Oil Catch Can Fix*

[El_Diablo]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 You're not going to see BOOST in the intake. Even when the bpv is recirculating.

Have you tested to be sure? I'm not talking full on boost, rather a short burst of a pressure wave.

Originally Posted by Tokay444 Do a compression and leak down test. It seems you're boosting your crank case and subsequently your catch can. I feel like I've said that already.

A question for you.... if I'm boosting the crankcase, shouldn't the air just flow right out of the occ into the TIP therefore not creating a single issue at all..... unless there was blockage, your blow by theory holds no water at all. Either way, not user error or a problem on my end.

[I_Heart_Haters]

fuck...and i just bought a cs occ............

[Tokay444]

Originally Posted by El_Diablo Have you tested to be sure? I'm not talking full on boost, rather a short burst of a pressure wave. A question for you.... if I'm boosting the crankcase, shouldn't the air just flow right out of the occ into the TIP therefore not creating a single issue at all..... unless there was blockage, your blow by theory holds no water at all. Either way, not user error or a problem on my end.

Well, you have a big open end on one side of the intake, and at the other side the turbo/engine is continuously drawing in air. You will not boost the intake. If you capped off the filter, and and completely stalled the turbo, you still likely wouldn't see boost in the intake.
As for question 2, if blowing the cap off the can has less resistance than traveling to the tip, that's what will happen.
Lets not forget, if you're boosting the crank case, you have two boost sources into the can. The PCV and the valve cover.
Your question is a little silly. If your theory of passing boost through the can into the tip with no issue held any water, people wouldn't blow couplers off intercoolers or worse, holes in motors, because the boost would just travel through the engine with no problem.

[El_Diablo]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 Well, you have a big open end on one side of the intake, and at the other side the turbo/engine is continuously drawing in air. You will not boost the intake. If you capped off the filter, and and completely stalled the turbo, you still likely wouldn't see boost in the intake. As for question 2, if blowing the cap off the can has less resistance than traveling to the tip, that's what will happen. Lets not forget, if you're boosting the crank case, you have two boost sources into the can. The PCV and the valve cover. Your question is a little silly. If your theory of passing boost through the can into the tip with no issue held any water, people wouldn't blow couplers off intercoolers or worse, holes in motors, because the boost would just travel through the engine with no problem.

Again, I agree, your not going to "boost" the intake, but you might see a short pressure spike. Tell me that the air released from the turbo at 19+ psi while trying to find the shortest route could not momentarily cause a pressure wave as the bypass valve releases compressed air into a regular atmospheric area. Proove it to me that this will never happen. Again, I'm not talking about boosting the fucking intake. Just a pressure wave. Think about it as a semi displacing air as it passes by you on a bicycle. Air will displace air as believe it or not, air does have a specific weight. Again, one more time, pressure wave, not boost, there is a difference. What happens when. Bomb explodes? Its the pressure wave moving the air that causes the largest damage in most cases.

The problem your not seeing is the engine is a sealed system when operating properly while the crankcase is a VENTED system! The only way your theory works is if the TIP inlet is blocked. Otherwise the TIP is pulling vacuum when your on the throttle and thus pulling a vacuum on the can.... so basically I would have to be pushing a massive freaking amount of air for your blow by theory to work. Its just not going to happen unless there is a line plugged.

[Tokay444]

It will never happen by the sheer LACK of volume traveling through the recirc tube.
It's obvious you haven't been around this engine very long if you think you're lot losing boost into the crank case.
Ima leave this thread of fail now and let you come to your own conclusions though.
Have fun with that.

[Jhornbrook]

Ok, so I've read the whole thread, own a CS OCC and am running the old set up with a check valve. I noticed you do not have a aftermarket BPV. (I'm on my phone and checked your sig but I could be wrong). Is it possible that your stock BPV is not holding boost and causing a small leak and some how causing excessive pressure in the can or causing the can not to have enough vaccum being pulled. Just a thought as I am not as fluid dynamics smart as some.

[El_Diablo]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 It will never happen by the sheer LACK of volume traveling through the recirc tube. It's obvious you haven't been around this engine very long if you think you're lot losing boost into the crank case. Ima leave this thread of fail now and let you come to your own conclusions though. Have fun with that.

Of course there is blowby (an engine by nature will never have a complete ring seal), but it is only boost if it is able to pressurize.... blow really hard into the air, you have created flow, bu no pressure. Blow just as hard into a ballon, you have now created pressure. Cut a hole in a ballon, your back to flow without pressure. Pressure is a measure of restriction, if there is so much flow that it is more than a 5/8 line with an already negative pressure can handle, then I would think I would've had a lot more oil in my catch can instead of mostly just condensation and a couple drops of oil. On top of that I should have very deluted oil or at least very dark oil. My last oil change was at just over 14k miles, the oil is still relatively clear (almost due for a change). On top of that, at idle and cruise I should be burning a good bit of oil.

No signs of massive blowby are there, not saying it is impossible but again, unless a line is blocked, it doesn't even matter if I have a lot of blow by. That's what these freakin cans are supposed to catch, and oil stirred up by blow by and or crankcase aeriation.

[Dano]

FWIW,

I am aware of at least 2 guys that I trust installed the kit correctly and they blew the lid.

Another way to blow the lid, with the way CS has the routing, is to perform a boost leak test of the system from your intake. You must plug the OCC plumbing before performing the test. This could be how some guys, NOT ALL, are blowing the lids off.

CS made a mistake with using glue instead of paying for a weld. They have since corrected that which should be the end of the trouble.

A Welded OCC, without a shitty sight glass, should hold any boost you can give it. its an IC pipe closed at both ends for gods sake. The next part to fail would be the hoses blowing off.

OP...if CS sends you a new welded can that will be the end of your trouble.

be happy

[ChimmyChong]

MD OCC for pcv/IM side...
Cheap ebay vented can or DJ vented can for VC/TIP side

Win win

[Yatta]

Yep, leaving this thread, its a shame I can't thank someone for a groan.

[El_Diablo]

The only real reason I am not happy with the situation is that I am out of a warranty after they replace it and I am out a DD until I get a new can.

Other than that and the lack of customer service skills its a good outcome. I have never had a part fail due to design and the warranty get pulled. Its just kind of bs that they're doing that to people. On top of that, they act like they've never seen a problem of this sort before when we have seen more than a few here.

Main point of the thread. I hope I can help others from making the mistake on this OCC as they likely won't be covered beyond initial failure. As for the replacement, ill hold my judgement to see what they come up with. Hopefully they remove the useless sight glass and use an NPT thread instead of an 8mm thread in the future as well as welding the top on and using some decent hose as well as a manifold plug that will last. Unfortunetly I won't get replacement hose or plug but I believe it is an issue that needs addressed for future production.

[Dano]

I agree the service is questionable but you could hook your car back up to factory spec and drive it that way indefinitely.

[jack_hammer]

i wonder how all that glue would impact the centrifugal flow of the gasses, and therefore impact the can ability to separate the liquids from the gasses.

also, while welding the lid might solve the problem of the lid popping off, it won't solve the mystery of how the cans are seeing enough pressure to pop them in the first place.


it seems like it would be best to just avoid the kit altogether.

[evil MS3]

Can @CorkSport; maybe chime in and tell us if the can will be updated to a welded version here shortly?

[MazdaBoy2.3]

Outside of the lid, how does this kit differ from the design of the others (jbr, etc.) Is the issue of pressure across the board, and the weak lid exposed it on this kit only?

Matt

[evil MS3]

Originally Posted by MazdaBoy2.3 Outside of the lid, how does this kit differ from the design of the others (jbr, etc.) Is the issue of pressure across the board, and the weak lid exposed it on this kit only? Matt

CS came up with a new routing method which removes the need of a check valve and suposedly is more beneficial for removing contaminats. A properly installed OCC should never see positive pressure so none of them should be blowing, regardless of glued lids or not.

[Keko]

Originally Posted by evil MS3 Can @CorkSport; maybe chime in and tell us if the can will be updated to a welded version here shortly?

That has been confirmed a couple times in this thread, including in the OP

[evil MS3]

D'oh......reading > me

[MazdaBoy2.3]

Originally Posted by evil MS3 CS came up with a new routing method which removes the need of a check valve and suposedly is more beneficial for removing contaminats. A properly installed OCC should never see positive pressure so none of them should be blowing, regardless of glued lids or not.

Thanks. Where this pressure is coming from is still beyond my knowledge level...I understand blow by, but when it goes beyond a basic PCV I am lost...

[CorkSport]

If someone is having a problem with one of our OCCs please contact Kelly@corksport.com

-Derrick

[jack_hammer]

Originally Posted by MazdaBoy2.3 Outside of the lid, how does this kit differ from the design of the others (jbr, etc.) Is the issue of pressure across the board, and the weak lid exposed it on this kit only? Matt

These are different from a fundamental change in design. Try doing some reading.

[MazdaBoy2.3]

Originally Posted by jack_hammer These are different from a fundamental change in design. Try doing some reading.

Thanks.

[El_Diablo]

I've been talking about some changes with kelly.... just sent her an e-mail asking about the possibility of changing to NPT for an easier drain solution aswell as removing the "sight glass".

Unfortunetely I didn't get a chance to work on the car today. I had to do some work on the garage and was unable to get a car in. My next day off is Sunday and hopefully then I'll be able to take some pictures and reroute to just using a vent filter and a cap on the intake until the new can arrives.

I'm really hoping we can get these changes made for durability and reliability as well as making it a little easier to drain but we'll have to wait and see what they say I guess.

[jamesr242]

I realize that you aren't using a check valve, but I'm wondering if some of the people are blowing because of a shitty check valve. I've been running the old routing with a McMaster Carr check valve for ~8k miles with no issues. I remember when they first decided the check valve was necessary (after saying it wasn't) they were selling a cheap $10 valve that (IIRC) others had deemed questionable in threads on this forum.

Either way, for a product that took this long to come to market, there sure seems to be a lot of flip-flopping on what the correct setup is. I am disappointed that I paid top dollar to be a beta tester. I still have to redo the hoses with the new ones, a PITA I am not looking forward to. Although mine hasn't blown up, I would've bought something else if given the opportunity to do it over again.

[El_Diablo]

I got an e-mail from Kelly last night stating that she had passed the possible revisions to engineering. Unfortunetly its to far along in this run to make the sight glass and drain fittings but it may be possible in the near future. The good news is of course at least now the tops will be welded on this next run!

[zillmerm]

Great, just bought one yesterday...

[crazyp]

And just for FYI in this thread, my Matt Damond OCC is awsome!

[El_Diablo]

Just an update- Kelly offered to allow me to return my OCC for store credit so it will go out tomorrow if our ups guy comes by. When I took the occ off I cut the lines near the can to be able to inspect any possible blockage. Well, it looks like that glue is a worse idea than we initially thought. I found it lodged in the lower fitting on the OCC as well as some in the hose leading to the T between the occ and pcv. I still have some hose to remove but I ran out of time today (had a memorial service to go to). I'll have pictures up tomorrow.

[IshiKage]

cant believe they put glue in those shits ha

[El_Diablo]

I'm hoping the revised design won't still have the glue. It wasn't just used to hold the top on, it was also to seal where the fittings and mounting screws came through. The largest piece Ive found so far was actually from the upper mounting bracket screw. If they continue to use the same sealant they ill have continued issues. Maybe not tops flying off but I hate to think that their sealant could easily get sucked in the turbo and lodged/adhered somewhere or possibly fowl a spark plug, cat (not in my case) or an o2 sensor.

[MazdaBoy2.3]

Originally Posted by El_Diablo I'm hoping the revised design won't still have the glue. It wasn't just used to hold the top on, it was also to seal where the fittings and mounting screws came through. The largest piece Ive found so far was actually from the upper mounting bracket screw. If they continue to use the same sealant they ill have continued issues. Maybe not tops flying off but I hate to think that their sealant could easily get sucked in the turbo and lodged/adhered somewhere or possibly fowl a spark plug, cat (not in my case) or an o2 sensor.

@CorkSport; is the sealant being removed all together or just for the cap?

Thanks in advance, Matt

@El_Diablo; glad they were able to help you out with this!

[El_Diablo]

You and me both. It took a little longer than I would've liked but its coming to a good conclusion. My only hope now is that hopefully this will spur a rethink in the sealant they use or in using sealant at all.

I'm going ahead and sending the pieces of sealant I found with the can, one is in an aproximately 1" piece of hose, the other is aproximatly 1"-1 1/4" long and 1/2"-5/8" wide.

[Javi]

Originally Posted by G26 Saw a guy on Facebook this happened to as well. Blew the top off the can. 3-4 failures in the same way isn't installation error.

I know right?

To clear things out, yes, I did have a check valve!

Same crap happened to me, blew the top off not evenone mile from leaving my house.
I refused to contact CS, mainly because why would i want to get another OCC with glued top and crappy hoses?
so i fixed it myself..

[beachshoer]

New fix looks good.
CS has now changed hoses and design to welded tops. FYI.

[jamesr242]

@CorkSport;

Is it too late to return mine? Only 8 months old with light use and not even exploded yet, LOL

Seriously, at least store credit would be nice gesture of good will. Really don't think I want to run this questionable can anymore. Definitely not up to the "Corksport standard". I just am really having doubts about the longevity of this thing; I'll probably end up buying a can that isn't glued together. Sucks to have to pay for something twice, but I don't want to get caught in tight spot if it fails.

Originally Posted by Javi I refused to contact CS, mainly because why would i want to get another OCC with glued top and crappy hoses? so i fixed it myself..

That's all well and good but some of us don't have access to a machine shop! Probably my last corksport product if they don't do something to deal with this POS.

[CorkSport]

Originally Posted by jamesr242 @CorkSport; Is it too late to return mine? Only 8 months old with light use and not even exploded yet, LOL Seriously, at least store credit would be nice gesture of good will. Really don't think I want to run this questionable can anymore. Definitely not up to the "Corksport standard". I just am really having doubts about the longevity of this thing; I'll probably end up buying a can that isn't glued together. Sucks to have to pay for something twice, but I don't want to get caught in tight spot if it fails. That's all well and good but some of us don't have access to a machine shop! Probably my last corksport product if they don't do something to deal with this POS.

Send an email to Kelly@corksport.com and ask.

-Derrick

[MazdaBoy2.3]

Originally Posted by CorkSport Send an email to Kelly@corksport.com and ask. -Derrick

Derrick,

Is the revised edition going to include the same sealant on the parts mentioned my @El_Diablo; (fittings and mounting points)? I realize it will have a welded top.

Matt

[Standsideways]

Lol you all get extra CS points for doing th r&d for them?

[CorkSport]

Originally Posted by MazdaBoy2.3 Derrick, Is the revised edition going to include the same sealant on the parts mentioned my @El_Diablo; (fittings and mounting points)? I realize it will have a welded top. Matt

Should be no sealant since it is welded.

-Derrick

[MazdaBoy2.3]

Originally Posted by CorkSport Should be no sealant since it is welded. -Derrick

Thanks Derrick!