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 Old 07-26-2014, 08:31 AM   #81
 
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Originally Posted by Tweaek View Post
Any word on whether these fit with the 17x9 rpf1 +45?


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I'm pretty sure they wont because of the straight face on the 9's. If you got the 8's they are more bubbled.
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 Old 07-30-2014, 09:52 PM   #82
 
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Originally Posted by taf0422 View Post
I'm pretty sure they wont because of the straight face on the 9's. If you got the 8's they are more bubbled.
Hopefully someone can confirm as that's a huge factor for me and my auto-x setup


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 Old 07-31-2014, 09:32 AM   #83
 
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Wish I knew. I don't have any info from previous customers that I can find confirming that sizing though.
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 Old 07-31-2014, 08:31 PM   #84
 
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You could use the template and check against the wheel?
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 Old 08-09-2014, 10:04 PM   #85
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Spencer/Kim,

I left ya a voice mail. Having an issue.

It appears that either bracket holes for the caliper were not bored enough, or the allen bolt is too long. Either way, there is play of about a few millimeters when fully torqued. The caliper clangs around a bit. It effects 3 of the 4 holes.

For now I put small spacers in to fix, and the brakes certainly work, but with the spacer i am sacrificing the sweep area of the pad on the rotor and am worried about overall integrity....
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 Old 08-11-2014, 06:00 PM   #86
 
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Just installed this kit this weekend. Overall it's a nice kit but I do have to nit picks with the kit.
1. For the cost of the kit I would expect the brake lines to be one piece. Not use one adapter one each end. Even though it should be fine, I always think for the brake system the less adapters the better.
2. In order to run off the shelf brake pads you have to modify the inner pads and cut off the little extra nub. I do believe this was talked about in some other thread. I check dozens of pad manufactures everyone has the extra nub.
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 Old 08-11-2014, 06:10 PM   #87
 
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@Hal;

I didn't hear about a message, I'll look into it though first thing tomorrow.
@SaveMelMac;
Oddly you are the first to worry about the lines not being one piece. I do get the thought though, not sure why we went with it being the way it is.

I have seen some pads that need the nub ground off, and some that don't. EBC pads I've seen needed it ground off, but I've seen Hawk that were fine. Not sure what's up with that.
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 Old 08-11-2014, 06:20 PM   #88
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Spencer,

I received an email from Kelly stating engineering was looking in to it. If I could get the new hardware by Friday, I can sit down Saturday and swap em out real quick and send the originals back.

They look boss, and overall feels better, but I'm just worried about integrity over the long term with the spacers.

Thanks!
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 Old 08-11-2014, 06:57 PM   #89
 
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The only brand I saw that didn't have the nub was hawk. Basically I was referring to stock off the shelf pads you could pick up at any auto parts store. I don't think I made that clear in my first post. I work at an auto parts store and I looked at every manufacturer I could find, I probably spent too much time. More than my boss would like lol.

Just trying to save some people some time if they decide to go that route and grind off the nubs before you start the job. Just needs to be done on the inner pads.
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 Old 08-12-2014, 03:48 PM   #90
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I've got a sweet squeal on my passenger side now...i think it has to do with running the spacers....occassional sound, nothing too bad. once the new hardware arrives I will report back.
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 Old 08-12-2014, 04:15 PM   #91
 
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Thanks for keeping us updated!
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 Old 08-12-2014, 05:07 PM   #92
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No problem. Is the new hardware on the way?
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 Old 11-04-2015, 02:48 AM   #93
 
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I hate to bump an old thread with this but I have some serious concerns about the fatigue life of the caliper brackets, especially if they are aluminum. Was a fatigue analysis done on this part? How many cycles?

There should not be 90 degree angles between the caliper and it's mounting tabs, even with fillets. There's a reason you don't see this on OEM designs, or any of the major aftermarket brake manufacturers. The tabs are always blended and webbed as much as is possible. The brake caliper brackets are NOT the place to try and save a few ounces by minimizing material.

Last edited by drago86; 11-04-2015 at 03:13 AM.
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 Old 11-06-2015, 10:46 AM   #94
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Originally Posted by drago86 View Post
I hate to bump an old thread with this but I have some serious concerns about the fatigue life of the caliper brackets, especially if they are aluminum. Was a fatigue analysis done on this part? How many cycles?

There should not be 90 degree angles between the caliper and it's mounting tabs, even with fillets. There's a reason you don't see this on OEM designs, or any of the major aftermarket brake manufacturers. The tabs are always blended and webbed as much as is possible. The brake caliper brackets are NOT the place to try and save a few ounces by minimizing material.
The brackets which hold the aluminum caliper to the knuckle are steel.

-Derrick
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 Old 11-06-2015, 11:07 AM   #95
 
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Originally Posted by drago86 View Post
I hate to bump an old thread with this but I have some serious concerns about the fatigue life of the caliper brackets, especially if they are aluminum. Was a fatigue analysis done on this part? How many cycles?

There should not be 90 degree angles between the caliper and it's mounting tabs, even with fillets. There's a reason you don't see this on OEM designs, or any of the major aftermarket brake manufacturers. The tabs are always blended and webbed as much as is possible. The brake caliper brackets are NOT the place to try and save a few ounces by minimizing material.

Comes in fighting like he knows the material and is mastermind in brakes....
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 Old 11-06-2015, 02:23 PM   #96
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Originally Posted by CorkSport View Post
The brackets which hold the aluminum caliper to the knuckle are steel.



-Derrick

Steel fatigues man.

(Puffs joint)

It's a conspiracy.
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 Old 06-26-2017, 09:09 AM   #97
 
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Ok, old thread is old but as a romanian saying states one needs an old chicken to make the soup good.
So after these years I'd like to hear some opinions. I want to change my factory callipers, they're pretty old and I feel they don't perform as I'd like (mainly street spirited driving, occasional track/circuit racing).

Right now I have two options:
1. brand new factory callipers;
2. some decent aftermarket callipers that are proven to perform well under these conditions.

Therefore I'd like to hear a few opinions apart from the stupid colour mismatch (my car is blue for I'll be good with silver callipers in the back until I paint them with some Foliatec Blue RS paint).

I'd also like to know how much larger rotors can these callipers accommodate and where can I source them (330mm rotors would be nice, even though not necessarily a must).
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Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit
JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts
Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator.
StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI

2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual
SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP
GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake
TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars
self-Versatuned to 22PSI
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 Old 06-26-2017, 06:37 PM   #98
 
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Been running these for a few years now and about 20k miles no issues what so ever. Just driven on the street. I have been happy. Sorry that's the only input I can contribute
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 Old 06-26-2017, 08:14 PM   #99
 
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I had these on my first pu and they were great for street driving. I recently was in the market to upgrade braking system as I needed new rotors and looked at these again. For the price I was going to pay for these calipers and a pair of rotors was setting me back $1200. I kept searching and found a complete BBK from wilwood 6 pot and 2 piece rotors, pads and SS lines for $1150 on Edge. I'm not knocking the CS calipers as they're great if you just want a caliper and still have life left in your rotors, but if you're upgrading all components you can get an entire kit for just a few more Hondos. And that weight redux!
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2013 LSM w/tech

Cobb AP V3, CBE
CS Turbo tuned by PD
Corksport Catted DP/HPFP Internals
JBR FMIC Pipe Kit w/TR8
CP-E TIP/3.5" Intake
DM OCC/TMM
Forge V2 BPV
Bilstein B8 w/Swift springs
Wilwood 6 pot BBK
EBC RedStuff rear pads
Konig Hypergram 18x8.5"
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