What do you want in a real Mazdaspeed shifter??

[glockman25]

How bout a built in shift knob like one piece no threaded piece

[Ryguy]

How would you get the boot on and off then?

[dan7225]

1. Make a heavy knob that comes with it.

2. Make a shift boot that comes with it.

3. It needs to have at least one bend in it to bring the knob closer to the driver's side. Preferably two bends, one to move it closer to the driver side and one to bring it further back towards the arm rest.

4. Make a model with a base as well.

[Voltron]

Originally Posted by Brydon@CorkSport I've never driven a subaru that clicks. Or I'm not sure what that means. I think the big difference is Subarus use a shifter that is directly attached to the transmission that move metal rods to change gears. The MS3 use a cable shifter so there is always something lost in feeling.

Hes talking about how shift linkage feels. Its notchy and feels more solid.


Me personally I have removed all the weights, ssp combos. I also went back to the stock shift knob.

Whatever you make, make a heavier stock like shift knob.



Okthanxbai

[glockman25]

Originally Posted by Ryguy How would you get the boot on and off then?

Damn didn't think about that. No boot needed a shift plate would be cool looking

[Cheapspeed]

Originally Posted by silvapain Everybody and their brother makes heavier shift knobs. Does the same thing as a heavier counterweight.

I'm gonna try adding weight to the counterweight while keeping the stock knob and see how that does. I'll just tape a heavy piece of steel or iron to it, I'm sure the welders got something lying around. If that's any good I'll rig up something more permanent. My shifter feels notchy no matter what. 2nd gear is better with that ford gear oil, but everything else stayed the same.

[Mr.Bison]

Maybe a slight height reduction while offering crisper throws...just added Ford cum to the tranny too, something like this would be perfect.

[Alexander]

How about some gated shifter action?

[breakfstincluded]

mmm... shift cable upgrade... would sell like hotcakes

[daytonabluez05]

would it come with shifter base bushings by any chance?

[Enki]

The TWM full replacement shifter at 10% of the cost would be nice.

[jm211]

@CorkSport; im excited on some updates for this. Would ya'll mind posting some product updates and which platforms you are building for?

[anotherneon]

Rod brakes or stop bolts so you cant over throw the shifter once its in gear. Perhaps the rod hitting the rod brakes will give those users the satisfaction of knowing they are in gear and hearing that "click" they are looking for. It also gives your had feedback knowing you're in gear.

[hnda etr]

Originally Posted by 2.0t03speed What i'm looking for: Something to get rid of the stock shifter slop Something that won't fall apart(i see you are using the threaded holes for multiple cable adjustments like the cobb) One that won't eat up the stock plastic shifter housing on the gen 1. or if it has a chance of eating it provide something like the seriouspeed plate. SeriouSpeed Slick Shift - SeriouSpeed.com - Get Serious EDIT: i'd also like to see a perch for the shift boot.

Originally Posted by Brydon@CorkSport There will only be machined surfaces that touch the factory pieces. So no need for a plate like seriouspeed.

Originally Posted by Deldran How would a machine surface prevent the ware of the stop that forces you to push down for reverse?

Originally Posted by Brydon@CorkSport Smooth transitions. Similar to Gen2 from Gen1 operations.

I'm not sure Brydon is either a) understanding this issue or b) isn't clear in his description.

The issue that people are talking about is that on the Cobb STS, the "Pin" that hits the factory composite shifter body is flat and sharp (at least it was on their old ones, not sure about how the ones produced nowadays are) and eventually digs away the material on the reverse lockout "bridge". This "bridge" is the piece that the SeriousSpeed metal plate covers. This is the part that makes you press down on the shifter to continue pressing the shifter to the left to get into reverse gear.

Once the material gets chewed up enough, the shifter can then glide right past first gear and into the reverse gear "shift area" - especially if you have any downwards force on the shifter when you try to go in to first - like when you rest your hand on the shift knob like i do. This is the main reason I purchased the TWM full replacement, to replace the OEM assembly.

Brydon, your STS either needs to have a ball/rounded end on the "reverse lockout pin" so that it doesn't dig away at the OEM composite assembly, or include the same type of metal plate like SeriousSpeed has to repair existing damage and/or prevent future damage. Make it an "add-on" option.

If you already understand what I'm saying, well then... Your replies need to be better lol

[hnda etr]

Originally Posted by jm211 CorkSport; im excited on some updates for this. Would ya'll mind posting some product updates and which platforms you are building for?

Well their recent history would point to Gen 2 only lol...

[breakfstincluded]

Originally Posted by hnda etr This "bridge" is the piece that the SeriousSpeed metal plate covers. This is the part that makes you press down on the shifter to continue pressing the shifter to the left to get into reverse gear.lol

Do you has a link or directions to where I can find such plate?

Are there any issues with it?

[jm211]

Originally Posted by hnda etr Well their recent history would point to Gen 2 only lol...

Good point. Well, one can be hopeful. They've been quiet on here lately.

[ABolewski]

Originally Posted by silvapain If you guys want less slop, at minimum the entire shifter base needs to be replaced (e.g. The TWM MS3 full replacement shifters), but really the issue is the cables. Nothing really can be done about that. The design of the chassis and trans don't lend themselves for metal shift rods, and unless you want to convert the engine to mount longitudinally, you can't mount the shifter directly on the trans. The only novel thing CorkSport could do is add adjustable shift knob height.

Has anyone ever heard of Nokon cable housing?
It's for road and mountain bike shifters (and those that use cable brakes). It is a system of barrels and spheres with holes through them, where a teflon tube runs through, all with the cable inside. Although you will still have the cable which eventually stretch and give slightly, the cable housing, which in bikes is probably 75% or more of the issue, is now completely solid with zero give.

Here's an example of it on a bike. I used it on my shifters, and when I used my XTR v-brakes (I would swap with my juicy 7's for dry days) braking and shifting were phenomenally better than when I had traditional cable housing. The old housing required a lot of constant adjustment (and replacement) where as the Nokon needed to be dialed in just once and even the inner cable never needed to be touched for shifters or brakes.



Just a thought.

[hnda etr]

Originally Posted by breakfstincluded Do you has a link or directions to where I can find such plate? Are there any issues with it?

Ummm... it's in my post (where I quoted 2.0t03speed) and in the original post by 2.0t03speed?

Originally Posted by ABolewski Has anyone ever heard of Nokon cable housing? It's for road and mountain bike shifters (and those that use cable brakes). It is a system of barrels and spheres with holes through them, where a teflon tube runs through, all with the cable inside. Although you will still have the cable which eventually stretch and give slightly, the cable housing, which in bikes is probably 75% or more of the issue, is now completely solid with zero give. Here's an example of it on a bike. I used it on my shifters, and when I used my XTR v-brakes (I would swap with my juicy 7's for dry days) braking and shifting were phenomenally better than when I had traditional cable housing. The old housing required a lot of constant adjustment (and replacement) where as the Nokon needed to be dialed in just once and even the inner cable never needed to be touched for shifters or brakes. Just a thought.

Why the double posting? lol

The problem is with our cables stretching, like you mentioned. It's not with the housing/sheathing. Once the cables stretch, you start getting more "slop/play" in your shifter and the only thing you can do is replace the cables.

A cable shifter system itself is inherently less precise and more vague than a direct linkage or rod system is, as Silvapain already stated.

Originally Posted by jm211 Good point. Well, one can be hopeful. They've been quiet on here lately.

Except for Kim@CorkSport; showing up in shout for sexual harassment lol

[mr.speedy3]

A true short shifter would be nice... Back in my ricer days, I had a short throw shifter in my neon. Made custom by some guy at his work, went by 'Maddog'. Kind of how Tokay makes seals. Cost me $50 + my shifter (after receiving the new one) because neon. Best shifting ever. I prefer relatively short throws though. I still have the POS somewhere if you want pictures for some reason

[RevolverRob]

Late to the game.

Screw the cheap shifter. I want a solid built replacement that just doesn't suck. Metal base, metal over-travel stops, adjustable length throw, combined with a SERIOUS shift cable because the stock one is SHIT. I know your competitors offer a good shifter, but I'm working on being CS loyal and no one offers a quality shift cable.

-Rob

[daytonabluez05]

Updates?