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| Speeeeeed ![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Corpus Christi, Tx
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I talked to my engine machine shop guy and he told me he has been cutting them off of old Chevys and Caterpillar engines for years with no effect on engine balance or durability. The reason is that the ring gear weighs the same amount all the way around and cutting it off has zero effect on the balance of the crank. He also stated that even if it did somehow change the balance of the crank, the equipment that balances the crank only has pickups for either end of the crank and that the middle of the crank is typically always somewhat out of balance, but it is compensated for at either end of the crank. He also added, for those that don't already know, that the balance shaft does not actually balance anything. The balance shaft cancels vibrations from any imbalance in the rotating assembly, but it doesnt actually balance the assembly and removing it doesnt change the durability or longevity of any of the engines parts. Beyond that he also told me that the reason OEMs use steel crankshafts in alumnium blocks is because the blocks twist and move and the steel crank can twist with the block and still be reliable. He suggested that some of the twisting could be causing the actual BSD assembly to bind and fail, but he said that the twisting would not cause the gear to contact a rod and break the rod unless the actual ring gear were to come off. I put a fair amount of confidence in my machinist since he has been building race engines for longer than I have been alive, he suggested that if oiling and knock were not a problem to look at heat and block flex. He is also assuming that he OEM parts can take what we are throwing at them.
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great post. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Now 06Speed6's post makes a whole lotta sense! Thanks! |
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![]() good work
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| Not Ranked : 0 score how does having more solid mounts affect engine flex? do they decrease it because they help limit movement? or increase it because the engine itself absorbs more movement?
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score A motor mount doesnt do anything for the engines internal parts. They simply keep the engine from moving so much in the engine bay.
__________________ 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks a ton for the info! This helps alot! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thats if for me also. As soon as I get my PT kit off comes the ring gear. If it blows up Im gonna sue the internet.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah, I might go ahead and do it. Your reasoning makes sence. So just a dremel w/ a cutting tip? How is it secured to the crank? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score yes a dremel or a cut off wheel very carefully does the trick only took about 10 minutes to do since you have to go slow in the car, then a saft tappy tappy from a plastic deadblow hammer on the gear itself and it goes PING rotate PING done, it falls right out.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score One question: Does the oil from the pick up tube go straight to the oil filter first then sent out to the oiling spots throught the motor? TIA! |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score
This has nothing to bo with the topic, but it goes from the pickup to the pump to the filter to the engine. It is that way for every engine made since the 1940s.
__________________ 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ok so you have decided to cut off the ring gear that drives the BS assembly? What was John gonna do differently or were you just going to have him do it for you? Sorry I was confused when I read this yesterday I thought you had decided to leave the ring gear on there. Which one is it? |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Im going to take it off with the crank in the car. I have another crank I was going to send John, but it will not provide any useful info that we dont already know.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks 06speed for the post I am sure that this cleared alot up for those that were questioning the effects of the ring gear. Last, I want to mention (talk with your machinist about this as well if you get the chance) the ring gear if left on the crank can throw the oil around in the motor. This could cause some windage or oil vaporing that is not necessary due to how easy removing the ring gear is. I think that only possitives can come from removing the ring gear, nothing negative. Again, thank you for taking the time to post your findings on this in my section. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yes it would, people dont knife edge cranks for no reason.
__________________ 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score sooo... i am not installing my kit this weekend, i dont have anything to cut the gear off with guess i'll change my oil
__________________ 2017 Daytona 392 SOLD//2014 Porsche 981 Cayman S 3.4L STOLEN//2015 BMW S1000R SOLD//2014 Mustang GT// Brembos - Bob's Can - SCT X4 - MGW - GT500 Quad-tip Axle back - Vorshlag Street Pro - Ford K Springs - BMR PHB 2007 MS6 w/ Cheez // COBB V3 AP // Corksport CTS4 // HKS Ignition // SURE ID300 MAF // COBB TIP // CXRacing FMIC // PTP BSD // PTP Windage Tray // PTP TIG // KMD V2.1 CDFP Internals // HD Coil Packs // Corksport DP // TurboXS RP // CP-e 3" Single Cat-back // Bilstein Shocks & H&R Springs // DSS Axle // TSW Interlagos 19x8 +35 // 235/35 Rubber // Defi Red Racer // Block8head Defrost Pod // DDM 3k Fogs & 6k Lowbeams // Custom iPod Integration Hackjob // |
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__________________ ************************ Beginners guide to turbos<- New to this? Give it a look! -And for the rest of you, if it comes from Autozone and doesnt replace something that broke off your car or make your cabin smell like Coco Butter, its fucking rice. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So i am going to do this. I was against it at first. I thought it was too much trouble just to remove some rotating mass. Now learning that it very may well keep me from blowing my motor.... I'm in !! I have a few questions though. First, as far as removing the gear, what exactly is being cut to remove it ? Also DEMI .... If i am looking at this correctly, you didnt remove the gear. Is that correct ? That thing looks way too close to the rod for my liking. I will for sure be removing both pieces. Shit a $20 mod that can save my motor for a few hours of work .... Sounds good to me. I'll pass on the baffle personally. Call me cheap but i dont see it needed. |
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![]() | | #24 | ![]() |
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__________________ a built motor is not a built motor without being sleeved | |
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![]() | | #25 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm still confused to how the gear is actually held to the crankshaft. I'm getting ready to switch out my f2 baffel with the ptp windage tray, and I'm planning on pulling the gear while I'm at it. So you just cut the gear at the cogs? turni it and repeat? I just don't see how it would be held in place. It can't just be magically floating around the crankshaft with no spokes or anything. |
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![]() | | #26 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score its held on JUST like a flywheels ring gear, theres no tac welds or anything, when they are installed at the factory they are heated to xxx probably 310 degrees, and it slides right on then instantly cools and thus tightening.
__________________ a built motor is not a built motor without being sleeved |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to fbpem1 For This Useful Post: | Fobio (03-09-2009) |
![]() | | #27 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ok sounds easy enough. And in the last hour i have already placed my order. I guess you can call me a liar... I said i wouldnt buy a baffle, but i said WTF. I bought the windage tray/baffle and BSD plug from ptp. I hope it arrives quickly. The rest of my car is nearing completion. It would be great to get this done before the car comes out of hybernation !! |
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![]() | | #28 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Naw I left it in there. Im gonna be swapping in a the PTP windage tray at some point and ill cut that off. What did everyone use to do theirs?
__________________ ************************ Beginners guide to turbos<- New to this? Give it a look! -And for the rest of you, if it comes from Autozone and doesnt replace something that broke off your car or make your cabin smell like Coco Butter, its fucking rice. |
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![]() | | #29 | ![]() |
| Speeeeeed ![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Corpus Christi, Tx
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I left mine on for the time being.
__________________ 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 P&P, flow benched, head with welded EGR and +1mm inconel exhaust valves (260/200cfm @ .500"), Web Cams, Custom crankcase breather with integrated air/oil seperator, Custom 3/4" ID pan vac system, Blow through maf, Port matched IM, CNC AN-12 ORB block oil adapter, CP-e 88mm Stage 2 pistons, Pauter 22.5mm rods, ARP main, head, and crank studs, CP-e injector seals, Injector stud kit, Cometec 88mm 5 layer HG, Deatschworks flow tested matched injectors, DCR VVT, PTP 2250psi RV, Corksport front sway, Whiteline rear sway, AWR front/rear sway links, TT FMM, AWR 70d DMM, JBR 80D PMM, SU RMM, TT FRDM, CP-e RRDM, Autotech CDFP, DW65c ITFP, Custom L/A IC with a dual pass 20x25x1.5 heat exchanger, Dual Cobra I/C pumps, 2.5" ID 700hp I/A intercooler, Custom DP, Corksport catback, Corksport exhaust hangers, chrome plated genpu valve cover, chrome plated timing cover, Spin on oil filter, Fluidyne dual pass AN-12 oil cooler, Hayden oil cooler fan controller, Dual 4.7" SPAL oil cooler fans, Canton Racing 22-480 oil tstat, Custom BMRS AN-12 oil lines, SPC ball joints, 55w/35w headlights and independently switched fogs on custom waterproof harnesses, PIAA Super Plasma driving and interior lights, rear diff cutout switch, 3M clear front cover, Volk 17x7.5 wheels, Custom tcase bearing cap upgrade, GS EBC 3 port, Redline SS hood lift, Versatune, Defi gauges, Innovate MTX-L WB gauge, triple center gauge pod, Block8head dual vent pod, Redline shift boot & ebrake cover & arm rest cover, Mazdaspeed CF ebrake handle, SBC Full Face Feramic Clutch Disc, Dashawk, ACL rod bearings, King main bearings, Cosworth BSD, Custom windage tray, Holset HX35w, Creative Performance T3 EWG manifold, HKS VTA BOV, A1 H11 head studs, Hylomar HG sealant, SSP EGR delete plate, JBR EGR IM plug, JGS 40mm Race EWG |
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![]() | | #30 | ![]() |
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Time being... being the key word. | ||
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![]() | | #31 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks man. I look forward to the install. Dremel with 2" reinforced metal cutting disks FTW !! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score the dremel takes fucking forever, i used a 3'' cutoff wheel on my die grinder air tool and then...used the dremel for the last little bit.
__________________ a built motor is not a built motor without being sleeved |
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![]() | | #33 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Somehow i have every other air tool on the planet, but not a grinder. I figures the dremel will take longer, but oh well. Also i got the big 2" disks. Not the little 15/16" or 1 1/4" in things. That should help a little.... I hope. Otherwise my patience will be tested ! |
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![]() | | #34 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score honestly i get most of my die grinders from harbor frieght they are like 15 bucks apice i have 5 of them each with a different attachemtn on them so i don't have to go back and switch them back in forth i just grab the other tool
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| Not Ranked : 0 score great thread
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks for keeping it alive guys, I agree great thread. |
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![]() | | #37 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i am somewhat afraid of cutting the gear. i guess a shop vac would allay some of my worries |
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![]() | | #38 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score As long as you are careful it will be fine. Just be sure to position your cutting tool so that the sparks and shavings are flying downward, not up in the cylinders. Then lots of brake clean ! |
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![]() | | #39 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I thought about removing the ring gear for awhile when i was underneath the car and said the hell with it, it's staying on for now. All the tiny shavings made me think twice. |
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![]() | | #40 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Not removing it is gonna make that gear sling oil all over the place. That could cause excess vapor and oil foaming. Even with a baffle i am pulling it off. It sits too close to that rod IMO anyways ! |
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