Product Release! CorkSport Oil Catch Can Development and Release Notes

[CorkSport]

Sometimes projects take a lot longer than expected to get to release. After several design changes, lots of simulations, and plenty of mounting revisions, we are happy to announce the release the CorkSport Oil Catch Can for Mazda and Mazdaspeed vehicles. Oil catch cans are designed to separate the water, oil and other contaminants from [...]

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[Broxer]

Why didn't you use a drain plug that could be removed by hand?

[Gwynne]

This ensures that no components would be falling out onto the road. If it was only hand tight it would probably fall out.

[Alpha]

No different than "Hand tightening" it with an allen wrench lol

OCC looks nice though.

[triplejumper18]

My Saikou Michi is tightened by hand.

[Broxer]

Might consider putting a valve on it, or offering it as an option. Something you can operate by hand to drain it.

[Gwynne]

I will pass the suggestion on to our engineering staff for consideration. Thank you!

[Karmat]

Some pictures of it mounted in an MS6?

[Shooter McGavin]

Group Buy!!!! I've got a birthday coming up this month

[Gwynne]

No plans for a group buy on this product right now.

[Gwynne]

We have added an install video on the Oil Catch Can for 2010+ Mazdaspeed 3's CorkSport How To: Mazdaspeed 3 Oil Catch Can Install - YouTube. Other models will be similar.

[jamesr242]

Hmmm....emptied out out today after 650 miles and only got a couple drops. Maybe it will have more at my next oil change. You guys get anything significant on first drain?

[Gwynne]

Originally Posted by jamesr242 Hmmm....emptied out out today after 650 miles and only got a couple drops. Maybe it will have more at my next oil change. You guys get anything significant on first drain?

We did, but every car is different and should expect different results. Here is the development post that shows the first few times we drained it CorkSport Mazda Performance - Blog » Product Release! CorkSport Oil Catch Can Development and Release Notes

[Weazsel]

Originally Posted by jamesr242 Hmmm....emptied out out today after 650 miles and only got a couple drops. Maybe it will have more at my next oil change. You guys get anything significant on first drain?

Same thing with mine, I just drained it after 900 miles and it was only couple drops that came out. I haven't been driving hard lately would that be why?

See:


Also please clarify the correct direction for the check valve you included. I have the white side connected to the intake side and the orange side facing the catch can.

[CorkSport]

Originally Posted by Weazsel Same thing with mine, I just drained it after 900 miles and it was only couple drops that came out. I haven't been driving hard lately would that be why? See: Also please clarify the correct direction for the check valve you included. I have the white side connected to the intake side and the orange side facing the catch can.

The harder you drive the more oil you would get. I just put a can on our shop MS6 that has never had one and has 85,000 miles. It had mostly water after only 150 miles but a notable amount of it. I would expect you to see more water than oil unless you have a lot of power or really high miles.

We also have E10 in our fuel which gives a lot of water off. There might be differences in fuel across the nation. I would only check the can at oil changes unless you think your car consumes more oil.

Originally Posted by Karmat Some pictures of it mounted in an MS6?

I forgot to do this when I had it on the car. I mounted the can to the inside of the bumper brackets. Should be able to use the "T" bracket that was sent with it but you will have to add a hole and maybe use a couple of nuts.

I will have to add a picture and try to figure out if we can make a universal bracket for all speeds.

[breakfstincluded]

Originally Posted by Brydon@CorkSport The harder you drive the more oil you would get. I just put a can on our shop MS6 that has never had one and has 85,000 miles. It had mostly water after only 150 miles but a notable amount of it. I would expect you to see more water than oil unless you have a lot of power or really high miles. We also have E10 in our fuel which gives a lot of water off. There might be differences in fuel across the nation. I would only check the can at oil changes unless you think your car consumes more oil. I forgot to do this when I had it on the car. I mounted the can to the inside of the bumper brackets. Should be able to use the "T" bracket that was sent with it but you will have to add a hole and maybe use a couple of nuts. I will have to add a picture and try to figure out if we can make a universal bracket for all speeds.

I wonder how much it matters to run this setup with the blocked off IM and such...

On a stock location intake PCV

vs

One that's relocated onto the tip

It would work better with say, the corksport intake combo since it would have more vacuum right?

[Gwynne]

Originally Posted by Weazsel Also please clarify the correct direction for the check valve you included. I have the white side connected to the intake side and the orange side facing the catch can.

You have it the correct direction.

[Dubcnea]

@Gwynne@corksport, i would suggest changing how you seal that bottom bolt. Rubber seal is fine except that is smashes out of shape with nearly any torque on the bolt once it touches that seal. a drain would be much preferred as i'll be trying to see if i can fit on there. it actually caused my car to throw a lean CEL due to the seal NOT sealing.

i get it that i need to check it closer next time. Either a better designed seal or a drain would be beneficial to all. just a suggestion.

[Ryguy]

Originally Posted by Dubcnea @Gwynne@corksport, i would suggest changing how you seal that bottom bolt. Rubber seal is fine except that is smashes out of shape with nearly any torque on the bolt once it touches that seal. a drain would be much preferred as i'll be trying to see if i can fit on there. it actually caused my car to throw a lean CEL due to the seal NOT sealing. i get it that i need to check it closer next time. Either a better designed seal or a drain would be beneficial to all. just a suggestion.

image-207036019.jpg

I used one of these instead, its an a/c o-ring
(napa p/n).

[Gwynne]

Thank you for the feedback @Dubcnea. I will pass the suggestion along to our engineering department for product revision consideration.

[Dano]

is there any baffling inside the can? or multiple chambers with surface area to collect oil into droplets?

A cut away view would be nice.

[Gwynne]

Originally Posted by Dano is there any baffling inside the can? or multiple chambers with surface area to collect oil into droplets? A cut away view would be nice.

We don't have a cut away view but the top and bottom are separate to prevent oil from getting back into the intake. The oil is separated against the wall of the can and drains to the bottom area. This blog post has an illustration of how the chambers work inside the can CorkSport Mazda Performance - Blog » Product Release! CorkSport Oil Catch Can Development and Release Notes

[Dubcnea]

Originally Posted by Gwynne@corksport Thank you for the feedback @Dubcnea. I will pass the suggestion along to our engineering department for product revision consideration.

i missed the part up top in this thread where this suggestion was already relayed to you. sorry about that. do you know the dimensions of that bolt (size...i believe it's fine thread)? thanks.

[Dubcnea]

please note that the issue i had with this OCC isn't the bolt and the washer, it's actually a leak in the nipple to the bottom boot that holds the (semi-worthless) silicon tube. as per:



speaking with Kelly on what my options are. a straight up OCC without the tube would be nice. it's just more potential places to leak.

[Dubcnea]

so...got a replacement OCC from CS. installed it 2 weeks ago. the car was not driven for 1 week due to some cleaning i do. finally drove it again last night and passed a guy by downshifting from 6th to 5th and medium throttle. heard an odd noise like i ran over a big rock. car died when i got off the exit and engaged the clutch. long story short...this happened:



what the fuck. contacting Kelly again. done with all of this one.

[Dano]

Originally Posted by Dubcnea so...got a replacement OCC from CS. installed it 2 weeks ago. the car was not driven for 1 week due to some cleaning i do. finally drove it again last night and passed a guy by downshifting from 6th to 5th and medium throttle. heard an odd noise like i ran over a big rock. car died when i got off the exit and engaged the clutch. long story short...this happened: what the fuck. contacting Kelly again. done with all of this one.

wait...are you saying the top blew off the OCC?

are they not welded together?

With that said, if your PCV system is setup correctly the OCC shouldn't ever see boost.

[Ryguy]

Wow, that shit made me go inspect mine

[rolanblack]

Is that glue residue?

[Mizzle]

HEY @Dubcnea;
Take pictures of the inside for us since there was no cutaway shot.

[Dubcnea]

Originally Posted by Mizzle HEY @Dubcnea; Take pictures of the inside for us since there was no cutaway shot.

i'm not sure if there was medium in there, too. if there was, it flew out as well when the top blew.

Originally Posted by rolanblack Is that glue residue?

it's a bit mushy so i don't think so. perhaps some on the rim.

Originally Posted by Dano wait...are you saying the top blew off the OCC? are they not welded together? With that said, if your PCV system is setup correctly the OCC shouldn't ever see boost.

that seems to be the case. yes the top blew off. no they do not appear to be welded (not sure why). i ran the last one for a few months without issue. this one was set up the same.

[jack_hammer]

gluing is not just a risk for blowing off, but how could you even be sure it stays sealed? the glue could crack or just not go around all the way and leak even if the top does not shoot off.

also, i do not believe there is any medium inside. the concept CS used was that the force of the circulation would separate the air & oil, and the oil would drain into the bottom chamber.

[Dubcnea]

Originally Posted by jack_hammer gluing is not just a risk for blowing off, but how could you even be sure it stays sealed? the glue could crack or just not go around all the way and leak even if the top does not shoot off. also, i do not believe there is any medium inside. the concept CS used was that the force of the circulation would separate the air & oil, and the oil would drain into the bottom chamber.

i cannot say for sure if it was just glued or not. i don't see any weld markings but i'm not sure how they 'sealed' that top down.

[Keko]

Like Dano said, why is it being pressurized though? Admittedly I don't fully understand OCC, but I was considering the CS OCC for their design. This certainly doesn't help my decision

[cbspd3flip]

I seriously was going to order this, this week. I love corksport but this worries me. Unless he installed it wrong causing boost in the system, causing the failure.

EDIT* Or he has a malfunctioning PCV system.

[evil MS3]

interesting. subbing for outcome

[Hush]

Sorry for dummy questions, but is there constant air movement through OCC when car is running, or only at specific times? PCV opens and closes only when pressure builds in crank case to certain point? Can I check if the OCC is actually running air properly?

Hope JBR welds their OCC'S.

Answered....

Construction:Lids Press-Formed from 304 stainless
Inlet & outlet fittings fabricated from straight 5/8" 304 stainless tubing
Can fabricated from 304 stainless and CNC machined components
Precision TIG welding on all components
Internal filters machined from 6061 perforated aluminum
1/4" NPT quick drain

[freshe5b]

Wow. I literally just ordered my Matt Damond OCC kit and it was a toss up between the two. What a relief!

[Dubcnea]

I'm not trying to put CS on blast by posting this. I am working with Kelly with CS to see what can be done. But i just wanted to put my experience out there for others to know the potential for issues.

as far as setup...this one was setup exactly as the previous one was. it was fine until it sprung a leak. i have no idea where this one went wrong.

[jack_hammer]

Originally Posted by Dubcnea have no idea where this one went wrong.

manufacturing and/or design

[Dano]

Since you had a "leak" with both OCCs maybe it wouldn't hurt to verify your PCV valve is working correctly or better yet add a check valve to the system.

I would prefer the can be welded together for sure but that does cost more money than their current process.


Tappin