed from the equation

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 Old 02-09-2014, 11:58 AM   #6
 
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perm dual routing yo
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 Old 03-13-2014, 10:13 AM   #7
 
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I know this is a bit of a thread revival, but i too just found a lot of oil in my TIP with the CorkSport OCC. Does anyone know if there is any kind of baffle in the OCC? The two ports are really close together and maybe oil mist just "short circuits" from one port to the other. I bought this to keep my valves clean, but not sure it is doing the job.

@CorkSport; do you have any suggestions to improve the oil catching? Maybe a routing change, or putting some steel wool in the can?
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 Old 03-14-2014, 03:06 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by darthxar View Post
I know this is a bit of a thread revival, but i too just found a lot of oil in my TIP with the CorkSport OCC. Does anyone know if there is any kind of baffle in the OCC? The two ports are really close together and maybe oil mist just "short circuits" from one port to the other. I bought this to keep my valves clean, but not sure it is doing the job.

@CorkSport; do you have any suggestions to improve the oil catching? Maybe a routing change, or putting some steel wool in the can?
Can you send me a picture of how you have it setup? Derrick (at) Corksport.com
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 Old 03-14-2014, 03:30 PM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by CorkSport View Post
Can you send me a picture of how you have it setup? Derrick (at) Corksport.com
I will try to get pics this weekend. I will be putting your airbox in probably tomorrow.

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 Old 03-15-2014, 12:39 PM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by CorkSport View Post
Can you send me a picture of how you have it setup? Derrick (at) Corksport.com
Here a couple pics for you. The white arrow is the hose to the VC vent. The Green arrow is the hose to the PCV and the red arrow is the hose that goes to the TIP. Also note that the screws are very corroded from leakage. No matter what I do there is always a little seepage from the screws. I have tried all kinds of sealants. (I am a former pipe fitter so I know a bit about sealants). Next I plan on just cleaning them up and covering them with silicone caulk. The screw leakage doesn't seem to be enough to impact fuel trims, but does cause some odor when stopped. The real issue I have is the amount of oil in the TIP and intercooler.
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File Type: jpg OCC2.jpg (358.3 KB, 42 views)
File Type: jpg OCC 3.jpg (138.1 KB, 45 views)
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 Old 03-20-2014, 07:30 AM   #11
 
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@CorkSport; Any feedback on this? Just bumping in case you missed the pictures.
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 Old 03-13-2014, 10:28 AM   #12
 
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the oil in the intake/intercooler is from your valve cover breather line that connects to your intake. your OCC works but it would be better if you also connect the VC breather line to the PCV one with a Y or T connector then to OCC.
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 Old 03-13-2014, 10:35 AM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by 5LOWMS6 View Post
the oil in the intake/intercooler is from your valve cover breather line that connects to your intake. your OCC works but it would be better if you also connect the VC breather line to the PCV one with a Y or T connector then to OCC.
I have the VC line T'd into the OCC inlet with the PCV. The hose to the TIP is the outlet of the OCC.

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 Old 03-13-2014, 10:41 AM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by darthxar View Post
I have the VC line T'd into the OCC inlet with the PCV. The hose to the TIP is the outlet of the OCC.

Double tappin' the Moto
not sure if OP is running the same setup but in your case it's definitely the occ.
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 Old 03-13-2014, 03:23 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by 5LOWMS6 View Post
not sure if OP is running the same setup but in your case it's definitely the occ.
Yeah I might need to change the can out to something with better baffling.

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 Old 03-20-2014, 08:40 AM   #16
 
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That's weird. How long has the can been installed? Mine still looks brand new.

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 Old 03-20-2014, 08:53 AM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by littleloogy View Post
That's weird. How long has the can been installed? Mine still looks brand new.

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About 9 months. It seems no matter what I do there is a little leakage from those screws, and I always have a touch of odor when at a stop, unless HVAC is on recirculate. As I said, now that it is warming up, I may clean them all up and seal them with some silicone.

At this point though I am thinking of going to a different set up, especially since this setup provides almost no vacuum at idle or cruise for the crankcase. I am really leaning toward a two can set-up, one for the PCV and one for the VC.
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 Old 03-20-2014, 09:44 AM   #18
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Sounds like the CC isn't doing its job, sending everything back in. Should slap another CC on there to be sure.
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 Old 03-20-2014, 02:30 PM   #19
 
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Just to add my .02, I just removed my TMIC to install a FMIC and yep I am in the same boat. Oil is finding its way through the lines and back through my TIP. I ordered a JBR stage 2 to swap out everything. I only get yellow liquid out of my can. Very rarely do I get any thing else. Of course I am glad the OCC is catching that fluid, but I would like for it to also catch the oil residue. I have my can ran the same as the photos.

PS I am running the first version OCC with the welded top, not sure if that makes a difference.
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 Old 03-24-2014, 10:52 AM   #20
 
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i'm going to check my boost tubes before enm since i am also running this catch can. my ic pipes have always been dry since i got the car. one thing to note is that i also have a oil cap breather to vent crank case pressure.
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 Old 03-26-2014, 05:26 PM   #21
 
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I bought a check valve and hosing from Matt Damond and did the typical routing. Didn't enjoy seeing that oil in there. Also, f this can in the A for not having a drain valve and having an obtuse size thread so I can't buy a valve.
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 Old 03-26-2014, 06:05 PM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by evil MS3 View Post
I bought a check valve and hosing from Matt Damond and did the typical routing. Didn't enjoy seeing that oil in there. Also, f this can in the A for not having a drain valve and having an obtuse size thread so I can't buy a valve.
Yeah I am thinking of buying a kit from Matt as well.

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 Old 03-26-2014, 06:07 PM   #23
 
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I ended up drilling out the drain line and tapping it with new thread pitch so I could install a drain valve. I'm out of town or I would attach pics, sorry.
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 Old 03-26-2014, 06:11 PM   #24
 
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What is the thread size on the CS drain port?
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 Old 03-26-2014, 06:16 PM   #25
 
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Originally Posted by Etipp98 View Post
What is the thread size on the CS drain port?
It's like m8 x 1.25 or something. A size no one makes a valve for

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Originally Posted by jdmage_mx5 View Post
I ended up drilling out the drain line and tapping it with new thread pitch so I could install a drain valve. I'm out of town or I would attach pics, sorry.
Yeah, I was thinking of that as well.

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 Old 03-26-2014, 06:23 PM   #26
 
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They do make m8 x 1.25 male to 1/8 npt female adapters. Then all you need is a 1/8 npt ball valve.
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 Old 03-26-2014, 06:31 PM   #27
 
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Yeah, the adapter is like $20 shipped lol

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 Old 03-26-2014, 07:51 PM   #28
 
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I Junked my CS catch can. I had the same story, all the OCC ever pulled was yellow water and I still had oil getting through into the TIP. Then on top of it the can would pull so much water that the lines would freeze up in the winter and block off my PCV in literally 100-150 miles.

Overall I was very dissatisfied with the quality of this set up (I had a 2nd gen welded can with the shitty lines and stupid plug that rusted immediately) and if I decide to install another OCC down the road I'll go MD or JBR with the correct routing and a CV.
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 Old 03-26-2014, 08:12 PM   #29
 
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Originally Posted by plak424 View Post
I Junked my CS catch can. I had the same story, all the OCC ever pulled was yellow water and I still had oil getting through into the TIP. Then on top of it the can would pull so much water that the lines would freeze up in the winter and block off my PCV in literally 100-150 miles.

Overall I was very dissatisfied with the quality of this set up (I had a 2nd gen welded can with the shitty lines and stupid plug that rusted immediately) and if I decide to install another OCC down the road I'll go MD or JBR with the correct routing and a CV.
Yeah I am really thinking MD new design can he just released. I might use the Corksport between the VC and TIP. then the MD with CV between the PCV and manifold.

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 Old 08-15-2014, 08:49 PM   #30
 
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Sorry to revive this thread, but what is the drill bit/tap size for the drain valve on the can? I know its m8x1.25 for the old style can but its since been revised on the v2.

Edit: After a bit of trial and error, its an 11/32 bit and m10x1.5 tap.
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