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| CorkSport To say that CorkSport is passionate about Mazda Performance is understatement. It is the essence of what we do. Our mission to offer unparalleled customer service and support, an uncompromising commitment to the community, and deliver top quality performance parts is demonstrated with each product we develop to help fulfill your vehicles performance potential. At CorkSport we believe it doesn’t have to come in a fancy package or be the most expensive product on the market to be the best. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So I've been running the CS OCC and pcv/crank vent routing for about 10k miles and today decided to swap over the CS boost tubes I had. What I discovered was oil on either side of the intercoolers couplers. Is this due to the OCC not doing it's job of getting rid of this crap from the PCV? Is the dual routing method not enough? I'm half tempted to pick up a check valve and use the tropical OCC routing to see if it alleviates it. All I ever have in my OCC is piss colored water. A little tapa tapa taparoo...
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm curious to know also. How long have you been running it since new? Or how many miles on the car now? I'm thinking jbr kit myself. |
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__________________ I used to go zoom zoom with my speed.... Now i drive a slow stockish Focus ST... Last edited by MazdaBoy2.3; 02-09-2014 at 12:04 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I would change the way you have it plumbed and add a check valve. I have mine (JBR stg2) plumbed: PCV-->Check Valve-->Bottom port on can-->Top port on can-->Intake manifold Never had any oil in intake tract. |
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Just wondering because I was under the impression that the stock PCV valve needed to be removed from the equation Thanks
__________________ - 2009 Speed 3 - Clocked BNR S4 v2 - Corksport 3.5" Intake - Cobb 3 Port Bcs - Cobb AP V2 - Guardian Angel V3 - Tr8 Fmic w/ Jbr Under Route Piping - Jbr Raiders Air Damn w/ Custom Radiator Side Ducting - Cpe Catless Dp - Cnt Catback - Cobb Xle Bpv - Corksport IM - Full Race EM - Cobb Shift Knob - Autotech Internals - Corksport HP Fuel Line - Gen 2 VC w/ Sp63 Oil Breather Cap - DM PCV Plate w/ Dual Vented Catch Cans - Jbr 88a Rmm - 88a Tmm - 80a Pmm - Corksport Injector Seals - Ngk 1 Step colder Plugs - Koni Yellow Shocks - Eibach Springs - 94 Octane w/ 3 Gallons of In Tank Methanol - Sp63 6th Port Kit (tune in progress) | |
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__________________ 2017 Daytona 392 SOLD//2014 Porsche 981 Cayman S 3.4L STOLEN//2015 BMW S1000R SOLD//2014 Mustang GT// Brembos - Bob's Can - SCT X4 - MGW - GT500 Quad-tip Axle back - Vorshlag Street Pro - Ford K Springs - BMR PHB 2007 MS6 w/ Cheez // COBB V3 AP // Corksport CTS4 // HKS Ignition // SURE ID300 MAF // COBB TIP // CXRacing FMIC // PTP BSD // PTP Windage Tray // PTP TIG // KMD V2.1 CDFP Internals // HD Coil Packs // Corksport DP // TurboXS RP // CP-e 3" Single Cat-back // Bilstein Shocks & H&R Springs // DSS Axle // TSW Interlagos 19x8 +35 // 235/35 Rubber // Defi Red Racer // Block8head Defrost Pod // DDM 3k Fogs & 6k Lowbeams // Custom iPod Integration Hackjob // |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I know this is a bit of a thread revival, but i too just found a lot of oil in my TIP with the CorkSport OCC. Does anyone know if there is any kind of baffle in the OCC? The two ports are really close together and maybe oil mist just "short circuits" from one port to the other. I bought this to keep my valves clean, but not sure it is doing the job. @CorkSport; do you have any suggestions to improve the oil catching? Maybe a routing change, or putting some steel wool in the can? |
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Double tappin' the Moto
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @CorkSport; Any feedback on this? Just bumping in case you missed the pictures. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score the oil in the intake/intercooler is from your valve cover breather line that connects to your intake. your OCC works but it would be better if you also connect the VC breather line to the PCV one with a Y or T connector then to OCC.
__________________ 06 Liquid Platinum GT COBB AP // 3" ID MAF // 3" HTP TIP // Ebay catless DP // Autotech FPI // DO DVC-30 w/D07 // Grimmspeed EBCS // FORGE V1 BPV // DM OCC // JBR SSP|TIGs|EGR- // SURE RMM|Juggernaught // CP-E TMIC|Rear Diff Mount // Whiteline RSB // ISC N1 Coilovers // 18x8 +45 TSW Nurburgring MisterSix Tuned.. vdyno: 287hp/335tq Uncorrected (2400ft ASL) 303hp/355tq Corrected |
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__________________ 2013 VRM MS3 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score not sure if OP is running the same setup but in your case it's definitely the occ.
__________________ 06 Liquid Platinum GT COBB AP // 3" ID MAF // 3" HTP TIP // Ebay catless DP // Autotech FPI // DO DVC-30 w/D07 // Grimmspeed EBCS // FORGE V1 BPV // DM OCC // JBR SSP|TIGs|EGR- // SURE RMM|Juggernaught // CP-E TMIC|Rear Diff Mount // Whiteline RSB // ISC N1 Coilovers // 18x8 +45 TSW Nurburgring MisterSix Tuned.. vdyno: 287hp/335tq Uncorrected (2400ft ASL) 303hp/355tq Corrected |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score That's weird. How long has the can been installed? Mine still looks brand new. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk |
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At this point though I am thinking of going to a different set up, especially since this setup provides almost no vacuum at idle or cruise for the crankcase. I am really leaning toward a two can set-up, one for the PCV and one for the VC. | |
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| Alittle Faster ![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2008 Location: Cape Coral, FL
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Sounds like the CC isn't doing its job, sending everything back in. Should slap another CC on there to be sure. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just to add my .02, I just removed my TMIC to install a FMIC and yep I am in the same boat. Oil is finding its way through the lines and back through my TIP. I ordered a JBR stage 2 to swap out everything. I only get yellow liquid out of my can. Very rarely do I get any thing else. Of course I am glad the OCC is catching that fluid, but I would like for it to also catch the oil residue. I have my can ran the same as the photos. PS I am running the first version OCC with the welded top, not sure if that makes a difference.
__________________ 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 Liquid Silver Metallic HTA 3076 | HTP 4" Intake, battery tray, under mount piping | CPE Exhaust Manifold, downpipe, FMIC & Stage 2 RMM | MD TMM and PMM | Tial MV-R ewg w/ Kozmic dump tube | VCTS delete/Ported IM | JBR OCC, EGR delete, BSD w/ oil pan baffle & RSB | SP63 Oil Cap Breather | Synapse SB BPV | UR CBE | Autotech HPFP | H & R Coilovers | Whiteline Endlinks | Manley Pistons & Rods | L19 Head Studs | Kozmic 6th Port w/ DW65c ITFP | Snow Performance Stg 2 Meth | JMF Manifold | SouthBend Stg 3 Endurance Clutch | Tuned with |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i'm going to check my boost tubes before enm since i am also running this catch can. my ic pipes have always been dry since i got the car. one thing to note is that i also have a oil cap breather to vent crank case pressure.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I bought a check valve and hosing from Matt Damond and did the typical routing. Didn't enjoy seeing that oil in there. Also, f this can in the A for not having a drain valve and having an obtuse size thread so I can't buy a valve.
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__________________ 2013 VRM MS3 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I ended up drilling out the drain line and tapping it with new thread pitch so I could install a drain valve. I'm out of town or I would attach pics, sorry.
__________________ 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 Liquid Silver Metallic HTA 3076 | HTP 4" Intake, battery tray, under mount piping | CPE Exhaust Manifold, downpipe, FMIC & Stage 2 RMM | MD TMM and PMM | Tial MV-R ewg w/ Kozmic dump tube | VCTS delete/Ported IM | JBR OCC, EGR delete, BSD w/ oil pan baffle & RSB | SP63 Oil Cap Breather | Synapse SB BPV | UR CBE | Autotech HPFP | H & R Coilovers | Whiteline Endlinks | Manley Pistons & Rods | L19 Head Studs | Kozmic 6th Port w/ DW65c ITFP | Snow Performance Stg 2 Meth | JMF Manifold | SouthBend Stg 3 Endurance Clutch | Tuned with |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score What is the thread size on the CS drain port?
__________________ Parting out car, 800whp motor with 4k miles on it, 6466 turbo kit... ect I also do diesel gear swaps hit me up for more info. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score It's like m8 x 1.25 or something. A size no one makes a valve for A little tapa tapa taparoo...
A little tapa tapa taparoo...
__________________ Last edited by evil MS3; 03-26-2014 at 06:16 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score They do make m8 x 1.25 male to 1/8 npt female adapters. Then all you need is a 1/8 npt ball valve.
__________________ Parting out car, 800whp motor with 4k miles on it, 6466 turbo kit... ect I also do diesel gear swaps hit me up for more info. |
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![]() | | #27 | ![]() |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah, the adapter is like $20 shipped lol A little tapa tapa taparoo...
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I Junked my CS catch can. I had the same story, all the OCC ever pulled was yellow water and I still had oil getting through into the TIP. Then on top of it the can would pull so much water that the lines would freeze up in the winter and block off my PCV in literally 100-150 miles. Overall I was very dissatisfied with the quality of this set up (I had a 2nd gen welded can with the shitty lines and stupid plug that rusted immediately) and if I decide to install another OCC down the road I'll go MD or JBR with the correct routing and a CV.
__________________ Mods: JBR 3" WP, Cobb AP, JBR SSP, JBR 88d RMM, JBR Rear Sway, JBR Camber Arms, Autotech's, UR DP/TP, CS OCC, DO STG1 soon... |
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Double tappin' the Moto
__________________ 2013 VRM MS3 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Sorry to revive this thread, but what is the drill bit/tap size for the drain valve on the can? I know its m8x1.25 for the old style can but its since been revised on the v2. Edit: After a bit of trial and error, its an 11/32 bit and m10x1.5 tap.
__________________ JBR 3.0" WP // CS Racepipe // UR CBE // CS TMIC // CS SS Plate + Bushings // Autotechs // NGK's // Damond Oil Restrictor Bolt // Forge v2 // JBR RMM 88 // JBR .250 RSB // CS Springs/Struts // SPC Camber Arms // Last edited by JDMJOSH; 08-19-2014 at 07:06 PM. |
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